Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : Dame Jouanne : Circuit black ED+ (n°7)

Dame Jouanne : black ED+ (n°7)

Area description
In the village of Larchant, take a road to the North for 2km (follow the arrows "Dame Jouanne"), turn right and park at the inn of Le Chalet Jobert. The boulders can be found a little further, on the left side of the path.

GPS parking lot

N 48.302842, E 2.600341

GPS start of the circuit

N 48.304932, E 2.601021

Circuit description
This circuit, which gathers many hard problems of the area, is in fact numbered with the 26 letters of the alphabet (plus 4 variants).

1	Le Chewin Gun 6c	traverse fltr
	n°A of the black circuit, facing the backside of yellow n°8, just after mauve n°76 (end of the circuit), 30m to the left and underneath Balladium. Start to the left of a characteristic fault with slopers, pass an angle, continue on the ledge and then with jugs and exit at the end of the face.
2	Moselle 6b+	wall / high
	n°B of the black circuit, behind red n°8 (committing).
3	Vertibloc 6b+	wall / high
	n°C of the black circuit, behind red n°8, to the left of Moselle.
4	Balladium 7a	traverse frtl / bidoigt / wall	Bernard Théret
	black n°D, behind red n°8 (red circuit TD n°5), on the boulder of Moselle, 20m to the East of La Dalle du Feu. Start on a small boulder, traverse with bidoigts (small black points for the feet) and exit in Balladium direct (red and white arrow), to the left of Vertibloc. See also: Balladium direct 6a
5	L'Épine Noir 6b+	wall / slab
	n°E of the black circuit, just left of red n°20, to the opposite of mauve n°4.
6	Cachalot 7a (7a+)	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
	black n°F. Sitstart to the opposite of red n°2 (red circuit TD n°5) with an undercling, traverse to the left, pass the angle, continue in the other face and exit in Le Cachalot direct (red and white n°9 of an abandoned TD+/ED- circuit). See also: Le Cachalot direct 6a
7	Scolopendre 7b+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
	black n°G, on the boulder with Les Trois Trous (red n°1 of the circuit TD n°5). Update (June 2007) : the original version is no more possible since the right part of La Dalle du Feu (mauve n°68) fell down, but it is still possible to exit by red n°1. See also: Totem 8a
8	L'Heure H 6c (6c+)	wall / pockets / expo	Bernard Théret
	black n°H, to the right of red n°25, on the boulder of La Dalle du Feu. Direct start, take a crimp in the face and exit with jugs.
9	Sacrée Soirée 7a+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
	n°I of the black circuit, on the boulder to the left of red n°39 (red circuit n°5), near white n°1. Start to the right of the angle, traverse to the right, pass the round angle and continue in a second face till the end on the corridor. See also: Encore une Journée de Foutue 7c+
10	Le Kilo de Betteraves 7b	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
	black n°J, under the plateau, next to a forbidden zone. Start in Pour Quelques Betteraves! (red n°41 of the red circuit TD n°5) and continue to traverse to the left on a second boulder after the crack.
11	Imitation Promenade 7a	traverse frtl / crack / expo	Bernard Théret
	black n°K, on the ledge under the plateau (boulder of former blue n°23, to the left of a forbidden sector). Downclimb at an angle, traverse to the left after a small dihedral and exit via an overhanging crack.
12	Monumendal 7a+	crimps / wall	Bernard Théret
	black n°L, to the right of red n°41 (circuit TD- n°3).
13	La Boule 7b+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
	black n°M, on the boulder to the left of white n°12. Start completely right, traverse to the left and exit.
14	L'Étoile 7b	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
	black n°N, to the left of red n°51 (circuit TD- n°3).
15	Nuages 7b+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
	black n°O. Start with slopers completely right of the boulder, near the start of L'Étoile, traverse to the left and exit with the round hold to the left of blue n°1.
16	Le Plafond 7b+	roof / sitstart	Bernard Théret
	black n°P. Sitstart in the cave and exit in red n°33 (circuit TD- n°3). See also: L'Abri à Bras 5-, L'Abri à Bras assis 6a
17	Mur-Mur 7a	slab / crimps	Bernard Théret
	to the right of red n°3 (red circuit TD- n°3), on the boulder of white n°16, 30m from the path.
18	Rondeurs Indigestes 7a (7a+)	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
	black n°R, in between red n°30 (circuit TD- n°3) and blue n°37. Start with a vertical hold left hand and an undercling/pocket right hand and exit on slopers.
19	Machine à Jambon 7b	traverse fltr / wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
	black n°S; traverse to the right and exit in Predator (white n°21).
20	Anti-G 7a (7a+)	wall	Bernard Théret
	black n°T, 1m to the right of white n°24.
21	Choux Bloc 7a	crack / traverse fltr / sitstart	Bernard Théret
	black n°U, on the other side of mauve n°35, 10m before the big boulder of La Caroline. Sitstart on the left, traverse to the right with good holds and exit via the crack.
22	Bonne Année, Bonne Santé 7b+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
	black n°V, to the right of white n°26, underneath the boulder of La Caroline. Start completely right, traverse to the left and exit after the angle via a crack. NB : needs to be rebrushed (December 2007). See also: L'Année des Méduses 8a+
23	La Grenouillère 7a	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
	black n°W, on a characteristic boulder along the path, at the East of the area, just before the stairs.
24	Arrêt sur Image 6c	wall
	black n°X. Underneath the end of the white circuit, on the boulder of La Grenouillère.
25	Stretchin 7a+ (7b)	roof / traverse	Bernard Théret
	black n°Y, on the last boulder of the white circuit, completely to the East, 20m to the left of the stairs, under the top of the slope. Sitstart completely right, climb the overhang, traverse to the left as for white n°31, continue on slopers and exit by a mantle completely left (almost erased black arrow), 2m after the natural way-out of white n°31. NB : the video doesn't show the last moves of the original problem. See also: La Crampe à Rachid 6b
26	Dévertige 7b	overhang / traverse fltr / sitstart	Bernard Théret
	black n°Z, on the plateau, a few meters to the left after the stairs above Hibernatus. Sitstart in the overhang with bidoigts, dyno to the ledge, traverse the whole boulder and exit completely right at a black arrow (big jug). See also: Dévertige direct 7a, Dévertige gauche 7a+