Bleau.info : Long Boyau : Topo

Bleau.info : Long Boyau : Topo

1	Le Garde Barrière 7b+	traverse fltr / slopers / pockets	Tony Fouchereau
on the first boulder to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart completely right, downclimb to a good crack, low traverse with the pedestal and exit at the end of the face.
2	Le Trou de Balle 7a	slightly overhanging / wall / sitstart	Alex Bremmer / Matt Moreau
on the second boulder to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart without crash-pad, climb the arete with a small pocket and exit on slopers on the left wall.
3	Le Trou de Balle de droite 7c+ (7c)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault / Tony Fouchereau
on the second boulder to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart without crash-pad as for Le Trou de Balle, climb the arete, traverse for 1m50 to the right on slopers and exit to the left of the tree.
3b	Le Retour du Trou de Balle 7a+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the second boulder to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart to the left of the tree just under the exit of Le Trou de Balle droite, traverse to the left and exit on the left wall as for Le Trou de Balle.
4	Circulez, y'a Rien à Boire 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Patrick Lefaucheur / Tony Fouchereau
left problem on the third boulder to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart on the left of the arete, climb the slighty overhanging wall and exit by a mantle above without using the left part of the boulder (three possibilities to mantle up).
5	Circulez, y'a le Monde à Voir 7b+ (7b)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
right problem on the third boulder to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m from Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart (without crash-pad) at the right angle, climb this one and exit above.
6	La Traversée des Muscles Faibles 7a (6c+)	traverse fltr / slopers / arete	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of "Muscles Faibles", to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m to the South of Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart on the right with a small boulder on the back, traverse on slopers, downclimb to the start of Méthodes Pilates, continue to the right and exit in the right facet as for Muscles Faibles.
7	Méthodes Pilates 7b+ (7a+)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thomas Collignon / Tony Fouchereau
voie centrale sur le bloc des "Muscles Faibles", à droite de la Route du Mont Fessas, environ 150m au Sud du Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Partir assis au milieu du bloc avec un gros rebord détaché, remonter le dévers et sortir tout droit.
8	Muscles Faibles 6a (6a+)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
right problem on the boulder of "Muscles Faibles", to the right of La Route du Mont Fessas, 150m to the South of Le Carrefour de L'Émerillon. Sitstart without the left pedestal, climb the arete and exit by the slab of the right facet.
9	Tip Top 7c+ (7c)	slab	Philippe Le Denmat
n°13 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau, to the right of the arete of Solstice. The boulder stands near the carrefour de L'Émerillon : from the crossing follow La Route du Mont Fessas for about 100 m, then uphill to the sentier blue.
10	Solstice 7b	slab / arete	Philippe Le Denmat
n°12 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau, underneath blue path n°8, shortly after the crossing with La Route du Mont Fessas. Begin in the slab with round arete left hand.
11	La Vie Est un Jeu 7a+	slightly overhanging / underclings / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder just under the crest, to the left and above Ric et Rac. Sitstart with a vertical hold left hand and an oblique hold right hand, climb the overhang without the pedestal, take good underclings and exit to the right above a boulder. NB : 6c with the pedestal.
12	Ric et Rac 6c+ (7a)	wall	Philippe Le Denmat
n°24 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau, above the blue path, just after the boulder marked "H". NB : the problem looks like "Tonsure" at Bas Cuvier. (GPS: N48.398380 E2.664770)
12b	Ric et Rac droite 7a+ (7b)	wall / slopers / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
above the blue path, just after the boulder marked "H". Start right with a big hold right hand, take a sloper left hand, and exit in Ric et Rac. (GPS: N48.398380 E2.664770)
13	- 5-	wall	Philippe Le Denmat
n°25 (see topo), to the right of Ric et Rac. (GPS: N48.398380 E2.664770)
15	El Desdichado 7a+	arete / expo	Loïc Le Denmat
n°22 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau. Arete to the left of Peau d'Âne. Lichened (June 2009). (GPS: N48.398620 E2.665170)
16	Peau d'Âne 7b	prow / slab	Emmanuel Ratouis
n°21 of thetopo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau, underneath the blue path, just after boulder marked "H". Lichened (June 2009). (GPS: N48.398620 E2.665170)
17	Le Monde du Silence 6c (7a)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on the first boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart at the bottom of the prow and exit by a mantle on the slab above.
18	- 5	wall / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on the right face of the first boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart with a ledge right hand and exit directly.
20	Le Séquençage droite 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Cyril Roques / Alexis Richard
on the second boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with two crimps on the right of the boulder, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle above.
21	Le Séquençage 7b+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the second boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with two crimps on the right of the boulder, climb the overhang, traverse to the left on the ledge and exit at the top of the boulder.
21b	Le Séquençage du Génome Humain 7b+	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the second boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with two crimps on the right of the boulder, climb the overhang, traverse to the left on the ledge, downclimb for 2m and exit completely left.
22	Le Génome Humain 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Cyril Roques / Alexis Richard
on the second boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart on the left of the boulder with good holds, traverse to the right and exit by a mantle at the top of the boulder.
22b	Le Séquençage du Génome Humain retour 7c	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the second boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart on the left of the boulder with good holds, traverse to the right, downclimb for 2m and exit by a mantle completely right.
23	Le Génome Humain gauche 6b (6b+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Alexis Richard / Cyril Roques
on the second boulder to the West of Peau d'Âne, underneath the blue path. Sitstart on the left of the boulder with good holds and exit by a mantle above.
24	Double A 7a (6c+)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the slope, underneath the blue path, between Peau d'Âne and Le Mérou. Sitstart on the right with slopers, climb the overhanging arete and exit at the top.
25	La Bourse ou la Vie 6b (6c)	arete / slightly overhanging	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
in the slope, underneath the blue path, between Peau d'Âne and Le Mérou. Standing start on the right, traverse slightly to the left and exit above with good holds.
26	Le Jeu de la Bourse 6b (6c)	wall / dyno	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
in the slope, underneath the blue path, between Peau d'Âne and Le Mérou. Standing start just left of the right arete with a good undercling, dyno with two hands towards a good hold and exit above. NB : 5c with the right arete.
28	Mauvaise Pioche 6a	-	Philippe Le Denmat
n°19 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau.
29	Pas de Vagues 6c	-	Philippe Le Denmat
n°20 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau.
31	La Traversée du Krack Boursier 7a+	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / arete	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder underneath Le Mérou. Sitstart to the right with the two hands on a good hold, traverse to the left with slopers and exit by the left arete as for Krack Boursier.
32	AA+ 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Cyril Roques
on a boulder underneath Le Mérou. Sistart to the right of the arete, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle above.
33	Krack Boursier 7b+ (7b)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder underneath Le Mérou. Sitstart to the left, take the arete, climb that one without the pedestal and exit by a mantle at the top of the boulder.
34	Triple A 7a (6c+)	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a quarry boulder underneath Le Mérou. Sitstart, climb the ledge on slopers and exit just left of the angle.
35	Inextricable 7a+ (7b)	prow / mantle / expo	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder underneath the last bend of the blue path when going up towards Le Mérou. Sitstart without crash-apd at the right arete, climb the overhanging without touching the little boulder and exit by a mantle above.
36	Le Mérou 7a+	arete	Philippe Le Denmat
n°26 of the topo du Mont Aigu - Long Boyau, on the boulder marked "G" just below blue path n°8. (GPS: N48.398820 E2.663870)
38	Twist and Shout 7a+	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Thomas Collignon / Matt Moreau
on the boulder just above Transformers, at the fork of the blue circuit, going up the slope from the start of the blue circuit. Sitstart in the middle with a good undercling and exit above.
39	- 5+ (6a)	wall / crack / mantle	Thomas Collignon / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder just above Transformers, at the fork of the blue circuit, going up the slope from the start of the blue circuit. Standing start on the right and exit by a mantle above.
40	Transformers 7b	roof / prow / sitstart	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
on the boulder just above the fork of the blue circuit, going up the slope from the start of the blue circuit. Sitstart without crash-pad with the round arete left hand, pass under the roof, climb the overhang without touching the small boulder and exit above.
41	Le Petit Transformers 6b	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
on the boulder just above the fork of the blue circuit, going up the slope from the start of the blue circuit. Sitstart to the right of Transformers, climb the overhang and exit directly, or on the left as for the exit of Transformers.
42	ÉcoOcéan 6c+ (7a)	arete / slightly overhanging / expo	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder to the right of La Route de Froidour, before the crossing with the blue path, when going up the slope from the start of the blue circuit. Hanging start from the ledge without the small boulders or the pedestal and exit directly by the arete above.
43	ÉcoOcéan droite 6c (6c+)	slightly overhanging / pockets / crack	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder to the right of La Route de Froidour, before the crossing with the blue path, when going up the slope from the start of the blue circuit. Hanging start from the ledge without the small boulders or the pedestal, traverse to the right for 1m50 and exit above.
44	Grosse Loche 7a+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder above the blue path, after the crossing with La Route de Froidour. Low sitstart on the ledge, climb the overhang and exit above.
45	Le Mimétisme 7a	wall / arete / mantle	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on a boulder to the right of La Route de Froidour, after the crossing with the blue path. Standing start in the pit with an undercling right hand and a sloper left hand and exit directly. NB : a sitstart had been done but the initial grade of 7a+/7b has to be revised after a hold broke off.
46	Art Être 6c	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder to the right of La Route de Froidour, after the crossing with the blue path. Sitstart to the right, climb the overhanging arete and exit at the top.