Bleau.info : Long Boyau : Topo

Bleau.info : Long Boyau : Topo

1	Rampe de Lancement 6b+	traverse frtl / slopers	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on an old quarry boulder 20m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with La Route de la Chouette. Start on the right, traverse on a ledge of slopers and exit on the left arete as for Contarboure.
2	Contarboure 5+	arete / slopers	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on an old quarry boulder 20m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with La Route de la Chouette. Start at the left arete and exit above as for Rampe de Lancement.
4	Constante Cosmologique 7a+	wall / crack / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
left problem on a boulder above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with la Route de la Chouette. Sitstart at an evident crack and exit statically above. NB : a dynamic method is also possible (6c/6c+).
6	L'Expansion de l'Univers 7a+	wall / crimps / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder underneath Cellulose, above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with la Route de la Chouette. Standing start with a vertical ledge right hand, dyno to a crimp left hand and exit above.
7	Belle Dalle 5+	slab / crimps	Pepito
crimpsy wall on the West face of the boulder of Cellulose, above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with la Route de la Chouette.
8	Cellulose direct 7a+	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the North face of a boulder above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, 10m before the crossing with la Route de la Chouette. Sitstart with a good pocket right hand as for Cellulose and exit directly by a mantle without using the left arete.
8	Zip et Zap 6a+	wall	Blokeur / Pepito
right problem on the boulder to the left of Le Déversoir, underneath the blue path, at the character "K", in the Eastern part of the sector. Start with a gully right hand, climb the wall and exit above.
11	Épaulement 6c	arete / slopers / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Préambule, in the slope above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, to the right of the thalweg when going up from La Route de la Chouette. Sitstart on the right arete and exit by a mantle above.
12	Préambule 7a	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Pepito
on an isolated boulder in the slope above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, to the right of the thalweg when going up from La Route de la Chouette. Sitstart on the left in the overhang (morpho), traverse on the ledge on slopers and exit at the right arete as for Épaulement.
14	- 5+	wall / crimps	-
on the boulder just left of the character "D", in the North face, slightly underneath the blue path. Start in a crimpsy wall and exit by a slab.
16	Visite Inattendue 7a	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Pepito
on an isolated boulder along the blue path, 20m before the one marked "D". Sitstart under the overhang with an undercling right hand, traverse to the right on fragile slopers and exit by a mantle before the right angle.
18	L'Œuf Cosmique 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / slopers	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Standing start in a pit and exit directly above. Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the right of that one.
19	L'Œuf Cosmique droite 7b+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / slopers / mantle	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Standing start in a pit as for L'Œuf Cosmique, traverse to the right on slopers and exit by a mantle above the pedestal. Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the right of that one.
20	Le Saint-Bernard 6c (6c+)	slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Jérôme Ceccaldi
on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Sitstart with the hands on both sides of the overhang, climb the arete and exit on the top of that one.Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is the first one on the left of the path.
21	L'Énergie Noire 7b+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
left problem on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Sitstart (on a crash-pad for small climbers) to the left of a good crack, dyno to the top and exit by a mantle on slopers. Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the left of that one.
22	Les Rides du Temps gauche 6a (6b)	arete / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Sitstart (on a crash-pad for small climbers) at a good crack, climb that one and exit by a mantle on the left. Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the left of that one.
23	Les Rides du Temps direct 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Sitstart (on a crash-pad for small climbers) at a good crack, climb that one, go slightly right in the overhang and exit by a mantle above (a 6c/6c+ exit is also possible via the right arete). Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the left of that one.
24	Les Rides du Temps 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder in the slope 50m above La Route des Gorges de Franchard before the crossing with La Route Henriquez. Sitstart (on a crash-pad for small climbers) at a good crack, dyno to the right arete and exit by a mantle in the wall on the right. Access : From La Route des Gorges de Franchard, take a path 20m before La Route Henriquez; the boulder is on the left of that one.
27	Pin Pon 6c+	wall / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
n°30 (see topo). Along the Route des Gorges de Franchard, on the right after the crossing with La Route Henriquez. In the center of the boulder near the tree. Possible access from Gorges du Houx (500m beyond Les Thanatonautes).
28	La Planche des Pompiers direct 7a+	arete / slightly overhanging / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
right arete on the boulder of Pin Pon, above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in the sector "Cosmos". Standing start (without crash-pad nor jumping) with a pinch left hand and a round undercling right hand and exit directly without using the pedestal.
29	La Planche des Pompiers 7b	arete / slightly overhanging / mantle	Tony Fouchereau
right arete on the boulder of Pin Pon, above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in the sector "Cosmos". Standing start (without crash-pad nor jumping) with a pinch left hand and a round undercling right hand, change hands after the first move, traverse to the right on slopers in the overhang, downclimb up to the "nose" of the boulder and exit by a mantle above.
30	Décalé 4	-	Guillaume Aliadiere
on the backside of the boulder of Pin Pon, above La Route des Gorges de Franchard, in the sector "Cosmos". Standing start to the right of La Planche des Pompiers with a pinch right hand and exit above.
32	La Tête d'Alien 6c	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder behind Pin Pon, on the other side of the crest, to the left of La Route Henriquez. Sitstart with the two hands on both sides of the prow, climb the overhang to the right via a crack and exit at its top without touching the back boulder.
33	Trou de Ver 7b+ (7c)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
in the North face, on the other side of the crest, to the left of La Route Henriquez when coming up from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart on the right of the boulder and exit by a mantle above.
34	Voyage dans un Trou de Ver 7b+	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the North face, on the other side of the crest, to the left of La Route Henriquez when coming up from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart without crash-pad on the left with slopers, traverse on the ledge and exit by a mantle as for Trou de Ver.
36	Le Feu de la Création 7a+	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on the North face of a boulder 15m to the left of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart in the pit, climb the overhanging crack and exit directly.
37	Cosmos 7a+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
right problem on the East face of a boulder 15m to the left of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart to the right with two good holds, climb the overhang on the left and exit by a mantle with a bidoigt left hand.
38	Astrophysiciens 6c (6c+)	slightly overhanging	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
left problem on the East face of a boulder 15m to the left of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Hanging start with the two hands on a vertical hold and exit above.
40	Respect pour un Centenaire 7a+	slopers / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
left problem on the North face of a boulder to the left of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart just right of a tree a with a blue dot, traverse to the right on slopers and exit by a mantle before the crack of Un Jour Peut-Être.
41	Un Jour Peut-Être 6a (6a+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
right problem on the North face of a boulder to the left of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart with oblique holds in a crack and exit by a mantle slightly right.
42	Et Pourquoi Pas sans l'Arête? 7b+ (7a+)	wall / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
eliminate on the West face of a boulder to the left of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Start on the right of the face, put the right foot on a round hold, dyno to a ledge and dyno again to the top.
43	Et Pourquoi Pas? 4+ (5)	arete	-
evident arete right hand on the West face of a boulder to the left of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard.
45	Brouillard Quantique 7a+ (7b)	traverse frtl / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder 15m to the right of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Standing start at the right arete, traverse to the left, pass under the tunnel and exit on the left of the boulder.
46	Supernova 7c (7b)	wall / dyno / sitstart	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
on the North face face of the boulder of Supersymétrie, to the right of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart (on a crash-pad for small climbers) with a good vertical hold right hand and a small hold left hand, climb the wall and dyno to the top.
47	La Force de la Gravitation 7a (7a+)	wall	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the East face of the boulder of Supersymétrie, to the right of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Standing start without jumping and climb the wall directly.
47	La Force de la Gravitation assis 7b+ (7b)	wall / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the East face of the boulder of Supersymétrie, to the right of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart without crash-pad at the crack and climb the wall directly as for La Force de la Gravitation.
48	Supersymétrie 7a+	prow / sitstart	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
small prow on a boulder 15m to the right of La Route Henriquez, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart at the end of the tunnel without crashpad and exit via the prow.
49	Planck 6b	wall / arete	Tony Fouchereau
left problem on the West face of a boulder between La Route Henriquez and La Route Débucher. Standing start (without crash-pad) with the left hand on the arete and exit above.
50	WMAP 5+ (6a)	wall / arete / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
right problem on the West face of a boulder between La Route Henriquez and La Route Débucher. Sitstar on the right, climb the arete and exit above.
51	L'Énergie Sombre 7b	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
between La Route Henriquez and La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart on the right with two vertical holds, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle on slopers on the left.
53	Lévogyre 6c	wall / slopers / slab	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
left problem on a boulder to the left of La Route Débucher when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Standing start on the left with a sloper left hand and a pinch right hand and exit by the wall-slab above.
54	Dextrogyre 5+	wall / dyno / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
right problem on a boulder to the left of La Route Débucher when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Jump start without crash-pad and exit above.
55	COBE 7b+ (7c+)	pillar / slopers / dyno	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder to the opposite of the exit of Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort, to the left of La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Standing start, dyno right hand to a pinch and exit at the top of the boulder.
56	Écho Cosmique 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder to the opposite of Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort, to the left of La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart on the right of the boulder with the two hands in a big oblique crack, climb the overhang with the arete and exit above.
57	La Traversée de l'Écho Cosmique 7b (7b+)	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Manuel Marquès / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder to the opposite of Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort, to the left of La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart on the left, traverse on the ledge and exit at the very and as for Écho Cosmique.
58	La Traversée de l'Écho Cosmique sortie directe 6c+	traverse fltr / mantle / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder to the opposite of Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort, to the left of La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart on the on the left and traverse on the ledge for 1m as for Écho Cosmique, but exit directly by a mantle on a crimp.
60	Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort 7c	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder to the left of La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart completely right, traverse on slopers and exit via the left arete.
60b	Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort retour 7b (7b+)	traverse fltr / slopers	Manuel Marquès
back traverse of Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort, to the left of La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Standing start at the left arete, traverse on slopers and exit at the highest point of the boulder just before the sotstart of Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort.
61	Igor 6b+ (6c)	prow / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
minor problem of the sector Cosmos on the backside of the boulder of Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort, to the left of La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart under the prow with an undercling left hand anda sloper right hand and exit by the prow above.
62	Grishka 2+ (4)	slab / crimps	Tony Fouchereau
minor problem of the sector Cosmos on the backside of the boulder of Ce Qui ne te Tue Pas te Rend Plus Fort, to the left of La Route Débucher, when going up the slope from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Standing start to the right of the arete with a crimp right hand and exit by the slab.
64	Crâne Fécond 6c+ (7a)	arete / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
right problem on an isolated boulder 60m to the right of La Route de la Chouette, 100m from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart without crash-pad on the right of the arete and exit above.
65	Œil de Serpent 6a	wall	Tony Fouchereau
to the right of Bras Vengeur, on an isolated boulder 60m to the right of La Route de la Chouette, 100m from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Standing start just left of a small boulder with the arete right hand and exit above.
65	Œil de Serpent assis 6c (6c+)	wall / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
to the right of Bras Vengeur, on an isolated boulder 60m to the right of La Route de la Chouette, 100m from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart just left of a small boulder with the arete right hand and exit above.
66	Bras Vengeur 7b (7b+)	wall / slab / slopers	Loïc Le Denmat
central problem on an isolated boulder 60m to the right of La Route de la Chouette, 100m from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Climb the wall-slab to the right of the arete of Briseur d'Obstacles directly on slopers.
67	Briseur d'Obstacles 6c (6c+)	arete / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
left problem on an isolated boulder 60m to the right of La Route de la Chouette, 100m from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Standing start withh the left arete right hand and exit above on slopers.
67	Briseur d'Obstacles assis 7b	arete / slopers / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
left problem on an isolated boulder 60m to the right of La Route de la Chouette, 100m from La Route des Gorges de Franchard. Sitstart withh the left arete right hand and exit above on slopers.