Bleau.info : Restant du Long Rocher Ouest : Topo

thanks to David Evrard

At the Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau, take the D58 in direction of Bourron-Marlotte and continue by turning right 2km500 after (Carrefour de Diane) for 3km800 till the entrance of Bourron-Marlotte. Take La Route de la Grande Vallée on the right and then La Route de la Plaine Verte, and park the car at its end. The problems of the western part of the area are in three different sectors on both sides of La Route de la Mort.
For the other sectors of this wide area, see the principal sector and the Grotte Béatrix sector.

*	La Teigne 6c	sitstart	-
isolated problem to the right of La Route de la Mort, under the blue path.
*	- 6b+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Michel Grillère
on the left of a boulder 10m above the blue path and 50m to the left of La Route du Languedoc
*	L'Arête Scherrer 7b	arete / dyno / slopers	Frank Scherrer
right problem on a boulder 10m above the blue path and 50m to the left of La Route du Languedoc, see the overview map; start to the right of Lancé comme un Frelon and exit via the round arete (GPS: N48.355580 E2.727020)
*	L'Arête Scherrer assis 7b+	arete / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard
right problem on a boulder 10m above the blue path and 50m to the left of La Route du Languedoc, see the overview map; sitstart to the right of Lancé comme un Frelon and exit via L'Arête Scherrer on slopers (GPS: N48.355580 E2.727020)
*	Lancé comme un Frelon 7a (7a+)	wall / dyno	Philippe Dumez
on a boulder 10m above the blue path and 50m to the left of La Route du Languedoc, see the overview map. Start in the crack as for Sisbé, but dyno to the right (morpho).
*	Sisbé 6b+	wall / crack	Michel Grillère
central crack on a boulder 10m above the blue path and 50m to the left of La Route du Languedoc
Sector Chacun sa Route
1	À Peu Pieds 6c	wall	David Evrard
direct exit is 6a.
1'	À Peu Pieds (sortie directe) 6a	wall	-
direct exit of À Peu Pieds.
2	Neness 6a	wall	Michel Grillère
3	Santriche droite 6a+	wall	Michel Grillère
4	La Porte 6b+	wall	Michel Grillère
4'	La Porte droite 6b	traverse fltr / wall	Michel Grillère
4''	La Totale 6c	traverse fltr / wall	Michel Grillère
complete traverse from Neness to La Porte (sortie de droite)
5	P'tite Trav 6b	sitstart / traverse frtl / wall	Michel Grillère
6	Compressor 6b+	arete / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère
partir assis dans une petite fosse, remonter l'arête ronde sur des plats et terminer en réta
Sector Orfèvre
1	L'Orfèvre 6c	wall / dyno	Michel Grillère
jump start
2	Le Baquet Trompeur 6a+	wall	Michel Grillère
3	La Diagonale 6c	wall	Michel Grillère
mur en traversée ascendante
4	Ric 6a+	wall	Michel Grillère
to the right of the crack
5	Rac 6a	wall / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart to the left of the crack and exit directly
5'	Final Jet 6c	wall / sitstart / dyno	David Evrard
sitstart to the left of the crack and exit to the left
6	Petite Marie 6b	traverse fltr	-
7	Pinchy Lady 6c	slightly overhanging / pinches / sitstart	Jyrki Kauko
70m to the East of A HREF="http://bleau.info/longrochergrandesvallees/11837.html">Magic Stick, on the same side of the crest. Sitstart at the lowest point on the right under the bulge with a big undercling right hand, go up with slopers and pinches and exit in Stratagème, in the middle of the face.
7	Stratagème 5+	wall / sitstart	David Evrard
70m to the East of A HREF="http://bleau.info/longrochergrandesvallees/11837.html">Magic Stick, on the same side of the crest. Sitstart on the left of the overhang and exit with slopers and pinches as for Pinchy Lady.
8	Pince Oreille 6a	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	David Evrard
slightly overhanging arete in direction of the sector Dormeur
Sector Dormeur
1	Bas Fond 6b	overhang / sitstart	-
2	Haut Fond 5+	traverse frtl / sitstart	-
3	Le Dormeur 6b	traverse frtl	Michel Grillère
4	Randonnain 6a+	slab / mantle	Christian Merimeche
5	Vague à Bond 6c	wall / dyno / slopers	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
6	Planète Épiée 7a	slopers / dyno / mantle	David Evrard
dyno on slopers and exit via a mantle
7	Doux Rivages 6a	slab	David Evrard
8	Magic Stick 7a+	arete / slopers	David Evrard
climb the right arete using slopers.
8'	Magic Stick assis 7b+	arete / slopers / sitstart	Teddy Deschamps
sitstart of Magic Stick
9	Petite Crampe 6b	arete / sitstart	David Evrard
10	Demain 5	-	David Evrard
11	La Traversée de la Microcupule 6b	traverse frtl / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart, traverse to the left and exit in La Microcupule.
12	La Microcupule 6a	wall	David Evrard
		Outside the topo
Serein 7a		arete	Jyrki Kauko
standing start of an arete on an isolated boulder at the North of the sector, near the blue path. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Long Rocher on the D58, 500m before Bourron-Marlotte if coming from Fontainebleau, follow La Route du Long Rocher to the East for 200m environ, and take a small valley to the right at the end of Le Rocher des Étroitures. The boulder is situated about 50m from the path.
Serein assis 7a+		arete / sitstart	Jyrki Kauko
sitstart of an arete on an isolated boulder at the North of the sector, near the blue path. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Long Rocher on the D58, 500m before Bourron-Marlotte if coming from Fontainebleau, follow La Route du Long Rocher to the East for 200m environ, and take a small valley to the right at the end of Le Rocher des Étroitures. The boulder is situated about 50m from the path.
Le Doigt de Dieu 5		arete	-
right angle on the South face of the big boulder of Gaspard, on the crest above L'Orfèvre.
Gaspard 6b		wall / bidoigt	-
right problem on the South face of a big boulder on the crest above L'Orfèvre. Star with a bidoigt and exit without the right arete.
Les Deux Bonsaïs 4+		wall / pockets	-
wall with big pockets on the South face of the big boulder of Gaspard, on the crest above L'Orfèvre.
- 4		wall / dyno	-
on the South face of the big boulder of Gaspard, on the crest above L'Orfèvre. Dyno start and exit to the left of the big pockets of Les Deux Bonsaïs
- 4-		crack	-
dülfer-type crack on the South face of the big boulder of Gaspard, on the crest above L'Orfèvre.
- 5		wall	-
on the South face of the big boulder of Gaspard, on the crest above L'Orfèvre. Start to the right of the left crack (morpho).
- 6a+		arete / sitstart	-
South-West angle on the big boulder of Gaspard, on the crest above L'Orfèvre. Sitstart with a bidoigt and a horizontal crack and climb the left side of the arete.
- 5+ (6a)		slightly overhanging / underclings / mantle	-
on the West face of the big boulder of Gaspard, on the crest above L'Orfèvre. Climb the slightly overhanging wall with an undercling and exit by a mantle at the top.
Rincewind 7a+		roof / mantle / sitstart	Damien Roguiez / David Evrard
on the boulder with the character "N", along the bue path. Low sitstart on the first sidepull to the left under the roof, climb the overhang, mantle up on the first part of the boulder without touching the other boulders left or right and finish at the top. Standing start is 5c/6a. NB : this old but confidential problem has been rediscovered recently by Theodoros Konstantakopoulos.Access : follow La Route de la Mort in the direction of La Route du Restant du Long Rocher for 150m and turn right at the blue path; the boulder is 20m further.

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