Ubik 8a+ Les Mammouths

Julien Nadiras
overhang, underclings, slopers

On the backside of the boulder of Osiris. Standing start, climb the overhang with underclings and exit on slopers.
Reference : n°7 of the topo in "Grimper" n°82 (nov, dec 04, jan 05).

  • Average Rating
  • 4.6 Stars
  • (25 total)
  • Given Grades
  • 8a: 48.3%
  • 8a+: 51.7%
  • (29 total)
Climber: Kevin Lopata
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On va donc avoir bientôt un Ubik droite - on n'arrête pas le progrès (01-04-2007 11:03)
Et puis quoi encore - ??? (01-04-2007 20:58)
Michele a fait un autre mouv sur le même bloc et c'est très bien.
Si les prochains répétiteurs trouvent effectivement cette séquence plus facile alors il sera logique que la cotation soit réajustée. Mais c'est la même ligne.
La seule conclusion possible c'est que les répétiteurs se sont laissés enfermer dans une méthode comme quoi il faut toujours se remettre en question.
Néanmoins il n'est pas sûr que cela soit réellement plus facile.
Bravo à Michele.
dubitatif - St thomas (12-01-2012 10:50)
ouep j've bien la recette
Where is this area? - Anonymous (05-03-2004 11:07)
Could anyone please inform me where this are is and how to find the boulders?

Tanks!
Ok, - Anonymous (05-03-2004 12:21)
I'll give you the info if you promise me to clean your chalk marks when you leave...
Deal accepted... - Anonymous (05-03-2004 12:36)
Here is the way : previous post on the subject.
Good luck !
Versions G et D? - DJ (30-03-2007 12:57)
Vu la méthode démontrée par M. Caminati, peut-on parler de deux versions de ce passage? La classique à gauche et l'autre avec la réglette en haut à droite. 8a+ et 8a respectivement?
crossed sequence... - Anonymous (01-04-2007 03:19)
I actually used the same holds crossing the sequence: I crossed to the pinch with the left ( not taken it as a sloper with the right ) and then jumped directly to a sloper just straight above and campused again the top with right hand, finally i used the same crimp on the left to exit. I Didn't take any crimp on the right or move in that direction. ( there is a small one but far... It would have been harder to me). I did it like that mainly because trying it alone I found it easier to control the bad fall. Perhaps it may result easier using that method, but i don't know well because I didn't try a lot in the other way. Anyway it could be somewhere around 8a or 8a+, the day I did it there was a lot of friction! Just go, try the two methods and say what you think... the bloc is just there and is magnifique.
Salut, Michele.
belle progression... - rené (11-01-2012 23:17)
ou comment passer du 7b au 8a+ direct.... bravo !
8a not 8a+ - BQ (24-04-2012 21:21)
The méthode proposed by M.Caminati (or many years ago Chris?) is easier than the original proposed by ju. So, the boulder is going logically from hard 8a+ to normal 8a. What this means for the sitstart, I don't know.
Deal - Anonymous (05-03-2004 12:29)
You just made yourself a deal. (s.spauwen@zonnet.nl)
Thanks