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Mare aux Corneilles : 7a and harder

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Other overviews 7a and harder: 14 straight-ups16 traverses
Topos: Secteur Tom & Jerry (Arnaud Ceintre), Mare aux Corneilles (Frédéric Buc & Thierry Guéguen)

- 6c (7a)wall / pinches / sitstartNicolas Blaise
 [ 1 photo ] topo nº29; central problem on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream.

Angleterre à Terre 7a (6c+)arete / sitstartFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nº15; on the boulder of Été moins Une. Low sitstart and exit by the arete (standing start is 6a).
NB : be careful with the big flake of the low sitstart! (a 6b direct sitstart is also possible anyway).


Jet Stream 7aroof / sitstartGilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 2 photos ] topo nº18; low sitstart in a small roof.

Énergie Fossile 7atraverse fltr / sitstart / areteFrédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº58; sitstart on the left and exit via the arete.

Grand Reef 7atraverse fltr / roof / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 1 photo ] topo nº2; sitstart on the left of L'Auvent des Corneilles, traverse on the ledge of the roof and exit in a flared dihedral.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. 80m after Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, shortly before the path to the main sector, take a small path to the right, leading to a hidden roof. A dry period is recommended.

See also:  [ 5 photos ]  Submersible 7b

Atlantide 7atraverse fltr / slopers / sitstartFrançois Louvel
topo nº37; on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream. Sitstart on the left as for Montée des Eaux, traverse on slopers and exit completely to the right.
See also: Atlandide raccourci 6c

Salade d'Escalope 7adynoC. Larprise
topo nº62; run&jump in the center of an old quarry boulder underneath Atlantide.

Climat-Tique 7a+roof / sitstartFrédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
*****  [ 3 photos ] topo nº44; low sitstart and exit to the right using bidoigts.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Développement du Râble 7b+

Tom 7a+traverse frtl / sitstartArnaud Ceintre
***** n°4 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry, on the backside of the boulder of La Cicatrice de l'Ohm. Sitstart at the right angle and exit before the second one.
Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 100m further, in the Western face.


Les Révoltés du "Et" 7a+traverse frtlArnaud Ceintre
*****  [ 1 photo ] n°6 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry, on the boulder of La Cicatrice de l'Ohm. Follow the ledge and exit via the arete of Acouphène.
Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 100m further, in the Western face.


La Dernière Goutte 7a+ (7b)slightly overhanging / slopersFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº11; belly without the crack on the boulder of Été moins Une; exit on slopers.

Le Canard de Bain 7a+ (7b)traverseThierry Guéguen
***** topo nº5'; start completely right in L'Auvent des Corneilles, traverse to the left as for Fuite à Bâbord and go back to exit in Grand Reef.
Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. 80m after Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, shortly before the path to the main sector, take a small path to the right, leading to a hidden roof. A dry period is recommended.

See also: Fuite à Bâbord 6c+

Coup de Chaleur 7bprowFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nº8; exit on the right without the jug.
See also:  [ 4 photos ]  Été moins Une 7b+

Jerry 7btraverse fltr / mantle / sitstartArnaud Ceintre
*****  [ 6 photos ] n°8 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Sitstart on the left, pass the angle of La Fermeture Éclair and exit on the right by a mantle.
Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 150m further, in the Western face, 40m past the one with La Cicatrice de l'Ohm.


L'Oh Ferrugineuse 7broof / traverse fltr / sitstartThierry Guéguen
***** topo nº3; sitstart to the right of Grand Reef with a crack left hand and a cripm right hand, climb the roof, traverse to the left and exit in Ça Tire.

Submersible 7broof / traverse frtl / sitstartThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 5 photos ] topo nº4; sitstart as for L'Oh Ferrugineuse, with a crack left hand and a crimp right hand, climb the roof, traverse to the right and exit as for Grand Reef.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Grand Reef 7a

Tubique 7bslightly overhanging / slopers / mantleFrançois Louvel
topo nº34; right problem on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream. Standing start, take an undercling and exit by a mantle above.

Pirouette Cacaouette droite 7b+slightly overhanging / prowThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 5 photos ] n°1 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Slightly overhanging prow (slightly expo). Variant of Pirouette Cacaouette by exiting in the right face, using the underclings.
Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). The problem is on the right of La Route des Petites Maisons, underneath the Eastern side of the main area, about 200m from the N152, after an old quarry.

See also:  [ 13 photos ]  Pirouette Cacaouette 7c

Été moins Une 7b+prow / expoFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 4 photos ] topo nº9; direct exit to the left of Coup de Chaleur.
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 3 photos ]  Coup de Chaleur 7b

Développement du Râble 7b+roof / slopers / sitstartGilles Cottray
 [ 1 photo ] topo nº45; start as for Climat-Tique, but exit to the left on slopers.
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  Climat-Tique 7a+

Acouphène assis 7b+ (7c)arete / sitstartThierry Guéguen
sitstart of Acouphène (see n°5 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry).
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Acouphène 6c+

Pirouette Cacaouette 7cprow / slightly overhangingThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 13 photos ] n°1 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Slightly overhanging prow (slightly expo); exit in the left face.
Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). The problem is on the right of La Route des Petites Maisons, underneath the Eastern side of the main area, about 200m from the N152, after an old quarry.

See also:  [ 5 photos ]  Pirouette Cacaouette droite 7b+

Rio Bravo 7ctraverse fltrThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ] n°2 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Short and crimpsy traverse, in the Western face, 70m to the North of Pirouette Cacaouette, before Cap ou pas Cap.
Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, and turn right before the thalweg : the problem is just underneath the plateau. (GPS: N48.377180 E2.647400)

See also: Rio Bravo en retour-aller 7c+

La Fermeture Éclair 7cslightly overhanging / sitstartArnaud Ceintre
*****  [ 3 photos ] n°9 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Direct problem in the middle of the traverse of Jerry. Sitstart without using the small boulder.
Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 150m further, in the Western face, 40m past the one with La Cicatrice de l'Ohm.


Cap ou Pas Cap (gauche-droite) 7ctraverse fltr / sitstart-
***** back low traverse of Cap ou Pas Cap, with a sitstart to the left (see n°3 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry).
Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, and turn right before the thalweg : the problem is underneath the plateau, past Rio Bravo.

See also: Cap ou Pas Cap (aller-retour) 7c (7c+), Cap ou Pas Cap 7c (7c+)

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