Bleau.info : Mare aux Corneilles : Topo

thanks to Thierry Guéguen & Frédéric Buc

This small area, located near Le Rocher de la Combe, has been exploited recently and proposes about 30 problems (from 3b to 7c). From Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau, follow the N152 for 5km600 in direction of Ury, turn right at Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray and park the car 500m further along La Route Ronde at the next crossing, near La Mare aux Corneilles. The main sector is 700m from the parking lot : follow La Route de la Mare aux Corneilles and turn right at a small path after the crossing, instead of going down. A first big boulder appears on the left at the end of the plateau.

1	Ça Mousse 6a	wall / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
left problem in L'Auvent des Corneilles. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. 80m after Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, shortly before the path to the main sector, take a small path to the right, leading to a hidden roof. A dry period is recommended.
2	Grand Reef 7a	traverse fltr / roof / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart on the left of L'Auvent des Corneilles, traverse on the ledge of the roof and exit in a flared dihedral. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. 80m after Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, shortly before the path to the main sector, take a small path to the right, leading to a hidden roof. A dry period is recommended.
3	L'Oh Ferrugineuse 7b	roof / traverse fltr / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart to the right of Grand Reef with a crack left hand and a cripm right hand, climb the roof, traverse to the left and exit in Ça Tire.
4	Submersible 7b	roof / traverse frtl / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart as for L'Oh Ferrugineuse, with a crack left hand and a crimp right hand, climb the roof, traverse to the right and exit as for Grand Reef.
5	Fuite à Bâbord 6c+	traverse frtl / roof	Thierry Guéguen
start completely right in L'Auvent des Corneilles, climb the roof, traverse to the left and exit in Ça Mousse. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. 80m after Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, shortly before the path to the main sector, take a small path to the right, leading to a hidden roof. A dry period is recommended.
5'	Le Canard de Bain 7a+ (7b)	traverse	Thierry Guéguen
start completely right in L'Auvent des Corneilles, traverse to the left as for Fuite à Bâbord and go back to exit in Grand Reef. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. 80m after Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, shortly before the path to the main sector, take a small path to the right, leading to a hidden roof. A dry period is recommended.
6	18 Pieds 6b+	roof	Thierry Guéguen
direct roof on the right of L'Auvent des Corneilles (exit of the traverse of Grand Reef). Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. 80m after Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, shortly before the path to the main sector, take a small path to the right, leading to a hidden roof. A dry period is recommended.
7	Le Toit Cornélien 6c (6c+)	roof / crack / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
roof 80m to the South-West of L'Auvent des Corneilles. Sitstart completely right, climb the roof using cracks and exit by a mantle on the ledge. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Mare aux Corneilles. At Le Carrefour de la Mare aux Corneilles, take Le Chemin des Petites Maisons for 80m and go straight to the left towards a hidden roof for which a dry period is recommended.
8	Coup de Chaleur 7b	prow	Frédéric Buc
exit on the right without the jug.
9	Été moins Une 7b+	prow / expo	Frédéric Buc
direct exit to the left of Coup de Chaleur.
10	- 5	crack	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the left of Été moins Une.
11	La Dernière Goutte 7a+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / slopers	Frédéric Buc
belly without the crack on the boulder of Été moins Une; exit on slopers.
12	- 4+	wall / arete	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of Été moins Une.
13	- 4+	slab / crimps	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of Été moins Une. Climb the slab diagonally to the left.
14	- 5+	wall	Frédéric Buc
to the left of the face of Été moins Une.
14b	La Traversée de la Casse Départ 5-	traverse frtl	Pepito
on the big boulder of Été moins Une. Start at the crack on the right and exit in the left problem.
15	Angleterre à Terre 7a (6c+)	arete / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of Été moins Une. Low sitstart and exit by the arete (standing start is 6a). NB : be careful with the big flake of the low sitstart! (a 6b direct sitstart is also possible anyway).
16	O.G.M. 5+	arete / slopers	Frédéric Buc
round arete underneath Jet Stream.
17	Gulf Stream 6c (6b+)	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Cyril Bottollier / Nicolas Blaise
on the boulder just right of Jet Stream. Sitstart at the right angle, traverse on slopers and exit at the end of the face.
18	Jet Stream 7a	roof / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
low sitstart in a small roof.
19	Glissement Tech-Tonique 6b+	slab	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
to the left of Jet Stream.
20	Goncourt Libre 4	slab	Pascal Etienne
1m to the left of Glissement Tech-Tonique.
21	Le Plinth 4	wall	Pascal Etienne
left problem on the face of Glissement Tech-Tonique.
22	- 3	slab	Frédéric Buc
left problem on the slab to the East of Jet Stream.
23	- 6a	slab	Frédéric Buc
second problem from the left, in the slab to the East of Jet Stream.
24	Les Rapides 4+ (5)	slab / arete	Pascal Etienne / Pepito
on the slab to the East of Jet Stream. Exit by the left arete is 5b.
25	L'Élan 5-	slab	Pascal Etienne / Pepito
right problem on the slab to the East of Jet Stream.
26	- 4+	arete	Frédéric Buc
sitstart is 6b.
27	Art Mystique 5	pillar / monos	Pepito
on the South face of the boulder to the east of Jet Stream.
28	Bâbord 5 (5+)	arete / mantle	Nicolas Blaise / Cyril Bottollier
left problem on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream.
29	- 6c (7a)	wall / pinches / sitstart	Nicolas Blaise
central problem on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream.
30	- 5	crack / mantle / sitstart	Nicolas Blaise / Cyril Bottollier
on the backside of the boulder to the East of Jet Stream.
31	La Fourrière 6a+	wall	Eric Létot
right problem on the backside of the boulder to the East of Jet Stream.
31b	- 6c	traverse fltr / slopers	-
on the backside of the boulder to the East of Jet Stream. Standing start at the left angle in Bâbord, traverse on slopers and exit completely right in La Fourrière (6a by exiting 1m before).
34	Tubique 7b	slightly overhanging / slopers / mantle	François Louvel
right problem on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream. Standing start, take an undercling and exit by a mantle above.
35	Ainsi Font 6a	slightly overhanging / slopers / dyno	François Louvel
central problem on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream.
35b	Atlandide raccourci 6c	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	François Louvel
on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream. Sitstart on the left as for Montée des Eaux, traverse on slopers and exit in Ainsi Font.
36	Montée des Eaux 6c	overhang / mantle / sitstart	François Louvel
voie de gauche sur l'envers du bloc situé à l'Est de Jet Stream. Partir assis, remonter le surplomb et sortir en réta.
37	Atlantide 7a	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	François Louvel
on the boulder to the East of Jet Stream. Sitstart on the left as for Montée des Eaux, traverse on slopers and exit completely to the right.
39	- 6a	arete	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
arete on the boulder to the right of Lame de Fond.
40	Lame de Fond 6a+	slab	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
right slab.
41	La Casse Départ 5	slab	Frédéric Buc
to the left of Lame de Fond.
42	6 Clones 6c+	prow / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder to the right of Climat-Tique.
44	Climat-Tique 7a+	roof / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
low sitstart and exit to the right using bidoigts.
45	Développement du Râble 7b+	roof / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
start as for Climat-Tique, but exit to the left on slopers.
52	Vague de Chaleur 6b+	traverse frtl / roof	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
traverse to the left and exit in the roof.
53	Pétole 6c+	traverse frtl / roof	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
start as for Vague de Chaleur but climb directly the roof and exit to the right.
56	Green-Glisse 6b+	slab	Frédéric Buc
on the boulder underneath the one with Pétole.
58	Énergie Fossile 7a	traverse fltr / sitstart / arete	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart on the left and exit via the arete.
59	- 6a	wall / pockets	Frédéric Buc
to the right of Énergie Fossile, without the jug on the right.
61	Le Bout d'Écaille 5+ (6a)	arete / expo	J. Arrivepas
arete to the left of Salade d'Escalope, on an old quarry boulder underneath Atlantide.
62	Salade d'Escalope 7a	dyno	C. Larprise
run&jump in the center of an old quarry boulder underneath Atlantide.
63	- 4-	crack	-
crack on the right face of Salade d'Escalope, on an old quarry boulder underneath Atlantide.
64	- 4	wall	-
in the center of the right face of Salade d'Escalope, on an old quarry boulder underneath Atlantide.
		Outside the topo
Pirouette Cacaouette droite 7b+		slightly overhanging / prow	Thierry Guéguen
n°1 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Slightly overhanging prow (slightly expo). Variant of Pirouette Cacaouette by exiting in the right face, using the underclings. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). The problem is on the right of La Route des Petites Maisons, underneath the Eastern side of the main area, about 200m from the N152, after an old quarry.
Pirouette Cacaouette 7c		prow / slightly overhanging	Thierry Guéguen
n°1 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Slightly overhanging prow (slightly expo); exit in the left face. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). The problem is on the right of La Route des Petites Maisons, underneath the Eastern side of the main area, about 200m from the N152, after an old quarry.
Cap ou Pas Cap (gauche-droite) 7c		traverse fltr / sitstart	-
back low traverse of Cap ou Pas Cap, with a sitstart to the left (see n°3 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry). Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, and turn right before the thalweg : the problem is underneath the plateau, past Rio Bravo.
Cap ou Pas Cap 7c (7c+)		traverse frtl	Thierry Guéguen
n°3 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Short low traverse 80-100m from Pirouette Cacaouette and slightly to its right (7b+ using upper holds). Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, and turn right before the thalweg : the problem is underneath the plateau, past Rio Bravo.
Cap ou Pas Cap (aller-retour) 7c (7c+)		traverse	Manuel Marquès
there and back (without eliminate) of Cap ou Pas Cap (n°3 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Sitstart to the left, traverse to the right, come back at the angle and exit at the crack (2m to the right of the starting point).
Rio Bravo 7c		traverse fltr	Thierry Guéguen
n°2 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Short and crimpsy traverse, in the Western face, 70m to the North of Pirouette Cacaouette, before Cap ou pas Cap. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, and turn right before the thalweg : the problem is just underneath the plateau. (GPS: N48.377180 E2.647400)
Rio Bravo en retour-aller 7c+		traverse	Christian Roumégoux
there and back of Rio Bravo (see n°2 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry). (GPS: N48.377180 E2.647400)
Tom 7a+		traverse frtl / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
n°4 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry, on the backside of the boulder of La Cicatrice de l'Ohm. Sitstart at the right angle and exit before the second one. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 100m further, in the Western face.
Acouphène 6c+		arete	Thierry Guéguen
n°5 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Direct angle on the boulder of La Cicatrice de l'Ohm. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 100m further, in the Western face.
Acouphène assis 7b+ (7c)		arete / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart of Acouphène (see n°5 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry).
Les Révoltés du "Et" 7a+		traverse frtl	Arnaud Ceintre
n°6 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry, on the boulder of La Cicatrice de l'Ohm. Follow the ledge and exit via the arete of Acouphène. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 100m further, in the Western face.
La Cicatrice de l'Ohm (version haute) 7c+		traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
n°7 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Sitstart under the overhang, go straight up in the wall, pass the angle and exit via a mantle at the top of the boulder. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 100m further, in the Western face.
La Cicatrice de l'Ohm 8b (8b+)		traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
n°7 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Sitstart under the overhang, low traverse, pass the angle and exit via a mantle at the top of the boulder. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 100m further, in the Western face.
Jerry 7b		traverse fltr / mantle / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
n°8 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Sitstart on the left, pass the angle of La Fermeture Éclair and exit on the right by a mantle. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 150m further, in the Western face, 40m past the one with La Cicatrice de l'Ohm.
La Fermeture Éclair 7c		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
n°9 of the topo du Secteur Tom & Jerry. Direct problem in the middle of the traverse of Jerry. Sitstart without using the small boulder. Access : from the Obélisque of Fontainebleau, take the N152 for 4km500 in direction of Ury and park along the road 300m before Le Carrefour de la Croix de Souvray (crossing with La Route Ronde de Franchard). Follow La Route des Petites Maisons for about 150m from the N152, turn right at the thalweg, pass Pirouette Cacaouette and Cap ou pas Cap : the boulder is 150m further, in the Western face, 40m past the one with La Cicatrice de l'Ohm.

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