Bleau.info : J.A. Martin : Topo

Bleau.info : J.A. Martin : Topo


		Circuit PD- yellow (nº 1)
1	- 2	-	-

2	- 2	-	-

3	- 2	-	-

4	- 2	-	-

5	- 1	-	-

6	- 1	-	-

7	- 2	-	-

8	- 2	-	-

9	- 2	-	-

10	- 2	-	-

11	- 2	-	-

12	- 2	-	-

13	- 2	-	-

14	- 3-	-	-

14 bis	- 3	-	-

15	- 2	-	-

16	- 3	-	-

17	- 2	-	-

18	- 1	-	-

19	- 1	-	-

20	- 2	-	-

20 bis	- 2+	-	-

21	- 1	-	-

22	- 2	-	-

22 bis	- 2+	-	-

23	- 2	-	-

24	- 2	-	-

25	- 1	-	-

26	- 2	-	-

27	- 1	-	-

28	- 2+	-	-

28 bis	- 2	-	-

29	- 2	-	-

30	- 2	-	-

31	- 2	-	-

31 bis	- 3+	-	-

32	- 2	-	-

33	- 2	-	-

34	- 1	-	-

35	- 2	-	-

36	- 2	-	-

37	- 2+	-	-

38	- 1	-	-

39	- 1	-	-

40	- 2	-	-

41	- 2	-	-

42	- 2	-	-

43	- 2	-	-

44	- 2	-	-

45	- 2	-	-

46	- 1	-	-

47	- 2	-	-

48	- 1	-	-

49	- 2	-	-

50	- 2	-	-

51	- 1	-	-

52	- 1	-	-

53	- 2	-	-

54	- 2	-	-


		Circuit AD+ orange (nº 2)
1	- 4-	-	-

2	- 3+	-	-

3	- 4	-	-

4	- 2	-	-

5	- 4+	-	-

6	- 2+	-	-

7	- 3-	-	-

8	- 3+	-	-

9	- 2+	-	-

10	- 3-	-	-

11	- 3	-	-

12	- 3	-	-

13	- 4-	-	-

14	- 3	-	-

15	- 4-	-	-

16	- 3+	-	-

17	- 3	-	-

18	- 3	-	-

19	- 3	-	-

20	- 3+	-	-

21	- 3-	-	-

22	- 3+	-	-

23	- 3-	-	-

24	- 3	-	-

25	- 3-	-	-

26	- 3	-	-

27	- 3+	-	-

28	- 4-	-	-

29	- 3	-	-

30	- 3	-	-

31	- 3+	-	-

32	- 2	-	-

33	- 3	-	-

34	- 2+	-	-

35	- 3-	-	-

36	- 2	-	-

37	- 3-	-	-

38	- 3-	-	-

39	- 2	-	-

40	- 4-	-	-

41	- 3-	-	-

42	- 3-	-	-

43	- 3-	-	-

44	- 2	-	-

45	- 2	-	-

46	- 2+	-	-

47	- 3	-	-

48	- 3-	-	-

49	- 2+	-	-

50	- 3	-	-

51	- 3-	-	-

52	- 3-	-	-

53	- 3-	-	-

54	- 3-	-	-

55	- 3-	-	-

56	- 3-	-	-

57	- 3	-	-

58	- 3	-	-

59	- 3-	-	-

60	- 3-	-	-

61	- 3	-	-

62	- 3-	-	-

63	- 3	-	-

64	- 3	-	-

65	- 3+	-	-

66	- 4	-	-

67	- 4-	-	-

68	- 3	-	-

69	- 3	-	-

70	- 3	-	-

71	- 3	-	-

72	- 3-	-	-

73	- 3-	-	-

74	- 3-	-	-

75	- 3+	-	-

76	- 2+	-	-

77	- 4-	-	-

78	- 3-	-	-

79	- 4	-	-

80	- 3	-	-

81	- 3	-	-

82	- 4-	-	-

83	- 3	-	-

84	- 3+	-	-

85	- 3-	-	-

86	- 3+	-	-


		Circuit AD+ orange (nº 3)
1	L'Élégante 2+	-	-

1 bis	- 4-	-	-

2	Le Champignon 3-	-	-

3	L'Échelle à Grattons 3	crimps / downclimbing	-

4	La Bascule 3-	-	-

5	La Fosse aux Fourmis 3-	-	-

5 bis	La Fosse aux Fourmis droite 4-	-	-

6	Le Pas des Demoiselles 2	-	-

7	Le Trou du Hibou 4+	-	-

8	- 3-	-	-

9	Le Balancier 2+	-	-

10	- 3	-	-

11	Le Gruyère 3+	expo	-

11 bis	- 3-	downclimbing	-

12	Les Trous du Gruyère 2	-	-

13	La Gambille 3-	downclimbing	-

14	L'Écartelé 3-	-	-

15	Sur les Pinces 2	-	-

16	- 3-	-	-

17	Le Surplomb des Bras Morts 3	overhang	-

18	La Dalle à J.O. 3	downclimbing	-

19	Les Crochets de Pointe 3+	-	-

20	La Plaque au Safran 3+	-	-

21	Le Rempart 3	-	-

22	La Traversée Vivante 3	traverse	-

23	Le Coup de Culot 3+	downclimbing	-

24	Le Déversoir 4-	slightly overhanging	-

24 bis	- 2+	-	-

25	La Dalle du Rempart 2+	slab	-

25 bis	- 3+	-	-

25 ter	La Cheminée des Trois Couloirs 2+	chimney	-

26	- 2+	-	-

27	La Main de Fer 3-	-	-

28	La Traversée du Dièdre 3	downclimbing	-

29	Le Vert de Gris 3+	-	-

30	- 4-	-	-

31	- 3	-	-

32	- 3	downclimbing	-

33	Le Dièdre à Étages 2	dihedral	-

34	- 4+	-	-

35	- 2+	-	-

36	- 3-	downclimbing	-

37	- 3	-	-

38	Les Trois Bosses 2+	-	-

38 bis	La Fissure des Tunnels 3-	downclimbing	-

39	L'Oblique 3-	-	-

40	La Traversée Vaseuse 4-	traverse	-

41	Le Bout du Rempart 3-	-	-

42	- 3-	-	-

43	- 4	downclimbing	-

44	- 3	-	-

45	La Grande Dalle V.N. 2+	slab	-

45 bis	La Grande Dalle directe 4-	slab	-

46	- 3-	-	-

47	La Traversée Expo 4-	traverse	-

47 bis	- 4+	-	-

47 ter	- 2+	downclimbing	-

48	Le Couloir du Rempart 3-	-	-

49	- 3	-	-

49 bis	- 4-	-	-

50	L'Angle du Rempart 3+	arete	-

51	- 3	downclimbing	-

52	La Petite Fissure 4-	crack	-

53	Le Petit Obèse 3	downclimbing	-

54	La Bleausarde 2	-	-

55	Le Donjon 4-	-	-

55 bis	L'Aérolithe 5-	-	-

56	L'Équilibriste 3-	-	-

57	La Goulotte 4-	downclimbing	-

58	- 3	-	-

59	Les Étagères 3-	-	-

60	Le Baquet d'Eau 3-	-	-

60 bis	- 3	-	-

60 ter	-	downclimbing	-

61	La Dalle en Pente 3	slab	-

62	Le Pas de Droite 3-	downclimbing	-

63	Le Pas qui Coûte 4	-	-

64	La Dalle Taillée 3	slab	-


		Circuit D sky blue (nº 5)
1	L'Arête des Ribaudes 5-	arete	-

1 bis	La Fissure de la Grand-Mère 6a (5+)	crack	-
more difficult since sand went out.
2	La Tête à Queue 5-	-	-

3	La Grandissime 3+	wall / crack	-

4	La Dalle de l'As 4	wall	-

5	Le Point d'Alençon 4-	crack / slightly overhanging	-
sitstart is 4b.
6	La Traversée du Gros Cube 3+	traverse frtl	-

7	La Mobylette 4-	slab	-

8	L'Allonge 4	-	-

9	La Dalle des Vautours 4-	slab	-

10	La Grande Décision 3	-	-

10 bis	La Talonnade 4-	-	-

11	La Facilité 3	-	-

11 bis	La Truande 5	-	-

12	Le Picrate 4+	-	-

12 bis	Les Doigts Crochus 4	-	-

13	Le Bel Effort 4+	-	-

14	Le Bigorneau 3-	-	-

15	La Version Blocage 4+	-	-

16	La Voie de la Raie 3+	-	-

17	La Dominique 4-	-	-

17 bis	La Formidable 4	-	-

18	La Râpeuse 5	-	-

18 bis	L'Angleterre 5-	-	-

19	La Voie de Kim 4+	-	-

20	Le Moulin à Vent 4-	-	-

21	Le Surplomb de l'Urgence 4	overhang	-

22	La Pince à Ongles 4+	slab	-

23	La Fissure des Maudits Chasseurs 5-	crack	-

24	Le Pied de Nez 4	-	-

25	La Détente 3-	-	-

26	Les Patins à Glace 4	-	-

26 bis	L'Exclu 4+	-	-

27	L'Écartelée 3-	-	-

28	La Vespasienne 4+	wall / arete	-

29	Le Petit Mur Jaune 4	wall	-

30	Les Grattons 4-	crimps	-

31	L'Arête du Poisson 3+	arete	-

32	La Dalle du 14ème Dimanche 4-	slab	-

33	Les Manettes 4-	-	-

34	La Camomille 4+	wall	-

35	La Chouchounette 4-	crack	-

36	L'Amuse-Gueule 4	-	-

37	La Dalle Moutonnée 3-	slab	-

37 bis	Le Voyage sur le Pouce 5	-	-

38	La Grande Traversée 4-	traverse	-

39	La Molto Esposito 4-	-	-

39 bis	Les Poignets d'Amour 4+	-	-

40	L'Angle Fissuré 4-	arete	-

41	Le Plein à Bras 3+	-	-

42	L'Anodin 4-	-	-

43	La Saveur Amère 3+	wall	-

44	La Fissure 3-	crack	-

45	La Samson 5-	-	-

46	Le Mur de Cloître 3+	wall	-

47	L'Évasion des Carmélites 3+	-	-

48	La Traversée sans Retour 4+	traverse	-

49	La Châtaigne 4	-	-

50	La Dalle aux Étages 3+	slab	-


		Circuit D+ blue (nº 6)
1	Le Starter 4	wall	-

2	Le Pommeau 5-	slightly overhanging	-

3	La Déchirure 4	-	-

4	Le Mur en Faïence 4	wall / crimps	-

5	Le Tour de Main 5+	slab	-

6	La Voie du Forçat 5	slightly overhanging / underclings / mantle	-

7	L'Entrechat 4+	slab	-

8	L'Incertitude 5-	wall / traverse fltr	-

9	La Brosse à Ongles 4+	-	-

10	La Jaunisse 4	wall / underclings	-

11	La Dalle Cirée 4	slab / arete	-

12	Le Croche-Pied 4	wall	-

13	La Trapèze 4+	-	-

14	L'Opposition 4+	wall	-

15	Le Carré de Chocolat 4-	-	-

16	Un Coin de Paradis 4-	-	-

17	Truc et Astuce 5-	-	-

18	La Brasse Crawlée 5-	-	-

19	Attention Fragile 4+	-	-

20	La Force de Caractère 5-	-	-

21	La Fissure de l'Étrave 4-	crack	-

22	Dérapage Contrôlé 4+	-	-

23	La grande nouvelle 4+	-	-

24	La Conduite Forcée 4	-	-

25	Le Coup de Pied 4	-	-

26	L'Échappatoire 4+	-	-

27	L'Arête Dorsale 4+	wall / crack	-

28	La Fissure Contractuelle 4+	crack	-

29	L'Ardu 5-	-	-

30	Éclats de Verre 4+	-	-

31	Le Coup de Cymbale 4+	-	-

32	La Voie Inquiète 4	-	-

33	La Pousée d'Archimède 4	wall / mantle	-

34	Le Casse Pied 4+	-	-

35	Le Jeu de Paume 5	-	-

36	Carrefour 4+	-	-


		Circuit TD+ red (nº 7)
1	Le Mur du Son 6c	wall / expo	-
to the left of La Fissure de la Grand-Mère.
2	Deuxième Souffle 6a	slightly overhanging	-
dévers à doigts.
3	Astragale 5	wall / high	-

4	Le Préfabriqué 6a (5+)	wall	-
mur avec des prises taillées un peu expo depuis qu'un bloc a roulé jusqu'à son pied à la suite de travaux de sécurisation.
5	Haute Tension 5- (5+)	wall / expo	-

6	La Bascule 5	wall / slopers / mantle	-
mur avec un pied-main sur des plats.
7	Croque-Monsieur 6a	crack / expo	-

8	Repose-Pied 5+	slab / slopers / mantle	-
dalle avec une sortie ronde en réta.
9	Pique-Assiette 5	slab	-

10	Invertébré 5+	slightly overhanging / expo	-

11	Hélice 5+	wall / crimps	-
mur jaune déversant.
12	La Traversée des Dieux 5+	traverse frtl	-

13	Ventriloque 6a	wall	-

14	La Pleurnicheuse 6a	wall	-
mur souvent humide.
15	Météores 4+	wall	-

16	Cul de Sac 5	wall	-

17	Pente Douce 5	slab	-

18	Tête à Claques 6b	arete / slopers	-
angle rond demandant de bonnes conditions d'adhérence.
19	Pleine Lune 5	traverse fltr	-

20	L'Allemande 6a	wall / mantle	-

21	Plat et Replat 5+	slightly overhanging / mantle	-

22	Dérive 6b	traverse frtl	-
traversée aux prises un peu sableuses.
23	Marteau Fou 5	wall / slopers	-

24	Brosse à Ongles 5- (5)	slab	-

25	Le Miroir aux Alouettes 6a	slab / crack	-
belle dalle fissurée.
26	Grain de Beauté 6a	slightly overhanging / crimps / arete	-

27	Effet Dièdre 5+	traverse fltr / crack / underclings	-
traversée ascendante avec départ en dièdre.
28	Coquille d'Œuf 6a	wall / underclings	-
grosse écaille dont une partie a cassé.
29	Petite Fugue 6a	slab	-

30	Numéro Spécial 5	slab / expo	-

31	Sculpture 6a	prow / slightly overhanging	-

32	Lance-Pierres 5+	-	-

33	Fond de Culotte 5	slightly overhanging / expo	-

34	Crise du Logement 5+	arete / slightly overhanging / expo	-

35	Brosse à Dents 5	slab / traverse frtl	-

36	Poignée d'Amour 5+	-	-

37	L'Œuf d'Autruche 5+	arete	-

38	Escapade 6a	traverse frtl	-

39	L'Inversée Satanique 5	underclings	-

40	Le Quarantième Rugissant 6a	crimps	-
bombé à grattons.
41	Trompe L'Œil 5+	wall / expo	-

42	La Voie de l'Arbre / Le Pornographe 6b	wall	-
mur déversant avec une dalle plate au pied. NB : un arbre pendait autrefois de la fissure de sortie, d'où l'ancien nom de la voie.
43	Filature 5	crack	-

44	Mauvais Pas 5+	slab	-
dalle orientée au Nord.
45	Travaux Forcés 6a	traverse frtl	-
traversée ascendante avec des prises taillées.
46	Soupçon 6a	traverse fltr / expo	-
démarrer dans le numéro bleu clair et faire une traversée ascendante expo.
47	Figure Imposée 5+	wall / expo	-

48	Gras Double 5	slab	-
dalle fine.
49	Temps Chaud 5+	wall / expo	-

50	Dernière Valse 5	wall	-
mur à feuillet.

		Outside the circuits
1	Jardin Secret (intégral) 7c	traverse fltr	Olivier Penel
from the parking, follow the drivable path for 150m; the boulder is 100m to the right, near white n°34 (of the children's circuit). Start completely left on slopers, downclimb to the start of Jardin Secret, continue to traverse, pass under the boulder on crimps and exit completely to the right. NB : it is also possible to continue to traverse to the starting point.
1b	Jardin Secret 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr	Olivier Penel
in the middle of the yellow circuit, along the path between the parking lot of J.A. Martin and that of Rocher Guichot. Start under the overhang, traverse to the right and exit via cracks before the passage under the boulder. It is also possible to exit 1m50 before in a nameless 6c (7b).
1c	- 6c	slightly overhanging	-
direct problem 1m50 to the left of the exit of Jardin Secret.
2	Revers 6a (6a+)	slightly overhanging	-
right problem on the boulder to the opposite of the start of Jardin Secret intégral.
3	Rodalle 5+ (6a)	wall	-
left problem on the boulder to the opposite of the start of Jardin Secret intégral.
4	Signature 6a	wall	-
left problem on the wall to the right of blue n°1.
5	Bille en Tête 6b (6b+)	wall	Pepito
right problem on the wall to the right of blue n°1.
6	Pied de Nez 7a+	traverse frtl / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of Le Surplomb Pète-Couilles, in the reverse sense of Coup de Soleil. Start to the right of the overhang, traverse to the left with the ledge or underneath (back traverse of Bas Toi!), pass a round angle (often wet), traverse the second face and exit via a slightly overhanging arete or in the slab of the third face.
7	Le Surplomb Pète-Couilles 6a+ (6a)	overhang	-
underneath blue n°3.
8	Coup de Soleil 7a	traverse fltr / overhang	Pepito
traverse on two faces on the boulder 10m underneath blue n°3 (circuit D+ n°6). Start at roots, traverse a first face, pass and angle and exit in Le Surplomb Pète-Couilles, either by following the ledge, or (more difficult) by a low traverse under the overhang as for Bas Toi!.
8b	Bas Toi! 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr / overhang	Pepito
on the boulder 10m underneath blue n°3 (circuit D+ n°6). Start at the angle in the middle of Coup de Soleil, traverse to right under the overhang of Le Surplomb Pète-Couilles and exit in that one.
9	Le Testicule 5+	pillar	-
pillar to the left of blue n°6.
10	Épouvante 7c+	traverse frtl	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
start to the right of blue n°3, traverse on crimps or (morpho) using the slopers on the top and exit at the summit of the prow of Outil de Coupe.
10b	Coupe Basse 7b	traverse frtl / prow / expo	Bernard Théret
start just right of blue n°3 with left hand on a crimp, low traverse to the left and exit in Outil de Coupe.
11	Outil de Coupe 7a	prow / sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart of the prow to the left of blue n°3.
12	Vent Couvert 6b	sitstart / slopers	-
10m underneath blue n°3, on a little boulder facing Le Surplomb Pète-Couilles and Coup de Soleil. Sitstart either on the left or on the right of the boulder, traverse and exit on slopers.
13	La Pomme 6a (6a+)	wall	-
at the right angle of the boulder behind blue n°3, near a tree.
14	Kata-Schisme 7b+	prow / expo	Ludovic Lefebvre
direct prow on the South face of blue n°4.
15	Longue Portée 6c	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	-
to the left of Kata-Schisme, on the South face of the boulder with blue n°4. Sitstart at the big jug and exit with a mantle (expo).
16	Peigne-Cul 6b+	traverse fltr / slopers	-
traverse to the right on the South face of the boulder of blue n°4. Start left, traverse on the ledge and exit as for Longue Portée.
17	Petite Frappe 6a+ (6b)	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart at the left angle of the North-Western face of the boulder with blue n°4.
18	La Plonge 6a (6a+)	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart to the right of blue n°6 and exit in the wall (standing start is 5c).
19	Le Rongeur 6b	traverse frtl	-
on the boulder to the West of blue n°4. Start right and traverse all the face to the left.
20	Mété-Hors 6a+	traverse frtl	-
on the boulder to the North of blue n°4. Start at the right crack and traverse to the left.
21	L'Ascenseur 6a+ (6b)	traverse frtl / sitstart	-
ascending traverse on the boulder of blue n°6. Sitstart at the angle as for Penchant Fatal, traverse to the left on the ledge and exit at the top.
22	Penchant Fatal 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart / expo	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°6. Sitstart just left of the angle, climb it, dyno to the jug of blue n°6 and exit by that one.
23	L'Entrechat droite 4+	wall	-
just right of blue n°7 (without the good hold of that one).
24	Le Conque 6a	wall / expo	-
just left of orange n°11, behind blue n°8.
25	L'Ouvre-Boîtes 6c+	traverse fltr / sitstart	-
sitstart with an undercling right hand and a vertical hold left hand, traverse to the right and exit in orange n°14.
26	L'Éventail 6a+	wall / sitstart	-
on the left face of the boulder with orange n°14. Sitstart with a vertical flake and exit slightly right.
27	L'Homme Volant 6b	arete	Philippe Le Denmat
on the arete to the right of Couleur Feu, on the boulder of blue n°10.
28	Couleur Feu 6c	slightly overhanging	Philippe Le Denmat
central problem in the overhanging face to the right of blue n°10. Exit directly without the jug on the left.
28b	Couleur Feu assis 7a+ (7b)	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Pepito
second problem to the right of blue n°10. Sitstart and exit directly without the jug on the left.
29	L'Ombre Synthétique 6b	slightly overhanging	-
left variant of Couleur Feu, just right of blue n°10.
30	Diffraction 6a	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart of the angle to the right of the start of L'Effet Larguant, 10m to the right of the boulder of L'Arête de Marbre.
31	L'Effet Larguant 7b+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Bernard Théret
30 moves long traverse, 10m to the right of L'Arête de Marbre, blue n°11 and blue n°12. Sitstart completly right with a vertical hold right hand and an undercling left hand. There and back is called Base Jump (8a/8a+).
31b	Base Jump 8a	traverse	-
low there and back traverse of L'Effet Larguant, on the boulder 10m to the right of L'Arête de Marbre, blue n°11 and blue n°12.It is also possible to start from the wide crack to the right of the angle (there and back 8b by (C. Roumégoux).
32	La Fée Larguante 7c	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Jo Montchaussé / Ludo Guérin
10m to the right of the boulder with L'Arête de Marbre, blue n°11 and blue n°12. Sitstart completely right (as for L'Effet Larguant), dyno to the vertical arete, traverse to the left with top holds and exit via the slopers of L'Effet Larguant.
32b	La Fée Larguante en aller-retour 8a (8a+)	traverse / slopers	-
there and back of La Fée Larguante, on the boulder 10m to the right of blue n°11, blue n°12 and L'Arête de Marbre. Sitstart to the right as for L'Effet Larguant), dyno to the angle, traverse with top holds up to the left of the boulder, come back by La Fée Larguante retour and exit completely on the right of the boulder (60 moves approximately).
33	La Fée Larguante retour 7c	traverse fltr / slopers	-
10m to the right of the boulder with L'Arête de Marbre, blue n°11 and blue n°12. Start completely left, make the back traverse of La Fée Larguante and, above its starting point, continue on the ledge for 5m and exit at the end on the right. NB : first known realization by Jo Montchaussé & Ludovic Guérin.
34	Pierre Tombale 6a	wall	-
just right of L'Arête de Marbre, on the face to the right of blue n°11.
35	L'Arête de Marbre 6c	arete	Pepito
to the right of blue n°11.
36	Petit Toi 6c (6c+)	overhang / mantle / sitstart	Alain Dupas / Bernard Théret
on the small boulder just behind L'Arête de Marbre, to the right of blue n°11. Sitstart without crash-pad and exit via a mantle.
37	Les Doigts de Fée 7a+ (7b)	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the left of the one with L'Arête de Marbre, blue n°11 and blue n°12. Traverse on two faces and exit up via a hole just after the second angle.
38	Fièvre Jaune 6b (6b+)	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder to the opposite of Parties Rondes. Start at the corridor between the two boulders with left hand at the angle and traverse to the right without the top holds.
39	Parties Rondes 7a (7a+)	arete / slopers	-
in the Western part of the sector. Sitstart in the corridor with a small crack, and climb the ledge to the left on slopers. Standing start is 6b+ NB : lichened (February 2009).
40	La Marche 6a+	wall	-
on the left side of the round angle of Parties Rondes. Start left hand on a crimp and right hand on a vertical hold.
41	Baby Craque 6b+	traverse frtl / sitstart	-
on the backside of the boulder of Parties Rondes, in the Western part of the sector. Sitstart at a flake, traverse to the left, pass the round angle and exit by a mantle 1m50 further.
42	Rebord Droit 4-	arete / slopers	-
climb the right angle on slopers diagonally to the left and exit at the top of the boulder.
43	Le Soc 6a (6a+)	arete	-
right side of the left arete (6b without the arete).
44	Travabon 6b (6b+)	traverse fltr / slopers	-
short low traverse with an exit on slopers.
45	Demi-Tour 6a	arete / wall	-
angle to the right of Plein Mur, in the Western part of the sector.
46	Plein Mur 6c	wall / crimps	-
direct wall starting in a corridor, in the Western part of the sector.
47	L'Arête Gauche 4 (4+)	arete	-
small arete in the Western part of the sector.
48	Voyage Gratuit 6c+ (6c)	traverse frtl	-
start at the descent of orange n°23, traverse to the left, pass blue n°14 and exit in Parti sans Adresse.
48b	Le Mystère de l'Orange Bleue 7c+	traverse frtl	-
on the boulder of blue n°14. Traverse the whole face to the left and exit in orange n°23. NB : the grade has to be confirmed.
49	Parti sans Adresse 6a+	wall	-
vertical problem to the left of blue n°14.
50	Ministrates 6a+ (6b)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart of the angle on the Western face of the boulder of blue n°14.
51	Le Yéti 6b	overhang / underclings / slab	Eric Létot
to the right of blue n°20, underneath L'Étrave. Start in a small overhang with underclings and exit in the slab.
52	La Dalle Zoulou 6b	wall / slab	-
eliminate to the left of blue n°21.
53	L'Étrave 7b+	prow / slightly overhanging	Patrick Edlinger / Alain Lebian
on the boulder with blue n°21. Update : broken hold but still possible (spring 2004).
53b	L'Étrave assis 7c	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart of L'Étrave, on the boulder with blue n°21.
53c	Vol au Dessus d'un Nid de Coucou 8a	dyno / prow	Tony Fouchereau
exit variant of L'Étrave with a dyno to the left jug from the underclings.
55	Trou Noir 6b	slightly overhanging / mantle	Pepito
slightly overhanging problem to the right of blue n°27; exit with a mantle.
56	Turbulence 5	wall	-
to the left of blue n°27.
57	Le Toit du Ninja Blanc 7a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Bernard Théret
to the opposite of blue n°28. Sitstart to the left with left hand on a horizontal hold and exit slightly right.
59	Tachycardie 5+	wall / expo	Gilles Rotillon / Noël Rotillon
on the boulder to the left of blue n°28.
60	Coup de Bambou 7b+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
in the North face, behind Ariane 5. Sitstart at the big hold and exit in the orange problem of the face on the right.
61	Ariane 5 7c (7b+)	wall / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
to the right of blue n°28, 20m above L'Étrave. NB : a static version with a crimp left hand is also possible (morpho).
62	Chemin Faisan 6a (6a+)	wall / sitstart	-
above the 25 Bosses path, on the boulder behind blue n°29 and blue n°30 (circuit D+ n°6). Sitstart with the two hands on a low crimp and exit via a mantle.
63	Fine de Claire 5+	slab	Patricia Hugues
to the left of blue n°25, without the good hold left hand for the exit.
64	Coup de Pouce 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr / sitstart	-
on the boulder before blue n°31. Sitstart at the small boulder with the crack left hand, traverse to the right and exit via the belly.
65	Porte Ouverte 6b+	arete / wall	-
angle to the left of blue n°33.
66	Piège à Loup 6c	traverse frtl / expo	-
on the boulder above blue n°33. Start completely right, and traverse diagonally to the left.
66b	Tula assis 7a	wall / crimps / sitstart	François Louvel
left problem on the boulder to the right of light blue n°4. Sitstart, climb the wall on crimps, dyno to the ledge of Piège à Loup and exit at the top of the boulder as for that one. Standing start is 6b.
66c	Esprit et Tula 6a (6a+)	wall	François Louvel
central problem on the boulder to the right of light blue n°4. Start right as for Piège à Loup, traverse for 1m50 to the left and exit at the top of the boulder.
66d	Happy Tula 4+	wall / slab	-
right problem on the boulder to the right of light blue n°4.
66d	Tula Hop! 7a	wall / crimps	Manuel Marquès
central problem on the boulder to the right of light blue n°4. Standing start with crimps above a pointed stone, dyno to a pocket and exit above.
67	Ambiance 5+	wall	-
in the face just left of blue n°35.
68	Rupture de Stock 6c+ (7a)	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the right of blue n°33. Start completely left on slopers, traverse to the right, pass the angle and exit via a mantle.
69	Pied d'Alouette 6a (6a+)	arete / sitstart	-
sitstart of the angle to the left of red n°2.
70	L'Homme de Pierre / Bonifreuse 7b+ (7c)	overhang	Greg Sobczak
to the right of red n°3.
71	- 6a	wall	-
vertical problem to the right of red n°6.
73	Je 6c	traverse frtl / slab	-
traverse to the left by a slight downclimbing, pass the angle and exit in red n°9.
74	Le Printemps de Martin 6c	wall / crimps / dyno	-
to the left of Croque-Monsieur (red n°7). Start in a slightly overhanging wall and dyno to a slope.
75	Bibi Fricotin 6c	wall / crimps	-
in the corridor, 1m50 to the right of le Croque-Monsieur (red n°7).
76	Coup de Cymbale 7a (7a+)	wall / dyno	Serge Martinet
in the corridor, to the opposite of red n°9.
78	Dark Side 7b (7a+)	overhang / slopers / expo	Thierry Guéguen
in the North face, 4m from the red path, above Niak Way and red n°10. Exit on slopers (expo).
79	Niak Way / Larmes à l'Œil 7b	wall / crimps / expo	Olivier Penel
1m50 to the left of red n°11.
80	Le Chien Céleste 8a+	traverse frtl / wall / crimps	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
Start at the angle to the right of red n°11, traverse to the left and exit in Niak Way / Larmes à l'Œil.
81	Paul et Paule 6b+ (6c)	crack / sitstart	-
sitstart of the crack 1m50 to the left of red n°12.
82	La Fissure des Quatre Phalanges 6a	crack	-
former sky blue n°9, on the right of the boulder of La Traversée des Dieux (red n°12).
83	Face Cachée 6b	traverse fltr / mantle	-
on the boulder to the right of light blue n°12. Traverse the overhanging face, pass the angle and exit via a mantle in the slab.
84	Bonne Soirée 6b+	wall / sitstart	-
3m to the left of red n°13.
86	Le Fléau d'Armes 6a	expo	-
to the right of red n°13.
87	Pente Douce 6b	traverse fltr / slopers	-
on the boulder underneath red n°13. Start completely left on slopers, traverse to the right and exit just after a round angle.
88	La Voie de la Raie assis 6a+	arete / sitstart	-
sitstart of light blue n°16.
89	La Petite Proue 6b+	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart of the small prow on the boulder just right of light blue n°16.
90	La Voie de Kim assis 7a	overhang / wall / sitstart	Christian Roïk
sitstart in the overhang to the left of sky blue n°19 with a sandy hold left hand, dyno to the ledge, traverse slightly to the right and exit in sky blue n°19.
90b	L'Inutile Beauté 8a	traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
start in light blue n°19 and exit in red n°21.
91	Sur Prise de Taille 6b+ (6b)	wall	-
vertical problem to the right of light blue n°19.
92	Le Magnifique 6b	wall / arete / expo	-
to the right of red n°16.
93	Dérive rallongée 6a+ (6b)	traverse frtl / slopers	-
start on slopers 2m to the right of red n°22 and exit in that one.
94	La Plage 5+ (6a)	wall	-
2m50 to the right of red n°23.
95	Aster 7c+	traverse fltr	Laurent Avare
start in red n°23 and traverse to the right.
96	Le Bouclier 6a+ (6b)	slightly overhanging	-
to the left of red n°45.
97	Le Rotondiforme 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl / slopers	-
on the boulder with red n°40 and blue light n°43. Start at the right angle, traverse to the left with horizontal holds and exit with the slopers to the left of blue light n°43 without the vertical crack.
98	Petit Cerveau 7a+ (7a)	traverse fltr / slopers / pockets	Yann Bruneau / Pepito
sitstart, traverse over two sides of the boulder, and exit in red n°38.
99	Contact 7b+ (7b)	overhang	Jean-Hervé Baudot / Bruno Ritz
in the East side of the area, on the right face of orange n°37, underneath red n°37.
100	La Traversée des Curieux 7b	traverse frtl / slopers	Arnaud Ceintre
on the left face of the boulder of Contact. Start in orange n°37 and exit completely to the left.
101	Pain d'Épice 7a+ (7a)	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
back traverse of La Traversée des Curieux, on the left face of the boulder of Contact. Start at the left angle, traverse to the right and exit in orange n°37.
101b	La Traversée des Curieux en retour-aller 7c	traverse / slopers	-
back and there traverse of La Traversée des Curieux, on the left face of the boulder of Contact. Start at the left angle, traverse to the right up to orange n°37, come back to the left and exit at the angle.
102	- 6a (6a+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
right problem on the boulder to the right of red n°36. Sitstart under the boulder with a flake.
103	- 6a+ (6b)	wall / high / sitstart	-
right problem on the boulder to the right of red n°36. Sitstart at a blue arrow with a flake/crack and exit on a slopy ledge.
104	Pince à Linge 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / crimps	Bernard Théret
just right of red n°32.
105	Action Discrète 8b+ (8c)	traverse frtl / wall / crimps	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
6m traverse (20 moves) just above orange n°22, 30m underneath Aster, towards red n°32. Traverse to the left on a ledge and exit in the crimpsy wall just right of the angle.
106	- 5+ (6a)	arete	-
small angle on the backside of the boulder of orange n°6.
107	Sur le Fil 7a (6c+)	traverse fltr / crack	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of light blue n°28. Start at the angle to the left of orange n°6, traverse to the right by a slab and then on a ledge and exit in light blue n°28. NB : it is also possible to make a sitstart at a flake/crack (red arrow), climb the overhang and continue on the ledge (opening method, about 6c).
107	Sur le Fil en retour-aller 7a+	traverse / crack	-
on the boulder of light blue n°28. Start at the crack of light blue n°28, traverse first on slopers and then on slab up to orange n°6, make the back traverse and exit in light blue n°28.
108	- 6b+ (6c)	wall / slopers	-
to the right of La Fissure, on the boulder of orange n°5.
109	La Fissure 5+ (6a)	arete / wall	-
vertical problem with a crack, to the right of orange n°5.
110	Grattes au Poil 5+	wall / crack	-
on the backside of the boulder to the opposite of orange n°5 (circuit n°2).
111	- 6b+	traverse fltr / slopers	-
start at the angle near yellow n°10, traverse to the right, pass two angles and exit in the face next to yellow n°9.
112	Samothrace 7b+	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Alain Dupas
80m to the right of La Traversée des Curieux, towards Rocher Cailleau. Sitstart in a small roof, traverse to the right on slopers and exit after the angle.
113	Samothrace DG 7b+	traverse frtl / slopers	Alain Dupas / Thierry Guéguen
80m to the right of La Traversée des Curieux, towards Rocher Cailleau. Back traverse of Samothrace; exit above the small overhang on the left.
113b	Samothrace en retour-aller 8a	traverse / slopers	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
80m to the right of La Traversée des Curieux, towards Rocher Cailleau. Back traverse of Samothrace. Start right, make the back traverse of Samothrace up to the small roof, come back and exit completely right, after the angle.
114	L'Écrevisse à Pattes Blanches 7b+ (7b)	roof / mantle / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
low sitstart in a pit, 60m to the right of Samothrace.
115	- 6b+ (6c)	wall / crimps / sitstart	-
on the backside of L'Écrevisse à Pattes Blanches, 60m to the right of Samothrace. Sitstart to the left of the nameless 6c/7a problem and climb the wall using crimps.
116	- 6c+	wall / underclings	-
central problem on the backside of L'Écrevisse à Pattes Blanches, 60m to the right of Samothrace. Start with a crimp left hand and an undercling right hand and exit as for Moules-Frites.>
117	Moules-Frites 6c+ (7a)	arete / slopers / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
round arete on the backside of L'Écrevisse à Pattes Blanches, 60m to the right of Samothrace. Sitstart to the right on a small boulder, climb the arete and exit as for the nameless 6c/7a direct problem.
118	Abriroc 7b (7b+)	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging	Bernard Théret
at the end of the sector Montagne Blanche. Sitstart to the right, make an ascending traverse on a ramp and exit just after the beak of the overhanging arete or (morpho) 1m50 to the left. Access : from the barrier, follow Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche for 50m and turn left at a path. The boulder is 150m further, 15m to the right of the path, after a bend to the right.
118b	Abriloute 7b	overhang / traverse fltr / sitstart	Julien Lefebvre
on the boulder of Abriroc. Low sitstart as for Abriroc gauche, climb the ledge, traverse to the right and exit in the right face with the monodoigt of Biloute.
118b	Biloute 6c+ (7a)	mantle / bidoigt / sitstart	Jacques Sellers
at the end of the sector Montagne Blanche. Sitstart to the right, traverse on the ramp of Abriroc for 1m50, make a mantle on bidoigts and exit in the wall. Access : from the barrier, follow Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche for 50m and turn left at a path. The boulder is 150m further, 15m to the right of the path, after a bend to the right.
118c	Abriroc gauche 7a	overhang / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the left face of the boulder of Abriroc, at the end of the sector Montagne Blanche. Low sitstart with two horizontal holds, climb the left arete and finish as in the left exit of Abriroc. Access : from the barrier, follow Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche for 50m and turn left at a path. The boulder is 150m further, 15m to the right of the path, after a bend to the right.
119	Fines Herbes 6b (6c)	wall / expo	Bernard Théret
on the left face of the boulder of Sergent Poivre, in the sector Montagne Blanche, 50m to the West of Abriroc. Access : from the barrier, follow Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche for 50m and turn left at a path. The boulder is 100m further in the middle of the slope.
120	Sergent Poivre 7a	slightly overhanging / expo / sitstart	Bernard Théret
in the sector Montagne Blanche, 50m to the West of Abriroc. Sitstart at the left angle with the right hand in a little pocket and exit in the right face. Access : from the barrier, follow Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche for 50m and turn left at a path. The boulder is 100m further in the middle of the slope.
121	Blanc Bec 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
small wall to the left of an angle, on a lichened boulder (July 2009) in the sector Montagne Blanche. Access : from the barrier, follow Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche for 150m. The boulder is 20m on the left of the path, in the middle of the slope..
122	Rouge Feu 6c	arete / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on a lichened boulder (July 2009) in the sector Montagne Blanche. Sitstart at the angle and exit on the left. Access : from the barrier, follow Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche for 150m. The boulder is 20m on the left of the path, in the middle of the slope.
122b	Vert Veine 6b (6c)	arete / slab / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on a lichened boulder (July 2009) in the sector Montagne Blanche. Sitstart at the angle and exit to the right of the pocket, by the slab. Access : from the barrier, follow Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche for 150m. The boulder is 20m on the left of the path, in the middle of the slope.
123	Fer Forgé 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / expo / sitstart	Bernard Théret
in the middle of the slope, 30m to the right of Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche. Sitstart in the overhang with the two hands in the left pocket, climb the prow and exit on its right. NB : the boulder has recently been rebrushed.
123b	Le Trou Normand 7a	traverse fltr / monos / sitstart	Øystein Andresen
in the middle of the slope, 30m to the right of Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche. Sitstart in the overhang with the two hands in the left pocket as for Fer Forgé, traverse to the right and exit by the right arete.
123c	Rectoscopie 6a	wall / monos / sitstart	Øystein Andresen
in the middle of the slope, 30m to the right of Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche. Sitstart under the exit of Le Trou Normand and climb the wall without the right arete.
124	Mousse Parano 6b+ (6c)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Jacques Sellers
on a bowl-shaped boulder, 50m to the West of Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche, 20m to the right of Fer Forgé, underneath L'Anti-Moustique. Sitstart with sidepulls, take a vertical hold left hand and exit with a round pinch.
125	L'Anti-Moustique 7a	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Ivan Moreels
in the middle of the slope, 50m to the West of Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche, 20m behind and slightly above Fer Forgé. Sitstart in the overhang with an undercling and exit by a mantle, directly or by using the small crack on the left.
126	Le Tour des Flandres 7a	traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart	Jacques Sellers
on the boulder of L'Anti-Moustique, in the middle of the slope, 50m to the West of Le Chemin de la Montagne Blanche, 20m behind and slightly above Fer Forgé. Sitstart completely right with a bidoigt right hand and a crimp left hand, traverse on the ledge, pass the angle to the left of L'Anti-Moustique and exit by a mantle just after.
127	Voyageur Solitaire 7c (7b+)	traverse fltr / slopers / crimps	-
in the left sector, 80m to the South of the parking lot of JA Martin, on the other side of the D63. Just after Les Farces de la Nature. Prolongation by C. Laumone: Trafic, 8b.
127b	Trafic 8b	traverse fltr / slopers / crimps	Christophe Laumone
in the left sector, 80m to the South of the parking lot, on the other side of the D63. Just after Les Farces de la Nature. Start as for Voyageur Solitaire, but continue on slopers on the ledge (without the top holds) and exit to the right of the boulder.
127c	Trafic haut 7c+	traverse fltr / slopers / crimps	-
in the left sector, 80m to the South of the parking lot, on the other side of the D63, just after Les Farces de la Nature. Start as for Voyageur Solitaire, but continue with the slopers and crimps of the top of the boulder and exit to the right.
128	Les Farces de la Nature 7a+ (7b)	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
in the left sector, 80m to the south of the parking on the other side of the D63. To the left of the path, just before Voyageur Solitaire.

		Outside the topo
La Directe du Dièdre 6c (7a)		wall / mantle	Philippe Le Denmat
direct problem in the center of the ascending traverse of L'Effet Dièdre (red n°27).
Trompe L'Œil de droite 6b		wall	Eric Létot
just right of red n°41, with a sloper right hand.
La Directe de la Voie de l'Arbre 7a		wall / slopers	Eric Létot
direct problem to the left of red n°42, with a sloper left hand. NB : a 6c exit more on the left is also possible.
Filature assis 6b		crack / sitstart	Pepito / Blokeur
sitstart in the overhang and exit by the crack of Filature (red n°43).
La Moby 4-		-	-
former sky blue n°6.
La Fente 3+		-	-
former sky blue n°16.
L'Arête des Hu-Bleau 3		arete	-
former sky blue n°25.
La Traction Avant 3+		-	-
former sky blue n°26.
La Coincée 3+		-	-
former sky blue n°28.
L'Anodin 4-		-	-
former sky blue n°30.
Le Mur Cassé 4-		wall	-
former sky blue n°32.
La Dalle des Morpions 3		slab	-
former sky blue n°33.
La Dalle de la Femelle 3+		slab	-
former sky blue n°35.
La Dalle des Veaux Doués 2+		slab	-
between blue light n°10 and n°11.
- 6b+		wall	-
vertical problem to left of blue n°21.
Étalonnage 6a		arete	Pepito
angle (with two feet hooks) to the right of blue n°8 (circuit D+ n°6).
La Salopette 6b (6b+)		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pepito / Blokeur
sitstart of an overhang near the top of the hill and the end of the red circuit.
Machine Talon 6a+		traverse frtl / crack	Pepito
no foot traverse on the boulder of Action Discrète, just above orange n°22, 30m underneath Aster, towards red n°32. Start on the stone of the ground and exit by a crack.
Fiche de Vœux 6a		wall / slopers	Pepito
steep wall to the right of orange n°2. Take a small hold left hand and exit with a sloper right hand.
Les Cyclades 6c		roof / traverse frtl / crack	Pepito
in a roof 50m to the East of Samothrace. Traverse to the left and exit via the crack.

Bleau.info : J.A. Martin : Topo

Circuit PD- yellow (nº 1)

Circuit AD+ orange (nº 2)

Circuit AD+ orange (nº 3)

Circuit D sky blue (nº 5)

Circuit D+ blue (nº 6)

Circuit TD+ red (nº 7)

Outside the circuits

Outside the topo