Bleau.info : Maunoury : Topo

In the village of Larchant, take a road to the North for 2km (follow the arrows "Dame Jouanne"), turn right and park at the inn of Le Chalet Jobert. Take the path for 300m, turn left and then right after the boulder of black n°W. The boulders can be found a little further, in the southside of the sector.

1Instinct 7c+dyno / roofSébastien Frigault
*****  [ 2 photos ] sitstart and climb the overhang just left of red n°16. NB : the red problem n°23 corresponds to a former numbering of the red circuit.
2Saucisse Frites 6a (5+)wall / crack / expoPhilippe Berger
gully above a small boulder (and former red n°22), to the right of red n°14.
3Full Monty assis 7coverhang / sitstartVincent Cantrelle
*****  [ 3 photos ] sitstart of red n°19.
4L'Œil de Boîte dans l'Épaule 6c+ (7a)sitstart / crack / bidoigtJan Gorrebeeck
*****  [ 2 photos ] three meters to the right of blue n°11 bis. Sitstart with a large undercling in the hole with two hands, and stay subsequently to the right of the small tree. It is also possible to exit further to the right at a jug (7b).
5Movement Activated 7bdynoKees Mak
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 photos ] just right of Envergure (red n°11). A static move (7a?) is also possible by using a hold on the right.
6Crash Crack 5+crack / expoPepito / Philippe Berger
 [ 1 photo ] former red n°19, on the right face of blue n°12.
7Retrouvaille au Paradis 6carete / expo / sitstartGuillaume Tournus / Tony Fouchereau
 [ 4 photos ] on the left face of the traverse of blue n°13. Sitstart with the two hands in a big pocket and exit on the left arete.
7bPour l'Éternité 6awall / mantle / sitstartGuillaume Tournus / Tony Fouchereau
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the left face of the traverse of blue n°13. Sitstart with the two hands in a big pocket and exit by a mantle on the right.
8Dalle de l'Aumône 4expo-
former red n°17, to the left of blue n°15.
9Rituel 7a+overhang / slopers / sitstartFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 4 photos ] on a bowl near blue n°16 at the bottom of the slope. Sitstart with two underclings and exit on slopers (ultra low start is 7c+/8a).
10Soupçon 7asitstart / arete / overhangFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 24 photos ] sitstart of red n°5, underneath the blue path, 15m past Les Tétines. NB : the opening method used a 2m traverse at the end of the overhang, but the exit via a mantle has become classical.
11Cuicuishovsky 7a (6c+)slopers / sitstartMarc Lehner
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 photos ] on the left face of the boulder of Soupçon (red n°5). Sitstart with the evident jug as for Cuicuishkaniev, but exit via the slopers on the right.
11bCuicuishkaniev 7a+ (7a)slopers / mantle / sitstartMarc Lehner
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the left face of the boulder of Soupçon (red n°5). Sitstart with the big jug as for Cuicuishovsky, but exit directly by a mantle.
12K2 4pillar / expo-
former red n°4. Lichenous and expo...
13Insomnie 6cslightly overhanging / slopersPepito
***** to the left of red n°7.
14Insomnie assis 7bslightly overhanging / slopers / sitstartSébastien Frigault
***** sitstart of Insomnie to the left of red n°7.
14bInsolence 7coverhang / traverse fltrSébastien Frigault
*****  [ 4 photos ] sitstart to the left and exit in red n°7.
15Les Tétines 7b (7b+)overhang / sitstartVincent Cantrelle
***** sitstart just right of blue n°19, on the boulder to the right of red n°8. Update (October 2007) : broken hold; seems still possible but no longer 7a+...
16Aventure 7atraverse frtlFrancis Hélias
 [ 2 photos ] on a boulder above Les Tétines (there and back is 7b).
17Shore Break 6c (7a)traverse frtl / pockets / sitstartFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 2 photos ] traverse on two faces of a boulder near blue n°24. Sitstart, traverse along a boulder on the ground at the angle and exit at the top of the big face just before the arete. There and back is 7b.
18Armoire et Merki 7aslightly overhanging / sitstartBruno Lazzerini
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the backside of blue n°14, on a small boulder above blue n°15. Sitstart with a big undercling left hand and exit on slopers.
19Innocence 7c+roof / arete / sitstartVincent Cantrelle
 [ 1 photo ] fingery problem in the roof to the left of n°21 rouge. Sitstart just left of Éveil and exit by the round arete.
20Éveil 7a+wall / crimps / sitstartVincent Cantrelle
*****  [ 1 photo ] right problem in the roof to the left of red n°21; sitstart to the right of Innocence and exit in the wall using crimps. NB : 7b with a sitstart to the right of the overhang and 7b+ with a sitstart from the ground as for Innocence.
21Balthus 4+--
former red n°26, on a boulder to the left of the actual red n°21.
22Rababoum 7aarete / slopersRémi Perinet / Gérald Coste
*****  [ 6 photos ] evident arete 20m underneath Oasis and blue n°30.
22bRababoum assis 7a+arete / slopers / sitstartGérald Coste
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 21 photos ] 20m underneath Oasis and blue n°30. Sitstart in the right face with the two hands in a big hold, pass on the left face and exit by the arete of Rababoum.
22cSt Mathurin 5-arete / crack / expo-
former red n°15, on the right side of the arete of Rababoum.
23L'Œil du Manouche 4+--
former red n°27, on the left side of Oasis, 10m to the left of blue n°30.
24Oasis 7b+ (7b)slightly overhanging / slopersFrank Scherrer / Stéphan Denys
*****  [ 3 videos ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 12 photos ] 10m to the left of blue n°30, to the right of L'Œil du Manouche (former red n°27). Standing start, take a sloper right hand and exit by a dynamic move.
24bOasis assis 7b+slightly overhanging / high / sitstart-
***** 10m to the left of blue n°30, to the right of L'Œil du Manouche (former red n°27). Sitstart slightly left with a crack and exit in Oasis.
25L'As de Cœur 4arete-
***** former red n°14, above red n°9.
26Morphomaniacs 7b+dyno / slopersKees Mak
*****  [ 5 photos ] in front of blue n°34. Jumpstart to a sloper, and finish without the left arete.
27Maniacs 7croof / slopersYano Salaün
*****  [ 7 photos ] in front of blue n°34. Crouching start to the right of the roof with an undercling left hand and a jug right hand, and exit as for Morphomaniacs, or with the left arete as for Italian Chicka's. It is also possible to make a sitstart under the prow with a pinch right hand and a humid bowl left hand (same difficulty). NB : this was the project n°8 in the first edition of the topo "7+8".
27bItalian Chicka's 7adyno / slopersRuud Bruin
***** in front of blue n°34. Jumpstart to the left arete and finish with the sloper of Morphomaniacs.
29Vache à Lait 4+--
former red n°12, to the right of blue n°35.
30L'Arrache-Prise 6croof / mantle / sitstartLoïc de Saint Etienne / Guillaume Joubert
 [ 6 photos ] 40m underneath and to the right of Morphomaniacs. Sitstart and exit in the roof via a mantle, without using the boulder on the left.
31Oxbow 7c+ (7c)roofFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 3 photos ] roof with big holds above the blue path just after Cornemuse.
32Genesis 8a+slightly overhanging / sitstartLucas Ménégatti
***** along the blue path, 30m after the start of the red circuit, towards the traverse of Cornemuse. Sitstart without crash-pad with the two hands to the right of the overhanging prow, climb that one and exit above.
33Quiksilver 7atraverse frtl / sitstartFrancis Hélias
 [ 2 photos ] low traverse underneath the blue path on a boulder with sandy holds 10m underneath Cornemuse and the blue path, 40m after the start of the red circuit.
34Chant de Bataille 5---
former red n°9, on the right face of the boulder of Quiksilver, underneath the blue path, 40m past the start of the red circuit.
35Le Razoir 7a (6c)traverse fltr / crimps / mantleTony Fouchereau
*****  [ 3 photos ] on the boulder just left of Cornemuse, along the blue path, 60m after the start of the red circuit, towards the plateau. Sitstart, low traverse in a large horizontal crack and exit by a mantle just before the angle.
36Cornemuse 7atraverse fltrFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] to the left of the blue path 60m past the start of the red circuit. Start in the corridor, to the left of the red arrow of L'Âge des Cavernes (former red n°8), low traverse to the right and exit after the angle.
36bL'Âge des Cavernes 5+traverse fltr / crack-
former red n°8, above the blue path, in the cave just left of the start of Cornemuse. Start at the back of the cave, traverse to the right and exit in a crack.
37L'Abandonnée 5+wall / highPepito / Philippe Berger
on the boulder just left of blue n°40.
38Go Climb Hard Rock 4--
former red n°10, on the backside of the boulder of Easy Roof, above the blue path, underneath blue n°40.
39Easy Roof 6croof / sitstart-
***** on the backside of the boulder, above the blue path, underneath blue n°40.
40Le Toucher du Grès 7bareteTony Fouchereau
 [ 9 photos ] above the blue path, 100m after the start of the red circuit, towards the plateau. Start to the right of vegetation, take a tridoigt right hand (morpho) and exit by dynamic moves.
41Le Parfum du Grès 7a (7b)wall / underclings / mantleGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
*****  [ 4 photos ] above the blue path, 100m after the start of the red circuit, towards the plateau. Start to the right of Le Toucher du Grès with a small undercling, take a tridoigt left hand and exit by a mantle. 7b for short climbers.
42King Louie 6b+arete / mantleGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
 [ 8 photos ] above the blue path, 100m after the start of the red circuit, towards the plateau. Climb the right of the wall and exit by a mantle without boulder on the right.
43Shere Khan 7b (7b+)prow / wallGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 12 photos ] above the blue path, 100m after the start of the red circuit, towards the plateau. Start as for Kaa, but climb the prow on the right and exit by a mantle at its top.
43bKaa 6a+wallGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
 [ 3 photos ] above the blue path, 100m after the start of the red circuit, towards the plateau. Start as for Shere Khan but climb the wall directly and exit by a mantle.
44L'Hymne à Laya 7a (6c)traverse frtl / sitstartFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 2 photos ] short 4m traverse along the blue path, towards the plateau. There and back is 7a.
45Jet Set 7b+slightly overhanging / sitstart / dynoFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 2 photos ] underneath the blue path. Sitstart and exit without the jug on the right by convention.
45bJet Set biscuit 7aslightly overhanging / sitstart / dyno-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] non-eliminating version of Jet Set, underneath the blue path. Sitstart and exit with the right jug.
46Happy to be Alive 6c+ (7a)traverse frtl / crimps / sitstartFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 8 photos ] on the boulder to the right of Jet Set, the blue path, towards the plateau. Sitstart, low traverse and exit on the left of the wall (there and back is 7b).
47Horizon Perdu 7atraverse frtl / sitstartFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 2 photos ] traverse on two faces on a boulder located slightly underneath the plateau with the GR, completely to the East of the sector. Sitstart in an overhang, traverse to the left with good holds, pass a round angle, continue in a second face, pass the prow with low holds and exit at the end of the third face.
48Trou Noir 6boverhangHélias Millerioux / François Louvel
on the plateau, to the North-East of the summit of the hill, slightly left to the GR and to the opposite of Odyssée.
49Odyssée 7cslightly overhanging / crimps / sitstartFrancis Hélias
 [ 1 photo ] fingery problem with a low sitstart on a boulder with a characteristic jug, along the GR, 100m past the crossing with the blue path. Sitstart, climb the overhang and exit in the wall on crimps.
50Asics 7broofFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 3 photos ] low roof near the summit of the plateau, 50m to the right of the blue path after a characteristic corridor between two boulders. Sitstart completely at the back of the roof and exit slightly right on pockets. NB : the evident painful bidoigt can be avoided and a 8a there and back has been realized.
51Irréversible 7cprow / highJulien Nadiras
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 7 photos ] evident prow along the GR, just after red n°24.
52Petit Sablé 7aslightly overhanging / mantle / sitstartLoïc de Saint Etienne
*****  [ 2 photos ] 20m to the left of Irréversible, in a corridor along the blue path, near the character "K". Sitstart, climb the overhang and exit via a mantle.
53La Rancune 5---
***** on the boulder to the North of the end of the red circuit n°3.
54Merci Qui? 6carete / expoPascal Etienne
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of red n°34.
55Ange 6bslab / highPascal Etienne / Pepito
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the left of red n°33.
56Distinction 5crackFrançois Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
to the right of Dimension Sociale, on the backside of the boulder with Ange.
57Dimension Sociale 6b+pillarFrançois Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
 [ 1 photo ] right pillar on the backside of the boulder with Ange.
57bIllusion 6b+pillar-
right variant of Dimension Sociale, on the backside of the boulder with Ange.
58Le Roi de la Forêt 6apillar-
 [ 1 photo ] left pillar on the backside of the boulder with Ange.
59Démon 6cpillar / topropePascal Etienne
 [ 2 photos ] high pillar on the face to the right of Les Infortunes du Cœur (red n°32).
60- 6ahighFrançois Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] in the center of the face to the right of Les Infortunes du Cœur (red n°34).
61Décision 7a+ (7a)sitstart / arete / overhangFrancis Hélias
***** in the North part of the area, underneath the end of the red circuit.
62Pigeon Vole 7adynoJean Delbecq / Maxime Prodhomme
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 photos ] on the boulder to the opposite of Baloo . Start with vertical holds, dyno to the right and exit via a mantle.
62bPigeon Vole en Traversée 7atraverse fltr / wall / dynoTony Fouchereau
***** on the boulder to the opposite of Baloo . Sitstart on the left of the boulder, traverse to the right and exit in Pigeon Vole.
63Baloo 7boverhang / sitstartSébastien Frigault
*****  [ 3 videos ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 25 photos ] right problem in a 30% overhang underneath Irréversible, in the middle of the slope of the North part of the sector. Sitstart, take a pinch left hand and dyno to the top.
63bHathi 6b+dyno / sitstartViktor Magnusson
***** 2m to the right of Baloo. Dyno from a good pocket and a side pull; morpho.
64Mowgli 7b+ (7c)sitstart / overhang / slopersFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] central problem in a 30% overhang underneath Irréversible, in the middle of the slope of the North part of the sector.
65Bagheera 7csitstart / wall / slopersFrancis Hélias
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 11 photos ] left problem in a 30% overhang underneath Irréversible, in the middle of the slope of the North part of the sector. Climb the overhang to the right and exit with slopers.
66Apophis 7b (7a+)roof / pockets / prowFrançois Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
*****  [ 3 photos ] to the left of a small valley between La Dame Jouanne and Maunoury. Start with a ledge, traverse under the roof with jugs and exit to the right of the prow. Access : from La Grenouillère, go ahead in the valley above the steps, let Baloo on your right and turn left in the middle of the slope.
66bApocryphe 7c (7c+)roof / pockets / prowFrançois Louvel
*****  [ 1 photo ] left exit of Apophis, to the left of a small valley between La Dame Jouanne and Maunoury. Start with a ledge, traverse under the roof with jugs, pass the pillar and exit by the wall on the left. Access : from La Grenouillère, go ahead in the valley above the steps, let Baloo on your right and turn left in the middle of the slope.
67Apostrophe 5+crackFrançois Louvel / Hélias Millerioux
dihedral to the left of Apophis, the left of a small valley between La Dame Jouanne and Maunoury. Access : from La Grenouillère, go ahead in the valley above the steps, let Baloo on your right and turn left in the middle of the slope.
68Apologue 6a+slightly overhangingFrançois Louvel
to the left of of the dihedral of Apostrophe, to the left of a small valley between La Dame Jouanne and Maunoury. Access : from La Grenouillère, go ahead in the valley above the steps, let Baloo on your right and turn left in the middle of the slope.

 

Outside the topo

Waimea 7aarete / slopers / sitstartGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
***** of a boulder near blue n°24. Sitstart to the left of the exit of Shore Break, climb the arete without touching the small boulder on the ground and exit at the top.
Shore Break prolongé 7a (7a+)traverse frtl / arete / pocketsGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
***** traverse on two faces of a boulder near blue n°24. Sitstart, traverse along a boulder on the ground at the angle as for Shore Break, join the left arete with low holds and exit in that one as for Waimea.
La Traversée de Baloo 7b+ (7c)traverse frtl / slightly overhangingTony Fouchereau
*****  [ 3 photos ] in a 30% overhang underneath Irréversible, in the middle of the slope of the North part of the sector. Sitstart to the right of the boulder, traverse for 4m up to the start of Baloo and exit in that one.
Typhon 8aroofFrancis Hélias
no more possible since a hold broke off (no more information about this problem).
Le Surplomb du Cuveton direct 6bdyno / crimps-
start to the left with small crimps (both feet on the boulder), dyno to the good left hold of blue n°9 and finish in that one.
Kut de Crêpe 7apillar / sitstart-
***** on the boulder of Le Vase de Sèvres (end of the red circuit), at the North of the sector. Sitstart to the left, climb the pillar without using the big gully and exit in red n°36. NB : first known realization by Stefan Warsink.
Funny Boy 6b (6c)wall / sitstartDavid Evrard
on the right side of a big boulder 20m past Horizon Perdu, on the plateau, underneath the GR, completely to the East of the sector. Sitstart with the right arete, take a large horizontal crack and exit above.
Zygos 7aslightly overhanging / mantleTheo K.
***** on the boulder to the opposite of blue n°9. Start with a sidepull right hand and finish left by a mantle using the arete and a good hold in the slab above.
Théomiel 8a+roof / sitstartAntoine Vandeputte
***** in the roof to the right of red n°7 and red n°8. Sitstart with a pinch right hand on the arete and a diagonal crimp in the roof and exit in that one.
Pars Pro Toto gauche 7bprow / slightly overhanging / sitstartTony Fouchereau
overhanging prow on the boulder after Movement Activated and red n°11, 10m to the left of Retrouvaille au Paradis. Sitstart on the left with two round horizontal holds, climb the arete and exit on the right as for Pars Pro Toto.
Pars Pro Toto 7cprow / slightly overhanging / slopersTheo K.
***** overhanging prow on the boulder after Movement Activated and red n°11, 10m to the left of Retrouvaille au Paradis. Crouching start with right hand in the crack and left hand on the crimp in the overhang, make a toe hook left and finish directly via the slopers on the prow.
La Trottinette 6awall / sitstartTheo K.
10m to the opposite of Full Monty (red n°19). Sitstart with the left hand on a crimp, the left foot in the pocket and the right hand on the undercling near that one, climb the wall and finish slightly right.
Adios Nonino 7c (7c+)arete / slopersManuel Marquès
evident arete between the exits of Apocryphe and Apophis, to the left of a small valley between La Dame Jouanne and Maunoury. Access : from La Grenouillère, go ahead in the valley above the steps, let Baloo on your right and turn left in the middle of the slope.
Sanseveria 7aprow / slightly overhanging / sitstart-
***** evident prow in the middle of the traverse of Horizon Perdu, on a boulder located slightly underneath the plateau with the GR, completely to the East of the sector. Sitstart, climb the prow and exit to the left of the arete.
Tropico 6a (6b)arete / mantle / sitstartSébastien Herbst
on a boulder between Morphomaniacs and Rababoum. Sitstart on a small boulder with ethe arete right hand and exit by a mantle on the lip..
El Rodeno 7bslightly overhanging / sitstartFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on the boulder of blue n°27, in between Waimea and Rababoum, just above and to the left of Les Tétines. Sitstart with big holds and exit directly on slopers.

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