Bleau.info : Maunoury : Topo

thanks to Pepito

In the village of Larchant, take a road to the North for 2km (follow the arrows "Dame Jouanne"), turn right and park at the inn of Le Chalet Jobert. Take the path for 300m, turn left and then right after the boulder of black n°W. The boulders can be found a little further, in the southside of the sector.

1Gin Tonic 5+prow / crackPhilippe Berger / Pepito
 [ 1 photo ] red 1 |
2Coin Tranquille 5-aretePhilippe Berger / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 2 |
3Monsieur Camembert 5+slab / crimpsPhilippe Berger / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 3 |
4Hard Pop-Corn 6aoverhangPhilippe Berger / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 4 |
5Soupçon debout 5+prowPhilippe Berger / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 5 | standing start of Soupçon.
6L'Enchifrenée 5+wallPhilippe Berger
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 6 |
7Trou du Bide 5+wall / pocketsPhilippe Berger / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 7 |
8À bout de Souffle 6awall / pocketsPhilippe Berger
***** red 8 |
9Le Secret de la Licorne 6bwall / expoPepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 9 |
10La Petitesse 6b--
***** red 10 |
11Envergure 6acrack-
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 11 |
12Boule de Gomme 5--Pascal Etienne / Pepito
***** red 12 |
13Avantage 5-Philippe Berger
red 13 |
14La Traversée du Jardin 6btraverse frtlPhilippe Berger
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 14 |
15Discorde 5+aretePepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 15 |
16Le Jardin Suspendu 5+slightly overhangingPhilippe Berger
*****  [ 2 photos ] red 16 |
17Rêves 5+slab / crimpsPhilippe Berger / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 17 |
18L'Ellipse 6bslab-
***** red 18 | direct slab is 5c.
19Full Monty 6bslightly overhanging-
***** red 19 |
20Pierre à Savon 6b-Pepito
***** red 20 |
21Freak's 5wall / slabPhilippe Berger
*****  [ 2 photos ] red 21 |
22Tour d'Ivoire 6aaretePhilippe Berger / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 22 |
23Le Banquet des Héros 6b+wall / dynoPepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 23 |
24La Porte du Paradis 5arete / pocketsPhilippe Berger
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 24 |
25Coup de Chaleur 5expoPhilippe Berger / Pepito
red 25 |
26Fou du Roi 5--Philippe Berger
***** red 26 |
27Falaise 5-Pepito
red 27 |
28Partie de Plaisir 5+wall / expoPhilippe Berger / Pepito
red 28 |
29Le Pédiluve 5-Philippe Berger
red 29 |
30Le Pilier Sacré 5+pillarJ.P. Herbien / Pepito
red 30 |
31Flash Guimauve 5-Philippe Berger
red 31 |
32Les Infortunes du Cœur 6bwall / pillarPascal Etienne / Pepito
*****  [ 2 photos ] red 32 |
33Mirage 6awallPascal Etienne / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 33 |
34Face Nord 6bwall / underclingsPascal Etienne / Pepito
*****  [ 2 photos ] red 34 |
35La Dülf 6boverhang / crackPascal Etienne / Pepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] red 35 | eliminate.
36Le Vase de Sèvres 6apillarPascal Etienne / Pepito
*****  [ 2 photos ] red 36 |
aInsomnie 6cslightly overhanging / slopersPepito
***** to the left of red n°7.
bCrash Crack 5+crack / expoPepito / Philippe Berger
 [ 1 photo ] former red n°19, on the right face of blue n°12.
cVol au Vent 6cwall / sitstartPepito / Blokeur
*****  [ 2 photos ] just right of red n°29.
dDémon 6cpillar / topropePascal Etienne
 [ 2 photos ] high pillar on the face to the right of Les Infortunes du Cœur (red n°32).
e- 6ahighFrançois Louvel
 [ 1 photo ] in the center of the face to the right of Les Infortunes du Cœur (red n°34).
fAnge 6bslab / highPascal Etienne / Pepito
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the left of red n°33.
gMerci Qui? 6carete / expoPascal Etienne
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of red n°34.
iLa Rancune 5---
***** on the boulder to the North of the end of the red circuit n°3.
jL'Abandonnée 5+wall / highPepito / Philippe Berger
on the boulder just left of blue n°40.
kEasy Roof 6croof / sitstart-
***** on the backside of the boulder, above the blue path, underneath blue n°40.

 

Outside the topo

Waimea 7aarete / slopers / sitstartGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
***** of a boulder near blue n°24. Sitstart to the left of the exit of Shore Break, climb the arete without touching the small boulder on the ground and exit at the top.
Shore Break prolongé 7a (7a+)traverse frtl / arete / pocketsGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
***** traverse on two faces of a boulder near blue n°24. Sitstart, traverse along a boulder on the ground at the angle as for Shore Break, join the left arete with low holds and exit in that one as for Waimea.
La Traversée de Baloo 7b+ (7c)traverse frtl / slightly overhangingTony Fouchereau
*****  [ 3 photos ] in a 30% overhang underneath Irréversible, in the middle of the slope of the North part of the sector. Sitstart to the right of the boulder, traverse for 4m up to the start of Baloo and exit in that one.
Typhon 8aroofFrancis Hélias
no more possible since a hold broke off (no more information about this problem).
Le Surplomb du Cuveton direct 6bdyno / crimps-
start to the left with small crimps (both feet on the boulder), dyno to the good left hold of blue n°9 and finish in that one.
Kut de Crêpe 7apillar / sitstart-
***** on the boulder of Le Vase de Sèvres (end of the red circuit), at the North of the sector. Sitstart to the left, climb the pillar without using the big gully and exit in red n°36. NB : first known realization by Stefan Warsink.
Funny Boy 6b (6c)wall / sitstartDavid Evrard
on the right side of a big boulder 20m past Horizon Perdu, on the plateau, underneath the GR, completely to the East of the sector. Sitstart with the right arete, take a large horizontal crack and exit above.
Zygos 7aslightly overhanging / mantleTheo K.
***** on the boulder to the opposite of blue n°9. Start with a sidepull right hand and finish left by a mantle using the arete and a good hold in the slab above.
Théomiel 8a+roof / sitstartAntoine Vandeputte
***** in the roof to the right of red n°7 and red n°8. Sitstart with a pinch right hand on the arete and a diagonal crimp in the roof and exit in that one.
Pars Pro Toto gauche 7bprow / slightly overhanging / sitstartTony Fouchereau
overhanging prow on the boulder after Movement Activated and red n°11, 10m to the left of Retrouvaille au Paradis. Sitstart on the left with two round horizontal holds, climb the arete and exit on the right as for Pars Pro Toto.
Pars Pro Toto 7cprow / slightly overhanging / slopersTheo K.
***** overhanging prow on the boulder after Movement Activated and red n°11, 10m to the left of Retrouvaille au Paradis. Crouching start with right hand in the crack and left hand on the crimp in the overhang, make a toe hook left and finish directly via the slopers on the prow.
La Trottinette 6awall / sitstartTheo K.
10m to the opposite of Full Monty (red n°19). Sitstart with the left hand on a crimp, the left foot in the pocket and the right hand on the undercling near that one, climb the wall and finish slightly right.
Adios Nonino 7c (7c+)arete / slopersManuel Marquès
evident arete between the exits of Apocryphe and Apophis, to the left of a small valley between La Dame Jouanne and Maunoury. Access : from La Grenouillère, go ahead in the valley above the steps, let Baloo on your right and turn left in the middle of the slope.
Sanseveria 7aprow / slightly overhanging / sitstart-
***** evident prow in the middle of the traverse of Horizon Perdu, on a boulder located slightly underneath the plateau with the GR, completely to the East of the sector. Sitstart, climb the prow and exit to the left of the arete.
Tropico 6a (6b)arete / mantle / sitstartSébastien Herbst
on a boulder between Morphomaniacs and Rababoum. Sitstart on a small boulder with ethe arete right hand and exit by a mantle on the lip..
El Rodeno droite 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / traverse fltr / sitstartTony Fouchereau
on the boulder of blue n°27, in between Waimea and Rababoum, just above and to the left of Les Tétines. Sitstart as for El Rodeno, but traverse quickly to the right up to the start of blue n°27, without touching the boulder son the ground, and exit by that one.
El Rodeno 7bslightly overhanging / sitstartFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on the boulder of blue n°27, in between Waimea and Rababoum, just above and to the left of Les Tétines. Sitstart with big holds and exit directly on slopers.

© 1994-2013 bleau.info