Bleau.info : Rocher du Potala : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

from the parking lot of La Vallée de la Mée (le Vaudoué), follow Le Chemin de la Mée for 400m and turn right at Le Chemin de l'Avenir de Vaudoué. The start of the orange circuit AD+ n°2 can be found 200m further. For the start of the blue circuit, traverse to the left at a small path leading to the first boulders of the sector.


 

Circuit PD+ yellow (nº 4)

1 - 2--
*****  [ 1 photo ]
2 - 2+expo-
3 - 1--
4 - 2+--
5 - 2--
6 - 2expo-
7 - 1--
8 - 2--
9 - 2+--
10 - 2--
11 - 2--
12 - 2+--
13 - 2--
14 - 2--
15 - 2--
16 - 2--
17 - 3---
18 - 2+wall-
19 - 2--
20 - 2+--
21 - 1--
22 - 1--
23 - 3---
24 - 2--
25 - 1--
26 - 1--
27 - 1--
28 - 2--
29 - 2+--
30 - 2+--
31 - 2--
32 - 1--
33 - 3+--
34 - 3---
35 - 1wall-
36 - 2+crack-

 

Circuit AD+ orange (nº 2)

1 Le Klem 3--
*****
2 Le Rouleau Californien 4---
*****
3 - 4---
4 L'Équilibriste 3+--
5 Ventre Bleu 4---
*****  [ 1 photo ]
6 La Traversée des Confettis 3traverse-
7 L'Écartelée 2+--
8 La Vire à Bicyclette 2+--
9 L'Inexorable Reptation 3--
10 Le Baquet de Pierre 3+--
11 Le Crochet 4--
11 bis- 2+--
12 Le Pas de la Mule 2--
13 Le Feuillet Décollé 3+--
14 Le Pousse Pied 3+wall-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]
15 La Traversée du Poussin 4traverse frtl-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 2 photos ]
16 L'Accroupie 3---
*****
16 bis- 2+--
17 Les Petits Rognons 3--
*****
18 - 4--
*****
19 - 2+--
*****
20 La Patinoire 3---
*****
21 La Cheminée de l'Obèse 3-crack / chimney-
*****
22 - 3+--
*****  [ 1 photo ]
23 La Vire Tournante 4---
*****
24 Le Cervino 3--
*****
24 bisLe Cervino gauche 2+--
25 Les Pattes de Mouche 3--
*****
25 bis- 3---
*****
26 - 2+--
*****
27 - 3+--
*****
28 - 3--
*****  [ 3 photos ]
29 La Grande Dalle du Coutant 3-slab-
*****
29 bisLa Petite Dalle du Coutant 4-slab-
29 ter- 2--
30 La Traînée Blanche 2--
*****
31 - 2--
*****
32 Le Mauvais Angle 4--
33 L'Allonge de l'Escalier 3--
*****  [ 1 photo ]
34 Le Mauvais Pas 3+--
*****
35 Le Nouvel Angle 3+--
*****
36 La Fissure Humide 4-crack-
*****
36 bis- 4--
37 La Déviation 4---
*****  [ 1 photo ]
38 Les Deux Baignoires 4---
*****
38 bisLes Deux Baignoires gauche 4---
*****
39 La Bleausarde 2+--
*****
40 La Traversée des Tortues Jumelles 3traverse-

 

Circuit D blue (nº 1)

1 L'Orgueilleuse 4wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
2 La Fissure du Mirador 4+wall / crack-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
2 bis- 4traverse / overhang-
3 - 3+traverse fltr / wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
4 - 4-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
4 bis- 4wall / slopers-
*****
5 - 3+dyno-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
6 - 4slopers-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
7 - 5-wall-
*****
7 bisLa Traversée des Bons 5+traverse fltr-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
8 - 5-wall / crimps-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
9 - 4-slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
9 bis- 4slab / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
9 ter- 4+slab-
*****
9 quat- 3---
10 - 4slab-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
11 - 4-wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
12 - 4+wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
12 bisLa Récalcitrante 4+crack-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
13 - 4-traverse-
*****
14 - 4-slab-
*****
14 bis- 4-crack-
15 - 5-slopers-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
15 bis- 5---
16 - 3+wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
16 bisLa Dure à Cuire 5wall / underclings-
 [ 1 photo ]
17 - 3slab-
18 - 4-wall-
19 - 4slab-
 [ 1 photo ]
20 - 4wall / underclings-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
21 - 3crack / slopers-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
22 - 4-wall-
22 bis- 3+arete-
23 - 4wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
24 Le Faux Pas 4traverse fltr / wall-
 [ 1 photo ]
25 Facile et Beau 4-crack / slopers-
 [ 1 photo ]
26 Le Repoussoir 4-wall / slab-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
27 - 3---
*****
28 - 4+crimps-
29 - 4wall / mantle-
*****  [ 7 photos ]
30 La Spéléologie 4-overhang / expo-
*****  [ 10 photos ]
30 bisLa Spéléologie bas 5overhang / expo-
*****  [ 14 photos ] lowest start.
31 - 4--
*****  [ 1 photo ]
32 - 4-wall / dyno-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
32 bis- 5--
33 - 4-slopers-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
34 - 4-wall-
*****
35 La Remarquable 4+wall / slab-
*****
36 - 3+wall / slopers-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
37 - 3slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
38 La Fissure à Puck 4+ (5-)slightly overhanging / crack-
*****  [ 2 photos ]

 

Circuit TD+ red (nº 3)

1 - 5wall / slopers-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
2 - 5-slightly overhanging-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
3 - 5arete-
*****  [ 2 photos ] right side of the arete.
4 - 5+arete-
*****  [ 2 photos ] left side of the arete.
5 - 5+wall / crack-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
6 - 6aslightly overhanging / crack-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
7 - 5wall / arete-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
8 - 6awall-
*****  [ 4 photos ]
9 - 5wall / traverse frtl-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
10 - 5+wall / crack-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
11 Les Trois Lancers 5+arete-
*****  [ 7 photos ]
11 bis- 6awall-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
12 - 5+wall / bidoigt-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
13 Ulysse 5-arete-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
14 - 5wall-
*****  [ 7 photos ]
15 Mauvais Temps 6bslightly overhanging / dyno-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
15 bis- 5wall-
*****
16 - 5+wall / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
17 - 5+overhang-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
18 - 5+traverse fltr-
*****
19 La Voie Lactée 6bwall / crimps-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
20 - 5+wall-
*****  [ 4 photos ]
21 La Clé de Pied 5arete-
*****  [ 4 photos ]
22 La Contorsion 5wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
23 - 5slightly overhanging-
*****
24 Le Sablier 6aarete / crimps-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
24 bisLe Tranchant 6a (6c)wall / crimps-
*****  [ 3 photos ] to the left of red n°24; slightly morpho.
25 Le Mur Jaune 5wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
26 - 5+wall-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
27 - 5wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
28 - 5+wall-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
28 bisMiroir Brisé 6a+wall / crimps-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
29 - 5+slightly overhanging / crimps-
 [ 1 photo ]
29 bis- 6awall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder facing red n°30.
30 La Jalousie 6bcrack-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
31 - 5+slightly overhanging / crack-
 [ 7 photos ]
32 - 6aslab-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
33 - 5-underclings / slopers-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ]
34 Le Toit du Châtaignier 5-roof / mantle-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ]
35 - 5+wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
36 - 5-overhang-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
37 - 5+wall / crimps-
*****
37 bis- 6atraverse frtl-
*****
38 Hueco 5+wall-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
39 - 5arete-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
40 - 5slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
41 - 5+wall / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
42 - 5-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
42 bisLes Rasoirs 5+wall / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
43 La Fissure de Marbre 5crack-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
44 Corner 5-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
44 bis- 5wall-
*****
45 Les Petits Pieds 5+traverse frtl-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
46 - 5wall-
*****  [ 3 photos ]
46 bis- 6bwall-
*****  [ 1 photo ]
47 - 5arete / slab-
*****  [ 2 photos ]
48 L'Angle des Tortues Jumelles 6aarete-
*****  [ 2 photos ]

 

Outside the circuits

1Levure 6a+sitstart / slightly overhangingBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart of red n°2.
2Les Feux de la Rampe 6b (6c)traverse fltrPepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] start completely left, traverse to the right and exit in red n°7.
3La Porte du Temps 7a+wall / crimps / areteBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 7 photos ] on the left of the boulder of red n°6. Sitstart with two crimps (lower than those of the first image) and exit via the arete without using the undercling on its left.
4Icare 7a+wall / crimps / mantleBernard Théret
*****  [ 6 photos ] in between red n°6 and red n°7.
5A7 6btraverse frtl-
*****  [ 1 photo ] start in red n°7 and exit in red n°6.
6Poil à Gratter 5wallBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] in between red n°7 and the crack.
7Le Petit Toit Ocre 6aroofBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] small boulder behind red n°7. Start in the overhang, traverse left with the horizontal crack and exit directly.
7bLe Petit Toit Ocre direct 6c+roof / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 5 photos ] small boulder behind red n°7; start in overhang and exit directly.
8Passe-Muraille 6b+ (6c)traverse frtl / slopers-
 [ 1 photo ] on the boulder just above Petit Toit Ocre. Start at an angle in a narrow corridor and traverse to the left on slopers.
9Pente Douce 6a+wallBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] between a crack and the arete to the left of De Marbre, on the boulder to the opposite of red n°6 and red n°7.
10De Marbre 5+ (6a)wallBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] 1m to the right of the arete to the opposite of the boulder with red n°5 and red n°6.
11Ma Campagne 6b+roof / wall / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] on the boulder with an old bivouac. Sitstart in the roof with an undercling and exit via an ascending traverse to the right.
12La Vieille 6btraverse fltrBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] start around the corner, low traverse with a horizontal crack and exit in red n°8.
13La Farissure 5+wall-
***** 1m50 to the left of red n°8.
14L'Enclume 6b+traverse fltr / slopersBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] start at the angle to the left of red n°9, low traverse and exit in red n°9.
15Le Héron 6awall-
***** 1m50 to the right of red n°8.
16Levant 6a+roofBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] start at the bottom of the small roof right of red n°9, take arete with right hand and exit by a mantle over right face.
17Sauce Piquante 6bwall / crimps / sitstart-
 [ 3 photos ] to the right of yellow n°18, on the right face of the boulder of red n°9. Sitstart at a small crack and exit in the crimpsy wall to the right of the yellow problem.
18Le Pote Âge 7btraverse fltr / slopers-
*****  [ 2 photos ] traverse on two faces on the boulder to the left of Éclipse. Start near the tree, traverse on slopers, pass the round angle and exit at the wall of Distorsion.
19Distorsion 6b (6b+)wall / arete / underclings-
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the boulder of the left of Éclipse. Start right hand at the angle and with an undercling left hand.
20La Charnière 6a+areteBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the boulder above Éclipse. Start with a crimp left hand and right hand on the arete.
20La Charnière assis 6b+arete / sitstartBernard Théret
***** sitstart of La Charnière, on the boulder behind Éclipse.
21Sur le Fil 5slabBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the left of la Charnière.
22Éclipse 7atraverse fltr / slopersBernard Théret
*****  [ 4 photos ] on the boulder 10m to the left and behind red n°10. Start to the left, traverse to the right on slopers via a crack and exit by the arete of the second face to the right (20 moves). NB : the opener's method used no foothook.
22bÉclipse Totale 7a+traverseBernard Théret
***** Éclipse there and back.
23ABS 6b (6b+)arete / slab-
on the left face of red n°10, with the arete right hand.
24Rotary Roc 6carete-
arete left hand just left of red n°10.
25Le Bengalibre 6a+ (6b)wall / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart of red n°11.
26L'Ex Temps Sur 6bwall / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart in red n°11 and exit in red n°11 bis.
26bLe Craméléon 6b+wall / sitstartBernard Théret
***** sitstart in red n°11 and exit in red n°12.
27n°13 rouge assis 6b (6b+)arete / sitstart-
sitstart of red n°13.
28La Jonction 6b+ (6c)traverse fltrBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] start to the right of red n°14 and exit in red n°13.
29Transfiguration 7b+ (7c)traverse fltr / wallBernard Théret
***** start just before red n°15 bis and exit in red n°15.
30Hors Âge 4+slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder before and the right of the start of the blue circuit.
31Ferrite 5+arete-
*****  [ 1 photo ] arete left of red n°16.
32La Douce 4+ (5-)slabBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] 1m50 to the left of red n°16.
33Heureux qui comme Ulysse 6b+ (6c)traverse frtl / arete-
 [ 1 photo ] start in red n°16 and exit in the arete to the left of this one.
34Les Inversées 6btraverse frtl-
*****  [ 1 photo ] red n°17, starting low to the right.
35Samarkand 7a+ (7a)sitstart / roofBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] sitstart to the right of red n°17 under the roof, exit in a slightly overhanging wall via a sloper (or with a crimp left hand for an eliminate 7b+ version).
35bSamarkand rallongé 7b+overhang / slopers / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart to the right of red n°17, climb the roof up to the slopers as for Samarkand, traverse with the bidoigts of red n°17 (but without its top holds) and exit to the left of that one.
36L'Auriculaire 6bwall / bidoigt / sitstart-
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the backside of the boulder of red n°18. Sitstart, take a bidoigt and exit directly (slightly morpho).
37Sur Prises 5+slabBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of La Voie Lactée (red n°19).
38Bonne Patte 6bwall / crimps-
***** 1m to the right of La Voie Laquée (red n°19). Start with a crimp left hand and exit directly.
39La Tortue 6btraverse fltr-
*****  [ 3 photos ] low traverse of blue n°7 bis.
39bExtravagance 7atraverse fltr / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ] start in blu n°7 bis, low traverse as for La Tortue, continue without the top holds and exit just before the angle of Accroche toi Tonton Yves.
40Accoche toi Tonton Yves 6barete / slopers / sitstartChristian Roïk
on the backside of the boulder with blue n)7 bis. Sitstart at the angle with a crimp right hand and an undercling left hand and exit to the right on slopers.
41L'Œuf Dur 6a+ (6b)-Bernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] at the extreme left on the boulder of red n°20.
42L'Effacement 6b+traverse frtl / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart behind the tree 2m to the right of red n°21 and exit in this one.
42bLa Dynamique des Plats 6cwall / slopers / sitstartAugustin Rogeaux
 [ 1 photo ] just right of La Clé de Pied (red n°21). Sitstart with a good oblique hold, take a ledge of slopers and exit to the right of the arete, using a pinch right hand.
43La Clé des Champs 5+wall-
to the left of blue n°10, on the boulder of red n°21.
44- 5 (5+)wall-
just right of blue n°10.
45Amazonie 6a+sitstart / wallBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] on a boulder to the North of blue n°11. Sitstart with the two hands on a vertical hold and exit directly.
46Printemps d'Automne 6c+ (7a)arete / sitstartFrédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
*****  [ 2 photos ] sitstart under the arete to the right of blue n°11 as for L'Été Indien assis and exit slightly right of this one.
46bL'Été Indien 6barete / slabBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] start at the arete to the right of blue n°11 and exit via the slab on the left.
46b'L'Été Indien assis 6c+arete / slab / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] sitstart under the arete to the right of blue n°11 as for Printemps d'Automne and exit on the left via the slab.
47Crocodylus 6a (6a+)wall-
 [ 1 photo ] on the left face of blue n°11.
48Détour Oblique (1) 6a+ (6b)traverse fltrBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of blue n°12 bis. Start left with slopers, traverse to the right and exit straight taking big the hold with right hand.
48bDétour Oblique (2) 5+traverse fltrBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] start at the arete and exit in blue n°12 bis.
49La Tête hors de l'Eau 5+ (6a)wallBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] start in the cave to the right of blue n°5 and exit in that problem.
50Via Inversa 6a+ (6b)traverse frtl / wall-
 [ 2 photos ] start in n°5 orange, traverse to the left and exit in blue n°15.
51Pierre Ponce 7cprow / slightly overhanging / expoElric Besnier
*****  [ 7 photos ] on the backside of the bouder of Le Mur Jaune (red n°25). Start to the left of the traverse of n°6 orange with the two hands on an undercling, climb the ledge on slopers and exit in the roof.
52Pointe Noire 6a+ (6b)arete / slightly overhanging / expo-
 [ 1 photo ] slightly overhanging angle to the right of Le Mur Jaune (red n°25).
52bVertige Oblige 7b (7b+)traverse fltr / crimpsJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 2 photos ] complete traverse of the wall from red n°26 red to red n°28.
53- 5+wall-
***** just left of red n°26.
54Rapprochement 6a+ (6b)-Bernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] in between blue n°16 bis and red n°28 bis. Do not use the hold to the upper right (otherwise 5b).
55La Traversée de l'Afrique 6c+traverse frtl / wall / crimps-
start in red n°28, low traverse in the crimpsy wall and exit as for Rapprochement.
56- 5+ (6a)slightly overhanging / mantle-
 [ 1 photo ] on the boulder to the right of red n°28. Start with the ledge and exit via a mantle.
57n°29 en départ assis 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart-
sitstart to the right under the roof and exit in red n°29.
57bL'Étrange Arête 7c+wall / slopers / sitstart-
sitstart to the right under the roof at the arete between red n°30 and red n°29 and climb that one directly without using the crack of red n°30.
57cÉtrange Étrave 7b+sitstart / roofDidier Gérardin
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 6 photos ] sitstart under red n°30 and exit beween the crack and the arete.
57dLa Ligamos 7c+traverse frtl / areteManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart at the right angle, low traverse in the roof under red n°30 and exit on the left face of the arete above a small boulder without using the crack of red n°31.
58n°30 rouge assis 7c (7c+)sitstart / roof / crackFred Nicole
***** sitstart of the crack of red n°30.
59Razoirbaque 7asitstart / roof / crimpsBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart of red n°31.
59bLes Mystères du Schpountz 8atraverse fltr / roofChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 3 photos ] sitstart in red n°31, traverse to the right and exit to the right of Étrange Étrave, with ethe arete left hand. NB : a 7c+/7c exit in Étrange Étrave, between the crack and the arete, is also possible.
59b'Les Mystères du Schpountz raccourci 7c+ (7c)traverse fltr / roof-
***** sitstart in red n°31, traverse to the right and exit in Étrange Étrave.
59cLes Mystères du Schpountz rallongé 8a+ (8b)roof / traverseManuel Marquès
sitstart to the right under Étrange Étrave, low traverse to the left to the start of Les Mystères du Schpountz, traverse with the upper ledge and exit to the right of the arete, either with the crimp of red n°29 (8a+), or without (8b).
60Le Simple 5+slabBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] to the left of red n°31.
61Le Toit du Châtaignier droite 6aroof / mantle-
 [ 1 photo ] 2m to the right of Le Toit du Châtaignier (red n°34). Start at the beginning of orange n°16 and exit directly in the overhang.
62Sous-Pente 5+ (6a)slightly overhanging / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] underneath red n°35 and the 25 Bosses path.
63Vie Sauvage 6cslightly overhanging / monos / sitstart-
***** on the small face to the right of Servitude Volontaire and orange n°22. Start with two hands on a crimp and take a monodoigt.
64Servitude Volontaire 7ctraverse fltr-
 [ 2 photos ] traverse from orange n°22 to the right arete.
65Les Doigts dans le Nez 7a (7a+)wall / dyno-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 photos ] to the left of red n°35. Start left hand with a small crack and dyno to a pocket.
66Porte Ouverte 6a+ (6b)arete / wall-
 [ 2 photos ] to the left of Les Doigts dans le Nez, on the boulder of red n°35.
67Œuf au Plat 6ctraverse frtl / slopers / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] on the boulder to the left of red n°35. Sitstart to the right with two hands on the ledge, traverse on slopers and exit at the good holds.
68Dos d'Âne 7a+ (7b)traverse / slopers-
on the backside of the boulder to the left of red n°35. Start at the middle of the face, traverse on slopers, pass under the boulder at the angle, go up in La Roche qui Tourne, traverse to the right, pass the angle, continue on slopers and exit just before the starting point.
69La Roche qui Tourne 6aslightly overhanging / sitstart-
*****  [ 2 photos ] sitstart to the right of La Patinoire (orange n°20), on the backside of the boulder to the left of red n°35.
70Mauvaise Sieste 6aslightly overhanging / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart of the belly to the right of red n°36.
71Lhassa 6c+slightly overhangingBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the right of the corridor, to the opposite of La Spéléologie (blue n°30). Start with the two hand inn an oblique crack.
72Pénombre 6a+ (6b)roof / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart of the small roof on the left of the boulder above the path, just before red n°37.
72bLa Traversée de Pénombre 6broof / traverse frtl / sitstart-
above the 25 Bosses path, just before red n°37. Sitstart to the right under the small roof, traverse to the left and exit as for Pénombre.
73La Vieille Proue 5+prow / traverse frtl / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] small characteristic prow with an old blue arrow, above the 25 Bosses path, just before red n°37. Sitstart to the right and climb the prow on slopers.
74Prophétie 7a+traverse fltr-
*****  [ 5 photos ] reverse traverse of Le Prolonge, on the boulder of red n°37. Start before the arete and finish completely to the right of the corridor. NB : a prolongation under the small overhang and exiting at the yellow downclimbing arrow has recently be brushed (June 2007).
75La Variante Peinte 6b+traverse frtl / wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder of red n°37. Start in the corridor as for Le Prolonge and exit to the top by following the painted markings.
75bLa Prolonge 7atraverse frtlBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] reverse traverse of Prophétie, on the boulder of red n°37. Start completely to the right in the corridor, follow a red variant and exit after the arete.
76Renversement 5+ (6a)wall / slightly overhanging / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the boulder of red n°37.
77Séisme 7a (7a+)traverse frtlBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] on the boulder with red n°38. Start with a bidoigt right hand and a crimp left hand, traverse and exit in red n°38. Update (February 2009) : the flake at the beginning of the traverse has become fragile.
77bLa Tektonik 7a (7a+)traverseBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] start in Séisme, go down in red n°38 and exit in Tête en l'Air. Update (February 2009) : the flake at the beginning of the traverse has become fragile.
78C'est mieux qu'à Hueco 6bsitstart-
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart of red n°38.
78bTête en l'Air 6b (6c)sitstart / traverse fltrBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart in red n°38, traverse 2m to the right and exit over slopers. 6c eliminate without the horizontal hold 30cm under the top.
79Q4 6c (6c+)wall-
 [ 1 photo ] to the right of red n°39. Start with a small undercling right hand.
80Chemin de Croix 7b+traverse frtlBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart in red n°39, traverse to the left on two faces and exit via the roof with pockets.
81La Poussière qui Tue 6c+ (7a)traverse fltr / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 5 photos ] sitstart in the roof to the left of blue n°31 and exit with the right of the large hole (exit of Chemin de Croix).
81bRéagir ou s'Endormir 7atraverse fltrBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] down climb the roof to the left of blue n°31 using large holds, traverse to the right and exit by blue n°31.
82Servir ou Asservir 7atraverse frtlJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 photo ] start in blue n°31 and finish at the left of the roof.
82bAsservir ou Servir 7btraverse fltr-
*****  [ 3 photos ] start completely to the left in the roof, pass the angle, low traverse to the right in the slab of blue n°31 and exit via the angle of red n°39.
83La Rambala 6b (6b+)wall / slopers / sitstartBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] 30m above the boulder of red n°40. Sitstart under the angle, climb the wall on slopers and exit on the right in the slab.
84La Fin du Beau Monde 7b (7b+)traverse frtl / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder of La Fissure de Marbre (red n°43). Start in orange n°37, traverse to the left on crimps and exit in Les Rasoirs (red n°42 bis).
85Le Biface 5+ (6a)areteBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of red n°42.
86La Cachette 6a+ (6b)traverse fltr / wallBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] start to the left of blue n°33 and exit just to the right of this one.
87La Moule 6btraverse fltr-
*****  [ 2 photos ] start at the arete on the left and exit in blue n°32.
88- 4- (4)wall-
1m to the left of blue n°32.
90Rantanplan 6b+wallBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] in the middle of the wall at the right of red n°46 bis.
91Lame de Fond 7a+traverse fltrBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] low start to the left of red n°46, traverse to the right and exit with a vertical hold in the wall to the right of red n°46 bis and Rantanplan.
91bBaignade Interdite 7b+ (7c)traverse fltr / traverse frtlBernard Théret
start in Lame de Fond, but instead of exiting to the right of Rantanplan, come back and exit in red n°46.
92Dallage 4slabBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] straight-up at the start of Les Petits Pieds (red n°45).
93Le Relevage 6asitstart / crackBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] to the right of blue n°34.
94Le Ninja Volant 5slabBernard Théret
in between L'Angle des Tortues Jumelles (red n°48) and blue n°38.
94bLa Fissure à Puck assis 6b+slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart-
sitstart of blue n°38 (arrival of the blue circuit).
95La Traversée de la Mée 8a+overhang / traverse frtlAntoine Vandeputte
start in blue n°38, take a crimp 20cm above the broken hold of the ancienne version, cross the hands twice and exit completely left as before.
95bLe Surplomb de la Mée 8boverhangAntoine Vandeputte
start to the left of blue n°28 and exit far left. NB : the original method is no longer realizable since the large characteristic crimp of La Traversée de la Mée has broken off in April 2010.
95bLe Surplomb de la Mée assis 8a+ (8b)sitstart / overhangJulien Nadiras
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of blue n°38. Sitstart of Le Surplomb de la Mée.
95cLa Directe du Surplomb de la Mée 8a (8a+)overhang-
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of blue n°38; direct exit of Le Surplomb de la Mée.
95cLa Directe du Surplomb de la Mée assis 8boverhang / sitstartOlivier Lebreton
to the left of blue n°38. Sitstart to the left and exit in La Directe du Surplomb de la Mée.
96bLa Putain du Diable 7c (7c+)overhangManuel Marquès
*****  [ 1 photo ] start in blue n°38, exit to the left in La directe du Surplomb de la Mée. Mise à jour (avril 2010) : la voie est devenue un peu plus difficile depuis que la barrette caractéristique de La traversée de la Mée a cassé, mais la cotation d'origine (7c+) semble être conservée.
97La Dernière Marche 6b+ (6c)traverse frtl / slopers-
 [ 2 photos ] on the boulder just right of the 25 Bosses path, going down from the end of the red circuit. Back and there is 7a.
98Château Fort 7a+ (7b)traverse fltr / sitstartBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] above the Chemin des Béorlots, 150m after the end of the red circuit, going down in the slope. Sitstart, climb the wall and exit via an ascending traverse to the right.
99Sarco 4wall-
to the left of the thalweg, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué.
100Le Palais Blanc 6c (6c+)wall / sitstartBernard Théret
***** to the left of the thalweg, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué. Sitstart under the bowl and exit directly.
100bLe Palais Rouge 7awall / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of the thalweg, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué. Sitstart under the bowl as for Le Palais Blanc, but traverse on 1m50 and exit in the wall by a mantle with marbled crimps.
101Le Moine 6b+arete / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] to the left of the thalweg, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué. Sitstart of the angle to the right of Palais Blanc.
102Barbaboulle 6b+traverse fltr-
on the plateau, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué.
103La Casquette de Jockey 7a+traverse fltr / slopersBernard Théret
on the plateau, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué. La Bombe.
104La Bombe 7atraverse fltr / crack / sitstartBernard Théret
on the plateau, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué. Start to the left, traverse on slopers, pass the crack and exit in the face as for La Bombe.
105La Tribune 6awallBernard Théret
on the plateau, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué.
106Le Coin Tranquille 6awall / arete / sitstartBernard Théret
on the plateau, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué. Sitstart at the angle and exit slightly right in the face.
107Face Cachée 6a+wall / mantle / sitstartBernard Théret
on the plateau, following Le Chemin de l'Avenir du Vaudoué. Sitstart at the middle of the face and exit directly via a mantle.

 

Outside the topo

- 3-slab-
*****
- 4+crack-
***** crack with a blue triangle bleu to the opposite of blue n°8, in the exit face of Extravagance.

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