Bleau.info : Rocher de Milly : Topo

thanks to Thierry Guéguen & Arnaud Ceintre

Between Arbonne and Achères-la-Forêt, take on the left the road towards the monument to the memory of the Resistance fighters and park the car at the parking lot of Chanfroy (don't let anything in the cars!) Follow La Route de la Plaine de Chanfroy (which becomes La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau) for 2km. The circuits can be found on the slope and isolated boulders above La Route du Liteau.

1	Les Météores 7b	prow / expo	Frank Scherrer
on a big boulder 80m to the left of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy, by following the path starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau (2km from the parking lot); different variants are possible
2	Bon Œil 7a+ (7b)	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Thierry Guéguen
40m above Les Météores, by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau (prolongation of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy). Sitstart in the corridor to the right of Bon Pied and exit by a diagonal traverse.
3	Bon Pied 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
40m above Les Météores, by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau (prolongation of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy). Sitstart to the left of Bon Œil. Update (February 2009) : a little more difficult since the foot hold broke off.
4	Cold Turkey 6c	arete / sitstart	-
5m to the left of Bon Pied, 40m above Les Météores, by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly (prolongation of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy).
5	Petit Quelque Chose 5+	slab	Thierry Guéguen
right problem on a boulder above and to the left of Bon Pied and Bon Œil, 40m above Les Météores, by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
6	Grand Rien 5+	slab	Thierry Guéguen
left problem on a boulder above and to the left of Bon Pied and Bon Œil, 40m above Les Météores, by following a path on the left, starting 20m past the crossing with La Route du Liteau on La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
7	Exquise Esquisse 7c	sitstart / slightly overhanging / mantle	Thierry Guéguen / Kevin Lopata
in a little chaos, near the top of the sector Météores, 80m to the left of La Route de Milly (prolongation of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy), just after the crossing with La Route du Liteau (TMF), 2km from the parking lot of Chanfroy (Carrière des Fusillés).
8	Le Chevillard 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart / bidoigt	Kevin Lopata
50m above Exquise Esquisse, at the top of the sector Météores, in a little chaos, 130m to the left of La Route de Milly (prolongation of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy), just after the crossing with La Route du Liteau (TMF), 2km from the parking lot of Chanfroy (Carrière des Fusillés).
9	Dolmen du Divin 7c	roof / mantle	Thierry Guéguen
left problem on a dolmen-shaped boulder, 150m to the left of La Route de Milly (prolongation of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy), before the crossing with La Route du Louvard, 180m past the sector of Les Météores (cairn on the right side of the small path to the left of La Route de Milly).
10	Entrailles 7c	roof / mantle	Kevin Lopata
right problem on a dolmen-shaped boulder, 150m to the left of La Route de Milly (prolongation of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy), before the crossing with La Route du Louvard, 180m past the sector of Les Météores (cairn on the right side of the small path to the left of La Route de Milly).
11	Grince Dedans 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Kevin Lopata
50m above Le Dolmen du Divin, 200m to the left of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy, before the crossing with La Route du Louvard, 180m past the sector of Les Météores.
12	La Galerie s'Amuse 7b (7c)	slightly overhanging / crimps	Thierry Guéguen
slightly overhanging angle 8m above Grince Dedans in the sector Dolmen du Divin. Morpho start with a crimp right hand.
13	Punchy 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the top of the South face, in the sector Sanglier d'Érythème, 120m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR). Low sitstart as for Brutus and exit to the right. (GPS: N48.395750 E2.598210)
14	Brutus 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the top of the South face, in the sector Sanglier d'Érythème, 120m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR). Low sitstart as for Punchy and exit to the left. (GPS: N48.395750 E2.598210)
15	Le Sanglier d'Érythème 7c (7c+)	traverse fltr	Thierry Guéguen / Arnaud Ceintre
80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR); start completely left, low traverse and exit on the right as for Groin-Groin
16	Wahou 6b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of Le Sanglier d'Érythème, 80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR); sitstart to the left of the overhang and exit directly via the belly
17	Bas-Bush 7c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Stéphan Denys
on the boulder of Le Sanglier d'Érythème, 80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR); sitstart to the left of the overhang as for Wahou, but exit to the right
18	Groin-Groin 7a+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Stéphan Denys
80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR). Sitstart to the right of the overhang of the exit of Le Sanglier d'Érythème.
18'	Le Sanglier Arverne 7c+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pascal Thomas
on the boulder of Le Sanglier d'Érythème, 80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR). Sitstart in Groin-Groin, dyno to the left to the characteristic pinch of Bas-Bush and exit in that one.
18''	Groin-Groin par la gauche 7b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pascal Thomas
80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR), in the sector Sanglier d'Érythème. Sitstart in Groin-Groin, dyno to the characteristic pinch ofBas-Bush, come back to Groin-Groin by a shoulder move and exit in that one.
19	Cool, une Dalle! 5+ (6a)	slab	Philippe Dumez
on the right of the boulder of Le Sanglier d'Érythème, 80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR).
20	Caramba! 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Philippe Dumez
just above the boulder of Le Sanglier d'Érythème, 80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR); sitstart as for Antinéa, but exit directly in the belly (slightly morpho)
21	Antinéa 7c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
just above the boulder of Le Sanglier d'Érythème, 80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR); sitstart as for Caramba, but exit on the right
22	Évolution de l'Espèce debout 7c (7c+)	wall / high	Christian Roumégoux
high boulder to the right of La Route de Cévise (GR1) in direction of Le Coquillage. Standing start to the left of the pit with an evident hold and exit directly.
22'	Évolution de l'Espèce 8a	wall / high / sitstart	Christian Roumégoux
high boulder to the right of La Route de Cévise (GR1) in direction of Le Coquillage. Sitstart to the left of the pit with an evident hold and exit directly.
23	Le Coquillage 8a	prow / dyno / expo	Julien Nadiras
on a 6/7m high shell-shaped boulder. Start from a small boulder 1m50 from the ground and go straight in the prow.Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy, which becomes Le Chemin de Milly, for 1km600 and turn left at the GR; the boulder in in the chaos to the right of the path.
24	Contre-Poils 6c+	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart with exit by the easiest way of the slightly overhanging arete with a green arrow, on the left face of Robocop, 150m to the right of Coquillage. Access: from the parking lot, follow the Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy and then Chemin de Milly for 1km600, and turn left at the GR; the boulder is in the chaos to the right of the path.
24'	Contre-Poils droite 7a+	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
150m to the right of Le Coquillage; sitstart as for Contre-Poils, but exit via the arete, to the right of the green arrow
25	Robocop 7c+	slightly overhanging / dyno	Julien Nadiras
in the middle of a slightly overhanging boulder, 150m to the right of Coquillage. Access: from the parking lot, follow the Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy and then Chemin de Milly for 1km600, and turn left at the GR; the boulder is in the chaos to the right of the path. (GPS: N48.395417 E2.601167)
26	Travelling 6b+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on a boulder above Le Coquillage, 40m to the right of La Route de Cévise (GR), 100m after the crossing with a Route de Milly à Fontainebleau; sitstart on a small boulder on the left of the overhang
27	Court Métrage 7b+	slightly overhanging	Arnaud Ceintre / Thierry Plaud
sitstart to the right of the overhang on a boulder above Le Coquillage, 40m to the right of La Route de Cévise (GR), 100m after the crossing with a Route de Milly à Fontainebleau.
28	Pomme d'Api 7a	slopers / mantle	Arnaud Ceintre
in the Louve sector. Start with the medal-shaped hold right hand and exit directly.
29	La Louve 6c	arete / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
in the Louve sector. Sitstart with each hand in a pocket and exit slightly left of the arete.
30	Les Damnés du Virtuel 7c	slightly overhanging / arete	Arnaud Ceintre
in the Louve sector. Start as for Pomme d'Api, pass under the arete via pockets, take a good pinch left hand and exit in La Louve.
31	La Traversée des Nids 7b+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
in the Louve sector. Sitstart with a crimp right hand, traverse to the left and exit after the angle.
32	La Voie Royal 7c	traverse fltr / mantle	Arnaud Ceintre
in the Louve sector. Start in the tunnel with a foothook and the holds of the roof for the hands, traverse in the corridor without using the other side and exit to the right in Le Jogging de Starko.
33	Le Jogging de Starko 7a+	traverse fltr / roof	Arnaud Ceintre
in the Louve sector. Start in the tunnel with a foothook and the holds of the roof for the hands as for La Voie Royal, traverse to the right with the feet in the jug and exit directly.
		Outside the topo
Nagual 7a		wall	Jérôme Ceccaldi
on a big boulder visible from La Route de Milly just right of yellow n°15. Hanging start with two crimps in the overhang, make a heel hook and exit in the wall above.
Nagual gauche 7a		wall / crimps	David Evrard
on a big boulder visible from La Route de Milly just right of yellow n°15. Start with two crimps as for Nagual, but traverse for 1m50 in the overhang and exit above.
Éclats 7a		sitstart / slightly overhanging	Pascal Etienne
to the left of blue n°2 bis.
Le Vin du Dimanche 6a		wall / arete	J. Arrivepas
to the left of dark yellow n°49, at the bottom of the slope, to the left and underneath Nagual.
Le Vin du Dimanche direct 7a		wall / dyno	C. Pas 7a
to the left of dark yellow n°49, at the bottom of the slope, to the left and underneath Nagual. Direct version of Le Vin du Dimanche without the arete.
- 4		wall	-
warming problem to the opposite of the boulder of Sanglier d'Érythème, 80m above La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau and 80m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR).
- 6c (7a)		slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
left problem with a green arrow in a corridor between Évolution de l'Espèce and Le Coquillage.
- 7b		slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
central problem with a green arrow in a corridor between Évolution de l'Espèce and Le Coquillage. Sitstart with a pinch and exit slightly right above the jug.
- 6b		arete	-
right problem with a green arrow in a corridor between Évolution de l'Espèce and Le Coquillage.
Abdominale 8a+		traverse fltr	Christian Roumégoux
in a corridor between Évolution de l'Espèce and Le Coquillage. Start completely left with a round jug left hand, low traverse to the right up to the jug and exit with top holds in the left problem with a green arrow.
Maxiliaire 7b+		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Christian Roumégoux
in a corridor between Évolution de l'Espèce and Le Coquillage. Sitstart to the left of the central problem (green arrow), with the two hands on vertical holds and exit above the jug.
Inception 7a		wall / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart on a big bowl-shaped boulder completely to the East of the sector Louveteau, 30m underneath Geka. Access : go up the slope from the last cairn before La Route du Louveteau. (GPS: N48.394710 E2.605560)
Technicus 7c		wall / slopers / expo	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder to the left of Brutus, on the top of the South face, in the sector Sanglier d'Érythème, 120m to the West of La Route de Cévise (GR). Standing start from de ground, climb the slghtly overhanging wall with the slopers ofthe left arete and exit at the top.
Ambiance Montagne 6c+		wall / high	Manuel Marquès
just right of Le Coquillage, on a 6-7m high boulder. Standing start at an evident gully, make a mantle, climb the wall above and exit slightly left on the pillar. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy, which becomes Le Chemin de Milly, for 1km600 and turn left at the GR; the boulder in in the chaos to the right of the path.
Pas si Mal 7a		wall / expo	Manuel Marquès
on the North face of the boulder of Le Coquillage (6-7m high characteristic boulder), to the right of the downclimbing route. Standing start at the small pillar at a vertical broken hold and exit above. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy, which becomes Le Chemin de Milly, for 1km600 and turn left at the GR; the boulder in in the chaos to the right of the path.
Petit Ventre 6c+		belly	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder of Le Coquillage (6-7m high characteristic boulder). Standing start on the pedestal to the right of Ambiance Montagne, climb the belly and exit above. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy, which becomes Le Chemin de Milly, for 1km600 and turn left at the GR; the boulder in in the chaos to the right of the path.
Triunfal 7c+ (8a)		slightly overhanging / crimps / toprope	Manuel Marquès
grey overhang to the left of Le Coquillage, on a 6-7m high boulder. Sitstart in the pit (small arrow), climb the overhang on crimps, and exit with a vertical crack above a small pillar. Access : from the parking lot, follow Le Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy, which becomes Le Chemin de Milly, for 1km600 and turn left at the GR; the boulder in in the chaos to the right of the path.
De Nouveau Lâché 7a		pillar / high / expo	Manuel Marquès
high pillar just left of Nagual, in the sector of the yellow circuit. Standing start on the small boulder of yellow n°21 with a crimp-crack left hand and the arete right hand, climb that one and exit at the top. Access : from the start of the yellow circuit, go up the slope up to finding yellow n°21.

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