Bleau.info : Rocher de Milly : Topo

Bleau.info : Rocher de Milly : Topo

Between Arbonne and Achères-la-Forêt, take on the left the road towards the monument to the memory of the Resistance fighters and park the car at the parking lot of Chanfroy (don't let anything in the cars!) Follow La Route de la Plaine de Chanfroy (which becomes La Route de Milly à Fontainebleau) for 2km. The circuits can be found on the slope and isolated boulders above La Route du Liteau.

1	Geka 7b (7a+)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Rémi Perinet
on a boulder to the East of the sector Louveteau, 40m to the right of , underneath the crest. Sitstart on a stone with an undercling right hand and a tridoigt left hand and exit directly by the prow. (GPS: N48.394861 E2.606889)
2-1	Ventre Plat 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
right problem on a boulder 30m to the left of Geka, just under the crest, in the East of the sector Louveteau. Sitstart on the right with the arete right hand and a flat tridoigt left hand and exit directly.
2-1bis	Ventre Plat en traversée 7a+ (7a)	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder 30m to the left of A HREF="http://bleau.info/milly/20600.html">, just under the crest, in the East of the sector. Sitstart on the right with the arete right hand and a flat tridoigt left hand as for Ventre Plat, traverse to the left and exit via the left arete.
2-2	Et Talon Nez 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
central problem on a boulder 30m to the left of Geka, just under the crest, in the East of the sector Louveteau. Sitstart with a crimp right hand and a good hold left hand, climb a little roof and exit above.
2-2bis	Et Talon Nez gauche 6c+	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
central problem on a boulder 30m to the left of Geka, just under the crest, in the East of the sector Louveteau. Sitstart with a crimp right hand and a good hold left hand and climb the small roof as for Et Talon Nez, traverse to the left for 1m50 and exit to the right of the arete.
3-1	La Revanche des Grands 7a+	arete / slightly overhanging	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
left problem on a boulder in the middle of the slope, in the East of the sector Louveteau. Standing start with the arete right hand and a good undercling left hand and exit above.
3-1bis	Là on n'Est pas Gâtés 7a (7a+)	wall / slab / crimps	François-Xavier Joubert
right problem on a boulder in the middle of the slope, in the East of the sector Louveteau. Standing start with the arete left hand and a good vertical hold and exit by the slab above.
4	L'Envie au Bout des Doigts 7b+ (7c)	slightly overhanging / crimps	Yano Salaün
on a great slightly overhanging wall in the East of the sector Louveteau. Standing start between two small boulders, climb the wall and exit slightly left at the top of the boulder. (GPS: N48.394972 E2.605556)
5	La Vie à Bout de Bras 7a+ (7b)	roof / mantle / expo	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder underneath L'Envie au Bout des Doigts, in the East of the sector Louveteau. Sitstart on a stone to the right of the overhang with a sloper left hand, follow the ledge and exit above.
6-1	À Vue de Nez 6c (6c+)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
right problem on the second boulder underneath L'Envie au Bout des Doigts, in the Eastern part of the sector Louveteau. Sitstart without crash-pad and exit on slopers.
6-2	À Vue de Nez gauche 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on the second boulder underneath L'Envie au Bout des Doigts, in the Eastern part of the sector Louveteau. Standing start with the arete left hand and exit slightly right on slopers.
7	Trop Haut pour Toi 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / crimps / high	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on a boulder to the left of L'Envie au Bout des Doigts, in the Eastern part of the sector Louveteau. Standing start with a crimp left hand and a pocket for the left foot and exit above. (GPS: N48.395111 E2.605278)
8-1	El Condor Pasa 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on the boulder above La Révolte des Peuples, in the sector Louveteau. Sitstart to the left of a green arrow, with a flat vertical hold right hand and an undercling in the overhang and exit directly.
8-1bis	El Condor Pasa gauche 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / dyno / sitstart	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder above La Révolte des Peuples, in the sector Louveteau. Sitstart to the left of a green arrow as for El Condor Pasa and, just after the dynamic move, traverse for 2m on the ledge and exit with the left arete.
8-2	Le Yémen 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / crimps / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder above La Révolte des Peuples, in the sector Louveteau. Sitstart to the right of the boulder with the arete right hand and a small hold in the overhang and exit by the slab (without touching the small boulder).
8-2bis	La Traversée du Yémen 7b (7a+)	slightly overhanging / traverse frtl / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder above La Révolte des Peuples, in the sector Louveteau. Sitstart to the right of the boulder with the arete right hand and a small hold as for Le Yémen, traverse to the left on the ledge and exit as for El Condor Pasa gauche.
9-1	La Révolte des Peuples 7c (7b+)	crack / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder in the middle of the slope, above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 200m to the East of Robocop. Sitstart just right of a stone with a thin crack and exit on the right.
9-1bis	La Révolte des Peuples gauche 7c (7b+)	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder in the middle of the slope, above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 200m to the East of Robocop. Sitstart as for La Révolte des Peuples, but instead of finishing right, take an undercling and exit with the left arete.
9-2	La Tunisie 6a (6b)	wall / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder in the middle of the slope, above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 200m to the East of Robocop. Standing start and exit directly.
9-3	La Libye 6b+	slightly overhanging / pockets / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
right problem on a boulder in the middle of the slope, in the sector Louveteau, above La Route de Milly, 200m to the East of Robocop. Standing start with a good pocket right hand and exit slightly left.
10-1	Monolithe 7a	arete / slightly overhanging / slopers	Renan Viguié / Thomas Collignon
on a big boulder above and to the right of Stuva, in the middle of the slope, in the sector Louveteau, above La Route de Milly, 150m to the East of Robocop. Standing start to the right of a green arrow, clim the arete on slopers and exit at the top.
10-1bis	Monolithe assis 7a+	arete / slopers / sitstart	Pascal Gagneux / Gérald Coste
on a big boulder above and to the right of Stuva, in the middle of the slope, above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Sitstart with two underclings and exit on the right arete.
11	Stuva 7a (7b)	prow / slightly overhanging / slopers	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
in the middle of the slope, above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Static standing start with a sloper left hand and a crimp right hand and exit directly on the prow.
12-1	Pourquoi Pas 6b+ (6c)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Low sitstart with good holds, traverse to the right and exit above.
12-2	Le Jeu Thé 7a+ (6c+)	slightly overhanging / dyno / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Standing start without crash-pad, jump to a sloper and exit above. (GPS: N48.395111 E2.604056)
13-1	Koyaanisqatsi 7a+ (7b)	arete / slightly overhanging / crimps	Yano Salaün
on a boulder above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Standing start from a stone with a vertical crimp left hand and the arete right hand and exit above.
13-2	Koyaanisqatsi gauche 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / crimps / arete	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder above La Route de Milly, in the sector Louveteau, 150m to the East of Robocop. Standing start with a flat vertical hold and exit above.
14	Moment de Déception 7a	arete / slightly overhanging / slopers	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
on the boulder above and to the right of Robocop. Standing start just left of a small boulder with a vertical hold right hand and exit above with a small sloper on the arete.
15	Saga Africa 7b	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder above Robocop. Standing start and exit directly (without using the small boulders on the ground).
15b-1	La Guerre des Boutons direct 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / pinches / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder above and slightly left of Robocop. Low sitstart, take a pinch and exit above.
15b-2	La Guerre des Boutons 7a+	slightly overhanging / traverse frtl / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder above and slightly left of Robocop. Low sitstart and take the pinch as for La Guerre des Boutons direct, traverse to the left for 3m and exit above button-like holds.
16-1	Contre-Poils 6c+	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart with exit by the easiest way of the slightly overhanging arete with a green arrow, on the left face of Robocop, 150m to the right of Coquillage. Access: from the parking lot, follow the Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy and then Chemin de Milly for 1km600, and turn left at the GR; the boulder is in the chaos to the right of the path.
16-1bis	Contre-Poils droite 7a+	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
150m to the right of Le Coquillage; sitstart as for Contre-Poils, but exit via the arete, to the right of the green arrow
16-2	Robocop 7c+	slightly overhanging / dyno	Julien Nadiras
in the middle of a slightly overhanging boulder, 150m to the right of Coquillage. Access: from the parking lot, follow the Chemin de la Plaine de Chanfroy and then Chemin de Milly for 1km600, and turn left at the GR; the boulder is in the chaos to the right of the path. (GPS: N48.395417 E2.601167)
16-3	- 6b (6c)	slightly overhanging / crimps	Yano Salaün / Laurent Raviot
just right of Robocop. Standing start on a small boulder with a crimp right hand and the arete left hand and exit directly.
17-1	Pris de Vitesse gauche 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Thomas Collignon / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder just left of Robocop. Sitstart on a stone with the two hands on a ledge, climb the vertical cracks and exit on the right at the same point as for Pris de Vitesse.
17-1bis	Pris de Vitesse 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstart	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
on the boulder just left of Robocop. Standing start with a good undercling and exit at the same point as for Pris de Vitesse gauche.
18-1	Fiskars 6c+ (7a)	prow / slightly overhanging / crimps	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
on a boulder to the left of Robocop. Start with two shapy cimps and exit by the prow.
18-1bis	Fiskars gauche 7a+	prow / slightly overhanging / crimps	Thomas Collignon / Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder to the left of Robocop. Start with a pinch on the right of the arete and exit at the same point as for Fiskars.
19	Nanoparticules 7a	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder just underneath Nanoparticules, above and to the left of Robocop. Standing start, traverse on the ledge and exit after the left arete.
20	Nanotechnologie 7c+ (7c)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Pascal Gagneux / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder just above Nanotechnologie, above and to the left of Robocop. Sitstart to the right with a sloper right hand and a crimp left hand and exit slightly left on slopers.
21-1	Un Rouge-Gorge comme Compagnon 6c (6c+)	prow / slightly overhanging / mantle	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder 60m above and to the left of Robocop. Start with the pedestal and pass under the prow, take a pocket on the left and exit to the left of the prow.
21-1bis	Un Rouge-Gorge comme Compagnon droite 6b (6b+)	prow / slightly overhanging / mantle	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder 60m above and to the left of Robocop. Start with the pedestal and pass under the prow as for Un Rouge-Gorge comme Compagnon but exit to the right of the prow with good holds.
22	Disgracieux et Parfois Contagieux 8a (7c+)	traverse frtl / slopers / slightly overhanging	Tony Fouchereau
on a boulder to the left of Un Rouge-Gorge comme Compagnon, 60m above and to the left of Robocop. Start to the right, traverse to the left with top holds, downclimb on good holds and exit by the left arete.