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Bleau à Bloc is the title of the new topo of Jacky Godoffe. This first issue of a series of three topos covers the North-West of the forest of Fontainebleau (Cuvier, Franchard, Demoiselles,...) The principle is original since the book is exclusively based on drawings on photos. The price is rather expensive (30€) but for 336 pages. The topo can be found in the classical booksellers or ordered on the website of Versante Sud. (5 responses)
Phytolacca Americana is a toxic plant that has been colonizing the forest of Fontainebleau since the last years (see the forum of October 2008). A website (in French) http://phytolaque.wifeo.com has been created to give information about it and advice for its eradication.
This event, organized by the FFME (French climbing federation), proposes to all climbers a series of workshops from Saturday 25 September afternoon to Sunday 26. All types of climbing can be tested (boulder, wall, artificial,...) but you can also be initiated to cartography and avalanche research and participate to two contests. For further information, see the FFME website. (1 response)
For more than 30 years, Larchant's International Triathlon has been a unique event at Bleau. This competition consists in a climbing circuit, followed by a mountain bike one and ends with a cross. It will take place on September 19th (and you are supposed to "walk on your stumped knee cap" the day after!)
Cuvier, Isatis, Rocher des Demoiselles,... Every curious climber or walker has once wondered about the origin of those names in the forest. The book of Alain Monnier Le Guide des noms de la forêt de Fontainebleau answers many of these questions (in French of course). It is available for 9.50€ at the booksellers of the region or can be ordered by e-mail larouteronde@free.fr (with 3.50€ shipping rates).
Climbers at Fontainebleau also appreciate to visit the forest without any climbing consideration. Many of them will certainly be interested by the trail organized on September 18, all the more several formulas are proposed the longest with 60km together with 1500m steep hills.
Together with his friends of GUMS, Georges Tsao has just repainted the blue circuit D+ of Mont Aigu. The most lichened boulders have been rebrushed. The orange circuit had already been repainted in 2009, and the blue one needed such a consideration. The equipment has been given by the FFME and le Comité Départemental 77 des Sites Naturels d'Escalade. If you have any remark or if you wish to participate to such an operation, please contact Georges Tsao by e-mail. (3 responses)
Xavier Crété and the climbing club 2APN grimpe of Avon have recently repainted the classical TD- red circuit of Franchard Cuisinière. The original problems have been respected, as well as the variants.
Notice that a fire started on the crest, near white n°30 on Tuesday 13 of July. Climbers and walkers have to be vigilant during dry periods of Summer.
Familiars of Franchard have noticed that the barreers have been closed those last months at the entrance of La route des Buttes de Fontainebleau. Actually, the ONF has decided to close definitely the parking lot of Franchard Cuisinière. The access from Franchard Isatis remains open. See in our forum the reaction of the Cosiroc about this rather unjustified decision.
Georges Tsao, helped by friends of the GUMS, has repainted the historic circuit Fraise Écrasée at Vallon de la Solitude next to Apremont. A big work has been necessary to clean up the boulders and minor modifications have been made. Thanks to the FFME and the Comité Départemental 77 des Sites Naturels d'Escalade who gave the equipment for this operation.
The polishing of holds, especially foot holds, has been increasing during the last years. However, an easy gesture can reduce the phenomenon : it suffices to clean one's shoes on a piece of (door) mat before climbing. The section of Fontainebleau of the FFME has organized a distribution of small mats during the last spring and T-shirts and stickings will soon be made. Thanks to Jean-Claude Beauregard, Jo Montchaussé and Bernard Théret for their efforts! (19 responses)
This is not a new climbing area, but the new book of Emmanuel Ratouis. About 30 surrealist novels describe the ambient of Bleau from the beginning of the XXth century to the recent years. Existing climbers can be recognized among the suitors of the lovely Kikoya! The book will soon be available at some booksellers in Paris or on the website Tupilak.
(3 responses)
The sector of Rocher de Bouligny has been revisited by several teams of climbers. In the Eastern part, Fabien Marchand,
Jérémie Cogan, David Evrard and their friends have opened major problems along the blue path and the GR. Closer to the classical sector, Manuel Marquès has also discovered nice boulders. The only drawback (or advantage) of all these boulders : the long access! (0 responses)
The existence of engraved overhangs at Bleau cannot justify the modern activity of tagging. People practicing "street art" are requested to stay in their quarters (or to mark the walls of their own gymnasium if they are climbers...)
A "climbing structure in a climbing area" : this is the slogan of the leisure center of Buthiers for the construction of a 25m high climbing wall that could be achieved already in September. Time will tell if this idea is excellent or on the contrary out of place! Anyway, information can be found on the website of the center. (12 responses)
Le club Degré + de Saint-Fargeau organise cette année encore son Open régional de bloc, le Challenge Lamouret. Cette compétition, organisée sous l'égide de la FFME, avec Thibaut Le Scour pour chef ouvreur, compte pour le classement national pour les catégories officielles (Minime, Cadet, Junior, Senior, Vétéran). Elle se déroulera le week-end du 27 et 28 mars et les inscriptions sont ouvertes sur le site de la FFME jusqu'au 13 mars.
(0 responses)
Le 20 février prochain, une compétition amicale assortie d'une tombola aura lieu à Antrebloc, à l'initiative de Christophe Bichet (et avec la complicité de Sébastien Herbst et de Ivan Maucuit). Le but de cette opération est d'aider les personnes atteintes de la maladie de Fanconi par le biais de l'association AFMF à laquelle les fonds récoltés seront intégralement reversés. Venez nombreux! (4 responses)
Lucas Ménégatti has left Bleau for a 6 months trip in the US. His aim is to discover new people, new sectors, new rocks, and to push his own limits in bouldering. He has already visited Boulder Canyon in the Colorado and Joe's Valley in Utah and Lucas is now in the mythic park of Yosemite. His future projects are named Bishop, Hueco, Moe's valley, Flagstaff, Horse Pens 40 and many other ones for sure! Pictures of his trip can be found on the blog by Lucas. (0 responses)
Frédéric Buc has discovered a small area located near the aqueduct of la Vanne. About 50 problems have been brushed, from 4a to 7b, most of them being of grade 6, see the online topo. Before climbing on brand new and often quick-drying boulders, the access to the area will be the occasion to observe the original structure of the aqueduct along the path. (0 responses)
Keith Bradbury (aka Unclesomebody) and Tyler Landman are known for their exceptional repetitions at Bleau during the last months, see for instance our news item of April. After L'Étranger | The Outsider - 85 jours à Fontainebleau, Keith has realized a 67 minutes film showing the journey of those two ambitious Englishmen across the forest. The CD "Between the Trees" can be ordered (or downloaded) on unclesomebody.com. More details can be found in our forum. (9 responses)
Caribou Aventure is a new adventure park located at Noisy-sur-Ecole near the forest. Many activities are proposed, including a swimming-pool, beach-volley, acrobranche in the trees and of course a climbing structure. Many other things that we let you discover : just know that if you are looking for originality, a tyrolienne in a kayak is waiting for you! (0 responses)
Climb on is often the problem of boulderers when the skin of fingers does not resist... Many regenerating creams exist, but the Climb On! products seem to be the more efficient, due to the fact that they are specially devoted to climbers. Being imported from the US, they are not available in many places : Antrebloc and Block'Out, the SOeScalade truck around Paris, or online on the pages of TheClimbingShop or Climb On! (7 responses)
Une forte équipe de Bleausards parmi lesquels Olivier Lebreton, Vincent Pochon et David Evrard a atterri au Cap il y a une semaine et s'est installée au milieu des Rocklands. Du 7a le premier jour, 7b+ le second, et on en est déjà à du 8a+ et du 7c+ à vue! Pour davantage d'infos, voir notre forum et Pointbloc... en fonction des aléas de la connection internet de l'équipe à qui nous souhaitons de continuer sur cette lancée! (11 responses)
Less than 16 months ago, we announced the 1000th boulder with video and we switched to a new format. Today, out of a total of 7000 boulders with images, we celebrate our 1500th boulder problem with video! As a nice coincidence, the video is one taken yesterday at Le Grand Toit of Éléphant Ouest and shows Sans Toit ni Loi, an 8a that has not been referred before. We recall that that everybody can contact the editors to get an upload account for sending us videos (and photos)! (0 responses)
In summer, many climbers are looking for easier circuits in shady sectors of the forest. Two independent equips have just repainted orange circuits, with minor modifications. Georges Tsao and his friends of the GUMS have rehabilited the orange circuit n°1 of Mont Aigu. In another part of the forest, Olivier Cazeaux helped by Jean-Claude Valluet and Denis Pannetier have redrawn the orange circuit n°1 of Rocher Canon, adding a few new problems. (22 responses)Welcome to bleau.info, the one stop website about bouldering in Fontainebleau. A short name, which stands for an abundance of climbing beta. With ten thousands of pages, this is the ultimate reference site for Bleausards and Wannabees.
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