News archive

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• US trip of Lucas Ménégatti ~ 01.12
  Lucas Ménégatti has left Bleau for a 6 months trip in the US. His aim is to discover new people, new sectors, new rocks, and to push his own limits in bouldering. He has already visited Boulder Canyon in the Colorado and Joe's Valley in Utah and Lucas is now in the mythic park of Yosemite. His future projects are named Bishop, Hueco, Moe's valley, Flagstaff, Horse Pens 40 and many other ones for sure! Pictures of his trip can be found on the blog by Lucas. (0 responses)
  
  
• Openings at Coquibus Arcades ~ 29.11
  Frédéric Buc has discovered a small area located near the aqueduct of la Vanne. About 50 problems have been brushed, from 4a to 7b, most of them being of grade 6, see the online topo. Before climbing on brand new and often quick-drying boulders, the access to the area will be the occasion to observe the original structure of the aqueduct along the path. (0 responses)
  
  
• Between the Trees ~ 17.11
  Keith Bradbury (aka Unclesomebody) and Tyler Landman are known for their exceptional repetitions at Bleau during the last months, see for instance our news item of April. After L'Étranger | The Outsider - 85 jours à Fontainebleau, Keith has realized a 67 minutes film showing the journey of those two ambitious Englishmen across the forest. The CD "Between the Trees" can be ordered (or downloaded) on unclesomebody.com. More details can be found in our forum. (9 responses)
  
  
• Caribou Aventure ~ 15.11
  Caribou Aventure is a new adventure park located at Noisy-sur-Ecole near the forest. Many activities are proposed, including a swimming-pool, beach-volley, acrobranche in the trees and of course a climbing structure. Many other things that we let you discover : just know that if you are looking for originality, a tyrolienne in a kayak is waiting for you!
  
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• Climb On products ~ 01.11
  Climb on is often the problem of boulderers when the skin of fingers does not resist... Many regenerating creams exist, but the Climb On! products seem to be the more efficient, due to the fact that they are specially devoted to climbers. Being imported from the US, they are not available in many places : Antrebloc and Block'Out, the SOeScalade truck around Paris, or online on the pages of TheClimbingShop or Climb On! (7 responses)
  
  
• Trip in South Africa ~ 13.07
  Une forte équipe de Bleausards parmi lesquels Olivier Lebreton, Vincent Pochon et David Evrard a atterri au Cap il y a une semaine et s'est installée au milieu des Rocklands. Du 7a le premier jour, 7b+ le second, et on en est déjà à du 8a+ et du 7c+ à vue! Pour davantage d'infos, voir notre forum et Pointbloc... en fonction des aléas de la connection internet de l'équipe à qui nous souhaitons de continuer sur cette lancée! (11 responses)
  
  
• Round statistics ~ 07.07
  Less than 16 months ago, we announced the 1000th boulder with video and we switched to a new format. Today, out of a total of 7000 boulders with images, we celebrate our 1500th boulder problem with video! As a nice coincidence, the video is one taken yesterday at Le Grand Toit of Éléphant Ouest and shows Sans Toit ni Loi, an 8a that has not been referred before. We recall that that everybody can contact the editors to get an upload account for sending us videos (and photos)! (0 responses)
  
  
• Redrawings of orange circuits ~ 07.07
  In summer, many climbers are looking for easier circuits in shady sectors of the forest. Two independent equips have just repainted orange circuits, with minor modifications. Georges Tsao and his friends of the GUMS have rehabilited the orange circuit n°1 of Mont Aigu. In another part of the forest, Olivier Cazeaux helped by Jean-Claude Valluet and Denis Pannetier have redrawn the orange circuit n°1 of Rocher Canon, adding a few new problems. (22 responses)
  
  
• Boulder Worldcup Eindhoven, the Netherlands ~ 11.06
  One of the peculiar aspects of this website is that its origins aren't in France, but in the Dutch city of Eindhoven. This Friday and Saturday, the last IFSC Boulder Worldcup of the season will be hosted by that city. The startlist shows some true Bleausards and strongest climbers in the world, and we will be providing live video and updates for the event. Check the competition website for a video of the finals! (1 response)
  
  
• New problems at Les Mammouths ~ 15.05
  Are the sectors near Nemours becoming more popular? After Le Troglodyte, it is the turn of Les Mammouths to be revisited. Indeed, David Desmet has opened more than 50 problems (from 4a to 6c) near the Musée de la Préhistoire of Nemours. Maybe an occasion to combine a climbing session with a visit to the museum (or vice-versa)? (0 responses)
  
  
• Dangerous boulder at roof of Le Calvaire ~ 05.05
  An equip of the ONF has extracted yesterday the part of the roof that was about to collapse, see the chronicle of October 03, 2008. A crane has transported a 16.5 tons boulder to the plateau : images of this impressive operation can be seen in the messages of the forum and on a 7mn long video. (7 responses)
  
  
• Flashing 8th degree boulders ~ 18.04
  Despite the fact that the frontpage has a list of the latest 8th degree repetitions, this website is not in the game of creating stupid rankings to boast individual registrations, as it is against the spirit of rock climbing. However, rules are there to be broken once in a while, and we have a good occasion. It came to our attention that the most famous boulder opened by one of our editors, Neverland (8a), has been flashed by Audun Bratrud. It turns out that in our database with about 100k repetitions, only 17 represent flashing of 8th degree boulders! In the last 12 months, Samuel Wilkinson and Tyler Landman stood out by flashing multiple 8a and harder boulders. (12 responses)
  
  
• The Troglodyte cave ~ 12.04
  At the end of 2008, Pascal Etienne has brushed a new sector near Nemours discovered by David Lepage in 2006. The Troglodyte area now propose offers an orange circuit and about 60 problems of all grades, often with good landings, except those on the Rempart for which the rope is recommended. This new sector is near the Troglodyte cave mentioned on the IGN map (for a precise access, see the page of Le Troglodyte). (0 responses)
  
  
• Challenge Lamouret [fr] ~ 04.02
  Jérôme Chaput nous signale que le Club degré + de St-Fargeau-Ponthierry organise les 7 et 8 mars prochains le challenge Lamouret. Il s'agit d'un open de blocs, dont l'ouvreur des voies n'est autre que Christian Roumégoux. La compétition des "grands" (cadet, junior, senior et vétéran) aura lieu le samedi et celle des "petits" (microbe, poussin, benjamin, minime) le dimanche. Les inscriptions peuvent être faites en ligne sur le site de la FFME. (8 responses)
  
  
• An interview of Michel Libert in escalademag.com ~ 27.01
  Our friend Frédéric Vannucci has realized an interview of Michel Libert that can be found as a news item of the online magazine escalademag.com. Notice that the paper version of the magazine (available in the French climbing structures) will not include this article...
  
  
  
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• Le Moulin de Roisneau [fr] ~ 08.12
  Suite à quelques délits d'initiés, la rumeur d'un spot secret au fin fond de l'Essonne circulait ces derniers temps en forêt... Le nouveau secteur du Moulin de Roisneau que nous dévoilons aujourd'hui est l'œuvre des équipes de Romain Hocquemiller, Gérald Coste (qui a fait le topo) d'une part et de Cyril Bottollier et Eric Letot d'autre part. Attention : il s'agit d'un site sensible, strictement interdit les jours de chasse, où les grimpeurs devront être particulièrement discrets. (Plus d'informations dans notre forum). (11 responses)
  
  
• Téléthon 2008 [fr] ~ 03.12
  A l'occasion du Téléthon 2008, plusieurs salles d'escalade se mobilisent. L’équipe d'Antrebloc organise 24h de grimpe non-stop les 5 et 6 décembre prochains, durant lesquels les participants essaieront d’engranger un maximum de blocs et de voies. Début des hostilités vendredi 05 décembre à 12h!
  La salle Block'Out de Cergy propose quant à elle un Défi Bloc le samedi 6 décembre de 9h à 1h du matin.
  Les fonds récoltés seront reversés au Téléthon : venez nombreux! (plus d'informations dans notre forum). (5 responses)
  
  
• Hunting days ~ 28.11
  It is very unpleasant to be blocked by hunters some fine day in the forest of Fontainebleau. Thanks to Jean-Claude Valluet and the hiking group "Pas à Pas" of Savigny le Temple, we can give you a planning of the hunting days for the season 2008-2009.
  
  
  
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• Update 7 + 8 : 1789 straight ups in Fontainebleau ~ 13.11
  Exactly 11 months ago, we introduced 7 + 8 : 1789 straight ups in Fontainebleau, the second edition of the splendid Font guide by Bart van Raaij. This website already sold well over ½k copies of Bart's guides, which received great reviews. But no topo guide is without any errors, so Bart wrote an update about his latest guide with, most importantly, a list of corrections available as a PDF file.
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• Both sides of climbing in Fontainebleau ~ 02.11
  Neil Hart of the climbers' gîte Maison Bleau sent us a little film (pop-up), in which he wants to put a message across to climbers to respect the rock and the environment more than is currently happening. Bouldering is the greatest game there is, but unfortunately we have to point out over and over again not to overuse chalk, pof and tickmarks, and to clean up your own and other people's litter!
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• A new DVD about Font! ~ 22.10
  Jérôme Collet has realized a climbing DVD of 100 minutes, which presents more than 60 boulders in 20 different sectors. The originality of this DVD is its diversity, as well as for the areas as for the levels shown (problems from 5c to 7c+). A five minutes long extract can be seen on Grimporama and the DVD can be ordered (12€ + 3€ shipping for France or 6€ abroad) at the address speederman.dvd@gmail.com.
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• Les Cent Marches at La Padôle ~ 08.10
  Pascal Etienne has brushed many new problems in the sector of Les Cent Marches, 250m from the classical area of La Padôle. Four new circuits (children caramel EN and white EN+, yellow PD and orange AD+) are now available for beginners and more confirmed climbers, who will apreciate this very quiet area close to Paris.
  
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• Vendanges du Raisin d'Amérique le samedi 11 octobre [fr] ~ 07.10
  Le Phytolaque, ou Raisin d’Amérique, se reconnaît à ses tiges rouge violacé qui atteignent une hauteur de 1 à 3 mètres et à ses fruits noirs «en grappes de raisin». C’est une plante toxique, à ne pas manipuler sans gants, qui colonise depuis quelques temps la forêt de Fontainebleau en détruisant la microfaune et la microflore du sol.
  Thierry Pain (membre de la Commission des Réserves Biologiques de la forêt de Fontainebleau) propose une journée d'action contre cette plante le samedi 11 octobre (voir la suite dans notre forum). (1 response)
  
  
• Danger at L'Auvent du Calvaire! ~ 03.10
  Grégoire Clouzeau and the COSIROC confirm the information given last Spring :
  As I announced some time ago, the "Auvent du Calvaire" has been examined by the ONF staff. Cleaning up the top of the roof has revealed important cracks and it has become evident that the cave could collapse one day. Climbing of course is no longer possible in this roof. See the images!
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• Integral of Le Toit d'Orsay ~ 29.09
  This is an exceptional achievement : Rémy Bergasse has realized the integral climbing of Le Toit d'Orsay this afternoon. This longstanding problem consists in combining the 7c+ of Quoi de Neuf (Acte 1) and the 8b/8b+ of Quoi de Neuf (Acte 2). Besides from being the closest boulder to Paris, Quoi de Neuf is now also the most difficult problem, at least in its own style. We wish Rémy to find (and to succeed in) even more difficult challenges at Font! (7 responses)
  
  

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