Bleau.info : Areas : Rocher de la Salamandre : 7a and harder

Rocher de la Salamandre : 7a and harder

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Other overviews 7a and harder: 15 straight-ups, 5 traverses
Topos: Rocher de la Salamandre (Jean-Jacques Naëls)

Mieux qu'un Rêve 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle	Pascal Etienne
topo nº2; on the North face of the boulder of La Salamandre, 50m to the left of Petit Tome. Start to the right in a corridor and exit to the left by a mantle.
Douce Folie 6c+ (7a)	traverse fltr / slopers / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of Grain de Folie, completely to the East of the sector. Start left, low traverse in the overhang without using the pedestal and exit in Grain de Folie.
Nino Bello 7a (6c+)	crack / high / sitstart	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
2m to the left of Le Concile d'Elvire, in an old quarry, 30m to the right and behind Toiles de Maîtres. Sitstart in a small roof, take the crack and exit with good holds. See also: Le Concile d'Elvire 7c (7c+)
La Coulée Verte 7a	wall / crimps / crack	Pepito
topo nº22; on a wall exposed to the South with a tree planted in its middle and a characteristic streak, on the top of the hill, 300m past Le Rocher de la Salamandre, after an old quarry and 20m before La Route du Venin. Climb the wall to the left of the streak with crimps and a thin crack. A prolongation by a 2m traverse on crimps up to the classical start is also possible (7a+). NB : a direct access consists to park the car at the underground aquaduct, to follow La Route de Milly for 1km and then to take La Route du Venin up to the top of the slope.
Célinette 7a	arete / slopers / high	Teddy Deschamps / Manuel Marquès
topo nº14; right arete on the boulder of Menhir, on a characteristic boulder in the middle of the slope, near La Route du Venin. Access : follow La Route d'Occident for 300m beyond Petit Tome and go up the hill at the third military sign to the right.
Petit Privilège 7a	roof / sitstart	-
topo nº27b; on the boulder of Sublime Privilège. Sitstart to the left of the overhang as for La Boîte de Pandore and climb the roof directly to the exit of Sublime Privilège. See also: Sublime Privilège 7b+
Toiles de Maîtres 7a+	slightly overhanging / mantle	Pepito / Pascal Etienne
topo nº8; 50m to the left of Petit Tome, just above Le Rocher de la Salamandre (boulder with Mieux qu'un Rêve (and Menumental). Start with jugs, take an oblique crack and exit by a mantle at the top of the boulder.
Courant d'Aise 7a+	traverse fltr / dyno / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
topo nº15; in plot 136, 20m after and slightly underneath Menhir. Sitstart in a pit, traverse to the right and exit with a dynamic move.
Tête d'Œuf 7a+	wall / underclings / slopers	Pepito
topo nº21; on an egg-shaped boulder 1,5km from the parking lot, to the right of La Route de l'Occident. Standing start, take underclings and exit on slopers. NB : lichened (March 2010).
Grain de Folie 7a+	roof / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on an isolated boulder to the East of the sector. Access : park at the right side near the aqueduct coming from Fontainebleau on the N152, climb up the stairs; the problem is in an obvious roof on the top. See also: Coup de Folie 7c
Petit Tome (Petit d'Homme) 7b	traverse fltr	Benoît Faure
topo nº1; park at Carrefour d'Occident, walk into the path that goes East, turn right after 30m, follow the thalweg for 150m and go up the hill on the right to find the boulder, in the North face. NB : named after as "Petit Tome" at the opening, and distorted in "Petit d'Homme" in several topos.
Nouvelle Vague 7b (7b+)	dyno	Sébastien Frigault
topo nº30; dyno to the right of Besoin d'Elle. Access : from the aquaduct on the D301, follow La Route de Milly for 800m and turn diagonally to the left on a small path; the boulder is against the Rempart after 50m. It is also possible to go to the South face from Petit Tome : the boulder is at the end of the old carrier, 200m further.
Menumental 7b+ (7b)	roof / crack	Jacky Godoffe
topo nº4; 50m to the left of Petit Tome, in the roof of Le Rocher de La Salamandre.
Sublime Privilège 7b+	roof / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault / Francis Hélias
topo nº27; in a roof under the crest, in the South face. Low start and exit to the right or directly. Access : take La Route de Milly for 900m and turn left near La Route du Venin (plot 136). See also: Petit Privilège 7a
Besoin d'Elle 7c	dyno / underclings / slopers	Sébastien Frigault
topo nº31; dyno from underclings to the left of Nouvelle Vague. Access : from the aquaduct on the D301, follow La Route de Milly for 800m and turn diagonally to the left on a small path; the boulder is against the Rempart after 50m. It is also possible to go to the South face from Petit Tome : the boulder is at the end of the old carrier, 200m further. See also: Besoin de Couteau 6c
Menhir 7c	arete / slopers / high	Julien Nadiras
topo nº13; right arete on a characteristic boulder in the middle of the slope, near La Route du Venin. Access : follow La Route d'Occident for 300m beyond Petit Tome and go up the hill at the third military sign to the right.
Coup de Folie 7c	traverse fltr / roof / expo	Gérald Coste
on the boulder of Grain de Folie, completely to the East of the sector. Start left, low traverse without the pedestal and exit in Grain de Folie. See also: Grain de Folie 7a+
Le Concile d'Elvire 7c (7c+)	slightly overhanging / high	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
in an old quarry, 30m to the right and behind Toiles de Maîtres. Jump start from the stone to an oblique crimp (without crash-pad), climb the slghtly overhanging wall and exit above. See also: Nino Bello 7a (6c+)
La Boîte de Pandore 7c+	overhang / traverse fltr	Christian Roumégoux
topo nº28b; long sequence of moves: start to the left of the classical start of Sublime Privilège, traverse completely around the boulder until the start, and end by climbing the 7b+ again.
Dune 8b+	overhang / dyno	Sébastien Frigault
topo nº12; on the North face of a characteristic overhang on the ridge, to the right of La Route du Venin.

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