Bleau.info : Rocher de la Salamandre : Topo

thanks to Pepito

This shady area is constituted of few boulders scattered along the crest in between Le Rocher de Milly and Le Rocher de Bouligny. For most of the boulders, park the car at Le Carrefour d'Occident, on the D301 (less than 5km from Le Carrefour du Grand Veneur). Take the path that goes East, turn right after 30m, follow the thalweg for 150m; the first boulders (among which those of Petit Tome and La Salamandre) are on the right up the hill, in the North face.

1	Petit Tome (Petit d'Homme) 7b	traverse fltr	Benoît Faure
park at Carrefour d'Occident, walk into the path that goes East, turn right after 30m, follow the thalweg for 150m and go up the hill on the right to find the boulder, in the North face. NB : named after as "Petit Tome" at the opening, and distorted in "Petit d'Homme" in several topos.
1b	- 5+	wall	-
direct problem at the start of the traverse of Petit Tome, on the first boulder of the sector.
2	Mieux qu'un Rêve 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / mantle	Pascal Etienne
on the North face of the boulder of La Salamandre, 50m to the left of Petit Tome. Start to the right in a corridor and exit to the left by a mantle.
3	La Salamandre 6c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart on le Rocher de la Salamandre, between Menumental and Mieux qu'un Rêve.
4	Menumental 7b+ (7b)	roof / crack	Jacky Godoffe
50m to the left of Petit Tome, in the roof of Le Rocher de La Salamandre.
5	- 6b	wall	Pascal Etienne
to the opposite of Toiles de Maîtres, on the backside of the boulder of La Salamandre.
6	L'Oreille Cassée 6b+	traverse fltr	Pepito
on the boulder Toiles de Maîtres, just above Le Rocher de la Salamandre. NB : the rtl traverse is also possible (same difficulty).
7	Tempête de Sable 6c	wall	Pepito
direct problem to the right of Toiles de Maîtres, 50m to the left of the boulder of Petit Tome. Update (January 2009) : broken hold...
8	Toiles de Maîtres 7a+	slightly overhanging / mantle	Pepito / Pascal Etienne
50m to the left of Petit Tome, just above Le Rocher de la Salamandre (boulder with Mieux qu'un Rêve (and Menumental). Start with jugs, take an oblique crack and exit by a mantle at the top of the boulder.
9	Chaussée Glissante 6c	-	Pepito
right problem on a boulder to the East of La Salamandre.
10	Naufrage d'un Songe 6a	sitstart	Pepito
central problem on a boulder to the East of La Salamandre.
11	Ouragan 6c+	-	-
left problem on a boulder to the East of La Salamandre.
12	Dune 8b+	overhang / dyno	Sébastien Frigault
on the North face of a characteristic overhang on the ridge, to the right of La Route du Venin.
13	Menhir 7c	arete / slopers / high	Julien Nadiras
right arete on a characteristic boulder in the middle of the slope, near La Route du Venin. Access : follow La Route d'Occident for 300m beyond Petit Tome and go up the hill at the third military sign to the right.
14	Célinette 7a	arete / slopers / high	Teddy Deschamps / Manuel Marquès
right arete on the boulder of Menhir, on a characteristic boulder in the middle of the slope, near La Route du Venin. Access : follow La Route d'Occident for 300m beyond Petit Tome and go up the hill at the third military sign to the right.
15	Courant d'Aise 7a+	traverse fltr / dyno / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
in plot 136, 20m after and slightly underneath Menhir. Sitstart in a pit, traverse to the right and exit with a dynamic move.
16	La Fissure d'Hélias 6b+	crack / sitstart	Francis Hélias
to the opposite of La Reine du Bal, 20m past Menhir, in the plot 136. Sitstart in a pit and climb a zigzag-shaped crack.
17	La Reine du Bal 5+	wall	-
to the opposite of La Fissure d'Hélias, 20m after Menhir, in plot 136.
18	Trafic d'Opium 6c+	wall / crack / crimps	Pepito
wall with a thin crack, 30m after Menhir.
19	Rose des Sables 5+	wall / underclings	Pepito
left problem to the opposite of Trafic d'Opium, 40m after Menhir.
20	Rose des Vents 6a	wall	Pepito
right problem to the opposite of Trafic d'Opium, 40m after Menhir.
21	Tête d'Œuf 7a+	wall / underclings / slopers	Pepito
on an egg-shaped boulder 1,5km from the parking lot, to the right of La Route de l'Occident. Standing start, take underclings and exit on slopers. NB : lichened (March 2010).
22	La Coulée Verte 7a	wall / crimps / crack	Pepito
on a wall exposed to the South with a tree planted in its middle and a characteristic streak, on the top of the hill, 300m past Le Rocher de la Salamandre, after an old quarry and 20m before La Route du Venin. Climb the wall to the left of the streak with crimps and a thin crack. A prolongation by a 2m traverse on crimps up to the classical start is also possible (7a+). NB : a direct access consists to park the car at the underground aquaduct, to follow La Route de Milly for 1km and then to take La Route du Venin up to the top of the slope.
23	Sentimental 6b+	wall	Pepito
right problem to the left of the crack, on the boulder of La Coulée Verte.
24	La Facilité 5+	wall	Pepito
left problem to the left of the crack, on the boulder of La Coulée Verte.
25	Feuilles de Choux 6c	roof / sitstart	Pepito
in the North face, under the crest, on a boulder with a characteristic roof. Sitstart and exit to the right.
26	- 6a	wall / pockets / expo	-
in the South face, just under the crest, in between Feuilles de Choux and Sublime Privilège. Start in a narrow corridor and climb a wall with jugs.
27	Sublime Privilège 7b+	roof / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault / Francis Hélias
in a roof under the crest, in the South face. Low start and exit to the right or directly. Access : take La Route de Milly for 900m and turn left near La Route du Venin (plot 136).
27b	Petit Privilège 7a	roof / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Sublime Privilège. Sitstart to the left of the overhang as for La Boîte de Pandore and climb the roof directly to the exit of Sublime Privilège.
28	El Gringo 6b	overhang / sitstart	Paul Torruella
on the boulder of Sublime Privilège. Sitstart to the left of the overhang as for La Boîte de Pandore, take the good holds in the overhang and exit in the left wall.
28b	La Boîte de Pandore 7c+	overhang / traverse fltr	Christian Roumégoux
long sequence of moves: start to the left of the classical start of Sublime Privilège, traverse completely around the boulder until the start, and end by climbing the 7b+ again.
29	- 6c	traverse fltr	-
in the South face, just under the crest, on a boulder in between Nouvelle Vague and La Coulée Verte.
30	Nouvelle Vague 7b (7b+)	dyno	Sébastien Frigault
dyno to the right of Besoin d'Elle. Access : from the aquaduct on the D301, follow La Route de Milly for 800m and turn diagonally to the left on a small path; the boulder is against the Rempart after 50m. It is also possible to go to the South face from Petit Tome : the boulder is at the end of the old carrier, 200m further.
31	Besoin d'Elle 7c	dyno / underclings / slopers	Sébastien Frigault
dyno from underclings to the left of Nouvelle Vague. Access : from the aquaduct on the D301, follow La Route de Milly for 800m and turn diagonally to the left on a small path; the boulder is against the Rempart after 50m. It is also possible to go to the South face from Petit Tome : the boulder is at the end of the old carrier, 200m further.
		Outside the topo
Besoin de Couteau 6c		dyno	Bart van Raaij
to the left of Nouvelle Vague, in an old quarry. Start in Besoin d'Elle but finish left with big but sharp holds.
Grain de Folie 7a+		roof / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on an isolated boulder to the East of the sector. Access : park at the right side near the aqueduct coming from Fontainebleau on the N152, climb up the stairs; the problem is in an obvious roof on the top.
Coup de Folie 7c		traverse fltr / roof / expo	Gérald Coste
on the boulder of Grain de Folie, completely to the East of the sector. Start left, low traverse without the pedestal and exit in Grain de Folie.
Douce Folie 6c+ (7a)		traverse fltr / slopers / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of Grain de Folie, completely to the East of the sector. Start left, low traverse in the overhang without using the pedestal and exit in Grain de Folie.
Nino Bello 7a (6c+)		crack / high / sitstart	Gérald Coste / François-Xavier Joubert
2m to the left of Le Concile d'Elvire, in an old quarry, 30m to the left and behind Toiles de Maîtres. Sitstart in z smzll roof, take the crack and exit with good holds.
Le Concile d'Elvire 7c (7c+)		slightly overhanging / high	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
in an old quarry, 30m to the left and behind Toiles de Maîtres. Jump start from the stone to an oblique crimp (without crash-pad), climb the slghtly overhanging wall and exit above.
La Kasbah 6c (6b+)		slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
in the North face, on the crest, 30m above and to the left of Menumental. Sitstart without crash-pad, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle.
Filliatre 6c		wall / sitstart	Bart van Raaij
to the right of Nouvelle Vague, in an old quarry. Sitstart with a big hold near the inscription "Filliatre" and finish with an undercling, crimps and a sloper.

© 1994-2012 bleau.info