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Roche aux Oiseaux : virtual D+

Area description
This sector, with problems of grade 5 to 8, offers an excellent alternative to the often overcrowded Roche aux Sabots, all the more it is connected with Le Rocher de la Ségognole and its PD+, AD+ and TD circuits. From the North-West end of the parking lot of La Roche aux Sabots, follow Le Chemin de la Saussaye for 500m : the first boulders of La Roche aux Oiseaux can be seen on the left. (For the Segognole sector, take a small path on the left for 100m just after the crossing with Le Chemin du Mont Pivot or come from the Route de la Ségognole).

GPS parking lot

Circuit description
This virtual circuit (sometimes with old chalk marks) can be found on pages 64/65 of the topoguide "Au Grès des Trois Pignons" by Jean-Jacques Naëls.


Délire Infantile 5-slab
*****  [ 1 photo ] right slab without the arete, on the first boulder on the South of the area.

La Limousine 5slabNoël Rotillon / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] left slab on the first boulder on the South of the area.

La Conque de droite 4+wallPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] wall without the holds to the left, on the first boulder on the South of the area.

La Conque de gauche 5mantlePhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the first boulder on the South of the area.

Plan de Charge 4slightly overhanging
*****  [ 1 photo ] dévers à rondeurs à gauche d'un petit bloc avec des fougères, au Sud du secteur.
See also: Plan de Charge assis 5

Tango-Bravo 4pillar / pockets
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the opposite of Plan de Charge, on the South of the area.

Le Porte à Faux 5-arete
*****  [ 1 photo ] arete with the left hand on the South face of one of the first boulders.

La Danseuse 4+pillar / sitstartPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the boulder of La Porte à Faux.

Court et Intense 5-wallPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the second boulder to the right of La Danseuse.
See also: Court et Intense assis 6a

10  L'Étroiture 5traverse fltrPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] on a boulder to the West of La Danseuse; exit after the arete.

11  L'Abat-Jour 5-traverse fltrPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 3 photos ] on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Start in Le Petit Toit and exit after the arete on slopers.

12  Le Bibelot 4+slabPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the opposite of Petit Toit, 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite.

13  L'Investiture 4wall / underclingsPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite.

14  Le Presse-Banane 3+wall
*****  [ 2 photos ] on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. To the left of a "hat" on the top of the boulder.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Le Presse-Banane assis 6b

15  Le Perchoir 4-slightly overhanging / sitstart
 [ 7 photos ] 15m to the West of Satan m'Habite.

16  L'Œuf de Poule 5+slightly overhangingPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] round belly to the right of Le Trou Normand, on the second boulder to the West of the roof of Satan m'Habite.

17  Le Trou Normand 4aretePhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 3 photos ] low start on the wall with a big pocket to the left of L'Œuf de Poule, on the second boulder to the West of the roof of Satan m'Habite.

18  Contre-Emploi 5-slab / aretePhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 2 photos ] slab and arete with your left hand
See also:  [ 2 photos ]  Contre-Chant 6a

19  Demi-Lune 4-wall
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the right of the characteristic roof of Satan m'Habite.

20  Pince-Oreille 5 (5+)traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slabPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South face of the boulder of Satan m'Habite. Traverse to the left and exit in the slab using an undercling.

21  Morte-Eau 4-wall / crack / pocketsPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] right problem on the South face of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.

22  Pot de Colle 5 (5+)slabPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] left slab on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.

23  L'Œil qui Rit 4+slabPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] slab with a small slope on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.

24  La Fauvette 5wall / crack
 [ 2 photos ] left problem in the wall of the North-Western face of Le Rouge-Gorge.

25  Le Pigeon 4- (5)wall
*****  [ 1 photo ] exit to the left or direct exit with grade 5, to the right of the South-Eastern face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.

26  La Fastoche 4+slab / high
*****  [ 1 photo ] high slab without the arete, otherwise 3+, to the right of the South-Eastern face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.

27  Haute Voltige 4-wall / highPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on the backside of a characteristic boulder with big pockets.

28  Illusion Caustique 4wall
*****  [ 1 photo ] wall with a big round hole near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, 15m to the South of a characteristic boulder with big pockets.

29  Douleur Hypocrite 4slab
*****  [ 1 photo ] slab with crimps, completely to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye.

30  Iconoclaste 5traverse fltr / aretePhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] exit at the arete for your left hand

31  Rond de Cuir 4+wall / slabPhilippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start with in the face to the right of the corridor (nd of the traverse of La God Off) and exit in the slab.

32  La Fissure 4-crack
*****  [ 1 photo ] 15m to the North-West of characteristic boulder with big pockets near Le Chemin de la Saussaye.

33  La Tire à droite 5-wall
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the right face of the boulder of La Lyre, without the arete.

34  La Lyre 4-crack
*****  [ 3 photos ] evident crack in a corridor, 20m to the East of the roof of Satan m'Habite.

35  L'Oiseau de Paradis 4wall / arete
 [ 2 photos ] eliminating wall with the arete left hand, in the corridor, on the boulder of La Lyre.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  L'Oiseau de Paradis direct 4+

36  La Serrure 4+wall / highNoël Rotillon / Jean-Jacques Naëls
*****  [ 1 photo ] right problem on the face to the opposite of La Lyre, on the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge..

37  Le Boyau 5chimney
 [ 1 photo ] slope on the boulder to the left of La Chouette.

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