Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : Roche aux Oiseaux : Circuit virtual D+

Roche aux Oiseaux : virtual D+

Area description
This sector, with problems of grade 5 to 8, offers an excellent alternative to the often overcrowded Roche aux Sabots, all the more it is connected with Le Rocher de la Ségognole and its PD+, AD+ and TD circuits. From the North-West end of the parking lot of La Roche aux Sabots, follow Le Chemin de la Saussaye for 500m : the first boulders of La Roche aux Oiseaux can be seen on the left. (For the Segognole sector, take a small path on the left for 100m just after the crossing with Le Chemin du Mont Pivot or come from the Route de la Ségognole).

Caution : the numering of the "virtual circuit D+" is independent of that of the online topo.

GPS parking lot

N 48.372929, E 2.510827

Circuit description
This virtual circuit (sometimes with old chalk marks) can be found on pages 64/65 of the topoguide "Au Grès des Trois Pignons" by Jean-Jacques Naëls.

1	Délire Infantile 5-	slab
	right slab without the arete, on the first boulder on the South of the area.
2	La Limousine 5	slab	Noël Rotillon / Pepito
	left slab on the first boulder on the South of the area.
3	La Conque de droite 4+	wall	Blokeur / Pepito
	wall without the holds to the left, on the first boulder on the South of the area.
4	La Conque de gauche 5	mantle	Blokeur / Pepito
	on the first boulder on the South of the area.
5	Plan de Charge 4	slightly overhanging
	dévers à rondeurs à gauche d'un petit bloc avec des fougères, au Sud du secteur. See also: Plan de Charge assis 5
6	Tango-Bravo 4	pillar / pockets
	to the opposite of Plan de Charge, on the South of the area.
7	Le Porte à Faux 5-	arete
	arete with the left hand on the South face of one of the first boulders.
8	La Danseuse 4+	pillar / sitstart	Blokeur / Pepito
	on the backside of the boulder of La Porte à Faux.
9	Court et Intense 5-	wall	Blokeur / Pepito
	on the second boulder to the right of La Danseuse. See also: Court et Intense assis 6a
10	L'Étroiture 5	traverse fltr	Blokeur / Pepito
	on a boulder to the West of La Danseuse; exit after the arete.
11	L'Abat-Jour 5-	traverse fltr	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº2b; on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Start in Le Petit Toit and exit after the arete on slopers.
12	Le Bibelot 4+	slab	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº1; to the opposite of Petit Toit, 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite.
13	L'Investiture 4	wall / underclings	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº6; on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite.
14	Le Presse-Banane 3+	wall
	topo nº7; on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. To the left of a "hat" on the top of the boulder. See also: Le Presse-Banane assis 6b
15	Le Perchoir 4-	slightly overhanging / sitstart
	topo nº41; 15m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
16	L'Œuf de Poule 5+	slightly overhanging	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº42; round belly to the right of Le Trou Normand, on the second boulder to the West of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
17	Le Trou Normand 4	arete	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº43; low start on the wall with a big pocket to the left of L'Œuf de Poule, on the second boulder to the West of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
18	Contre-Emploi 5-	slab / arete	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº46; slab and arete with your left hand. See also: Contre-Chant 6a
19	Demi-Lune 4-	wall
	topo nº33; to the right of the characteristic roof of Satan m'Habite.
20	Pince-Oreille 5 (5+)	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slab	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº37b; on the South face of the boulder of Satan m'Habite. Traverse to the left and exit in the slab using an undercling.
21	Morte-Eau 4-	wall / crack / pockets	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº34; right problem on the South face of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
22	Pot de Colle 5 (5+)	slab	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº38; left slab on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
23	L'Œil qui Rit 4+	slab	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº40; slab with a small slope on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
24	La Fauvette 5	wall / crack
	topo nº17; left problem in the wall of the North-Western face of Le Rouge-Gorge.
25	Le Pigeon 5+	wall
	topo nº18; exit to the left or direct exit with grade 5, to the right of the South-Eastern face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
26	La Fastoche 4+	slab / high
	topo nº12; high slab without the arete, otherwise 3+, to the right of the South-Eastern face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
27	Haute Voltige 4-	wall / high	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº27; to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on the backside of a characteristic boulder with big pockets.
28	Illusion Caustique 4	wall
	wall with a big round hole near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, 15m to the South of a characteristic boulder with big pockets.
29	Douleur Hypocrite 4	wall
	completely to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye.
30	Iconoclaste 5	traverse fltr / arete	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº28; to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start to the left of the angle, pass under a small roof and traverse diagonally to the right with the arete left hand before the exit of Le Pic Vert. See also: La God Off 7a
31	Rond de Cuir 4+	wall / slab	Blokeur / Pepito
	topo nº31; to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start with in the face to the right of the corridor (nd of the traverse of La God Off) and exit in the slab.
32	La Fissure 4-	crack
	topo nº26; 15m to the North-West of characteristic boulder with big pockets near Le Chemin de la Saussaye.
33	La Tire à droite 5-	wall
	topo nº24; on the right face of the boulder of La Lyre, without the arete.
34	La Lyre 4-	crack
	topo nº22; evident crack in a corridor, 20m to the East of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
35	L'Oiseau de Paradis 4	wall / arete
	topo nº21; eliminating wall with the arete left hand, in the corridor, on the boulder of La Lyre. See also: L'Oiseau de Paradis direct 4+
36	La Serrure 4+	wall / high	Noël Rotillon / Pepito
	topo nº15; right problem on the face to the opposite of La Lyre, on the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge..
37	Le Boyau 5	chimney
	topo nº82; slope on the boulder to the left of La Chouette.