Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : Roche aux Oiseaux : Circuit virtual D+

Roche aux Oiseaux : virtual D+

Area description
This sector, with problems of grade 5 to 8, offers an excellent alternative to the often overcrowded Roche aux Sabots, all the more it is connected with Le Rocher de la Ségognole and its PD+, AD+ and TD circuits. From the North-West end of the parking lot of La Roche aux Sabots, follow Le Chemin de la Saussaye for 500m : the first boulders of La Roche aux Oiseaux can be seen on the left. (For the Segognole sector, take a small path on the left for 100m just after the crossing with Le Chemin du Mont Pivot or come from the Route de la Ségognole).

GPS parking lot

N 48.372929, E 2.510827

Circuit description
This virtual circuit (sometimes with old chalk marks) can be found on pages 64/65 of the topoguide "Au Grès des Trois Pignons" by Jean-Jacques Naëls.

1	Délire Infantile 5-	slab
	right slab without the arete, on the first boulder on the South of the area.
2	La Limousine 5	slab	Noël Rotillon / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	left slab on the first boulder on the South of the area.
3	La Conque de droite 4+	wall	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	wall without the holds to the left, on the first boulder on the South of the area.
4	La Conque de gauche 5	mantle	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	on the first boulder on the South of the area.
5	Plan de Charge 4	slightly overhanging
	dévers à rondeurs à gauche d'un petit bloc avec des fougères, au Sud du secteur. See also: Plan de Charge assis 5
6	Tango-Bravo 4	pillar / pockets
	to the opposite of Plan de Charge, on the South of the area.
7	Le Porte à Faux 5-	arete
	arete with the left hand on the South face of one of the first boulders.
8	La Danseuse 4+	pillar / sitstart	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	on the backside of the boulder of La Porte à Faux.
9	Court et Intense 5-	wall	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	on the second boulder to the right of La Danseuse. See also: Court et Intense assis 6a
10	L'Étroiture 5	traverse fltr	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	on a boulder to the West of La Danseuse; exit after the arete.
11	L'Abat-Jour 5-	traverse fltr	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. Start in Le Petit Toit and exit after the arete on slopers.
12	Le Bibelot 4+	slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	to the opposite of Petit Toit, 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite.
13	L'Investiture 4	wall / underclings	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite.
14	Le Presse-Banane 3+	wall
	on a boulder 20m to the South-East of Satan m'Habite. To the left of a "hat" on the top of the boulder. See also: Le Presse-Banane assis 6b
15	Le Perchoir 4-	slightly overhanging / sitstart
	15m to the West of Satan m'Habite.
16	L'Œuf de Poule 5+	slightly overhanging	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	round belly to the right of Le Trou Normand, on the second boulder to the West of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
17	Le Trou Normand 4	arete	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	low start on the wall with a big pocket to the left of L'Œuf de Poule, on the second boulder to the West of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
18	Contre-Emploi 5-	slab / arete	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	slab and arete with your left hand See also: Contre-Chant 6a
19	Demi-Lune 4-	wall
	to the right of the characteristic roof of Satan m'Habite.
20	Pince-Oreille 5 (5+)	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	on the South face of the boulder of Satan m'Habite. Traverse to the left and exit in the slab using an undercling.
21	Morte-Eau 4-	wall / crack / pockets	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	right problem on the South face of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
22	Pot de Colle 5 (5+)	slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	left slab on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
23	L'Œil qui Rit 4+	slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	slab with a small slope on the backside of the boulder of Satan m'Habite.
24	La Fauvette 5	wall / crack
	left problem in the wall of the North-Western face of Le Rouge-Gorge.
25	Le Pigeon 4- (5)	wall
	exit to the left or direct exit with grade 5, to the right of the South-Eastern face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
26	La Fastoche 4+	slab / high
	high slab without the arete, otherwise 3+, to the right of the South-Eastern face of the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge.
27	Haute Voltige 4-	wall / high	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on the backside of a characteristic boulder with big pockets.
28	Illusion Caustique 4	wall
	wall with a big round hole near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, 15m to the South of a characteristic boulder with big pockets.
29	Douleur Hypocrite 4	slab
	slab with crimps, completely to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye.
30	Iconoclaste 5	traverse fltr / arete	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	exit at the arete for your left hand
31	Rond de Cuir 4+	wall / slab	Philippe Leduby / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start with in the face to the right of the corridor (nd of the traverse of La God Off) and exit in the slab.
32	La Fissure 4-	crack
	15m to the North-West of characteristic boulder with big pockets near Le Chemin de la Saussaye.
33	La Tire à droite 5-	wall
	on the right face of the boulder of La Lyre, without the arete.
34	La Lyre 4-	crack
	evident crack in a corridor, 20m to the East of the roof of Satan m'Habite.
35	L'Oiseau de Paradis 4	wall / arete
	eliminating wall with the arete left hand, in the corridor, on the boulder of La Lyre. See also: L'Oiseau de Paradis direct 4+
36	La Serrure 4+	wall / high	Noël Rotillon / Jean-Jacques Naëls
	right problem on the face to the opposite of La Lyre, on the boulder of Le Rouge-Gorge..
37	Le Boyau 5	chimney
	slope on the boulder to the left of La Chouette.