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Area description
This sector, with problems of grade 5 to 8, offers an excellent alternative to the often overcrowded Roche aux Sabots, all the more it is connected with Le Rocher de la Ségognole and its PD+, AD+ and TD circuits. From the North-West end of the parking lot of La Roche aux Sabots, follow Le Chemin de la Saussaye for 500m : the first boulders of La Roche aux Oiseaux can be seen on the left. (For the Segognole sector, take a small path on the left for 100m just after the crossing with Le Chemin du Mont Pivot or come from the Route de la Ségognole).
Caution : the numering of the "virtual circuit D+" is independent of that of the online topo.
GPS parking lot
Circuit description
This virtual circuit (sometimes with old chalk marks) can be found on pages 64/65 of the topoguide "Au Grès des Trois Pignons" by Jean-Jacques Naëls.
| 1 | Délire Infantile 5- | slab | |
| 2 | La Limousine 5 | slab | Noël Rotillon / Pepito |
| 3 | La Conque de droite 4+ | wall | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 4 | La Conque de gauche 5 | mantle | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 5 | Plan de Charge 4 | slightly overhanging | |
See also: Plan de Charge assis 5 | |||
| 6 | Tango-Bravo 4 | pillar / pockets | |
| 7 | Le Porte à Faux 5- | arete | |
| 8 | La Danseuse 4+ | pillar / sitstart | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 9 | Court et Intense 5- | wall | Blokeur / Pepito |
See also: Court et Intense assis 6a | |||
| 10 | L'Étroiture 5 | traverse fltr | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 11 | L'Abat-Jour 5- | traverse fltr | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 12 | Le Bibelot 4+ | slab | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 13 | L'Investiture 4 | wall / underclings | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 14 | Le Presse-Banane 3+ | wall | |
See also: | |||
| 15 | Le Perchoir 4- | slightly overhanging / sitstart | |
| 16 | L'Œuf de Poule 5+ | slightly overhanging | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 17 | Le Trou Normand 4 | arete | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 18 | Contre-Emploi 5- | slab / arete | Blokeur / Pepito |
See also: | |||
| 19 | Demi-Lune 4- | wall | |
| 20 | Pince-Oreille 5 (5+) | traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / slab | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 21 | Morte-Eau 4- | wall / crack / pockets | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 22 | Pot de Colle 5 (5+) | slab | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 23 | L'Œil qui Rit 4+ | slab | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 24 | La Fauvette 5 | wall / crack | |
| 25 | Le Pigeon 5+ | wall | |
| 26 | La Fastoche 4+ | slab / high | |
| 27 | Haute Voltige 4- | wall / high | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 28 | Illusion Caustique 4 | wall | |
| 29 | Douleur Hypocrite 4 | wall | |
| completely to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye. | |||
| 30 | Iconoclaste 5 | traverse fltr / arete | Blokeur / Pepito |
| topo nº28; to the East of the sector, near Le Chemin de la Saussaye, on a characteristic boulder with big pockets. Start to the left of the angle, pass under a small roof and traverse diagonally to the right with the arete left hand before the exit of
Le Pic Vert. See also: | |||
| 31 | Rond de Cuir 4+ | wall / slab | Blokeur / Pepito |
| 32 | La Fissure 4- | crack | |
| 33 | La Tire à droite 5- | wall | |
| 34 | La Lyre 4- | crack | |
| 35 | L'Oiseau de Paradis 4 | wall / arete | |
See also: | |||
| 36 | La Serrure 4+ | wall / high | Noël Rotillon / Pepito |
| 37 | Le Boyau 5 | chimney | |
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