Bleau.info : Éléphant Ouest : Topo

thanks to Philippe Le Denmat

This sector is mostly constituted of high boulders in a shady part of the forest. From the parking lot of L'Éléphant, follow the GR13 and continue for 250m after the characteristic boulder of Le Gruyère (end of the black circuit). The first problems can then be found just above the path. It is also possible to continue on a path on the right of the hill and go up the slope when the first boulders are visible (recommended for coming back to the parking lot).

1	Da Capo 7b+ (7c)	pillar / slopers / expo	Manuel Marquès
100m underneath and slightly to the right of Gargamel. Direct version is 7c (7b+ using holds on the right).
2	La Gonflée 6b	wall / high	-
right problem on the boulder of Transpotting, above the GR (first high boulder of the sector).
3	Super Tanker 5	wall / high	-
to the right of the crack of Elephant Man, on the first high boulder of the sector.
4	Elephant Man 6c	crack	-
crack to the right of Transpotting, above the GR, on the first high boulder of the sector.
4	Elephant Man assis 7a+	crack / sitstart / high	-
to the right of Transpotting, above the GR, on the first high boulder of the sector. Sitstart to the left with the two hands on an oblique crimp, traverse to the dihedral and exit by the high crack of Elephant Man.
5	Transpotting 7c	prow / overhang / high	Daniel Dulac
to the right of Gargamel.
6	Gargamel 7c	overhang / high	Thierry Guéguen
to the right and above the GR 13, on the first (5m) high boulder of Elephant West, 3m to the left of Transpotting.
7	Jaws 7b	slightly overhanging / crimps / expo	Yano Salaün
slightly overhanging wall 50m to the right of Le Grand Toit, just under Pas de Panique. Start in the pit and exit by a mantle to the left on jugs.
8	La Dernière Chance 6b (6c)	prow	-
right problem on the East face of the plateau, above the GR, 50m before Le Grand Toit.
8	La Dernière Chance assis 7a	prow / sitstart	Thomas Jaffry / Gérald Coste
right problem on the East face of the plateau, above the GR, 50m before Le Grand Toit. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with bidoigts and exit via the prow of La Dernière Chance.
9	Pas de Panique 6c	wall / crimps	-
wall with big crimps 40m to the right of Le Grand Toit. Direct exit (6b with the left arete).
9b	Pas de Panique gauche 6b	wall / arete / crimps	-
wall with big crimps 40m to the right of Le Grand Toit. Start as for Pas de Panique, but exit with the left arete.
10	Grosminet 7b	roof / sitstart	Alain Dupas
to the right of Le Grand Toit. Sitstart to the left of the small boulder marked "E" (without that one) and exit directly in the dihedral before the exit as for Un Jeu pour Toit. NB : first known realization by Alain Dupas.
10	Hors la Loi 8a	roof / traverse frtl	Pascal Thomas
integral traverse in the roof of Le Grand Toit. Sitstart in Grosminet, climb this one, traverse to the left for 2m, downclimb Le Grand Toit and continue by Sans Toit ni Loi.
10	La Traversée aux Deux Colonnes 7c+	traverse fltr / roof	-
sitstart on the flat stone at the exit of Splatch with a jug right hand, traverse to the right on slopers, downclimb the first rail, low traverse to the start of Air Sweden, climb the right rail, traverse to the right and exit at the end, in a dihedral with the character "E".
10	Un Jeu pour Toit 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr	-
sitstart on the flat stone at the exit of Splatch with a jug right hand, traverse to the right on slopers and exit at the end, in a dihedral above the small boulder with the character "E".
11	El Àcrata 8a+	loop / roof	Max
start at the right of the exit of the roof, traverse left, downclimb le grand toit, traverse left, halfway up in crack, traverse right till Le Grand Toit, exit in that one.
11	La Boucle du Facteur Premier 7c+	roof / traverse	Max / Alain Denis
start at the exit jug of Le Grand Toit, downclimb the trail, traverse as for Sans Toit ni Loi but continue to the start of Splatch, low traverse to the right and exit in Le Grand Toit
11	Le Grand Toit 7a (6c+)	roof / mantle	-
at the border of the ridge, on the left side along the GR 13, 100m past La Dalle à Poly (end of the black circuit, on the boulder of Le Gruyère). Start low, and exit to the right by a mantle.
12	Air Sweden 7b+	roof / dyno / sitstart	Stefan Pettersson
sitstart 1m to the right of Splatch with left hand in an obvious pocket and right hand on a crimp, make a dyno out to the right big rail, follow this one for a few moves, traverse to the left and exit in Splatch.
12	Air Sweden rallongé 7c+ (7c)	roof / dyno / traverse	-
sitstart completely left in Sherpa, low traverse for 3m to the start of Air Sweden and follow that one by a big dyno the right trail, traverse to the left and exit in Splatch.
12	Équivogue 7a+	overhang / mantle / sitstart	François Louvel
on the boulder of Le Grand Toit, at the border of the ridge, on the left side along the GR 13, 100m past La Dalle à Poly (end of the black circuit, on the boulder of Le Gruyère). Sitstart under the roof, take the central "colonnette" and exit by the mantle of Le Grand Toit.
12	Jeu d'Été 8b (8a+)	roof / loop	Pascal Gagneux
long combination on the boulder of Le Grand Toit. Start as for Sans Toit ni Loi but traverse on the ledge at the exit, downclimb Splatch using the trails up to the start of Air Sweden, climb that one and exit in Le Grand Toit.
12	La Traversée de Sans Toit ni Loi 8a	roof / traverse frtl	Thierry Plaud
start with the two hands in the big jug to the left of the roof, low traverse to the right for 5m up to the start of Sans Toit ni Loi ad continue by that problem.
12	La Traversée du Splatch 7b+	roof / traverse	-
on the boulder of Le Grand Toit. Start with the two hands in the big jug to the left of the roof, low traverse to the right for 5m up to the start of Splatch and continue in that one.
12	Le Splatch de Grosminet 7c	roof / traverse / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Le Grand Toit. Sitstart to the left of the small boulder marked "E" (without that one), traverse to the left and continue in Splatch.
12	Sans Toit ni Loi 7c+ (8a)	roof / traverse frtl	Olivier Roman
in the roof of Le Grand Toit. Standing start at the column of Splatch, dyno to the left, continue to traverse in the roof up to Sherpa and exit in that one, or on its left.
12	Splatch 7b (7b+)	roof / sitstart	Greg Sobczak
on the boulder of Le Grand Toit. La Dalle à Poly (end of the black circuit, on the boulder of Le Gruyère). --> Sitstart and climb the central "colonnette" as for Équivogue, but exit by traversing left along the lip.
13	Embuscade 7c+	traverse	-
start on the ledge of Le Grand Toit, climb down the two "colonnettes" to the base, traverse to the left for 2m, then up in the roof, traverse to the colonnettes and exit in Le Grand Toit.
13	La Tête dans les Nuages 8a	traverse	Thierry Guéguen
start at the ledge of Le Grand Toit (6c+), traverse to the left to the big crack, climb down via this crack, low traverse for 2m, then up in the roof, traverse to the colonnettes and exit in Le Grand Toit as in the end of Embuscade.
13	Sherpa 7c+	roof / monos	Francis Hélias
at the left of Le Grand Toit. Sitstart completely left, climb the overhang up to a sloper, take a monodoigt on the left and exit using crimps.
13	Sherpa et Plus si Affinités 7c+	roof / traverse	Thierry Guéguen
standing start at the column of Splatch as for Sans Toit ni Loi, low traverse to the start of Sherpa and exit in that one.
14	Surprise sur Prise 6a	arete	-
arete right hand just under the plateau, at the beginning of a corridor.
15	Coup de Soleil 6c (7a)	arete / sitstart	Rémi Perinet / Gérald Coste
just under the plateau, at the beginning of a corridor. Sitstart, climb the right side of the arete of Surprise sur Prise and exit with a bad crimp right hand.
16	Saut de Puce 5+	wall / slab	-
above a corridor, just before the arete of La Chamoniarde, under the plateau.
17	La Retraite Anticipée 5+	arete / expo	-
arete right hand above a corridor, just before the slab of La Muraille de Chine, under the plateau.
18	La Chamoniarde 5+ (6a)	arete / expo	-
arete left hand above a corridor, just before the slab of La Muraille de Chine, under the plateau.
19	La Muraille de Chine 5+ (6a)	slab / high	-
high slab at the end of a corridor, just after the arete of La Chamoniarde, under the plateau.
20	La Rampataplan 6a	arete / wall / slopers	-
ascending ramp on the North face of a boulder near the top of the sector, under the plateau.
21	Chocolaté 3	slab / mantle	-
small slab on the North face of a boulder in between the prow of La Désuette and the ramp of La Rampataplan.
22	La Désuette 5	prow	-
small prow above the boulder of Le Spectre.
23	Le Lézard 6b	wall	-
on the boulder to the opposite of Nerfs à Vif.
24	Nerfs à Vif 7a+	overhang / prow	Eric Létot
on the boulder above Le Requin and Cœur de Lion. Start in the overhang 1m50 to the left of Le Spectre and exit via the prow.
25	Didicace 7c	arete / slightly overhanging	Christian Roumégoux
in memoriam of Didier Benjamin; to the right of Nerfs à Vif.
26	Le Spectre 6c+	wall / mantle / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
on the boulder above Le Requin and Cœur de Lion. Start 1m50 to the right of Nerfs à Vif, climb the crimpsy wall diagonally to the right and exit above a small boulder.
27	P'tête à Deux Mains? 7c+ (8a)	sitstart / prow / slopers	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart of the small prow to the opposite and somewhat above Cœur de Lion.
28	Désengagé 7a	wall / mantle	Stéphan Denys / Laurent Darlot
on the backside of Cœur de Lion, on the boulder of "Le Requin".
28	Désengagé assis 7a+	wall / mantle / sitstart	Stéphan Denys / Laurent Darlot
on the backside of Cœur de Lion, on the boulder of "Le Requin". Sitstart and exit in Désengagé.
29	Ode à Did 7a	sitstart / monos / expo	Thierry Guéguen
in memoriam of Didier Benjamin, on the left side of the arete of L'Aileron du Requin. Sitstart 1m to the left of the arete, climb the wall using the arete right hand, take a monodoigt and exit with a crack.
30	L'Aileron du Requin 7a	arete / mantle / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
2m to the left of Cœur de Lion. Start just right of the arete and exit by a mantle.
31	Cœur de Lion 7a	wall / crimps / high	Philippe Le Denmat
2m to the right of L'Aileron du Requin.
31	Cœur de Lion assis 7a+	wall / crimps / sitstart	Dennis Teijsse
sitstart (by the right) of Cœur de Lion, on the boulder of Le Requin, 2m to the right of L'Aileron du Requin.
31b	Haut de Forme 7b (7a+)	wall	-
start as for Cœur de Lion but exit to the right (slightly eliminating).
32	La Détente Rapide 6c+	wall / crimps	-
right problem on the South face of the boulder to the opposite of Cœur de Lion.
33	L'Amuse Doigts 6c	slab / crimps	-
central problem on the South face of the boulder to the opposite of Cœur de Lion.
34	Décollage Immédiat 5	slab	-
left problem on the South face of the boulder to the opposite of Cœur de Lion.
35	Comme il vous Plaira 7a	wall / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
50m to the left and underneath L'Aileron du Requin. Sitstart in the pit with a monodoigt left hand as for Pac et Tri but exit to the right of the arete.
35	Pac et Tri 7b	pillar / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
50m to the left and underneath L'Aileron du Requin. Sitstart in the pit with a monodoigt left hand as for Comme il vous Plaira but traverse to the left with the crack and exit via the round arete. Update (August 2009) : the sitstart seems to have become much more difficult since a hold broke off.
36	Lune et Tri 6c (7a)	crack / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
50m to the left and underneath L'Aileron du Requin. Sitstart in the pit with a monodoigt left hand as for Pac et Tri and climb the oblique crack to the left of the prow. Update (August 2009) : the sitstart seems to have become much more difficult since a hold broke off.
		Outside the topo
Le Cosmoschtroumpf 7b (7a+)		slightly overhanging / mantle / high	Thierry Guéguen
on the right face of the bouder of Gargamel. Start under a big jug, use it to climb the overhang and exit by a mantle at the top, above a boulder on the ground.
Azraël et le Cosmoschtroumpf 7b (7b+)		slightly overhanging / traverse fltr / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on the right face of the bouder of Gargamel. Begin with crimps 2m to the left of the start of Le Cosmoschtroumpf, traverse to the right to climb this problem up to the ledge, but continue to traverse on it and exit by a mantle after the "nose".

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