Bleau.info : Rocher du Mauvais Passage : Topo

thanks to Bart van Raaij

From the Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau, take the RN 125 in direction of Orléans for 3km and park at a barreer on the left side of the road. Follow the Route de Valmy for 200m; the first boulders are in the slope above the Route du Mauvais Passage.

1	Capitaine Crochet 7c	wall	Stéphane Brette
above La Route du Mauvais Passage, to the right of Peter Pan. (GPS: N48.380800 E2.659200)
2	Peter Pan 7b+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / dyno	Philippe Dumez
above La Route du Mauvais Passage, to the left of Capitaine Crochet. (GPS: N48.380800 E2.659200)
4	L'Oreille de la Priscille 6c+ (7a)	wall / high	Bruno Ritz
on the boulder to the right of Peter Pan. Start to the left and exit over the overhang.
4'	La Directe de l'Oreille 7a+ (7a)	overhang / high	Thierry Guéguen / Didier Gérardin
on the boulder to the right of Peter Pan. Direct start of L'Oreille de la Priscille (without using the left hold).
4''	Ecstatica 7a	wall / expo / sitstart	Christophe Perruchon
sitstart in the little cave to the right of L'Oreille de la Priscille and exit at the same point of that one.
5	Turbolax 7b (7a+)	crack / slightly overhanging / high	Stéphan Denys
on a high boulder with an oak, 80m to the left and beyond Peter Pan. (GPS: N48.380700 E2.659900)
6	Vol à la Tire 7c+	dyno / crimps	Marc Le Ménestrel
30m underneath and to the left of L'Afrique.
7	Nadine... 7a	wall / crack	Bruno Ritz
along La Route du Faune, to the left of L'Afrique.
8	L'Afrique 7a+	wall / crimps / expo	Stéphan Denys
wall to the left of Nadine. Exit to the top with the big bowl left hand (direct exit is 7b+). NB : the boulder was named after the shape of a map of Africa that can be seen on the boulder.
8'	L'Afrique direct 7b+	wall / crimps / high	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder just right of Nadine. Direct version of L'Afrique without the big bowl on the left.
		Outside the topo
Cagliostro 6c (7a)		overhang / dyno	David Evrard / Stéphan Denys
on the crest above and slightly left of L'Afrique.
Arrache-Toit 6b (6c)		crack / sitstart	David Evrard / Stéphan Denys
sitstart of the crack just left of Cagliostro, on the crest above and slightly left of L'Afrique.
Cica B5 7b+		slightly overhanging / slopers / high	David Evrard
on a high boulder with an oak, 80m to the left and beyond Peter Pan. Start with the undercling of Turbolax and exit to the left on slopers.
Le Pan Mini 5		wall	Frédéric Buc
wall on the right face of the boulder of Le Pan ne Suffit Pas. Access : follow La Route de Valmy for 50m and go up the slope to the right towards an evident big boulder; the problem is just behind.
Le Pan c'est Bête 6b		slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart at the white points as for Le Pan ne Suffit Pas, take the crack on the right and exit by a mantle in the face. Access : follow La Route de Valmy for 50m and go up the slope to the right towards an evident big boulder; the problem is just behind.
Le Pan se Crasse 6b		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart at the white points as for Le Pan ne Suffit Pas, take the crack on the right and exit in Le Pan Mini. Access : follow La Route de Valmy for 50m and go up the slope to the right towards an evident big boulder; the problem is just behind.
Pan-Pan Cul-Cul 6c (6c+)		slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart at the white points as for Le Pan ne Suffit Pas but exit by a mantle directly above. Access : follow La Route de Valmy for 50m and go up the slope to the right towards an evident big boulder; the problem is just behind.
Le Pan ne Suffit Pas 7a+		slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on an boulder close to the parking lot. Sitstsrt at the white points with the two hands on a crimp, take the jug and exit to the left with the bidoigt left hand. Access : follow La Route de Valmy for 50m and go up the slope to the right towards an evident big boulder; the problem is just behind.

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