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Petit Bois : black ED+ (n°5)

Area description
In Saint-Pierre lès-Nemours (easily accessible from Larchant by the D16), take the Rue des Hêtres and follow a path for 300m. The circuits are close to the parking lot.

GPS parking lot

GPS start of the circuit


Préchauffe 5slab / slopersBernard Théret
topo nº1; just right of the angle.

La Ballade de Jim 7atraverse frtl / bidoigtBernard Théret
***** topo nº2; start to the right of Big Jim, traverse on bidoigts, pass the angle and exit to the left of the second face after the crack.

2 bis T Comme Tarzan 7a+high / wallEmmanuel Ratouis
 [ 1 photo ] topo nº2bis; to the left of blue n°5, on the boulder of Big Jim.

Passage à l'Acte 7a+wall / bidoigt / expoPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 6 photos ] topo nº3; to the right of Big Jim.

Big Jim 6c (6c+)high / monos / pocketsBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 10 photos ] topo nº4; situated near the road, utterly right on the big boulder; top rope bolt is in place.

Le Dolmen 6ctraverse frtl / pocketsBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº5; on the boulder facing La Baleine. Start on the right, traverse on pockets and exit in red n°5.
NB : the chipped bidoigt before the big sloper can be avoided...


Rataplazip 6b+pockets / mantle / slopersBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº6; direct problem before the end of the traverse of black n°5.

La Baleine 7a (7a+)prow / slopersBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 5 photos ] topo nº7; slightly overhanging prow above the start of the circuits.

Le Triangle d'Or 6btraverse frtl / wallBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº8; traverse to the left and exit in the center of the wall, before red n°8 (6a+ by exiting in that one).

Remise à l'Heure 6a (6a+)traverse fltr / areteBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nº9; start on the left of the dihedral traverse to the right and exit via the arete.

10  Big Ben 6a+traverse fltr / wallBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº10; traverse to the right and exit to the right of red n°12.

11  Le Casse Tibia 6bwall / crimpsBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] topo nº11; mur demandant de l'allonge.

12  Les Petits Vérins 6a+slightly overhanging / areteBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº12; characteristic overhanging arete on the left of the sector. Sitstart is 6c.
See also: Envolage 6c

13  Parapente 6bwallBernard Théret
***** topo nº13; in a belly.

14  Le GR Bloc 6btraverse fltr / wallBernard Théret
topo nº14; above the GR. Traverse to the right and exit in the wall.

15  Les Douves 6cwall / pocketsBernard Théret
***** topo nº15; traverse to the right on a face with characteristic pockets and exit after the angle.

16  Le Bi-Blocs 6btraverse fltrBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] topo nº16; traverse to the right on two consecutive boulders. Lichnenous (July 2009).

17  Bidoigt pour Monocéphale 6ctraverse frtl / bidoigtBernard Théret
topo nº17; along the GR13. Traverse to the left and exit via the arete.

18  L'Escalier 6a+traverse fltrBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº18; traverse to the right along the path, near the stairs.

19  L'angle Mobil 6b+areteBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº19; smooth wall-arete to the left of Le Doigt Carré (black n°20).

20  Le Doigt Carré 6b+wallBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº20; in the center of a wall with an overhanging start.

21  Le Rebord Retors 7atraverse fltr / slopersBernard Théret
 [ 1 photo ] topo nº21; near the top of the hill.
Update : the traverse is mossed (June 2006).


22  La Prise Clé 7atraverse fltr / wall / areteBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº22; traverse crossing the arete to the right of Rebord Retors.
NB : recently brushed (June 2006).


23  L'Emoréta 6bareteBernard Théret
topo nº23; on the left angle of the boulder of Le Pro-Pulse.

24  Ligne de Force 6b+wall / crackBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº24; on the left of Le Pro-Pulse.

24 bis Le Pro-Pulse 7a+wall / crimps / dynoBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] topo nº24bis; dyno on slopers from small crimps.

25  Sur-Prise 6b+wallBernard Théret
***** topo nº25; on the right of Le Pro-Pulse.

26  Le Plat Pays 6b+wall / slopersBernard Théret
topo nº26; behind the right angle on the boulder of Le Pro-Pulse.

27  Les Vacances à Bombay 6c+ (7a)wall / slopers / mantleBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 4 photos ] topo nº27; on the left face of the boulder of Le Mur du Son. Start with crimps and exit by a mantle on slopers.

28  Élongation 6bwall / underclingsBernard Théret
***** topo nº28; to the right of Les Vacances à Bombay.

29  Machine à Jambon 6ctraverse frtl / crimpsBernard Théret
topo nº29; start at Élongation, low traverse and exit to the left of Les Vacances à Bombay.

30  L'Angle Rotulien 6b+ (6b)areteBernard Théret
***** topo nº30; arete between the faces of Les Vacances à Bombay and Le Mur du Son.

31  La Cruxi-Fiction 6cwallBernard Théret
*****  [ 3 photos ] topo nº31; just left of Le Mur du Son.

31 bis Le Mur du Son 7c (7b+)wall / crimpsBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº31bis; to the left of Arc Angel, in a corridor.

32  Angle et Terre 6b+wall / areteBernard Théret
***** topo nº33bis; completely right, on the face of Le Mur du Son.

32 bis Les Beaux Quartiers 6b+wall / highBernard Théret
topo nº32; just right of Le Mur du Son.

32 ter Arc Angel 7awallBernard Théret
***** topo nº32bis; ascending traverse to the left of black n°32; same exit as for Le Mur du Son.

33  Vengeance du Triceps 6b+slightly overhanging / slopersBernard Théret
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº33; at the end of the corridor along the face of Le Mur du Son.

34  Des Pieds et des Mains 6a+wall / slopersBernard Théret
***** topo nº34; on the boulder above Le Mur du Son.

35  Travaux Forcés 7btraverse fltr / crimpsBernard Théret
 [ 2 photos ] topo nº35bis; near the top of the hill, on a slowly drying boulder. Start in the left of corridor as for black n°35, low traverse with crimps and exit in red n°49, via the right arete.

36  Le Chat de Gouttière 6b+slopers / mantleBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº36; mantle on a smooth ramp at the top of the sector.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Le Chat Noir 6c (7a)

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