Bleau.info : Areas ~ Circuits : Petit Bois : Circuit black ED+ (n°5)

Petit Bois : black ED+ (n°5)

Area description
In Saint-Pierre lès-Nemours (easily accessible from Larchant by the D16), take the Rue des Hêtres and follow a path for 300m. The circuits are close to the parking lot.

GPS parking lot

N 48.264114, E 2.670390

GPS start of the circuit

N 48.263876, E 2.670155

1	Préchauffe 5	slab / slopers	Bernard Théret
	topo nº1; just right of the angle.
2	La Ballade de Jim 7a	traverse frtl / bidoigt	Bernard Théret
	topo nº2; start to the right of Big Jim, traverse on bidoigts, pass the angle and exit to the left of the second face after the crack.
2 bis	T Comme Tarzan 7a+	high / wall	Emmanuel Ratouis
	topo nº2bis; to the left of blue n°5, on the boulder of Big Jim.
3	Passage à l'Acte 7a+	wall / bidoigt / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
	topo nº3; to the right of Big Jim.
4	Big Jim 6c (6c+)	high / monos / pockets	Bernard Théret
	topo nº4; situated near the road, utterly right on the big boulder; top rope bolt is in place.
5	Le Dolmen 6c	traverse frtl / pockets	Bernard Théret
	topo nº5; on the boulder facing La Baleine. Start on the right, traverse on pockets and exit in red n°5. NB : the chipped bidoigt before the big sloper can be avoided...
6	Rataplazip 6b+	pockets / mantle / slopers	Bernard Théret
	topo nº6; direct problem before the end of the traverse of black n°5.
7	La Baleine 7a (7a+)	prow / slopers	Bernard Théret
	topo nº7; slightly overhanging prow above the start of the circuits.
8	Le Triangle d'Or 6b	traverse frtl / wall	Bernard Théret
	topo nº8; traverse to the left and exit in the center of the wall, before red n°8 (6a+ by exiting in that one).
9	Remise à l'Heure 6a (6a+)	traverse fltr / arete	Bernard Théret
	topo nº9; start on the left of the dihedral traverse to the right and exit via the arete.
10	Big Ben 6a+	traverse fltr / wall	Bernard Théret
	topo nº10; traverse to the right and exit to the right of red n°12.
11	Le Casse Tibia 6b	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
	topo nº11; mur demandant de l'allonge.
12	Les Petits Vérins 6a+	slightly overhanging / arete	Bernard Théret
	topo nº12; characteristic overhanging arete on the left of the sector. Sitstart is 6c. See also: Envolage 6c
13	Parapente 6b	wall	Bernard Théret
	topo nº13; in a belly.
14	Le GR Bloc 6b	traverse fltr / wall	Bernard Théret
	topo nº14; above the GR. Traverse to the right and exit in the wall.
15	Les Douves 6c	wall / pockets	Bernard Théret
	topo nº15; traverse to the right on a face with characteristic pockets and exit after the angle.
16	Le Bi-Blocs 6b	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
	topo nº16; traverse to the right on two consecutive boulders. Lichnenous (July 2009).
17	Bidoigt pour Monocéphale 6c	traverse frtl / bidoigt	Bernard Théret
	topo nº17; along the GR13. Traverse to the left and exit via the arete.
18	L'Escalier 6a+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
	topo nº18; traverse to the right along the path, near the stairs.
19	L'angle Mobil 6b+	arete	Bernard Théret
	topo nº19; smooth wall-arete to the left of Le Doigt Carré (black n°20).
20	Le Doigt Carré 6b+	wall	Bernard Théret
	topo nº20; in the center of a wall with an overhanging start.
21	Le Rebord Retors 7a	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
	topo nº21; near the top of the hill. Update : the traverse is mossed (June 2006).
22	La Prise Clé 7a	traverse fltr / wall / arete	Bernard Théret
	topo nº22; traverse crossing the arete to the right of Rebord Retors. NB : recently brushed (June 2006).
23	L'Emoréta 6b	arete	Bernard Théret
	topo nº23; on the left angle of the boulder of Le Pro-Pulse.
24	Ligne de Force 6b+	wall / crack	Bernard Théret
	topo nº24; on the left of Le Pro-Pulse.
24 bis	Le Pro-Pulse 7a+	wall / crimps / dyno	Bernard Théret
	topo nº24bis; dyno on slopers from small crimps.
25	Sur-Prise 6b+	wall	Bernard Théret
	topo nº25; on the right of Le Pro-Pulse.
26	Le Plat Pays 6b+	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
	topo nº26; behind the right angle on the boulder of Le Pro-Pulse.
27	Les Vacances à Bombay 6c+ (7a)	wall / slopers / mantle	Bernard Théret
	topo nº27; on the left face of the boulder of Le Mur du Son. Start with crimps and exit by a mantle on slopers.
28	Élongation 6b	wall / underclings	Bernard Théret
	topo nº28; to the right of Les Vacances à Bombay.
29	Machine à Jambon 6c	traverse frtl / crimps	Bernard Théret
	topo nº29; start at Élongation, low traverse and exit to the left of Les Vacances à Bombay.
30	L'Angle Rotulien 6b+ (6b)	arete	Bernard Théret
	topo nº30; arete between the faces of Les Vacances à Bombay and Le Mur du Son.
31	La Cruxi-Fiction 6c	wall	Bernard Théret
	topo nº31; just left of Le Mur du Son.
31 bis	Le Mur du Son 7c (7b+)	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
	topo nº31bis; to the left of Arc Angel, in a corridor.
32	Angle et Terre 6b+	wall / arete	Bernard Théret
	topo nº33bis; completely right, on the face of Le Mur du Son.
32 bis	Les Beaux Quartiers 6b+	wall / high	Bernard Théret
	topo nº32; just right of Le Mur du Son.
32 ter	Arc Angel 7a	wall	Bernard Théret
	topo nº32bis; ascending traverse to the left of black n°32; same exit as for Le Mur du Son.
33	Vengeance du Triceps 6b+	slightly overhanging / slopers	Bernard Théret
	topo nº33; at the end of the corridor along the face of Le Mur du Son.
34	Des Pieds et des Mains 6a+	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
	topo nº34; on the boulder above Le Mur du Son.
35	Travaux Forcés 7b	traverse fltr / crimps	Bernard Théret
	topo nº35bis; near the top of the hill, on a slowly drying boulder. Start in the left of corridor as for black n°35, low traverse with crimps and exit in red n°49, via the right arete.
36	Le Chat de Gouttière 6b+	slopers / mantle	Bernard Théret
	topo nº36; mantle on a smooth ramp at the top of the sector. See also: Le Chat Noir 6c (7a)