Bleau.info : Petite Reine : Topo

thanks to Thierry Guéguen

For the more direct access, use the parking lot along the D64 (before the bend), follow Le Chemin du Rocher de la Reine for 1500m and turn right at a small path to the opposite of Le Chemin des Enclos (after the "S").
Another access (indicated on the topo) is to park at the auberge du Bois Rond, follow the TMF up to the plateau of Le Rocher de la Reine, continue for 300m to the East and go down in the North side of the ridge at a fork.

1	L152 7a+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart in a slightly overhanging wall as for Séant , traverse to the left via a crack between two boulders and exit on the other side of the second one.
2	Séant 6c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart and direct exit at the beginning of the traverse of L152.
3	Petite Hyène 7c	traverse fltr	Thierry Guéguen
exit completely to the right after an arete in a wall/slab. Update : lichened (May 2006).
4	Pole Position 6c	wall / arete	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder to the right of Petite Hyène.
5	Grosso Mono 7a+	traverse frtl / wall / monos	Thierry Guéguen
30m underneath the two traverses of the upper part of the sector. Start (by convention) at the arete on the right, traverse with monos and bidoigts and exit on the left via slopers. The direct start is 6c.
5	Grosso Mono direct 6c	wall / monos	Thierry Guéguen
direct version (without the traverse) of Grosso Mono.
6	Shooting 6b+	wall	Thierry Guéguen
50m to the South of the boulder of Projection Privée.
7	- 6a+	wall	Thierry Guéguen
on the left face of the boulder of Projection Privée.
8	- 7b+	sitstart / mantle	Thierry Guéguen
already brushed?
9	Projection Privée 7a (7a+)	sitstart / slightly overhanging / dyno	Thierry Guéguen
start with a good hold and dyno to the right.
10	- 6b+	wall / high	Thierry Guéguen
to the right of Projection Privée.
11	La Poulidor 7a	slightly overhanging / crimps	Thierry Guéguen
low start under the roof is also possible (around 7b).
11	La Poulidor du bas 7b	roof / slightly overhanging / crimps	-
low start under the roof and exit in La Poulidor.
12	Haut de Là 7a	wall / high / expo	Thierry Guéguen
start in a pit.
13	Shit 6c	arete	Thierry Guéguen
to the right of Haut de Là.
14	Fortiori 7a	wall / slopers	Thierry Guéguen
start with a good horizontal hold and dyno right hand to a sloper.
15	Exponentiel 7b+ (7c)	prow / sitstart / expo	Thierry Guéguen
prow to the left of Skeleton; sitstart on the stone at the bottom. NB : this problem corresponds to the project n°15 in the topo de la Petite Reine.
16	Le Miroir 7b+	wall	Thierry Guéguen
left problem of the wall in the low part of the sector.
17	- 6b	wall / dyno	Thierry Guéguen
just right of Le Miroir.
18	Suspension de Séance 7a	arete / slopers	Thierry Guéguen
arete to the right of Le Miroir.
19	Le Suspensoir 6c	arete	Thierry Guéguen
just right of Suspension de Séance.
		Outside the topo
Skeleton 7c (7c+)		overhang / sitstart	Stéphane Brette / Julien Nadiras
sitstart to the right of the main arete (numbered 15 in the topo de la Petite Reine), on the boulder above Le Miroir.
Prestissimo 6c		slightly overhanging / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on a big boulder with a bivouac, 150m to the East of the main sector, 15m over the aerial part of the aquaduct.
In Extenso 7a+ (7b)		slightly overhanging / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on a big boulder with a bivouac, 150m to the East of the main sector, 15m over the aerial part of the aquaduct. Start 3m to the right of Prestissimo and exit in that problem.
Papillon 8a		arete / slopers / sitstart	Christophe Laumone
on the slightly overhanging arete to the left of Projection Privée and a nameless 7b+ (see n°8 and n°9 of the topo de la Petite Reine). Sitstart with two crimps in the overhang under the prow and exit in the face on the left using the slopers of the arete.
L'Épée 6a+		arete	J. Arrivepas
arete (of an old quarry) underneath Suspension de Séance and Le Suspensoir (see n°18 and 19 of the topo de la Petite Reine).
L'Arête de la Poulidor 7a (7a+)		arete / expo	-
low start of the arete just left of La Poulie d'Or.
La Poulidor (sortie par l'arête) 7b+ (7c)		roof / arete / crimps	Manuel Marquès
low start in the overhang as for La Poulie d'Or du Bas and exit to the left of the wall, in L'Arête de la Poulie d'Or.
Pépitov 7a		slightly overhanging	Marc Lehner / Louis Dalençon
on a boulder 30m to the North-East of Le Miroir. Standing start with good crimps.
Pépitasky 7a+		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Marc Lehner
on a boulder 30m to the North-East of Le Miroir. Sitstart with a good undercling and exit in Pépitov.
Viracocha 7a		pillar / sitstart / expo	David Evrard
on a boulder underneath and to the left of Fortiori. Sitstart in the overhang and climb the pillar with a sloper left hand.
Pachamama 6b		wall / mantle / expo	David Evrard
on a boulder underneath and to the left of Fortiori. Sitstart in the overhang as for Viracocha, turn to the left and exit by a mantle.
Spa 6b		wall	David Evrard
on the left face of a boulder underneath and to the left of Fortiori. Standing start on a stone with a crack left hand and a sloper right hand, follow the vertical crack and exit at the same point as for Pachamama.
Jacuzzi 6b		slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	David Evrard
on a boulder underneath and to the left of Fortiori. Sitstart in the overhang as for Viracocha,
Le Jardin des Nains 6b		slab / crimps	Christian Merimeche
crimpsy slab to the right of Jacuzzi, on a boulder underneath and to the left of Fortiori. Sitstart in the overhang as for Viracocha.
Tezcalipoca 7b		slightly overhanging / sitstart	David Evrard
on an isolated boulder at the East of the sector. Sitstart with a crimp right hand and a sloper left hand, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle above. Accès : from Le Chemin du Rocher de la Reine, take the last path to the right before La Route du Liteau. The boulder is underneath the aqueduct. (GPS: N48.391500 E2.579500)

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