Bleau.info : Petit Paradis : Topo

thanks to Philippe Le Denmat

1La Spirale 5wall-
ascending wall in a "tube", in the South of the sector.
2Vache de Bouse 7bslabPhilippe Le Denmat
small slab in a pit, to the South of the sector.
3La Craignos 6bwall-
au dessus d'un petit bloc rond.
4Touche-Touche 6bwall-
in a corridor, behind Au Creux de la Vague.
5L'Astuce 6bwall / arete / slopers-
round wall-arete in the South of the sector.
6L'Avant-Goût 4-arete-
arete right hand to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague.
7L'Angle Escalier 5-arete-
arete left hand to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague.
8Pince de Pied 5arete-
right arete to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague.
9Vigilance 5wall-
to the left of Faire et Défaire, to the opposite of Au Creux de la Vague.
10Faire et Défaire 5+arete-
quarry arete near Au Creux de la Vague.
11L'Humiliation 5+slab-
slab in a small corridor.
12Le Cake 6awall-
to the left of Haribo, near Au Creux de la Vague.
13Haribo 5wall / underclings-
wall with an undercling left hand near Au Creux de la Vague.
14Au Creux de la Vague 7a+ (7b)prow / slightly overhangingPascal Etienne
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the West face of a boulder near La Route Guillaume Rondelet.
15La Diagonale 7aslab / crimpsPhilippe Le Denmat
***** on the South face of the boulder of Dalle is not Dead. NB : the slab has been rebrushed (March 2010).
16Dalle is not Dead 7aslabPhilippe Le Denmat
***** right problem on the North face of the boulder of La Diagonale. NB : lichened (March 2010)..
17Zip à toute Heure 6bslab-
to the left of Dalle is not Dead, on the North face of the boulder of La Diagonale. NB : lichened (March 2010).
18Hold-Up 7aroof / areteLoïc Le Denmat
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the South-Ouest face of the boulder of Poison d'Avril, above a small boulder. Start in the pit, dyno to the right arete and exit above.
19Poison d'Avril 6c+arete / slightly overhangingPepito / Philippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 3 photos ] to the right of Hold-Up.
20Collez Serrez (avec la fissure) 6cwall / crimpsPhilippe Le Denmat
 [ 1 photo ] on the East face of the boulder of Poison d'Avril and Hold-Up, with the crack right hand at the top.
20'Collez Serrez 7a (6c)wall / crimpsPhilippe Le Denmat
***** direct problem on the East face of the boulder of Poison d'Avril, without the right crack. NB : this problem is called "Indochine" in some topos.
21La Fissure 5+wall / crack-
evident crack on the boulder of Poison d'Avril.
22Totale Torsion 6bwall / crimps-
to the right of La Fissure, on the boulder of Poison d'Avril.
23La Der de Dalle 6bslab-
on the North face of the boulder of Poison d'Avril.
24- 6c--
to the right of La Route Guillaume Rondelet, on a boulder to the opposite of Poison d'Avril.

 

Outside the topo

Les Thanatonautes 7cwallPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 1 photo ] GPS N48.40409 E2.63882, 6m high wall above a big roof alongside La Route des Gorges du Franchard. Only climbs the wall with a right start. (GPS: N48.402500 E2.647910)
Tube 8aroof / highJulien Nadiras
*****  [ 3 photos ] start in the big roof and exit in Les Thanatonautes. (GPS: N48.402500 E2.647910)
Joli Cœur 7bwallPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 1 photo ] at the right on the boulder of Thanatonautes, with a hart-shaped hole. Might be no longer possible after foothold broke off!
Exile 7bslabPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the right of Thanatonautes. The problem is to the left of the step (starting point of the 6b+ slab Traîtresse).
Vertige Oblique 7a+wall / expoPhilippe Le Denmat
along la route du Mont Aigu on the left side coming from the parking of Croix de Franchard. Start in the center of the wall and finish with the left arete.
P'tit Paradis 7a+wall / expoMarc Montchaussé
near the start of the yellow circuit (GPS: N48.404320 E2.647850)
Traîtresse 6b+slabPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 5 photos ] in between Exile and Joli Cœur. Start on the step, take a vertical crimp and exit with pockets.

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