Bleau.info : La Mare à Piat : Topo

thanks to Philippe Le Denmat & Thibaut le Scour

1	Le Lit Mortuaire 6a	-	-
on the Southern face of the boulder marked "Q".
2	Point de Vue 5+	-	-
left problem on the Eastern face of the boulder marked "Q".
3	Soleilso 6b	-	-
central problem on the Eastern face of the boulder marked "Q".
4	Sous les Pins 5+	-	-
right problem on the Eastern face of the boulder marked "Q".
5	Petite Tension 4+	-	-
left problem on the boulder along the blue path just before the one marked "R".
6	Tequila 6a	-	-
right problem on the boulder along the blue path just before the one marked "R".
7	Petit Malin 7a	wall / slopers	Philippe Le Denmat
on a seperate boulder 100m beyond Ennemi d'État in direction of La Merveille.
8	La Gifle 7a+	wall	Philippe Le Denmat
30m beyond Ennemi d'État, towards la Merveille. Start at the crack with an old yellow arrow and finish on the right by a dynamic move to the top.
9	Le Test 5-	slab	-
to the left of Mine de Rien, on a boulder to the North of Ennemi d'État.
10	Mine de Rien 7b	wall / crimps / slopers	Philippe Le Denmat
on a boulder to the North of Ennemi d'État, in between the 5 grade problems of Le Test and La Plaisante.
11	La Plaisante 5	arete	-
arete to the right of Mine de Rien, on a boulder to the North of Ennemi d'État.
12	Le Strapontin 6a	-	-
on the North face of the boulder with Utopium.
13	El Chaos 6b	wall	-
on the North face of the boulder with Ennemi d'État.
14	Orgasme Cosmique 7b (7a+)	roof	Alexis Allayaud
right problem in the big roof along the blue path.
15	Utopium 7a	roof	Alexis Allayaud
in the big roof along the blue path, in between Orgasme Cosmique and a project.
17	Des P'tits Trous 5+	-	-
on the East face of the boulder with Ennemi d'État.
17b	Slurp 6b	slightly overhanging / wall / sitstart	Loïc de Saint Etienne / Guillaume Joubert
to the right of Des P'tits Trous, on the East face of the boulder with Ennemi d'État. Sitstart in the pit to the left of the tree, climb the overhang and exit slightly to the right in the wall.
18	Le Pénitent du Troisième Œil 7b	wall	Alexis Allayaud
to the right of Ennemi d'État.
19	Ennemi d'État 7a	wall / high	Eric Létot
on a boulder just before the roof alongside the blue path, in between État de Choc and Le Pénitent du Troisième Œil.
20	État de Choc 7b	wall / crack	Philippe Le Denmat
start as for Ennemi d'État but exit to the left in the crack.
21	Pire Ennemi 7b+	wall / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
to the left of the blue path, on the South face of a boulder just after Ennemi d'État.
22	Chauve qui Peut 7b	overhang / expo	-
to the left of Le Ventre de Bouddha.
23	Le Ventre de Bouddha 7a+	overhang / expo	Alexis Allayaud
on the same boulder and to the right of Chauve qui Peut; start to the left of Holly.
24	Le Bonsai par l'Arête 6a	arete	-
right problem on the North face of the boulder of Le Mur à Piat.
25	Le Bonsai par la Fissure 6b	crack	-
left problem on the North face of the boulder of Le Mur à Piat.
26	Le Mur à Piat 7a+	slightly overhanging / crack	Emmanuel Ratouis / Philippe Le Denmat
on the wall facing downwards on the first high boulder 30m above the path.
27	Limbes à Gogo 6b	arete	-
angle to the right of Le Mur à Piat.
28	Six and Sun 6c	wall / expo	-
left problem on the South face of the boulder of Le Mur à Piat.
29	Manque de Pieds 6a	wall / expo	-
right problem on the South face of the boulder of Le Mur à Piat.
30	Pile ou Face 5+	-	-
left problem on the boulder to the right of Le Mur à Piat, at the beginning of the sector.
31	Bain de Bruyère 5	wall	-
right problem on the boulder to the right of Le Mur à Piat, at the beginning of the sector.
32	La Tire au Flanc 5+	-	-
on the South face of a boulder before Le Mur à Piat, at the beginning of the sector.
33	La Délicate 6a	wall / high	-
left problem in the quarry sector, before Rien dans le Ventre.
34	Joli Jumper 6c	wall / high	-
to the left of Rien dans le Ventre, at the beginning of the old quarry.
35	Rien dans le Ventre 7a+	prow	Philippe Le Denmat
in the right part (old quarry in 200m distance from the other boulders).
35b	O Grès des Dunes 7c+	wall / crimps	Thibaut le Scour
to the left of Rien dans le Ventre, at the beginning of the quarry.
36	Plein d'Épis 6c	overhang / expo	-
60m to the East of O Grès des Dunes.
37	L'Oublié des Eaux 7b+	wall / crimps / high	Thibaut le Scour
high crimpsy wall 70m to the right of O Grès des Dunes.
38	Piqué par le Mystique 7a	roof / mantle	Thibaut le Scour
in the quarry sector. Start in a cave and exit with a mantle.
39	Passage Clouté 6c	sitstart / roof	Thibaut le Scour
just right of Piqué par le Mystique; sitstart in the back.
40	Terre à Terre 7b (7b+)	high / expo / crimps	Thibaut le Scour
highball with a big characteristic hole at 2/3, exit with crimps.
41	Archétype 7a+	wall / crack	Thibaut le Scour
wall with a thin crack to the right of Terre à Terre.
42	Où Vous Irez J'Irai 6a	sitstart / overhang / mantle	Thibaut le Scour
small overhang with a big flake, at the end of the quarry sector.
43	Pirouette Cacahuète 7a+	sitstart / wall / crimps	Thibaut le Scour
on a boulder with a big flake, at the end of the quarry sector. Start as for Où Vous Irez J'Irai, but traverse in the left face.
43b	Faux Départ 6c (7a)	-	Thibaut le Scour
to the right of the quarry sector, on the backside of the boulder with Pirouette Cacahuète and Où Vous Irez J'Irai; start with a stone in the ground.
44	Issue de Secours 6b+	overhang / mantle	Thibaut le Scour
high wall (with an old piton) 5m to the left of Au Bord des Lèvres, in a small cave, completely to the right of the quarry sector, past Pirouette Cacahuète.
		Outside the topo
Faites Couiner les Grauches 6b+ (6c)		prow / slightly overhanging / dihedral	Stéphan Denys / Olivier Gargominy
start as for Rien dans le Ventre, catch the dihedral on the left, go up to a big jug and exit by a mantle at the top of the boulder.
Frisson Roche 7a		wall / sitstart	Yano Salaün
between the main sector and the sector of Rien dans le Ventre. Sitstart on a boulder to the South-West of L'Escroc Griffe and Court Métrage. Standing start is 6c+.
L'Escroc Griffe 7a		sitstart / slightly overhanging / traverse fltr	Yano Salaün
on the North-East of Frisson Roche. Same sitstart as for Court Métrage bur with a right exit.
Court Métrage 7a+		slightly overhanging / underclings / mantle	Yano Salaün
on the North-East of Frisson Roche. Same sitstart as L'Escroc Griffe but finish direct.
Finale Nage Libre 6c (6c+)		traverse fltr	Yano Salaün
to the left and above Court Métrage. Start in a corridor and traverse the two faces of the boulder.
Cadeau 6c		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Yano Salaün
on the boulder to the left of Frisson Roche, between the main sector and the sector of Rien dans le Ventre.
Le Nid 5		wall	Yano Salaün
on the West face of the boulder of Frisson Roche, in the corridor.
Et Hop! 6c		underclings	Yano Salaün
to the left of Court Métrage, between the main sector and the sector of Rien dans le Ventre. Start with the two hands on the undercling and exit without the jug.
Palabool 6b		wall	Yano Salaün
left problem on the face of Frisson Roche, between the main sector and the sector of Rien dans le Ventre, without the bowl. Sitstart is 6b+.
Yaka 5		wall	Yano Salaün
central problem on the face of Frisson Roche, between the main sector and the sector of Rien dans le Ventre.
Au Bord des Lèvres 7a+		roof / underclings / dyno	David Evrard / Stéphan Denys
past Pirouette Cacahuète, at the end of the sector. Start in the roof with underclings, make feet hooks, dyno from a sloper and exit in the high wall above.
Du Bord des Lèvres 6c		roof / sitstart	David Evrard
10m to the right of Au Bord des Lèvres, at the end of the sector, past Pirouette Cacahuète. Sitstart completely low in the roof and exit in the high wall above.
Esprit Synchronisé 7a (6c+)		prow / slightly overhanging / expo	Tony Fouchereau / Gérald Coste
on the boulder just left of Le Mur à Piat. Sitstart on a stone and exit directly with the left arete.
Holly 7b		crack / slightly overhanging / mantle	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
sitstart on a stone just left of Le Ventre de Bouddha with underclings, climb the crack, dyno to a sloper on the right and exit directly.
La Force n'est Rien Sans la Maîtrise 7a+		arete / mantle	Frédéric Bouyge / François-Xavier Joubert
arete to the right of Holly. Sitstart on the right with two good holds, climb the right arete and exit to the right above a small boulder (without touching that one).

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