Bleau.info : Rocher des Princes : Topo

thanks to Romain Monnier

1	L'Étrave l'Obèse 5	wall	Romain Monnier
in the sector Drague. Wall exposed to the West at the beginning of the sector.
3	La Proustituée 6b	prow	Romain Monnier
in the sector Drague. Evident prow on the second boulder of the sector.
3'	La Proustituée assis 6c	prow / sitstart	Bart van Raaij
sitstart of La Proustituée, on the evident prow on the second boulder of the sector Drague.
4	Albatros Royal 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / dyno	-
dynamic problem on the left face of La Proustituée, on the second boulder of the sector Drague; morpho.
5	Râle Collage Passif 5 (5+)	slab	Romain Monnier
in the sector Drague. Slab (without the pockets) on a boulder to the South of La Proustituée, at the end of the sector.
6	Les Préliminaires 4	wall	Romain Monnier
in the sector Drague. Three parallel problems on the last boulder of the sector.
9	Râle Bol 3	wall	Romain Monnier
in the sector Le Petit Prince. Small wall on the left of the main boulder.
10	Le Prince Con Sort 5+	wall	Romain Monnier
in the sector Le Petit Prince. Start with the moon-shaped crack and exit to the left. (GPS: N48.371100 E2.755670)
10b	Prince Moi, je Rêve 6b+	wall / crimps	Romain Monnier
in the sector Petit Prince. Start with the moon-shaped crack and exit directly. (GPS: N48.371100 E2.755670)
10c	Le Petit Prince 7a	wall / crimps	Romain Monnier
in the sector of Le Petit Prince. Start with the moon-shaped crack and exit to the right by staying in the wall. (GPS: N48.371100 E2.755670)
12	Arête de Râler 3	arete	Romain Monnier
in the sector of Le Petit Prince, on the small boulder to the right of the main one.
13a	Grenelle de l'Environnement gauche assis 7b+	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau / Christian Roumégoux
on the backside of the boulder of Petit Prince. Sitstart as for Grenelle de l'Environnement assis, follow the crack to the left and exit above the small boulder.
13b	Grenelle de l'Environnement 7b+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / crack / mantle	Tony Fouchereau / Teddy Deschamps
on the backside of the boulder of Petit Prince. Standing start in the pit with a crack, climb the overhang and exit just above by a mantle.
13b'	Grenelle de l'Environnement assis 7c (7b+)	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of the boulder of Petit Prince. Sitstart in the pit with a crack, climb the overhang and exit just above by a mantle.
13c	Grenelle de l'Environnement droite assis 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / crack / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of the boulder of Petit Prince. Sitstart in the pit with a crack and climb the overhang as for Grenelle de l'Environnement assis, but continue with the crack and exit above by a technical mantle. NB : it is also possible to exit to the right with a good pocket (6c+/7a).
14	La Quête du Saint-Râle 4	wall / pockets	Romain Monnier
in the sector of Le Petit Prince. Left problem on the backside of the main boulder.
15	- 4	wall / pockets	Romain Monnier
in the sector of Le Petit Prince. Right problem on the backside of the main boulder.
16	Les Sablons 3	slab	Romain Monnier
four parallel problems on a boulder along La Route du Rocher Besnard, in the sector Prince d'Orange.
20	- 4	traverse fltr / mantle	Sébastien Papillon
on the South face of the boulder to the opposite of Les Sablons. Start to the left, make a short traverse and exit via a mantle.
21	- 2+	mantle	Sébastien Papillon
direct mantle on the South face of the boulder to the opposite of Les Sablons.
22	La Pince 4+	slab / pinches	Frédéric Bodin
short slab with a pinch left hand on a boulder 20m to the West of La Francis.
23	La Pince Plate 4-	arete / slopers	Frédéric Bodin
arete to the left of the slab of La Pince (with the pinch right hand), on a boulder 20m to the West of La Francis.
24	- 3+	slab	Sébastien Papillon
on the east face of the boulder with La Pince Plate.
25	Les Deux Fissures 6a+	traverse fltr / crack	Romain Monnier
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Start at the left crack, traverse to the right and exit via La Fissure Icare (exit on the left is 6b).
25b	La Francis rallongée 6b	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging	Romain Monnier
on the boulder of La Fissure Icare, in the sector Prince d'Orange. Start at the left crack, traverse to the right and exit in La Francis.
26	La Bauge aux Laies 5 (5+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Romain Monnier
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Sitstart to the left of the boulder of La Fissure Icare and exit as for Le Bac des Princes.
27	Le Bac des Princes 6a	overhang / pockets / sitstart	Romain Monnier
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Sitstart in the overhang to the left, on the boulder of La Fissure Icare.
28	La Francis 5+ (6a)	wall / slightly overhanging	Romain Monnier / François Ghigonis
on the boulder of La Fissure Icare, in the sector Prince d'Orange. Start with a pocket right hand in a slightly overhanging wall.
29	Prince de LU 5	wall	Romain Monnier
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Wall just left of La Fissure Icare.
30	La Fissure Icare 5	crack	Romain Monnier / François Ghigonis
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Evident crack in the middle of the boulder (exit on the left without the jug is 5c).
31	Princesse Sarah 5+	slab	Romain Monnier
on the right of La Fissure Icare, in the sector Prince d'Orange.
32	Le Bon Prince 5-	wall	Romain Monnier
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Right problem on the boulder of La Fissure Icare, without the arete.
33	Le Réta Retors 5- (5)	arete / slightly overhanging / mantle	Frédéric Bodin
slightly overhanging arete to the South of Prince d'Orange. Start with a pinch and exit via a antle.
34	Les Cotes à Sion 3	slab	Romain Monnier
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Left problem on the boulder to the right of La Fissure Icare.
35	- 4-	slab	Romain Monnier
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Direct slab on the boulder to the right of La Fissure Icare.
36	- 3+	wall	Sébastien Papillon
on the South face of the boulder of Les Cotes à Sion.
37a	Prince of Persia 6c	slightly overhanging / slopers	Romain Monnier
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Start with the flake, climb the slightly overhanging arete on slopers and exit on the top of the boulder via the slab just before the second flake.
37a'	Prince of Persia assis 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Théotime Pardon
in the sector Prince d'Orange. Sitstart, climb the slightly overhanging arete on slopers, and exit via the slab on the top of the boulder as for Prince of Persia. Direct mantle by Ivan Moreels.
37b	Prince of Persia droite 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers / traverse fltr	Jean-Mickaël Colin
partir avec l'écaille et remonter l'arête déversante sur des plats comme dans Prince of Persia, mais continuer à traverser à droite au lieu de se rétablir dans la dalle, et sortir par l'arête de droite.
37b'	Prince of Persia droite assis 7b	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart in the pit and traverse on slopers as for Prince of Persia assis and exit by the right arete instead of making a mantle at the slab.
39	Prince Far I 7a+	arete / dyno / expo	Théotime Pardon
evident arete on the North face of Prince d'Orange.
40	Prince sans Rire 6b	wall / arete / expo	Romain Monnier
climb the wall-arete on the North-Western face of Prince d'Orange and exit to the right as for Prince Far I.
42	Le Prince d'Orange 7a	arete / slightly overhanging / expo	Romain Monnier / François Ghigonis
evident arete on the Western face of the central boulder of the sector.
42b	Chamonix Orange 6b	traverse fltr / arete	Romain Monnier
start at the arete of Prince d'Orange, traverse to the right and exit in Le Prince Charmant.
43	Le Prince Charmant 5+ (6a)	arete / mantle	Romain Monnier
on the arete to the right of Le Prince d'Orange.
44	Directe de Tool 6a+	wall	Romain Monnier / Loïc Le Denmat
wall between Le Prince Charmant and Prince Moi, without the foot hold on the right.
45	Prince Moi 6a	wall / slab	Romain Monnier
wall-slab by the left on the face to the right of the arete of Le Prince Charmant.
45b	Prince Mi 6a	wall / slab	Romain Monnier
wall-slab by the right on the face to the right of the arete of Le Prince Charmant.
46	C'est Houx qu'on Descend? 4+	crack / slab	Romain Monnier
crack-slab on the face to the right of the arete of Le Prince Charmant.
46b	C'est Houx qu'on Descend assis 5+	crack / slab / sitstart	Romain Monnier
sitstart of the crack-slab of C'est Houx qu'on Descend?, on the face to the right of the arete of Le Prince Charmant.
46c	Le Roc qui Bat le Boa 6a+	crack / traverse frtl / arete	Romain Monnier
sitstart at the crack of C'est Houx qu'on Descend?, traverse to the left and exit via the arete of Le Prince Charmant.
47	L'École des Bleausards 3	slab	Romain Monnier
three easy problems on the boulder to the South-West of Prince d'Orange.
50	C'est Toujours Mieux que Rien 3	wall / slab	Romain Monnier
to the South of Prince d'Orange.
51	L'Arête des Poissons 4-	arete	Romain Monnier
to the South of Prince d'Orange.
52	Les Poissons 4+	wall	Romain Monnier
to the South of Prince d'Orange.
53	Principe Ôté 5+ (6a)	wall / slopers	Romain Monnier
wall to the East of the boulder of Prince d'Orange, without the big holds on the right.
54	Le Coup de Bigo 6a	dyno / mantle	Romain Monnier
to the East of the boulder of Prince d'Orange.
54'	Le Coup de Bigo assis 6c	dyno / mantle / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
sitstart of Le Coup de Bigo, to the East of the boulder of Prince d'Orange.
55	Sarah Longe 6b	traverse fltr	Romain Monnier
in the sector Bel-Air, along the blue path. Start with a jug, traverse to the right and exit without the step.
56	Le Triangle du Tape-Cul 5	wall / slab	Romain Monnier
in the sector Bel-Air, along the blue path. Wall-slab without the holds on the right.
57	Le Prince de Bel-Air 6a+ (6b)	pillar	Romain Monnier
evident prow, on a boulder along the blue path.
58	La Princesse de Clèves 5-	slab	Romain Monnier
along the blue path. Left slab on the face to the right of Le Prince de Bel-Air.
59	- 4-	slab	Romain Monnier
along the blue path. Easiest slab on the face to the right of Le Prince de Bel-Air.
		Outside the topo
Monaco 7b		overhang / pockets	Olivier Lebreton
on an isolated boulder abve the road, before the sector Drague (see the topo du Rocher des Princes). Access : take the path on the left that makes a straight angle with La Route de Montmorin, 100m beyond the parking lot of Carrefour du Rocher des Princes.
Monaco assis 7b+		overhang / pockets / sitstart	Olivier Lebreton
sitstart of Monaco, on an isolated boulder above the road, before the sector Drague (see the topo du Rocher des Princes). Access : take the path on the left that makes a straight angle with La Route de Montmorin, 100m beyond the parking lot of Carrefour du Rocher des Princes.
Peg-Leg 3		wall / sitstart	Piers Cunliffe
on the left of a characteristic corridor. Sitstart and exit directly. Access : from the parking lot, walk along La Route de Montmorin for 50m and turn left on a small path to the opposite of two smooth rocks with a blue paint mark on the first one. The boulder is 50m further.
Peg-Leg Traverse 3		traverse fltr / sitstart	Piers Cunliffe
on the left of a characteristic corridor. Sitstart, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the corridor.Access : from the parking lot, walk along La Route de Montmorin for 50m and turn left on a small path to the opposite of two smooth rocks with a blue paint mark on the first one. The boulder is 50m further.
La Dalle de Peg-Leg 3		slab	Sébastien Papillon
in the middle of Peg-Leg Traverse.
Le Trou d'Obus direct 4+		slab / arete	Sébastien Papillon
right problem on the face with a chaacteristic pocket. Access : from the parking lot, walk along La Route de Montmorin for 50m and turn left on a small path to the opposite of two smooth rocks with a blue paint mark on the first one. The boulder is the first one to the opposite of them.
L'Obusier 4-		slab / mantle	Sébastien Papillon
left problem on the face with a chaacteristic pocket. Access : from the parking lot, walk along La Route de Montmorin for 50m and turn left on a small path to the opposite of two smooth rocks with a blue paint mark on the first one. The boulder is the first one to the opposite of them.
L'Envers du Trou d'Obus 3		slab	Sébastien Papillon
on the backside of the boulder with a characteristic pocket. Access : from the parking lot, walk along La Route de Montmorin for 50m and turn left on a small path to the opposite of two smooth rocks with a blue paint mark on the first one. The boulder is the first one to the opposite of them.
Fluorescent Adolescent 6c+ (7a)		overhang / mantle / sitstart	Jan De Smit / Steven Demets
to the left of Albatros Royal. Sitstart at the angle of the roof and exit by a mantle at the undercling.
Le Râle du Cul 6c (7a)		prow / dyno	Tony Fouchereau
left prow (with a jump start) on the backside of the boulder of Râle Collage Passif, in the sector Drague.
Râle Collage Actif 6c (6c+)		wall / sitstart	Teddy Deschamps
sitstart with the two hands on a moon-shaped hold, just left of Râle Collage Passif.
Meetic 7a+ (7a)		slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau / Jean-Hervé Baudot
2m to the left of Fluorescent Adolescent. Sitstart with a good hold in the corridor and exit by a mantle, using the big crack in the face.
Prince Monseigneur 7a (7a+)		slightly overhanging / dyno / mantle	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of Prince of Persia, in the sector Prince d'Orange. Dyno from the ground to a jug, make a foot hook and exit by the arete above.
Prince Monseigneur gauche 7a+		slightly overhanging / dyno / slab	Tony Fouchereau
on the backside of Prince of Persia, in the sector Prince d'Orange. Dyno from the ground to a jug, traverse to the left for 1m50 over a small boulder and exit by the slab above.
Les Princes de Sang 5-		wall	-
old red arrow on the South-West face of a boulder in the sector Princes de ce Monde. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Les Mains Sales 6c		wall / mantle / sitstart	Mounir Farhat
in the sector Princes de ce Monde, on the North face of a boulder underneath the crest, to the right of the blue path. Sitstart (without crash-pad), climb up the flake and exit by a mantle above. NB : take care of the boulder on the back.
Le Parc des Princes 5-		traverse fltr / sitstart	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
in the sector Princes de ce Monde, on a boulder on the crest with an old red arrow. Sitstart at the angle on a small boulder, traverse on two faces and exit before the second boulder. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Les Jeux du Prince 6a		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Mounir Farhat
in the sector Princes de ce Monde, on the East face of a boulder on the crest. Sitstart (without crash-pad) and exit direct up by a mantle. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Prince des Ténèbres 6c		slightly overhanging / pockets / expo	Mounir Farhat
to the right of Prince de ce Monde. Sitstart in the pit, climb the overhang with pockets and exit at the biggest pocket in the face. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Prince de ce Monde debout 7c+ (8a)		wall / slab / underclings	-
characteristic wall on the West face of a boulder above the blue path. Standing start, dyno to a pinch right hand, climb the wall with an undercling and exit directly in the slab. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Prince de ce Monde 8a		wall / high / sitstart	Mounir Farhat
characteristic wall on the West face of a boulder above the blue path. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with a pocket right hand and a good crimp left hand, climb the wall with an undercling and exit directly in the slab. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Le Fait du Prince debout 6a		dyno	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
central problem on the West face of the boulder of Prince de ce Monde. Standing start with a horizontal crack, dyno and exit above. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Le Fait du Prince 6b		dyno / sitstart	Mounir Farhat
central problem on the West face of the boulder of Prince de ce Monde. Sitstart (without crash-pad), climb the overhang, dyno and exit above. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Machiavel 6c		wall	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
right problem on the West face of the boulder of Prince de ce Monde. Standing start (without crash-pad) at underclings as for Prince Noir but continue in the right face with crimps and exit by a dyno. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Le Prince Noir 6c (6c+)		wall	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
right problem on the West face of the boulder of Prince de ce Monde, with a black, long-drying rock. Standing start in the pit (without crash-pad) with underclings and exit above. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Machiavel assis 6c (6c+)		wall / sitstart	Mounir Farhat
right problem on the West face of the boulder of Prince de ce Monde. Sitstart in the pit (without crash-pad) as for Prince Noir but continue in the right face with crimps and exit by a dyno. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Le Prince Noir assis 6c+ (7a)		wall / sitstart	Mounir Farhat
right problem on the West face of the boulder of Prince de ce Monde, with a black, long-drying rock. Sitstart in the pit (without crash-pad) with pockets and exit in Prince Noir. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Prince Vaillant 5-		wall / expo	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
left problem on the West face of the boulder of Prince de ce Monde. Start to the right of the small boulder, climb the wall and exit on the right, at the highest point. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
La Traversée de Paris 6c		traverse frtl / mantle	Romain Monnier
on the West face of a boulder up the crest, in the sector Princes de ce Monde. Start just left of a tree with the hands on a flake, traverse on slopers and a pocket and exit by a mantle to the right of the second tree. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Port-au-Prince 4+		wall / crack	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
right problem on the South face of the boulder of Parc des Princes, on the crest in the sector Princes de ce Monde. Climb the crack on the right side of that one. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Plat Principal 5- (5)		wall / slopers	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
direct wall, without the pockets nor the crack, in the center of the South face of the boulder of Parc des Princes, on the crest in the sector Princes de ce Monde. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Princesse Leia 5-		wall / mantle	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
on the South face of the boulder of Parc des Princes, on the crest in the sector Princes de ce Monde. Start with slopers and exit directly. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Princesse Leia assis 6b		wall / mantle / sitstart	Mounir Farhat
on the South face of the boulder of Parc des Princes, on the crest in the sector Princes de ce Monde. Sitstart (without crash-pad) and exit directly in Princesse Leia. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Le Bleausard Tisant 3		wall	Mounir Farhat / Romain Monnier
wall with a crack in the sector Princes de ce Monde, on the West face of a boulder with a red arrow, at the middle of the traverse of Parc des Princes. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
La Face Cachée du Prince 6a		slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	Romain Monnier
on the boulder to the South of Prince de ce Monde. Sitstart (without crash-pad), climb the arete and exit by a mantle to the right of that one. Access : from the parking lot of Le Carrefour du Rocher des Princes, follow La Route de Montmorin (blue path) for 100m, take a small path to the right before the bend and follow that one up to the crest.
Rouge-Gorge 5- (5)		mantle	Romain Monnier
in the sector Princes de ce Monde, to the left of the blue path, 100m up the slope from the parking lot of the Carrefour du Rocher des Princes. Jump start, go the right and mantle up the ledge.
Prince en Chocolat 5- (5)		slab / dyno	Romain Monnier
in the sector Princes de ce Monde, to the left of the blue path, 100m up the slope from the parking lot of the Carrefour du Rocher des Princes. Start at the crack, climb the slab and dyno to the top.

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