Bleau.info : Rocher de la Reine : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

From the parking lot along the D64, to the opposite of the road toward La Canche aux Merciers, take a small path for 150m and turn right at Le Chemin du Bois Rond; the starts of the yellow and blue circuits can be found in the slope 100m to 150m after (in front of the start of the red circuit of Le Bois Rond). The problems pricipally opened by Bernard Théret are located along those circuits (see the topo).

A	La Moule Volante 6c	wall / arete	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit. Start with two hands on the low hold to the left.
A1	La Grande Évasion 6b+ (6c)	wall / expo	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit. Start with the big pockets and exit with a crack.
A1	Partie Fine 6c (7a)	traverse frtl / pockets / sitstart	-
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit. Start with the two hands on the jug in the middle of the face above he small boulder on the ground, traverse to the left with three pockets and exit completely left as for La Moule Volante. NB : see the topo of Prisesurprise.
A2	Chaud-Chaud 6c	wall / traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit. Start with the big hole in the middle of the face, traverse to the right and exit after the arete.
A2	D'un Trou à l'Autre 7b	traverse frtl / pockets	Thierry Guéguen
8m traverse to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit. Start with the two hands on the right arete, traverse (morpho) with 6 big jugs and exit completely left as for La Moule Volante. NB : see the topo of Prisesurprise.
A3	La Petite Évasion 6b (6b+)	sitstart	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit. Sitstart under the roof.
A4	Start-Air 5 (5+)	wall	Bernard Théret
near yellow n°2, on the other side of a path. Exit of the traverse of Le Radeau de la Méduse.
A5	Le Radeau de la Méduse 7a	sitstart / traverse frtl / wall	Bernard Théret
near yellow n°2, to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit n°2, on the other side of a path. Sitstart at a crack, pass the round arete and exit at the end of the face in Start-Air.
A5b	Meduseum 6a+ (6b)	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
near yellow n°2, to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit. Sitstart at a crack and pass the round arete as for Le Radeau de la Méduse, but exit diagonally to the right.
A6	OW 31 7a+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit. Sitstart with the two hand on an undercling and traverse to the right.
A7	Le Caviste 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit.
A8	Vers la Lumière 5+ (6a)	wall	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit, along a path. Left problem in the wall.
A8b	Le Premier Pas 6b	wall / slab / slopers	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit, along a path. Right problem in the wall : start on the step and exit via slopers.
A9	Bouddha 1 6c+	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit, near yellow n°3 and yellow n°4. Sitstart with left hand on an undercling, right hand on a pinch; exit direct.
A9b	Bouddha 2 6b	sitstart / crimps	Bernard Théret
to the left of the beginning of the yellow circuit, near yellow n°3 and 4. Sitstart with left hand on an undercling, right hand on a pinch as for Bouddha 1, traverse to the right on crimps and exit at the top of the boulder.
A10	Le Patatoïde 6c (7a)	sitstart / traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
in front of yellow n°2. Sitstart to the right with left hand on a bidoigt (without using the pedestal) and traverse completely to the left.
A11	Arcodrome 6b+ (6c)	sitstart / slightly overhanging / slab	Bernard Théret
on the overhanging face to the left on the boulder of yellow n°2. Sitstart to the right in the slightly overhanging face, take the ledge left hand and exit in the slab.
B	Baby Boum 6c (6b+)	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
on the left of the sector, near blue n°18. Sitstart at the arete, and exit on the right face.
B1	SR 71 6c+ (6c)	sitstart / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the left of the sector, near blue n°18. Sitstart under the small roof on the right, go to the left on slopers and exit in a belly, to the right of Baby Boum (6b+/6c).
B2	Presque Bleu 6c (6b+)	traverse fltr / crimps / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°18, to the opposite of Baby Boum. Sitstart at the left, traverse to the right and exit after the arete.
B3	Le Vol du Bourdon 6a+	sitstart / wall / crack	Bernard Théret
sitstart under blue n°18 and exit in that one.
B4	Contraction 6a	wall	Bernard Théret
3m to the right of blue n°18, on the crest.
B4	Misère Noire 7b+ (7c)	wall / crimps / sitstart	Bernard Théret
3m to the right of blue n°18, on the top of the hill. Sitstart in the small overhang with the two hands on the "roll" and exit via the crimps of Contraction (6a+),
B5	M. Pointu 6a (6a+)	wall / expo	Bernard Théret
in the middle of the face to the right of blue n°19.
B5b	Attention à la Marche 6a+ (6b)	wall / mantle	Bernard Théret
on the face to the left of blue n°20.
B6	Rouleau Californien 6a (6a+)	wall	Bernard Théret
to the left of blue n°17.
B7	L'Isoloir 7a	sitstart / slightly overhanging / expo	Bernard Théret
on a boulder 40m behind blue n°17 (on the other side of the hill). Sitstart to the right and exit slightly to the left. Only the wall is 6b+.
B7b	Les Sargasses 4	slab	Bernard Théret
behind the crest. Start with a small crack right hand.
B7c	Le Triangle des Bermudes 6a+ (6b)	sitstart / traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the other side of the hill). Sitstart to the right of the small roof, traverse to the left and exit in the slab after the arete.
B8	Toutankhamon 6c+	sitstart / overhang / underclings	Bernard Théret
behind blue n°15, on the top of the hill. Sitstart with two hands on the little undercling, and exit slightly to the left on slopers.
B9	Tumulus 6b (6b+)	crack	Bernard Théret
to the right of yellow n°47. Start low in the corridor, climb the crack between the wall and the roof and exit.
B10	Marche à l'Ombre 6b+	traverse frtl / wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°15. Low start to the right and exit in the middle of the wall.
B10b	Coup de Soleil 6c (6c+)	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°15. Low start to the right as for Marche à l'Ombre, but go on traversing to the left, and exit in blue n°23.
B10c	Peau d'Âne 6a+	traverse frtl / overhang	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°15. Low start to the right as for Marche à l'Ombre and Coup de Soleil, but exit direct in the roof.
B11	Bleu de Prusse 7a	traverse frtl / slopers	Bernard Théret
sitstart to the right of blue n°11, traverse to the left to the crack, climb in the blue problem, go on traversing on two faces with slopers and exit after the arete next to the tree.
B11	Bleu de Prusse en aller-retour 7c (7c+)	traverse	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°22. Bleu de Prusse and back, with exit in blue n°11.
B12	Mer Caspienne 6c	traverse fltr / crimps	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°22. Standing start to the left, traverse to the right and exit before blue n°22 after the big hole.
B12	Mer Morte 7a	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
back traverse of Mer Caspienne, on the boulder of blue n°22. Start in blue n°22, downclimb at the slopers, continue to traverse to the left after the big jug and exit by a mantle at the left angle.
B12b	Mer Noire 6b+ (6c)	wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°22. Vertical wall to the right of the big hole.
B12c	Mer Rouge 6b+	wall	Bernard Théret
shortened version of Mer Caspienne, on the boulder of blue n°22. Start at the jug, traverse to the right and exit in blue n°22.
C	G-2 6b+ (6c)	wall / mantle	Bernard Théret
to the right of blue n°21 bis (triangle). Start with left hand on a crimp, and exit with a mantle.
C1	Plumes au Vent 6b	arete / mantle	Bernard Théret
start with the arete of blue n°12 right hand and exit via a mantle.
C1	Plumes au Vent assis 7a (7a+)	sitstart / arete / mantle	Bernard Théret
sitstart with the arete of blue n°12right hand and exit via a mantle (standing start is 6b).
C2	Napoléon 6a+	slightly overhanging	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of yellow n°57, to the opposite of Plumes au Vent.
C2	Napoléon assis 7a	sitstart / slightly overhanging	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of yellow n°57, to the opposite of Plumes au Vent. Sitstart to the right, take vertical holds, then a hole with right hand and exit in Napoléon (6a+).
C3	Pol Pot 1 6c	sitstart / traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
in front of yellow n°10. Sitstart to the left, traverse to the right and exit next to the tree.
C3b	Pol Pot 2 6a+	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
in front of yellow n°10. Sitstart in the middle of the boulder and exit direct.
C3c	Pol Pot 3 6c	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
in front of yellow n°10
C4	Bec dans l'Eau 6a+ (6b)	wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°10. Vertical wall in the little overhang to the left of the arete, near the exit of blue n°10.
C5	Blanc Bec 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°10. Vertical wall to the right of the arete of Bec dans l'Eau.
C6	Serpent à Plumes 3+ (4-)	wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°10. Vertical wall 1.50m to the right of Blanc Bec.
D	Néron 6a+ (6a)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°14. Start to the left, traverse and exit in yellow n°14.
D1	Christophe Colomb 6c+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°16. Start to the right (from the other boulder), go down and traverse to the left, and exit in yellow n°16.
D1	Christophe Colomb en aller-retour 7a+	traverse	Bernard Théret
there and back of Christophe Colomb, on the boulder of yellow n°16. Start to the right (from the other boulder), go down and traverse to the left, and do the back traverse at the exit of yellow n°16.
D2	Lumière Noire 7b (7a+)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°26. Start on the stone at the exit of Crazy Horse, downclimb to the right to the bottom of the crack and go up in blue n°26.
D2	Newton 6c+	sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart of blue n°26.
D2b	Crazy Horse 6c+	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°26. Sitstart under blue n°26, as in Newton, traverse in the wall and exit in the belly to the left (variants are possible).
D3	Rejet Possible 6b+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°13. Start at a blue arrow, traverse to the left and exit in a slab after the arete.
D3b	Tour de Farce 7a	traverse frtl / slopers / crimps	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°12. Start to the right of a vague crack, near the boulder of yellow n°13, traverse to the left on slopers and exit in the slab of blue n°9.
D4	Cambronne 6a+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°11 and yellow 11 bis. Low start, traverse and exit in yellow n°11 bis.
D5	Le Placard 6b+	wall / expo	Bernard Théret
to the left of blue n°7.
D6	Le Dormeur 6a (6a+)	wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder underneath and to the left of blue n°7, in the face to the left of Petite Souris. Start right hand with a good hold and left hand with a vertical.
D7	Petite Souris 6a+ (6b)	sitstart / traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the boulder underneath and to the left of blue n°7. Sitsart at the arete, traverse to the right and exit at the end of the face, next to Le Placard.
D8	Mouchoir de Poche 7a	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
between blue n°6 and blue n°7, on the boulder above Jules Verne. Start completely to the left of the ledge and exit on the rounded arete as for Pic et Poche.
D8b	Pic et Poche 6c (7a)	slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	Bernard Théret
between blue n°6 and blue n°7, on the boulder above Jules Verne. Sitstart on the right (without crash-pad), climb the arete and exit as for Mouchoir de Poche.
E	Gengis Khan 7c (7b+)	wall / arete	Bernard Théret
between blue n°24 and blue n°24 bis (grade to be confirmed).
E1	L'Autruche Verte 6b+ (6c)	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
on a boulder between blue n°6 and 24 bis. Vertical wall and exit with crimps.
E1b	L'Écureuil 6a	wall	Bernard Théret
on a boulder between blue n°6 and blu en°24 bis. Vertical wall to the right of the tree and to the left of L'Autruche Verte.
E2	Crotale 6b+ (6c)	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
on a boulder to the right and underneath blue n°6. Sitstart and exit to the right of the overhang, in a little wall.
E3	Effet de Fronde 6c	wall / expo	Bernard Théret
to the right of blue n°6. Start underneath the arete and exit in the face.
E3b	Effet Prolongé 7a+	traverse fltr / wall / expo	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the right of blue n°6. Start in the corridor with two hands in a little vertical flake, traverse to the right and exit in Effet de Fronde.
E4	Parallélépipède 6b	wall / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart just left of Ramapithèque.
E4	Ramapithèque 6c	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
sitstart 2m to the left of the arete of blue n°6 and exit as for the end of the traverse of Jules Verne.
E40	L'Ile Mystérieuse 6c	slightly overhanging	Pepito
to the right of Ramapithèque.
E5	En Magellanie par Jules Verne 7c	traverse fltr	Max
start in Jules Verne and exit in En Magellanie. There and back is 8a (Jean-Pierre Bouvier).
E5	En Magellanie par Jules Verne en aller-retour 8a	traverse	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
there and back of En Magellanie par Jules Verne.
E5	Jules Verne 7b (7b+)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
30m above Le Chemin du Bois Rond. Start at blue n°5, traverse all the face (big holds at the top of the round arete are not allowed) and exit in Ramapithèque (6c). Exit by blue n°6 is 7a+/7b.
E5	Le Tour du Monde 7c (7c+)	traverse	Bernard Théret
there and back of Jules Verne, with exit in blue n°5. The reverse (with exit in Ramapithèque) is 7c+. In each case, the big holds to the top of the round arete to the right of blue n°5 are not allowed.
E6	En Magellanie 7b	traverse fltr / crimps	Max
in the corridor to the right of Jules Verne (6m; 18 moves). Start in blue n°6, traverse to the right and exit by a mantle.
E6	Kaw-Djer 6c	sitstart / wall	Max
sitstart of the exit of En Magellanie.
E6	Les Pieds Nickelés 7c	traverse	Bernard Théret
start completely to the right, low traverse under blue n°6, do the back traverse of Jules Verne and exit in blue n°5.
F	Le Coin Perdu 6a (6a+)	wall / crack	Bernard Théret
under the top of the hill, to the left of yellow n°44. Vertical wall with a little crack; direct exit.
F1	Plein Sud 6a (5+)	wall	Bernard Théret
vertical wall 3m to the left of blue n°41, under the top of the hill.
F2	Raideur Digeste 6c	wall / crimps / expo	Bernard Théret
on the boulder between blue n°41 and yellow n°40, under the top of the hill. Vertical wall just to the right of the tree with a rounded exit.
F3	Boby 6b (6a+)	wall / bidoigt	Bernard Théret
on the boulder between blue n°41 and yellow n°40, under the top of the hill. Start with a bidoigt right hand and a crimp left hand. Sitstart is 7a+.
F3	Boby assis 7a+	sitstart / wall / bidoigt	Bernard Théret
on the boulder between blue n°41 and yellow n°40, under the top of the hill. Sitstart, take the bidoigt right hand and a crimp left hand and exit in the wall.
F4	Le Dragon du Komodo 7a+	sitstart / mantle	Bernard Théret
on the boulder between blue n°41 and yellow n°40. Sitstart under the roof, traverse to the left and exit with a mantle. NB : it is also possible to exit on slopers on the right side of the prow (morpho).
F5	Compression Zap du fond 7b+ (7c)	roof / crack / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of yellow n°43, on the crest. Sitstart completely at the bottom of the roof and climb the crack as for Compression Zip du fond, take the ledge on the left from the jug, continue to the right and exit by the prow of Compression Zip.
F5	Compression Zip 7a (7a+)	prow / slopers / sitstart	Max
on the boulder of yellow n°43, on the crest. Sitstart under the prow and exit on slopers.
F5	Compression Zip du fond 7c+	crack / prow / slopers	Francis Hélias
on the boulder of yellow n°43, on the crest. Sitstart completely at the bottom of the roof, climb the crack and exit in Compression Zip.
F5	Compression Zip du fond (sans l'arête G) 8a+	roof / crack / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
eliminate on the boulder of yellow n°43, on the crest. Sitstart completely at the bottom of the roof, climb the crack up to the middle of the roof, traverse directly to the right and exit by the prow of Compression Zip without using the left arete, i.e., above the corridor. NB : see the topo of Prisesurprise.
F5	Les Comparses 6c	roof / crack / sitstart	Benoît Juncker
sitstart in the roof of Compression Zip, climb the crack exposed to the South and exit at a yellow arrow. NB : see the topo of Prisesurprise.
F5	Les Compères Zappent du Fond 7a+	roof / crack / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of yellow n°43, on the crest. Sitstart completely at the bottom of the roof and climb the crack as for Compression Zip du fond, but take the ledge on the left from the jug and exit either in the slab of yellow n°43 or in the one of blue n°43.
F6	La Porte du Temps 7a	crack / slopers / mantle	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°40, under the top of the hill. Dülfer-style crack and round exit. A sitstart is possible (same grade).
F7	La Fissure du Soleil 6c+	crack / slopers	Bernard Théret
right crack in the face to the right of yellow n°40. Start left hand in the crack and exit on slopers.
F8	L'Obliquant 6b	wall / mantle	-
to the right of La Fissure du Soleil, in the face to the right of yellow n°40.
F9	Le Couguar 7a+ (7b)	sitstart / traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the boulder just to the left of yellow n°41 (blue directional arrow) under the top of the hill. Sitstart at the right as for Le Couguar Blanc, traverse and exit completely left (exit with the pocket is 7a).
F9	Le Couguar Blanc 7a	wall / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the boulder just to the left of yellow n°41 (blue directional arrow), under the top of the hill. Shortened version of Le Couguar : sitstart at the right, traverse to the left and exit at the pocket.
F10	Le Toit de l'Ombre 6a (6a+)	crack / overhang	Bernard Théret
on the top of the hill. "Dülfer"-style start in the crack under yellow n°42 bis, and exit in that one.
F11	Vipère au Poing 6a+ (6b)	slightly overhanging	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the left of yellow n°39.
F12	Les Étoiles Filantes 8a	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
sitstart to the right of blue n°34 with a vertical hold left hand and an undercling right hand and dyno to slopers.
G	Craie Pie Dense 6b+ (6c)	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
to the left of No Mohair Roc, on the boulder of blue n°48 and blue n°49 (directional arrow).
G1	No Mohair Roc 6a	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
to the right of Craie Pie Dense, 1m50 to the left of blue n°48.
G2	Ramping Grat Flash 6b (6b+)	wall / crimps / expo	Bernard Théret
at the left of the corridor.
G2b	Diaclaseum 6a+ (6b)	wall	Bernard Théret
1m50 to the right of Ramping Grat Flash.
G3	Toujours Vert 6a (6a+)	wall	Bernard Théret
to the left of the crack/flake of the blue number. Right problem.
G3b	Encore Gris 6b	wall	Bernard Théret
to the left of the crack/flake of the blue number. Left problem.
G4	Makhnovtchina 7c	traverse fltr / roof	Max
to the right of Voyage au Centre de la Terre, on the boulder of yellow n°28.
G4	Voyage au Centre de la Terre 7a+ (7a)	sitstart / roof	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of yellow n°28. Sitstart low, and exit the wall to the left, using the left boulder (but not the top of that one), or without (7b).
Gb	Crépi Danse 7a	traverse frtl / wall / crimps	-
traverse exposed to the South, on the right of the sector, on the crest. Start from the step to the right of blue n°48, traverse for 5m in the crimpsy wall and exit in Craie Pie Dense.
H	Le Chou-Fleur 6b	high / expo	Bernard Théret
to the right of yellow n°27. Start from the bouquet of trees (sitstart right is also possible).
H1	Le Hublot 6a	sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart of blue n°53.
H2	Prisme à Tics 6a+	slab / crimps	Bernard Théret
on the same boulder and to the left of blue n°53.
H3	Nid d'A 6a (6a+)	sitstart / traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°52 and blue n°52 bis. Sitstart to the right, traverse to the left to the big hole and exit in blue n°52 bis.
H4	Le Yucca 6a	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
marbled wall underneath blue n°52, to the right of the crack and to the left of the first angle of the traverse of Le Grand Solitaire.
H4b	La Plante Verte 4-	slab	Bernard Théret
underneath blue n°52, to the right of the first angle of the traverse of Le Grand Solitaire.
H5	- 6a+ (6b)	sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart and direct exit (exit to the left is 6a+/6b).
H5	- 6b (6b+)	sitstart / slopers	Bernard Théret
underneath blue n°52. Start with right hand on a round hold and left hand on a sloper and exit direct.
H5	Le Grand Solitaire 7a (7a+)	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the boulder underneath blue n°52. Start on the right face, passa first angle, traverse at the crack and the wall of YuccaPlante Verte, pass the second round arete and exit by a mantle completely to the left of the great face.
H5	Le Grand Solitaire en retour-aller 7b+	traverse	Bernard Théret
back and there of Le Grand Solitaire. Sitstart with an oblique hold 1m50 before the exit of Le Grand Solitaire, traverse to the right as for Le Grand Solitaire GD up to the slab after the second angle, come back to the left and exit at the end of the boulder as for Grand Solitaire.
H5b	Le Grand Solitaire GD 7a+	traverse fltr / sitstart	Bernard Théret
underneath blue n°52. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with an oblique hold 1m50 before the exit of Le Grand Solitaire, traverse to the right, pass a first angle and then the crack and the wall of Yucca, and exit in the slab after the second angle.
H5c	Le Grand Solitaire raccourci 6c (7a)	traverse frtl / sitstart	Bernard Théret
underneath blue n°52. Sitstart in the middle of the left face, take a pocket, traverse to the left and exit at the end of the face as for Le Grand Solitaire.
H5c	Le Petit Solitaire 6b (6b+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of Le Grand Solitaire, underneath blue n°52. Sitstart at the middle of the last face, take a pocket and exit above.
H6	Le Grand Maître 6b+ (6c)	slightly overhanging / high / expo	Bernard Théret
to the right of blue n°57.
H7	Mer d'Huile 6b (6b+)	wall / crimps	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the right of blue n°57.
H8	Le Bord Dur 6a (6a+)	wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the right of blue n°57. Wall to the right of Mer d'Huile.
H9	Haut les Bras 5+ (6a)	wall / mantle	Bernard Théret
behind yellow n°25.
H10	L'Écarteur 6c	sitstart / wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the same boulder and to the opposite of blue n°57. Sitstart with a pinch left hand and exit on slopers.
H11	Mise en Charge 6b	sitstart / underclings	Bernard Théret
between yellow n°24 and yellow n°25. Sitstart under the undercling.
H12	Point de Vue 6a	wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the right of blue n°39. Vertical wall to the right of the slightly overhanging arete.
H12	Point de Vue assis 6c (7a)	sitstart / underclings	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the right of blue n°39. Sitstart of the vertical wall to the right of the slightly overhanging arete.
I	Feuilles d'Automne 7c (7c+)	traverse	Bernard Théret
there and back of Victor Hugo, with exit in yellow n°23.
I	Les Chants du Crépuscule 7b+ (7c)	traverse	Bernard Théret
there and back of Victor Hugo, with exit in the bis blue.
I	Les Rayons et les Ombres 6c+ (7a)	traverse frtl / wall	Bernard Théret
start in yellow n°23 as for Victor Hugo and exit in blue n°38 bis.
I	Victor Hugo 7b	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
start in yellow n°23, traverse to the left and exit in blue n°38. NB : the small boulder under the blue number can be used.
Ib	Cœur de Pierre 4+ (5-)	sitstart	Bernard Théret
on a boulder between blue n°37 and blue n°38.
I1	Pied au Plancher 6a	sitstart / crack	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°37. Sitstart and direct exit.
I2	Coin Sauvage 6a+ (6b)	sitstart / arete	Bernard Théret
underneath yellow n°22 (boulder with two yellow triangles). Sitstart at the angle to the left of the small face.
I3	Demi-Lune 6b (6b+)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
between yellow n°21 and blue n°31.
I4	Plan de Carrière droite 3+ (4-)	wall / arete	Bernard Théret
right version.
I4	Plan de Carrière gauche 6a (6a+)	wall / arete / dyno	Bernard Théret
left version.
I5	Les Dentelles 6a+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°31. Traverse to the left from blue n°31 and exit after the round arete.
I6	La Boule 6a+	wall	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of blue n°26, to the right of Château St Grès.
I6b	Cave Digitalus 7a+	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of blue n°26. Start in La Boule, traverse to the right and exit in the slab after the small crack.
I7	Château St Grès 6b (6b+)	sitstart / wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of blue n°26, to the left of La Boule. Sitstart and exit to the left.

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