Bleau.info : Cuvier Rempart : Topo

thanks to Philippe Le Denmat

1	Gabonis 7b	wall / bidoigt	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
on the boulder with black n°47, to the right of yellow n°10, over the blue path when coming from Duroxmanie. Sitstart is 7b+.
1b	Gabonis assis 7b+	wall / bidoigt / sitstart	-
sitstart of Gabonis, on the boulder with black n°47.
2	L'Aérotilt 5+	wall / arete	-
on the boulder of black n°47, between Tico Tico (7a) and yellow n°10.
3	Coticoton 6b+	wall / underclings / slopers	Pepito
between Tico Tico and L'Aérotilt, on the boulder of black n°47.
4	Tico Tico 6c+ (7a)	wall / crack	-
on the boulder with black n°47, over the blue path when coming from Duroxmanie. Left face of Gabonis. Update : recently rebrushed (spring 2007).
5	Babouchka 6b	wall / crack / expo	-
on the boulder of black n°47, to the left of Tico Tico (7a). NB : the top of the boulder needs to be brushed (april 2005).
6	La Philippine 6b	wall / crack	-
on the boulder of black n°47. Second problem from the left, in the corridor.
7	El Zopilote 6c	wall	-
on the boulder of black n°47. Left problem in the corridor.
8	Massacre au Supermarché 7c	traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
to the right of black n°47, on the boulder of Gabonis (first boulder in the heart of Le Rempart, coming from Duroxmanie). There and back is 8a.
9	La Grande Dalle 5	slab	Pepito
to the right of Le S (face Nord) (black n°47).
10	Deguello 6b	wall / crimps	-
2m to the left of black n°47.
11	Dalle Douce 6b (6a+)	slab / slopers	-
to the left of black n°46; round exit.
12	L'Histoire sans Fin 6c	wall / slab	-
to the left of La Gaby (yellow n°11), along the blue path.
13	Voie Étroite 5	slab	Pepito
eliminating slab underneath black n°1.
14	Sale Môme 6a	slab	-
to the left of black n°3.
15	La Pile pleine Face 6b	wall	Pepito
direct version of La Pile (black n°4), without the good hold on the left.
16	Retrouvailles 6b	pillar	-
round pillar to the opposite and slightly left of black n°4.
17	L'Angle au Saxo 5	wall	-
to the opposite of black n°4, on the right of the pillar of Retrouvailles.
18	En Marge 5+	slab	-
just left of yellow n°8.
19	Chicanes 6b	wall	Pepito
small wall to the opposite of Beauté Cachée and black n°5.
20	Les Griffes du Seigneur 6c	wall	-
to the left of La Sans les Mains (black n°5).
21	Beauté Cachée 5	pillar	Pepito
pillar to the right of La Sans les Mains (black n°5).
22	Menu Frottin 6b	wall	Philippe Le Denmat
on the boulder to the opposite of the one with black n°5, 3m on the right towards the blue path. Start with the left arete and exit in the wall.
23	Jacaranda 6b+ (6c)	sitstart / slightly overhanging / mantle	Gabor Barcza / Robert Varga
along the blue path n°5, on the left face of black n°8, before Big Boss.
24	Classe Prépa 5+ (6a)	wall	-
wall above a small flat boulder 10m to the North-West of black n°6 and Nouvelles Écritures. Two versions are possible.
25	Casse-Pattes 6a	wall / mantle	Philippe Le Denmat
near the bottom of the slope, to the left of Nouvelles Écritures , between yellow n°6 and yellow n°8.
26	Le Kick 6b	wall	-
on the boulder of black n°6, to the left of Nouvelles Écritures.
27	Nouvelles Écritures 7a (7a+)	wall / crimps / expo	Yves Payrau
direct to the left of yellow n°5, over a small boulder, underneath the blue path, before T-Rex. Probably opened by Yves Payrau.
28	T-Rex 7c+ (8a)	pillar / slightly overhanging	Olivier Carrière
30m underneath C'Était Demain, over blue path n°5. Morpho.
28b	T-Rex assis 8a (8a+)	pillar / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart of T-Rex.
29	La Prouesse 6a	wall	-
on the boulder to the right of T-Rex, underneath the blue path, to the North-East of Toboggan (black n°6).
30	Raid Aérien 7b (7a)	prow / overhang / expo	Loïc Le Denmat / Philippe Le Denmat
underneath the blue path n°5, in between T-Rex and C'Était Demain. Start on the arete, take the big undercling left hand and exit on the left face. NB : opened by Loïc Le Denmat with a hold on the left that broke off, but done again by Philippe Le Denmat with the method described above. Other versions are also possible but morpho
31	Aviator 7b	arete / expo	Philippe Le Denmat
climb the arete just right of Raid Aérien and exit in the right face, above the corridor.
32	El Loco 5	wall / expo	-
on the boulder of Raid Aérien, to the opposite of n°4 jaune in a corridor underneath the blue path.
33	- 5- (5)	arete	-
crouching start of the arete along the blue path, underneath the boulder of C'Était Demain.
34	Joli Jumper 5 (5+)	arete / slopers	-
characteristic round arete along the blue path, underneath yellow n°3, just after C'Était Demain.
35	Vieux Machin 7c	overhang / high	Christian Roumégoux
on the East face of the boulder of Joli Jumper, just under the blue path, underneath yellow n°3, after C'Était Demain. Sitstart under the overhang with horizontal holds and exit in the belly on slopers.
36	Cosy Rock 6c (6c+)	slopers / mantle / sitstart	-
right problem of the small boulder along the blue path, next to the stairs leading to Big Boss. Sitstart to the right of Marche à Suivre with a crimp left hand, dyno to a pinch/sloper and exit on the right.
37	Marche à Suivre 6b	underclings / arete / sitstart	-
left problem of the small boulder along the blue path, next to the stairs leading to Big Boss. Sitstart with undercling, take a crimp right hand and exit by a mantle on the round arete.
38	Des Pieds et des Mains 7a (7a+)	wall	Philippe Le Denmat
right problem on the boulder of Septième Ciel and C'Était Demain. Start slightly right of C'est tes Deux Pieds and exit diagonally to the right in the slab, using a sloper and then a small crimp right hand.
39	C'est tes Deux Pieds 7a	wall	Philippe Le Denmat
on the boulder of C'Était Demain. Start as for Septième Ciel, but take an undercling right hand and exit directly.
40	Septième Ciel 6c+	wall	-
to the right of C'Était Demain.
41	C'Était Demain 8a	wall	Jacky Godoffe
to the right of black n°9, without the angle, otherwise 7c.
41b	C'Était Demain assis 8a+	overhang / underclings	Sébastien Frigault
sitstart of C'Était Demain.
42	Grand Merci 5	arete / pillar	Philippe Le Denmat
climb the arete to the left of C'Était Demain and exit by the pillar (6b with the exit by C'Était Demain).
43	Jeu de Nous 7a (6c+)	sitstart / crack / high	-
above C'Était Demain. Sitstart, take the round crack on the left and exit in a lichenous wall, as for Boogle-Chaise on its right.
44	Boogle-Chaise 6c+	sitstart / wall / high	-
above C'Était Demain. Sitstart with a big jug, go direct via slopers and exit and exit in a lichenous wall as in Jeu de Nous on its left.
45	Le Réta Tranquille 5	mantle	Pepito
to the right of black n°10.
46	Controverse 7a	wall / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart with the big hold of Les Médisances, dyno to the left and exit on slopers.
47	Les Médisances debout 6c	slightly overhanging	Pepito
3m to the right of black n°10.
47b	Les Médisances 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pepito / Sébastien Frigault
3m to the right of black n°10.
48	The Watchtower 7b+ (7b)	prow / high / expo	Jos Leenen / Jacky Godoffe
light overhanging prow to the right of black n°12 on a high boulder just underneath and right of Big Boss. (GPS: N48.445360 E2.646420)
49	L'Amicale 7a	wall / underclings / expo	Benoît Debeugny
direct wall just right of black n°12. Start to the right of the step with an undercling as for La Cour des Grands but exit to the right near the top of the prow of Watchtower.
50	La Cour des Grands 6b	wall / underclings / expo	-
wall marked with a white circle just right of black n°12. Start at the step, take an undercling right hand and then a horizontal hold left hand and exit directly.
51	French Cancan 7a	traverse frtl	-
on the boulder to the left of Big Boss. Traverse to the left in the tunnel and exit in the wall.
52	U et Approuvé 5+	wall	-
on the South face of the boulder of Big Boss, on the other side of the tunnel.
53	Big Boss 7c	overhang / high	Jacky Godoffe
facing black n°16.
54	Fourmis Rouges 7c	slopers / high	Jacky Godoffe
to the right of Big Boss.
55	Tristesse 7c	pillar	Jacky Godoffe
right of boulder with Fourmis Rouges.
55b	Tristounette 6c+	wall / slab / expo	Guillaume Joubert
start 2m to the left of Tristesse, climb the wall for 4m and traverse to the right to exit in Tristesse.
56	Anglissimo 6a	arete	-
just left of yellow n°1, on the boulder behind Big Boss.
57	Humilité 5+ (6a)	wall / arete	Philippe Le Denmat
1m to the left of Les Bretelles du Pascal (black n°45).
58	- 5 (5+)	wall	-
on the boulder to the left of Les Bretelles du Pascal (black n°45).
59	La Farfouille 6c	slightly overhanging	-
right problem, in a narrow corridor, on the boulder just left of black n°45.
60	La Renfougne 6c	slightly overhanging	-
left problem, in a narrow corridor, on the boulder just left of black n°45.
61	Lucie 7a	slab / crimps / expo	Didier Gérardin
on the boulder to the left of black n°45, above C'Était Demain. Start to the left in a corridor.
62	Blitzkrieg 8a+	traverse fltr / overhang	Manuel Marquès / Olivier Lebreton
onn the boulder of sur le bloc de Big Golden. Start in the corridor as for Super Tanker, traverse all the face and exit in Blitz.
62b	Super Tanker 8b+	traverse fltr / overhang / slopers	Antoine Vandeputte
start in the small corridor to the left of Big Golden, traverse underneath this one and exit in Atrésie. NB : grade to be confirmed.
63	Big Golden 7c+	slightly overhanging	Olivier Carrière
on the boulder to the right of Tristesse.
63b	Big Golden assis 8a	sitstart / slightly overhanging	-
sitstart of Big Golden, on the boulder to the right of Tristesse.
63c	Supra Golden 7a+	overhang / underclings	Antoine Vandeputte
start with two underclings to the left of Big Golden and exit directly.
64	Atrésie 8a	overhang	Pierre Gonzales
start in Big Golden and exit to the right.
64b	Atrésie assis 8a+	sitstart / overhang	Julien Nadiras
on the boulder of Big Golden. Sitstart of Atrésie.
64c	Le Bâtard 7c (7c+)	overhang	Sébastien Frigault
in between Big Golden and Atrésie.
65	Blitz 7a+	arete	Stéphane Brette
to the right of Atrésie, with heelhook.
65b	Blitz assis 7b+ (7c)	arete / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Big Golden. Sitstart as for Atrésie assis and exit in Blitz.
66	Dessous Chics 8a+	traverse / roof	Jacky Godoffe
traverse to the right in the cave above Big Golden and exit on the other side of the tunnel.
66b	Méditation 8b+	overhang / traverse	Francis Hélias
start in Dessous Chics, downclimb at the yellow arrow, traverse 3m to the left and exit in the classical overhang of Dessous chics.
67	Géronimo 5	mantle / expo	-
to the opposite of black n°14, on the boulder of Dessous Chics (8a+).
68	La Mandarine 5	slab	-
direct slab to the right of the Western face of Le Mandolinier (black n°43).
69	Mandopilier 5+	pillar	-
to the right of black n°43.
70	La Carambole 6b (6c)	slab / crimps	-
to the left of black n°14, in a corridor.
72	- 6b	arete	-
left arete (without the pedestal), on the boulder of Fatman, along the blue path.
72'	Fatman 8a+	roof	Jacky Godoffe
beyond Big Boss, along the blue path. Start low on a mono in the middle of the roof and undercling underneath. Still possible after destruction of the holds?
72b	Fatman assis 8b	roof / sitstart	Fred Nicole
No longer possible after destruction of holds?
73	Gourmandise 8b	roof	Vincent Cantrelle
to the right of Fatman, along the blue path. Standing start start to the right of the roof with the first underclings, traverse along the edge of the roof of Fatman and exit via the left arete.
73b	The Traphouse 8b+	roof	Paul Robinson
to the right of Fatman, along the blue path. Start in Gourmandise and exit directly in Le Dernier Fléau.
73c	Le Dernier Fléau 8c	roof	Sébastien Frigault
on the boulder of Fatman, along the blue path. Sitstart as for Fatman, traverse on the right in the roof towards Gourmandise and exit directly.
74	La Discrète 7a+ (7b)	traverse fltr / wall / high	-
to the left of red n°4. Start in the corridor to the left with underclings, traverse to the start of Big Mama, take the good hold 1m50 to its right and exit directly in La Tête de Veau with crimps (22 moves).
74b	Discrétion Totale 7a+	traverse fltr / crimps	-
variant of La Discrète, to the right of red n°4. Start in the corridor to the left with underclings, traverse on crimps after the start of Big Mama, and exit completely to the right (22 moves).
75	Big Mama 7a	prow / high	Eric Létot / Jos Leenen
overhanging prow to the right of Fatman.
75b	Big Mama assis 7a (7a+)	overhang / arete / sitstart	Jos Leenen
sitstart of Big Mama, on the overhanging prow to the right of Fatman.
76	Ticket Chic 6a	wall / high	-
sortie de gauche de La Tête de Veau, dans le mur marbré situé à droite de Big Mama, le long du sentier bleu sur le bloc juste après Fatman.
77	La Tête de Veau 6a	wall / crimps / high	-
direct problem in the marbled wall to the right of Big Mama, along the blue path past Fatman.
78	Ticket Choc 6a	wall / crimps	-
sortie de droite de La Tête de Veau, dans le mur marbré situé à droite de Big Mama, le long du sentier bleu sur le bloc juste après Fatman.

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