Bleau.info : Restant du Long Rocher : Topo

thanks to David Evrard

At the Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau, take the D58 in direction of Bourron-Marlotte and continue by turning right 2km500 after (Carrefour de Diane) for 3km800 till the entrance of Bourron-Marlotte. Take La Route de la Grande Vallée on the right and then La Route de la Plaine Verte, and park the car at its end. The red circuit and the numerous variants are on both sides of La Route de la Plaine Verte, 400m from the parking lot.
For the other sectors of this wide area, see the Grotte Béatrix sector and the Grandes Vallées sector.

		Circuit TD red (nº 3)
1	Le Dé 5-	slightly overhanging	-
2	Le Portique 6a	slightly overhanging	-
3	Élixir de Bouldering 6a+	traverse	-
4	Les Colonnes 4	wall / expo	-
5	L'Expo d'Enfer 5-	traverse fltr / wall	-
5 bis	Destroy Men 6c+ (6c)	traverse frtl / roof	Michel Grillère
topo 5 | traverse under the roof and exit to the left of the prow
6	L'Anonyme 5	wall	-
7	La Chamoniarde 5+	crack / slopers	-
chockstone
8	La Fiole 4+	wall / crack	-
9	L'Œuf 5	wall	-
10	Le Triangle 5	expo	-
11	La Dalle 4+	slab / expo	-
12	La Tricotante 5-	slab	-
13	L'Inconnue 4	arete / pockets	-
14	Le Biceps 5-	wall / underclings	-
15	Les Lames 5-	mantle	-
16	Aux Doigts et à l'Œil 6b (6c)	pockets / dyno	-
direct sitstart (5c with the former standing start version).
17	The Cat 5	slab	-
18	L'Avancée 4	wall / high	-
19	Super Gratton 4-	slab	-
20	La Couleuvre 5	expo	-
in a corridor
21	L'Hyper Gratton 5	slab / crimps	-
22	Le Pascalien 5+	wall / pockets / high	-
23	L'Impossible 6a	wall / pockets / expo	-
24	L'Hypoténuse 4+	slab	-
25	L'Arête 4	arete	-
26	La Tendinite 6a	bidoigt / high	-
27	Balade sous les Toits 5+	high	-
28	L'Inverse 4+	wall	-
29	L'Os à Moelle 5-	wall / expo	-
30	La Gouttière 6a (6a+)	slightly overhanging / wall	-
to the left of the former 4c grade red n°30.
31	L'Impulsion 5+	overhang	-
32	L'Hétéroclite 4+	slab / expo	-
33	L'Hercule 5-	pockets / expo	-
34	L'Imparable 5	expo	-
		Outside the circuits
*	La sans But 6b+	sitstart	Christian Merimeche
direct exit without using the good hole
*	Le But à Mimich 6b	sitstart	David Evrard
exit to the right while using the good hole
*	Le Calice 7a (7a+)	wall / arete	Stéphan Denys
left arete (either direct or by starting on the right via underclings) on an isolated boulder in the South-Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart (7a+) by David Evrard, Stéphan Denys, Christian Mérimèche and Laurent Darlot. Access : from the parking lot, follow the Route de la Plaine Verte for 100m, take the blue path on the right (in direction of the red circuit). Turn right at a small path after the sectors Vigie and Papillon; the boulder, with a characteristic oval shape, can then be found on the left.
*	Sol Indiges 7c	slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Le Calice, at the South-East of the sector. Sitstart between Le Calice and Sol Invictus (without using the rock on the right as for this latter problem), climb the slightly overhanging wall by using the good undercling and a hold high on the left arete and exit directly with a crimp.
*	Sol Invictus 8a (8a+)	prow	Olivier Lebreton
prow exposed to the South just right of Le Calice. Access : from the parking lot, follow the Route de la Plaine Verte for 100m, take the blue path on the right (in direction of the red circuit). Turn right at a small path after the sectors Vigie and Papillon; the boulder, with a characteristic oval shape, can then be found on the left.
Sector circuit Rouge
1	Raplaplat 7a	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère
underneath Banzaï; sitstart, traverse to the left on slopers and exit at the angle
1'	- 6c+	-	-
two boulders to the left of red n°2.
2	Banzaï 7c+	overhang / expo	Sébastien Frigault / Christophe Laumone
6m high problem on the boulder underneath Élixir de Bouldering (red n°3); start in a cave to the left of an old 7a by Didier Gérardin.
2'	- 7a	wall / crimps / expo	Didier Gérardin
to the right of Banzaï, on the boulder of Élixir de Bouldering (red n°3).
3	- 6b	sitstart / arete	David Evrard
angle to the right of red n°5; exit to the right
3'	- 6a	wall	Michel Grillère
to the right and around the corner of red n°5.
4	Direct 6a	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
on the boulder of red n°5
5	Docteur Maboule 7c+ (8a)	wall / crimps / traverse frtl	Olivier Lebreton
start as for Destroy Men, but exit directly in the crimpsy wall above the overhang.
5'	Destroy Men (sortie directe) 7a	traverse frtl / roof	Michel Grillère
traverse under the roof as for Destroy Men (red n°5 bis) but exit directly by the prow at one of the two black arrows.
5''	Le Rouge ou le Noir 6c	overhang	Michel Grillère
backside of the boulder with red n°5.
6	Cadeau 6c	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
on the boulder of red n°5, in the corridor.
6'	Cadeau assis 7a	wall / crimps / sitstart	Michel Grillère
on the boulder of red n°5, in the corridor. Sitstart with an undercling and exit in Cadeau.
7	Beaubi 6b	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
to the right of red n°5 in the corridor
8	L'Envol 7a+	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
static or dynamic cimpsy wall between red n°7 and red n°6. (GPS: N48.353980 E2.735270)
9	Finesse 6c	wall / crimps / dyno	Michel Grillère
on the backside of the boulder with red n°8.
10	- 6b	traverse frtl	Michel Grillère
traverse on the left crossing red n°8
10'	- 6a+	traverse frtl	-
to the left of red n°8
11	La Bauge 6b (6c)	sitstart	Michel Grillère
12	Sandrénalyne 7b	wall / expo	Damien Roguiez
on a boulder to the right and above red n°15. (GPS: N48.353700 E2.734280)
13	La Boullasse 7a+	overhang / slopers / high	Laurent Darlot / Christian Merimeche
on the boulder to the right of red n°14, to the opposite of red n°13.
13'	La Boullasse assis 7b	overhang / slopers / sitstart	Laurent Darlot
on the boulder to the right of red n°14, to the opposite of red n°13; sitstart and exit via the slopers of La Boullasse.
13''	Balade de Printemps 6c+ (6c)	traverse fltr	Michel Grillère
10m behind red n°13. Sitstart, traverse on slopers and exit via the slab above the jug.
14	Vif Levant 6c	arete / sitstart	David Evrard
on a boulder in between red n°14 and red n°15
15	Toutaplat 6c	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère
on the boulder of red n°16; sitstart and traverse to the left on slopers without using the top of the boulder
15'	Aux Doigts et à l'Œil assis 7a	bidoigt / traverse fltr / sitstart	-
sitstart on the left, traverse with pockets and exit via Aux Doigts et à l'Œil (red n°16).
16	- 6b	wall	Michel Grillère
in between red n°22 and red n°23
17	La Mortaise 6c	arete / sitstart	Michel Grillère
to the right of red n°24
18	Franjus 7b	arete / toprope	Marc Serre
to the right of Cracoucass.
19	Cracoucass 7a	arete / slightly overhanging / dyno	Olivier Gargominy
jump start in between red n°26 and red n°29.
19	Cracoucass gauche 7a+	slightly overhanging / arete / dyno	Thomas Collignon / Rémi Perinet
between red n°26 and red n°29. Jump start as for Cracoucass but exit on the left at the top of the arete.
19'	- 5+	-	-
to the left of red n°30.
19b	Cracoucass assis 7b+ (7c)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Vincent Pochon / Olivier Lebreton
sitstart of Cracoucass, in between red n°26 and red n°29.
20	Le Trente Nerf 6c	traverse fltr / arete / sitstart	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
between red n°30 and red n°31; sitstart to the right of red n°30, climb the round arete and exit to the right of red n°31
21	La Valse des Doigts 7b	traverse fltr / bidoigt / sitstart	David Evrard
to the right of red n°31; sitstart on the left, low traverse to the right, pass the angle and exit completely right; easier with the holds on the top
22	Sur le Fil 6b+	arete	David Evrard
arete to the left of red n°19; exit to the right
23	Inaretable 6a (6b)	arete / sitstart	David Evrard
arete to the left on a boulder behind red n°26 and red n°27
24	Sac à Pof 6c+	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard
above red n°27; sitstart on the right, traverse on slopers and exit in Mise en Bouche
24b	Mise en Bouche 6a	sitstart	David Evrard
to the right of red n°27
25	Bruit de Cuvette 5	wall	David Evrard
on the boulder of red n°15.
26	La Traversée des Aïeux 6b+	traverse fltr / wall	David Evrard
traverse to the right and exit in red n°34 (there and back is 6c+)
27	Le Tub à Tonton David 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Christian Merimeche
sitstart in Élixir de Bouldering (red n°3) and exit by the bowl on the left.
27'	Les Anneaux 4+	wall / arete	-
black arrow to the left of Gymnastique aux Agrès and Portique (red n°2); climb the wall with the good holds on the arete
27''	Le Trapèze 6b	wall	-
black arrow to the left of Gymnastique aux Agrès and Portique (red n°2); direct version of Les Anneaux without the good holds on the arete
27'''	Gymnastique aux Agrès 7a	wall / crimps	-
black arrow to the left of Portique (red n°2) and to the right of the wall/arete of Le Trapèze and Les Anneaux; start with an undercling left hand, take a crimp right hand and another undercling left hand and exit in on slopers (GPS: N48.353920 E2.734820)
27''''	Gymnastique au Sol 7a+	wall / underclings / sitstart	-
black arrow to the left of Portique (red n°2) and to the right of the wall/arete of Le Trapèze and Les Anneaux; sitstart with an undercling, take a bidoigt right hand and another undercling left hand and exit in the wall as for Gymnastique aux Agrès (GPS: N48.353920 E2.734820)
28	Au Taquet 6c+	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard
on the backside of the boulder of Le Portique (red n°2); sitstart to the left and exit on slopers
29	Le Sot-l'y-Laisse 7a+	wall / slopers	Bruno Karaboghossian
start from the pit to the opposite of red n°4 without the small boulder on the left, and exit on slopers. (GPS: N48.353880 E2.734980)
30	Pierre Tombée 5	wall / sitstart	David Evrard
30'	- 6b	traverse fltr	David Evrard
exit to the right at the angle
31	Le Butaxav 6c+	traverse frtl	David Evrard / Michel Grillère
start at the angle, traverse to the left and exit in Pierre Tombée
32	La Salsa du Dément 7a+	traverse fltr / sitstart / expo	David Evrard
sitstart to the left, traverse in the slightly overhanging face and exit via the right angle.
33	Le Clems 7a	arete / sitstart	David Evrard
on the boulder of red n°32, 10m to the right of La Valse des Doigts. Sitstart at the left arete, follow that one using slopers and small pockets and exit as for Après le Dur c'est Dur. (GPS: N48.354030 E2.733970)
34	Après le Dur c'est Dur 7a+	wall / crimps	Christian Merimeche
on the boulder of red n°32, 10m to the right of La Valse des Doigts; direct wall to the right of Le Clems, without the aretes. (GPS: N48.354030 E2.733970)
35	Le V du Pied Gauche 6c	crimps / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère / David Evrard
on the boulder of red n°8; sitstart and exit on slopers via the prow
Sector Papillon
1	Le Point G 6a	wall	Michel Grillère
to the left of the blue path, next to the "G" mark; sitstart is 6b/6b+
2	Cochon de Terre 6a	arete	Igor De Poorter / Kobe Bellinkx
left arete on the boulder of Le Papillon (boulder with the character "H"). Standing start with an undercling left hand and a sloper right hand and exit via the arete.
2	La Pirouette 6c+	arete / sitstart	Igor De Poorter / Kobe Bellinkx
on the boulder with the character "H". Sitstart as for Le Papillon but exit on the left arete in Le Cochon de Terre.
2	Le Papillon 7a	overhang / mantle / sitstart	-
along the blue path, on the boulder marked "H"; sitstart on the left and exit directly
2	The Fire King 7a	traverse fltr / mantle	Igor De Poorter / Kobe Bellinkx
on the boulder with the character "H". Standing start with an undercling left hand and a sloper right hand, traverse to the right on the ledge (without using the horizontal crack above the roof by convention) and exit by a mantle as for Le Papillon.
3	La Boule d'Épaule 7a	roof / sitstart	Igor De Poorter / Kobe Bellinkx
along the blue path, near the boulder marked "K". Sitstart with two pockets as for U751 and exit on the left side of the prow.
3	U751 7b	overhang / traverse fltr / sitstart	Igor De Poorter / Kobe Bellinkx
along the blue path, just before the boulder marked "H". Sitstart with two pockets as for La Boule d'Épaule, traverse to the right along the prow and exit by the arete.
4	Cherche Pas 6c	wall / underclings / dyno	David Evrard
on the backside of the boulder of U751. Dyno to the top with the lowest undercling only.
5	La Laie 6a	wall / pockets	Michel Grillère
mur à trous au début du secteur
6	L'Angle 6b+	wall / pockets	Michel Grillère
mur à trous au début du secteur
Sector Vigie
1	La Vigie 6a+	wall / traverse frtl	Michel Grillère
on the backside of a long boulder along the blue path.
1'	L'Intégrale 7a+	traverse frtl / overhang / bidoigt	David Evrard
start in La Vigie, low traverse to the left in the overhang and exit in Vigipirate.
1''	- 7a	overhang / pockets / sitstart	-
sitstart as in Pandams, exit diagonally to the right in La Vigie.
2	Pandams 6c	overhang / bidoigt	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
sitstart in the overhang on the right and exit directly. (GPS: N48.353490 E2.731080)
2'	Vigipirate 7a	overhang / bidoigt / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart in the overhang, low traverse and exit to the left. (GPS: N48.353490 E2.731080)
2''	La Sev 6c+	overhang / bidoigt / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart in the overhang, traverse in the middle and exit in Vigipirate. (GPS: N48.353490 E2.731080)
3	Le Cheval d'Arçons 6c	overhang / sitstart	Michel Grillère
to the left of the blue path.
4	- 6c	traverse fltr / overhang / sitstart	Michel Grillère
along the blue path, near the boulder marked "K". Traverse to the left and exit without the big jug.
5	- 6b	wall	Michel Grillère
in a pit to the left of the blue path.
6	Youp Là! 6a+	wall / crimps	David Evrard
to the right of the blue path.
6'	Youp Là assis 6c	wall / crimps / sitstart	Christian Roïk
sitstart of Youp Là!, to the right of the blue path.
Sector Ellipse
1	Equilips 6a	wall / sitstart	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
sitstart to the right of L'Ellipse
1'	L'Ellipse 7a	traverse / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard / Damien Roguiez
20m to the right of La Route de la Plaine Verte. Sitstart, low traverse to the left, then back with the slopers on the top and exit above the starting point.
2	Dévers s'y Colle 7a	overhang / dyno / slopers	David Evrard
about 20m to the left of La Route de la Plaine Verte; jumpstart and exit via slopers
2'	La Gueule 6c	slopers	-
right variant of Dévers s'y Colle.
3	- 7a	traverse frtl	David Evrard
about 20m to the left of La Route de la Plaine Verte; traverse to the left and exit before Dévers s'y Colle.
4	La Casquette 7b	traverse fltr / slopers	David Evrard
about 20m to the right of La Route de la Plaine Verte; ascending traverse and exit via slopers.
5	La Boule 6c	dyno / slopers	Michel Grillère
boule en départ assis sur la droite du bloc
5'	La Boule assis 7a	slopers / dyno / sitstart	David Evrard
sitstart at the right angle and exit in La Boule.
5''	Le Cachalot 6b	traverse frtl / slopers	Michel Grillère
start at the crack to the right of La Boule and traverse on slopers
5'''	L'Intégrale du Cachalot 7a	traverse frtl / slopers	Michel Grillère
start at the angle of La Boule, traverse to the left and exit via Le Cachalot.
5''''	L'Intégrale du Cachalot assis 7b	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart at the angle of La Boule, traverse to the left and exit via Le Cachalot.
6	- 6c	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
left problem
7	- 6c	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
8	- 6c	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
9	- 6a+	wall / crimps	Michel Grillère
right problem of the wall; easier with the good hold on the right
10	Viande ou Poisson 6b (6c)	wall / sitstart	Michel Grillère
sitstart and exit with the aretes (6b) or without (6c)
		Outside the topo
L'Angle à Xav 6a+		arete / sitstart	-
left arete on the boulder of Tim, 10m to the left of the boulder of Les Tchèques. Access : go up the slope for 50m to the right of the road, 100m before the parking lot. (GPS: N48.352889 E2.725472)
Tim 5+		wall / sitstart	-
10m to the left of the boulder of Merci Les Tchèques. Access : go up the slope for 50m to the right of the road, 100m before the parking lot. (GPS: N48.352889 E2.725472)
Dédicace à Michel direct 6c		overhang / sitstart	Laurent Darlot
left problem on the boulder of Merci Les Tchèques. Sitstart under the crack and exit by that one on slopers. Access : go up the slope for 50m to the right of the road, 100m before the parking lot. (GPS: N48.352889 E2.725472)
Dédicace à Michel 6c+ (7a)		overhang / sitstart	David Evrard
left problem on the boulder of Merci Les Tchèques. Sitstart completely left, catch the crack by a dynamic move and exit by that one on slopers. Access : go up the slope for 50m to the right of the road, 100m before the parking lot. (GPS: N48.352889 E2.725472)
Les Tchèques droite 6c+		overhang / traverse frtl / sitstart	David Evrard
on the boulder of Merci Les Tchèques. Sitstart to the right, traveser to the left and exit on slopers at the left crack. Access : go up the slope for 50m to the right of the road, 100m before the parking lot. (GPS: N48.352889 E2.725472)
Merci les Tchèques 6c		overhang / sitstart	Michel Grillère
on an isolated boulder before the parking lot. Sitstart in the middle of the face under the crack and exit slightly left. Access : go up the slope for 50m to the right of the road, 100m before the parking lot. (GPS: N48.352889 E2.725472)

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