Bleau.info : Rocher Brûlé : Topo

thanks to Gilles Bapteste & Elric Besnier

This small area near Moret-sur-Loinghas been discovered very recently and about 15 problems most of them of grade 6 and 7 can bee found. From Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque at Fontainebleau, follow the N6 in direction of Moret-sur-Loing for 4km500 and at the roundabout (Carrefour de la Croix de Montmorin), take the D301 (route Ronde) on the right in direction of Mourron-Marlotte and park the car on the left after 1km. Follow La Route de la Prise for 800m; the boulders are on its right side, 200m after the crossing with La Route de Montmorin.

1	Crème Brûlée 7c+	roof / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart under the roof and exit in the marbled face on crimps.
2	69, Rhue de la Convention 7a (8c)	roof / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart under the roof as for Crème Brûlée, stay in that one and exit right before the tunnel.
3	Donuts 7a+ (7a)	roof / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
left problem on the boulder of Crème Brûlée. Sitstart with a pocket and exit above the broken hold.
4	Chat Perché 7b	roof / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart to the left of the roof as for Donuts, traverse diagonally and exit in Le 6a.
5	Le Mille-Feuilles 6c	roof / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart to the left as for Donuts, traverse with the ledge of the roof and exit in Le 6a.
6	Le Mille et Une Feuilles 6c	roof / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart to the left of the roof as for Donuts, low traverse and exit 1m to the right of Le 6a.
7	Éclair au Chocolat 7b	traverse fltr / roof / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart to the left as for Donuts, traverse to the right under the ledge of the roof and exit just after the tunnel.
8	Éclair à la Vanille 7b	roof / traverse fltr / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart to the left as for Donuts, traverse under the ledge of the roof and exit completely right after the tunnel.
9	Donuts debout 6c+ (7a)	wall	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
standing start of the left problem on the boulder of Crème Brûlée; exit above the broken hold.
10	Crème Brûlée debout 7c	wall / crimps	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
standing start and exit via crimps in the marbled face.
11	Le 6a 5+	wall / crack	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
standing start and exit via the crack.
12	Buffet à Volonté 7a (7b)	traverse fltr	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
start completely left before the angle, traverse the face and exit by Le Thé, under the small boulder on the top.
13	Entrées 4+ (3)	wall / slopers / underclings	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
direct problem with an undercling on the right face (3b with the angle).
14	Plats 4+ (7a)	wall / slab / slopers	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
direct problem via the gully.
15	Desserts 4+ (7a)	wall / crimps / slopers	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
direct problem to the right of the gully.
16	Le Thé 5+	wall / crimps / slopers	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
direct problem to the right of the angle.
17	Le Toast 4	wall / crimps / slopers	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
direct wall under the small boulder on the top.
18	La Poêle 3+	arete / slopers	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
at the angle.
18	La Poêle assis 5-	arete / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart and exit in La Poêle.
18b	Ffwiit 6a (6c+)	dyno	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
dynamic problem.
19	Le Chou de Brutexelle 7a (8c)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart at the root.
20	La Mousse au Chocolat 4+ (7a)	wall	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
start from the small mossy boulder.
21	Le Réta 4+ (7a)	wall / mantle	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
direct problem on the boulder to the right of Crème Brûlée.
22	HLM de droite 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart at the angle with marbled holds and a vertical crimp and exit directly via the angle.
22b	HLM de gauche 6a (6a+)	slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart at the angle with marbled holds and a vertical crimp and exit in the left face using pockets.
23	La Psychose de Jeff 7a	arete / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart and climb the evident arete.
24	La Théorie des Jeux 8b (8a+)	prow / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart under the angle with a good crimp left hand and a sloper right hand, and exit to the top.
24	La Théorie des Jeux debout 6b	prow / slopers	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
standing start and exit on the prow.
25	Mr Poppers 7a (8c)	wall / crack / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart under the crack and exit on the right with a mantle.
26	Temps Pis sur Toit 4+ (7a)	wall / sitstart	Gilles Bapteste / Elric Besnier
sitstart of a vertical problem.
		Outside the topo
La Fissure de la Petite Hercule 4		crack / pockets	Sébastien Papillon
on the Western face of La Petite Roche d'Hercule (sitstart is 5b). Access : from the classical sector, continue for 500m on La Route de la Prise and take to the right La Route du Rocher Brûlé. The boulder is at a bend of the path.
La Traversée de la Petite Hercule 5-		traverse fltr / pockets	Sébastien Papillon
start in La Fissure de la Petite Hercule, traverse to the right and exit to the right of Le Mur de la Petite Hercule. Access : from the classical sector, continue for 500m on La Route de la Prise and take to the right La Route du Rocher Brûlé. The boulder is at a bend of the path.
Le Pilier de la Petite Hercule 4-		pillar / pockets	Sébastien Papillon
evident pillar on the Petite Roche d'Hercule (sitstart is 4c). Access : from the classical sector, continue for 500m on La Route de la Prise and take to the right La Route du Rocher Brûlé. The boulder is at a bend of the path.
Le Mur de la Petite Hercule 3+		wall / pockets	Sébastien Papillon
2m to the right of Le Pilier de la Petite Hercule, on the South face of the boulder. Access : from the classical sector, continue for 500m on La Route de la Prise and take to the right La Route du Rocher Brûlé. The boulder is at a bend of the path.
Le Mur Nord de la Petite Hercule 5-		wall / sitstart	Sébastien Papillon
on the North face of the Petite Roche d'Hercule. Access : from the classical sector, continue for 500m on La Route de la Prise and take to the right La Route du Rocher Brûlé. The boulder is at a bend of the path.
La Traversée du Gruyère 5		traverse frtl / pockets / sitstart	Sébastien Papillon
from la Petite Roche d'Hercule, take a small path on the other side of La Route du Rocher Brûlé. The boulder is 100m further on the left.
Le Steak 2+		slab	-
2m to the right of the arete of La Poêle.

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