Bleau.info : Moulin de Roisneau : Topo

thanks to Gérald Coste

This sector is located on the right bank of the river Essonne, to the opposite of Le Rempart d'Argeville, between Nanteau and Chantambre. The simplest access consists in taking the road of Buthiers (from Chapelle-la-Reine or by the D410) but just before the village, take the D53a in direction of Nanteau and Villetard for 4km900. Park just after a marked bend on the right, along the river (the boulders are visible from road). From the parking lot, take a path for 50m to the East, and then left in directly in the slope. Most o the problems are near the top of the hill.
Caution! This sector is on a private plot, reserved to hunters in winter. One should be particularly discrete and respectful of the site, avoiding especially week-ends and hunting days.

1	Le Marbre 5-	slab	Gérald Coste / Romain Hocquemiller
completely to the left of the sector. Direct slab 1m to the left of the crack.
2	Rescue Claudio 5+	wall / crack	Romain Bony / Gérald Coste
crack left hand completely to the left of the sector. Start on the step with a small undercling.
3	Le Moignon 7b+	wall	Thomas Collignon
completely to the left of the sector. Direct wall 1m to the right of the crack of Rescue Claudio..
5	La Terre 6a	slightly overhanging	Yano Salaün
on the left of the sector. Start with vertical crimps right hand and exit to the left.
6	Roulement à Billes 6b	arete	Thomas Collignon
on the left of the sector. 7b without the jugs on the right.
7	Serre et Baffe 7a+	wall / crimps	Gérald Coste
on the left of the sector, to the right of the arete of Roulement à Billes. Start with a painful crimp left hand and a sloper right hand.
8	La Médaille 6b	wall	Gérald Coste
on the left of the sector. Direct wall 1m50 to the right of Serre et Baffe.
10	La Tartiflette 7a+	slopers / expo	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
diagonal to the right, on the left of the sector; exit on slopers on a sandy rock.
11	Arrache-moi si tu Peux 6a	wall / crack	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
direct crack 1m to the left of Le Couloir, on the left of the sector.
12	Le Couloir 6a	wall	Gérald Coste
on the left of the sector. Start with a crimp and an undercling and go diagonally to the right.
14	Le Volant à Droite 5+	wall / mantle / dyno	Cyril Bottollier
on the left of the sector, on the boulder of Triple X. Jump start in the corridor and exit diagonally to the left.
15	Triple X 6c+	arete	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
at the left of the sector, on the boulder to the left of Bloqu'X. Start with the two hands on a characteristic "claw" and exit directly or via the slab on the right.
16	Reta X 7a	mantle / dyno	Romain Hocquemiller
on the left of the sector. Jump start and exit directly.
17	Four Wall Three 4	slab	Cyril Bottollier / Romain Hocquemiller
on the left of the sector. Left problem in the slab to the opposite of Bloqu'X.
18	Four Wall Two 4-	slab	Cyril Bottollier / Romain Hocquemiller
on the left of the sector. Central problem in the slab to the opposite of Bloqu'X.
19	Four Wall One 4	slab	Gérald Coste / Romain Hocquemiller
on the left of the sector. Right problem in the slab to the opposite of Bloqu'X.
20	La Boule 5-	arete	Gérald Coste
on the left of the sector. Arete left hand to the opposite of Triple X.
21	Mono X 6c+	wall	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
at the left of the sector. Direct wall to the opposite of the arete of Triple X.
22	Bloqu'X 7a+	wall / expo	Gérald Coste / Romain Hocquemiller
to the left of the sector. Direct wall above a stone in a corridor.
23	Vive le Surf 7c+ (8a)	arete	Thomas Collignon
on the left of the sector. Start with the arete left hand and a pinch right hand.
24	Jet'X 6b	dyno / underclings	Romain Hocquemiller
on the left of the sector, 1m50 to the right of the arete, with sandy underclings.
26	Desperados 7b+	prow / slightly overhanging / slopers	Lucas Ménégatti / Nils Ménégatti
overhanging prow at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart and exit on slopers on the right.
28	Pedro l'Âne 5-	crack	Cyril Bottollier
dirty crack between the two boulders, to the left of Fragile.
29	Fragile 6a	arete	Cyril Bottollier
5m to the left of Basique.
30	Basique 7a+	prow / slightly overhanging / expo	Thomas Collignon / Romain Hocquemiller
start as for Arobase, but stay in the overhanging face and climb the arete right hand.
31	Arobase 6c (7a)	wall	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
start with the overhanging arete as for Basique but exit in the right wall.
32	Traverse-moi 5+	traverse fltr	Eric Létot
traverse diagonally using the crack to the right of Arobase.
33	Baïkonour 6b	arete	Cyril Bottollier
morpho start.
34	Flytox 6a+	slab / expo	Cyril Bottollier / Nicolas Blaise
just right of the arete of Baïkonour.
35	Peter Pan 6b+	slab / expo	Nicolas Blaise / Eric Létot
in the center of the face, to the right o f Flytox.
36	Albatros, c'est Trop 6a	dihedral	Cyril Bottollier
morpho.
37	Plutôt Vague 6a	wall	Cyril Bottollier / Nicolas Blaise
to the left of the prow of Fa Gaff.
38	Fa Gaff 7c	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Lucas Ménégatti
to the opposite of Baïkonour. Sitstart in an evident wave-shaped prow and exit directly without using the right face of the boulder.
39	Le Kurde 7b	arete / expo	Thomas Collignon
arete right hand; standing start in a pit.
39	Le Kurde assis 7c	arete / expo / sitstart	Thomas Collignon
arete right hand; sitstart in a pit.
41	Le Palper-Rouler 6a	wall / mantle	Cyril Bottollier
to the left of Le Malade Imaginaire.
42	Le Malade Imaginaire 6a	wall / mantle	Nicolas Blaise
to the left of La Dalle à Marie; start in a pit.
43	Los Bonitos 7b+	wall / crimps / slopers	Thomas Collignon / Gérald Coste
direct wall in a pit. Start on marbled crimps and exit on slopers, without using the crack of Faute de Grives on the right.
44	Faute de Grives 5-	crack	Cyril Bottollier
crack just right of Los Bonitos, in a pit.
45	Bout de Gras 5+	mantle	Eric Létot
to the opposite of Los Bonitos, in a pit.
46	La Dalle à Marie 4+	slab	Eric Létot
to the opposite of Los Bonitos. Start right in the pit, traverse to the left and exit via the slab.
48	Blacks Out 5+	slab	Cyril Bottollier
in the corridor.
49	Chipsophile 6a	slab	Nicolas Blaise / Cyril Bottollier
to the opposite of the slab of Black Out.
53	Capital Flemme 5-	wall / arete	Gérard Delmont / Cyril Bottollier
to the left of the face; with the arete.
54	Capitaine Flam 5	wall	Cyril Bottollier
to the left of the face; without the arete.
55	Polémique 6b	wall	Eric Létot
2m to the left of the tree, above a stone.
56	L'Ami de L'Arbre 6b (6c)	arete	Gérald Coste / Romain Hocquemiller
arete right hand.
57	L'Ébéniste 5+	arete / wall	Gérald Coste / Romain Hocquemiller
diagonal to the right; same exit as for La Marie-Jeanne.
58	Gris-Gris 5+	wall	Cyril Bottollier
direct wall between L'Ébéniste and La Marie-Jeanne (morpho).
59	La Marie-Jeanne 5-	wall	Eric Létot
La Marie-Rose-type wall 1m to the right of the arete. Same exit as for L'Ébéniste.
60	Le Mangeur de Graines 6c	wall / dyno	Romain Bony / Antoine Bony
direct wall 2m to the left of Warm Up; dynamic exit (morpho).
61	Warm Up 5	wall / underclings	Eric Létot
wall with a big undercling 1m50 to the left of the arete of Yak Yak Yak.
62	Yak Yak Yak 7a+	arete	Romain Hocquemiller
on the right of the sector. Climb the arete right hand and exit via the bowl.
63	Moab 5+	crack / expo	Gérald Coste / Romain Hocquemiller
on the right of the sector, to the right of the arete of Yak Yak Yak.
65	Farfagasse 6a	arete / expo	Nicolas Blaise
arete left hand on the right of the sector; expo.
65	Simple 6a	arete / expo	Romain Hocquemiller
on the right of the sector. Variant of Farfagasse, starting with the arete right hand.
66	Falloudjah 6b (6c)	wall	Cyril Bottollier
direct problem on the right of the sector.
67	La Fissure à Louise 4	crack	Louise Blaise
2m to the right of Falloudjah, on the right of the sector.
68	Proxima 5	wall	Cyril Bottollier / Nicolas Blaise
3m to the right of Falloudjah, on the right of the sector.
69	Malin et Demi 5-	wall	Eric Létot
small wall 4m to the right of Falloudjah, on the right of the sector. Start on a big step and do not use the right arete.
70	Le Sabre 6b	slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	Lucas Ménégatti
low sitstart.
71	35 Heurts 5-	wall / mantle	Cyril Bottollier
on the boulder underneath the arete of Yak Yak Yak.
73	Pin Bénit 4	wall	Cyril Bottollier
wall to the right of Calme Plat.
74	Calme Plat 6b (6c)	wall	Cyril Bottollier
left problem.
		Outside the topo
La Dülf Coquine 6a+		crack / high	-
start just under the crack of Rescue Claudio and climb it right hand.
Beauté Cachée 6a		slightly overhanging / dyno	Pepito
in the left part of the sector, on the boulder to the left of the one with Roulement à Billes.
Graine de Plaisir 6b		wall / arete	Pepito
climb the face to the left of Fragile with the arete right hand.

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