Bleau.info : Bois Rond : Topo

thanks to Bernard Théret

From the parking lot along the D64, to the opposite of the road toward La Canche aux Merciers, take a small path for 150m and turn right at Le Chemin du Bois Rond; the start of the red circuit can be found on the right after 150m and those of the other circuits are 100m further.
These can also be reached from l'Auberge du Bois Rond, by following the TMF and turning left at Le Chemin du Bois Rond (same distance; recommended in case of affluence).

1	Les Envahisseurs 7a+	prow	Stéphane Brette
prow to the right of blue n°27, on the boulder of the start of the red circuit.
1	Les Envahisseurs assis 7b	prow / sitstart	-
on the boulder at the start of the red circuit. Sitstart with the vertical crack just right of the angle of blue n°27 and exit by the prow of Les Envahisseurs.
2	Les Enfants d'Abord 7b+	slab	Frédéric Quentin
direct slab to the left of blue n°27.
3	Petite Insoutenable 6c	crack / sitstart	Jos Leenen
sitstart in the crack of red n°3. NB : opened with a 7b method; a new one has then been discovered.
4	Nouvelle Vague 6a+ (6b)	wall	-
to the left of the tree
5	La Gouttière 3+ (4-)	wall / crack	-
to the right of the tree.
6	Des Équilibres 7a	traverse frtl / wall	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder with red n°3. Start to the right of La Gouttière, low traverse to the left and exit in Nouvelle Vague.
7	Muraille de Chine 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the boulder with orange n°33 (facing red n°4 and red n°5); start on slopers in an overhanging wall and exit up via a small pocket after a big jug
8	La Croisière Jaune 7b (7b+)	traverse fltr / slopers	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of orange n°33 (to the right of red n°4 and red n°5). Rallongation of Muraille de Chine by exiting via the slab.
9	La Bombe Humaine 7b (7a+)	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
belly to the left of former red n°4; low start with two hands on a crimp and exit on slopers
9'	La Bombe Humaine assis 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart to the left of La Bombe Humaine and exit logically to its right, in former red n°4.
10	Bruits de Couloir 7a	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
start in the dihedron to the left of red n°4 and exit in red n°5; there is a lengthened version starting at the beginning of the face to the right of a red triangle (7b/7b+, not always in good condition)
11	L'Esprit de la Grimpe 7b	traverse frtl / crimps	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
start at the angle to the right of red n°6 and exit in red n°8 after a technical and crimpsy traverse.
12	Pierre Ponce 6a+ (6b)	wall / crimps	-
between red n°7 and red n°8.
12'	L'Entre-Deux 6c (7a)	wall / slab / dyno	Alexandre Dejean
between red n°7 and red n°8. Start in the wall/slab with crimps, dyno to the top and exit directly.
13	Le Grand Chauve Sourit 7b+	overhang / sitstart	Didier Gérardin
on the boulder to the left of blue n°1. Sitstart in the overhang and exit directly.
14	Le Mastodompté 8a	overhang / traverse fltr / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the boulder to the left of blue n°1. Sitstart and climb the overhang as for Le Grand Chauve Sourit, but continue by the back traverse of Plâtre et Ciment to the right of the boulder.
15	Poutre et Plâtre / Le Chacal 7b+	traverse frtl	Bernard Théret / Jean-Pierre Bouvier
physical traverse on the boulder facing blue n°1; same exit as Le Grand Chauve Sourit.
16	Jo Dalton 7a+	slightly overhanging	Jo Montchaussé
on the boulder of Lucky Luke? Direct problem to the left of blue n°30 (without its good hold and exit to the left of the arete).
17	Sensation 7b+	dyno / slopers	Didier Gérardin
between red n°10 and red n°11, to the right of Lucky Luke.
18	Lucky Luke 7c	wall / crimps	Marc Le Ménestrel
between red n°10 and red n°11, to the left of Sensation, without the slopers of this one.
19	Le Sabot 6a (6b)	traverse fltr	-
on the right face of the boulder with red n°9.
20	La Ballade des Gens Heureux 6c (6c+)	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder with blue n°1. Start at the beginning of the face to the left of blue n°1, traverse to the right and exit in orange n°1 (6b+/6c by exiting in the red triangle)
21	- 5+	wall	-
red triangle on the backside of the boulder with blue n°1.
21'	Little Arètemetics 7a+	arete / slopers / sitstart	Ivan Moreels
sitstart of the arete to the left of the red triangle.
22	Basses Calories 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl	-
start in blue n°2, low traverse to the left, do the back traverse of red n°12 and exit at the end.
23	La Quille 6b+ (6c)	prow / slopers / sitstart	Bernard Théret
underneath red n°10. Climb the prow by using only the holds to the left of the crack and exit via slopers. NB : a direct dyno from a sitstart to the right is also possible (7a/b approximately).
23'	La Fausse Quille 6c (6c+)	overhang / prow	Bernard Théret
underneath red n°10; start in the face to the left, traverse to the right and exit in La Quille by using only the holds to the left of the crack
24	Jappe Renard 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder of La Quille, underneath red n°10; start in the slab to the left, low traverse to the right and exit 1m50 after the angle; there and back is 6c+/7a
25	Filanzane 6b+ (6c)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Bernard Théret
on the backside of the boulder against the one with red n°13 and red n°14; sitstart in a small roof and exit in the slightly overhanging face
26	- 5+	wall	-
to the left of orange n°4, on the backside of the boulder with red n°13 and red n°14.
27	Cascade 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / crack	-
on the backside of the boulder with red n°15. Start just left of the angle with the two hands on oblique holds, low traverse to the right and exit by a mantle up the crack of F1 (crack with a red triangle).
27'	Cascades en Chaîne 7b	traverse	-
there and back of Cascade, on the backside of the boulder of red n°15.
27''	Sous Toi / La Canche aux Merciers 7b	traverse fltr	-
long traverse on the boulder of red n°15. Sitstart in the overhang as for red n°15 bis, traverse to the right at orange n°6, pass the round angle, continue on a ledge and exit in the face, downclimb on oblique holds as for Cascade and exit in that one by a mantle above a crack with a red triangle.
28	F1 6b (6b+)	crack / sitstart / mantle	-
sitstart of the crack with a red triangle on the backside of the boulder of red n°15, either from the left, or directly.
29	La Dent Fer 6a+ (6b)	slightly overhanging / arete	-
slightly overhanging angle to the left of red n°16.
29'	La Dent Fer assis 7b	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Daniel Warren
sitstart of La Dent Fer, on the slightly overhanging angle to the left of red n°16.
30	Le Skatteur 6a+ (6b)	sitstart / crack / slab	-
sitstart of red n°16.
31	Rustine et Tintin 5+	wall / sitstart	-
32	La Tendue 6a	-	-
sitstart and exit to the right of the crack.
33	Haras Dusol 6a (6a+)	sitstart / wall	-
sitstart to the left and exit in the face.
34	Remue-Ménage 6b+ (6c)	traverse frtl / slopers	-
start between two boulders and do an ascending traverse to the left
35	Hélas-Tic 6c+ (6c)	arete / wall	Bernard Théret
on the boulder of Balade sur Plats and red n°21 ter, 15m behind orange n°17.
36	Balade sur Plats 7b	traverse fltr / slopers	-
on a boulder under red n°21, L'Encéphalite (red n°21 ter) and Le Tourniquet (in direction of the motorway); start as left, traverse on slopers and exit past the angle (there and back is 7c+)
37	L'Humus Tangue 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr	-
start to the left near the tree, traverse to the right and exit in the gully.
38	Odeur 6b+ (6c)	arete / slopers / sitstart	-
sitstart with hands in pockets and exit via slopers.
39	Brut de Grès / Traverse-Mania 6b+ (6c)	traverse fltr	-
to the right of orange n°10; exit by the gully.
40	Le Proto-Colle aux Fanes 6b	traverse fltr / slopers	-
traverse to the right and exit just before the tree. There and back is 6c; it is also possible to continue via Le Galopin (6b+; 6c/7a with the back traverse)?
41	Le Galopin 6a	traverse fltr	-
start to the right of the tree, traverse to the right and exit in the wall.
42	Spider Bloc 7a+	slightly overhanging / dyno	Jo Montchaussé / Marc Montchaussé
direct problem to the right of Le Meilleur des Mondes (red n°22), exit via U-shaped hole in top
43	Dr Nimbus 6a+	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart with the jug 1m to the left of the start of red n°23 and exit directly.
44	Cumulus 6c+ (6c)	overhang	-
downclimb red n°23 and exit in Dr Nimbus.
44'	Stratus 7a	traverse / overhang	-
there and back of red n°23 and exit in Dr Nimbus.
45	Spinatus 6b	overhang / slopers	-
direct version of La Théorie des Nuages (red n°23). Start to the left under the overhang and exit directly via slopers.
46	La Poussée Occulte assis 6c	sitstart / arete	-
sitstart of red n°24.
47	Extraction Lente 6b	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
on the boulder to the left of orange n°21. Start in the pit, right hand on a crimp and left hand on a sloper (sitstart is 6c/7a).
48	Bande Passante 7a+	traverse fltr / underclings	Jo Montchaussé
prolongation of red n°26 bis: low traverse with underclings after the arete and exit with right ledge
48'	Jeu de Main, Jeu de Malin 7b	traverse frtl	-
start in Jeu de Mains, Jeu de Vilain (red n°26 bis), but exit low.
49	Pente Douce 6a+ (6b)	traverse frtl	-
traverse on the faces.
50	L'Extra-Wagon 6b+	traverse frtl	-
traverse on two faces and exit via a pocket in the left wall.
51	Geyser 6a	sitstart / prow	-
on the boulder to the right of blue n°18. Sitstart under the angle and exit to the right.
51'	Haïdouk 6a+	sitstart / prow	-
on the boulder to the right of blue n°18. Sitstart under the angle and exit to the left.
52	- 6a+	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart at the beginning of red n°30.
53	Le Choix dans la Date 6a	wall / sitstart	-
54	Le Rat Mage 6a+	traverse fltr	-
traverse to the right and exit at a blue arrow.
55	Le Petit Pin 6a+ (6b)	sitstart / traverse fltr / wall	-
sitstart in blue n°20, traverse to the right and exit at the tree.
55'	Le Pain Bis 6c	sitstart / traverse fltr / wall	-
sitstart in blue n°20, traverse to the right and exit 2m past Le Petit Pin.
56	Le Singe Rit 6a+	traverse frtl / wall	-
partir en bas à droite sous le n°21 bleu, traverser à gauche sur la rampe et sortir dans le n°31 rouge.
57	Angle-Ish 5+	wall / arete	-
on the face to the left of blue n°22. Start left hand at the arete and exit directly.
58	Mur l'Ish 6c (7a)	wall / crimps	-
to the left of blue n°22.
59	Vraie Grandeur 6b+	traverse fltr	-
start before red n°37 but low traverse with the hands in the jug of blue n°23 and exit in red n°37.
60	Sirop Tusser 6b	wall / arete	-
at the angle to the left of orange n°27.
61	Mer de la Tranquillité 7a	wall / crimps / sitstart	Bernard Théret
sitstart to the left of L'Épreuve du Pygmée (red n°36) with the undercling left hand and a good hold right hand, and exit to the left in the crimpsy wall.
62	Le Boulet 5	sitstart / mantle	-
sitstart at the jug and exit via a mantle.
63	Plat Acide 6b+ (6c)	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
start left hand with a sloper, right hand with a crimp and exit directly.
64	Tourne à Gauche 6a+	wall / slopers	Bernard Théret
start with a sloper right hand and a crimp left hand and exit directly.
65	Banc de Touche 7b+	traverse frtl	-
start after the angle (end of Rempart), traverse to the left and exit in red n°35
66	Rempart (Galla Lactique) 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr	Didier Gérardin
prolongation of red n°34 by exiting via the right arete.
67	Voyage Gallactique 7b+	traverse / slightly overhanging	-
there and back of red n°34 and exit via the arete of red n°33.
68	Constellation des Amoureux 6c+ (7a)	overhang / wall	Alain Vinouze / Arnaud Ansard
red 35 | start low in the overhang. Update (May 2009) : the flake at the start of this problem has become very loose. Please avoid to climb it!
69	Obli-Yettes 6b	sitstart / roof / wall	-
red 36 | to the right and around the corner of Le Temps Emporte l'Auvent (red n°35); sitstart in the back, then go up the slope and leave the overhang through the small wall
70	Bleu de Rage 6c+	traverse fltr / arete	-
start in red n°38, traverse to the left and exit in blue n°24.
71	Bouddha Peste 7a	traverse fltr / slopers	-
start in blue n°24, traverse to the left via slopers and exit in red n°39.
72	Bleu Roy 6c (7a)	traverse fltr / arete	-
start at the end of red n°38, traverse to the right and exit in blue n°24.
73	Congestion 6b+	wall	-
start to the right of the exit of red n°38.
74	Chat Perché 6a+ (6b)	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder in between the one with red n°38-39 and the one with red n°40; start to the right of the tree, traverse to the right and exit after the dihedron
75	Pic et Pêche 6b (6b+)	-	-
between blue n°25 and the red triangle.
76	Exocet 6b+	traverse fltr / slopers	-
on the backside of the boulder with blue n°25.
		Outside the topo
Constellation des Amoureux assis 7a+ (7a)		overhang / wall / sitstart	-
sitstart at the beginning of the traverse of red n°34, take a flat hold right hand, make a foot hook on the left, take the slopers on the right and exit in red n°35. NB : short climbers can also take a painful crimp in the face on the left.
La Croisière Jaune retour 7b+ (7b)		traverse frtl / slopers	-
start on the ight of the boulder with a good vertical hold, traverse on slopers and exit by a mantle above the start of the classical version of La Croisière Jaune. NB : first known realization by Tony Fouchereau.
- 2+		-	-
- 4		-	-
without the left arete.
- 4		-	-
Lézard Rupestre 6a		traverse fltr	-
former red n°3, traversing to the right from the actual arrow.
Écharde 7a		traverse / slightly overhanging	Bernard Théret
there and back of Par la Jetée (red n°18 bis).
Modokasi 6b (6c)		wall / monos	-
former red n°5 bis, to th left of the actual red n°5 bis.
La Pipistrelle 6a (5+)		overhang	-
50m behind La Théorie des Nuages (red n°23).
Douche Froide 6c		wall	-
to the right of Fritz l'Angle (red n°41).

© 1994-2012 bleau.info