Bleau.info : Franchard Carriers : Topo

thanks to Manuel Marquès

Franchard Sablons Ouest is composed of several sectors : the difficult boulders of Voltane and http, the dynos of "Le Mur des Carriers" and the recent openings of Manuel Marquès and Jean-Jacques Naëls around the Pignon 110. To get to the first two sectors, follow the Route des Gorges de Franchard for 200m from Franchard Sablons and find the boulders in the slope. The access to the Pignon 110 is easier by following the GR11 on the crest.

1	Matagot (sortie à gauche) 6c+	overhang / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
sitstart in the overhang and exit to the left with a mantle.
2	Matagot (sortie à droite) 7a+	overhang / sitstart / expo	Manuel Marquès
sitstart in the overhang and exit to the right.
3	- 6c	crack / arete / slopers	Manuel Marquès
start with the crack and exit to the left of the round arete.
4	Pince-Mi et Pince-Moi 7b	crack / slopers	Manuel Marquès
start with the undercling and exit directly with slopers.
5	- 6b	crack	Manuel Marquès
to the right of Pince-Mi et Pince-Moi.
6	Swetch 4+ (5-)	mantle	Frédérique Menou
on the boulder to the right of Matagot.
7	Traquenard 7b	mantle / slopers	Manuel Marquès
mantle on slopers in a pit.
8	- 6a	arete / slopers	Manuel Marquès
climb the round arete and exit via a crack.
9	Gamme Relative 7c+ (8a)	wall / slab / crimps	Manuel Marquès
start in a wall/slab with crimps and exit directly via slopers.
10	- 6a+	arete	Manuel Marquès
right arete.
11	- 6a (6b)	dyno	Manuel Marquès
dyno on a chipped arete.
12	- 5+	traverse frtl	Manuel Marquès
traverse to the left on a chipped arete.
13	- 6a+	arete	Manuel Marquès
left arete.
14	L'Ensorceleur 7a+	wall / slopers	Manuel Marquès
to the right of the arete; start with a little rock and exit via slopers.
15	- 5	arete	Manuel Marquès
arete by the left.
16	- 6b	arete	Manuel Marquès
arete by the right.
17	- 6a	sitstart	Manuel Marquès
at the top of the hill
18	L'Arête 110 5+	arete	Manuel Marquès
ascending arete at the top of the hill.
19	Double Go 5+	wall / dyno	Pepito
to the left of Astéroïde.
20	Astéroïde 6c (6b)	wall / dyno	Pepito
dyno to the right of the arete. NB : easier since a hold broke off and became larger. First known realization by Jean-Jacques Naëls.
21	Le Styx coule Toujours 6b+	slightly overhanging / mantle / slopers	Manuel Marquès
mantle on slopers.
22	À l'Abordage! 7c	prow / expo	Manuel Marquès
start on the flat stone to the left of the arete.
24	Le Père Truqué 5+	slab / slopers	Manuel Marquès
left problem.
25	Au Service du Maître 6b	wall / crimps	Manuel Marquès
vertical problem on good crimps.
26	Le Dernier des Maîtres 6c+	traverse fltr / slopers	Manuel Marquès
start at the angle and traverse to the right on slopers.
27	Les Rampeurs 7a	traverse frtl / slopers	Manuel Marquès
traverse on slopers and exit to the left of the arete.
28	- 6b	mantle / slopers	Manuel Marquès
on a smooth boulder.
29	Petit Cœur 6a+	mantle / slopers	Manuel Marquès
mantle on slopers.
30	- 6a	arete	Manuel Marquès
at the North of the sector.
31	- 4	slab	Manuel Marquès
left slab.
32	Mélodie des Pieds 5	slab	Manuel Marquès
right problem.
33	Mal en Pire 5	arete / wall	Pepito
wall-arete left hand.
34	- 6a+	arete	Manuel Marquès
chipped arete.
35	- 5	mantle	Manuel Marquès
direct mantle.
36	- 6b+	sitstart	Manuel Marquès
ascending traverse.
37	Acier Doux 5+	slab / arete	Pepito
slab with the arete of Ici et Ailleurs right hand.
38	Ici et Ailleurs 6c+	arete	Manuel Marquès
direct mantle.
39	Une Proie Rêvée 6a+	traverse fltr / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
sitstart and exit to the right of the arete.
40	Rajustement 6c	sitstart	Manuel Marquès
right problem.
41	L'Autre Téton 4+	wall	Pepito
to the left of Le Téton.
42	Le Téton 4+	wall	Manuel Marquès
dyno from the good hold to the top.
43	Homoncule 7c	arete	Manuel Marquès
direct angle at the middle of the traverse of L'Apprenti Sorcier.
44	L'Apprenti Sorcier 7a+ (7a)	traverse frtl / wall	Manuel Marquès
start to the left of the arete of Homoncule, traverse with good holds and exit in the wall above a flat rock.
45	Hommage aux Tailleurs de Pierre 6a	pillar	Manuel Marquès
on an isolated boulder above the GR.
46	Plans Sociaux 5	wall	Pepito
to the left of L'Orgueil Naïf.
47	Orgueil Naïf 6a+	wall	Manuel Marquès
direct exit.
48	Licenciement 5-	wall	Pepito
to the right of L'Orgueil Naïf.
49	Bonne Étoile 6b	wall / dyno	Pepito
on the backside of the boulder of L'Orgueil Naïf.
50	Black Out 6c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
left problem.
51	Ghost Stories 7a	slightly overhanging / expo	Manuel Marquès
right problem, above a small boulder.
52	Le Bel Instant 4-	arete	Pepito
arete left hand.
53	Dallanquatre 4+	slab	Manuel Marquès
left problem.
54	Dallantrois 3	slab	Manuel Marquès
right problem.
55	Pilier Nord 3+	pillar	Pepito
small pillar.
56	Pilier Sud 3+	pillar	Pepito
small pillar.
57	Incident sans Importance 6c	arete / crimps	Manuel Marquès
crimpsy arete.
58	- 5	sitstart / mantle	Manuel Marquès
sitstart and exit via a mantle.
59	- 5	wall	Manuel Marquès
left problem.
60	- 6b	crack	Manuel Marquès
right problem.
61	- 6b+	wall	Manuel Marquès
above a pit.
62	Petit Lot 5-	wall	Pepito
et the start of Au-delà de cette Limite, votre Ticket n'est plus Valable, to the left of the one of La Corde Raide.
63	Dévers gauche 6a (6b)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart at the point where La Corde Raide goes up, but exit directly.
64	Dévers du milieu 6a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Pepito
to the left of the exit of Au-delà de cette Limite, votre Ticket n'est plus Valable.
65	Au-delà de cette Limite, votre Ticket n'est plus Valable 6c	traverse fltr	Thierry Guéguen
traverse to the right and exit in the wall, before L'angle Droit.
66	L'Angle Droit 6a (5+)	slightly overhanging / arete / mantle	Pepito
ground start to the right of the exit of Au-delà de cette Limite, votre Ticket n'est plus Valable.
67	La Corde Raide 6c	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart between the two boulders, traverse to the right, go up as for Dévers gauche, continue to traverse to the right with top holds and exit on the right angle of L'Angle Droit.
68	- 4+	slab	Manuel Marquès
slab with a little hole.
69	Le Brachistochrone 6a+	slab	Manuel Marquès
smooth slab.
71	- 6c+	arete	Manuel Marquès
chipped arete.
72	Soulagement 7a (7a+)	wall / mantle / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart, climb the wall with crimps and exit to the left with a mantle.
73	Refoulement 6c	wall / mantle / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
sitstart, climb the wall with crimps and exit to the right with a mantle.
		Outside the topo
Voltane raccourci 7b		slightly overhanging	-
only the exit of Voltane (8a with traverse).
Voltane 8a		traverse frtl / slightly overhanging	Benoît Faure
from Franchard Sablons, walk 200m to the right of the circuits; the boulder is above le Chemin des Épines. Start on the backside of the boulder, traverse to the left and exit in a slightly overhanging 7a+.
Profil de Carrière 7b+		pillar / expo	Olivier Carrière
50m above Voltane, on the boulder to the left of http.bloc.
Amants Criminels 6c (7a)		dyno	Alexis Allayaud
right problem on the Mur des Carriers.
Les Pantins Sociaux 7a		arete / sitstart	Alexis Allayaud
sitstart on the backside of Le Mur des Carriers. NB : fragile holds on the start.
Sylphide 7a		arete / dyno	Alexis Allayaud
left problem on the Mur des Carriers.
Mortel Transfert 7b		dyno	Alexis Allayaud
on the Mur des Carriers, second dyno to the right of Sylphide.
Voltex 7b+		dyno	Alexis Allayaud
far dyno on Le Mur des Carriers (middle one of 5 dynos).
Rainbow Rocket 8a		dyno	Alexis Allayaud
far dyno on Mur des Carriers (fourth one from the left).
Joyeux Grill 7b (7b+)		overhang	Thierry Guéguen
to the right of http.bloc. Start with the two hands in the center of the roof, with feet at the bottom.
http.bloc 7c (7c+)		underclings / dyno / slopers	Olivier Lebreton
50m above Voltane; standing start on the side of the roof.
Joyeux Grill accroupi 8a		roof	Julien Nadiras / Antoine Vandeputte
crouching start of Joyeux Grill; start near http.bloc and exit directly via the roof.
http.bloc assis 8a (8a+)		sitstart / slopers / underclings	Christian Roumégoux
sitstart of http.bloc.
L'Arête de l'Abri-Bivouac 7b		arete	Alexis Allayaud
near the bivouac, to the opposite of Le Toit de l'Abri-Bivouac, above http.bloc.
Le Toit de l'Abri-Bivouac 7a		overhang / expo	Alexis Allayaud
near the bivouac, to the opposite of Le L'Arête de l'Abri-Bivouac, above http.bloc.
Watt 6b		wall	Pepito
from Franchard Sablons, walk 200m to the right of the circuits; the boulder is above le Chemin des Épines. Left problem just before the exit of Voltane.
Watt assis 7a (7a+)		wall / sitstart	Christian Merimeche
from Franchard Sablons, walk 200m to the right of the circuits; the boulder is above le Chemin des Épines. Sitstart and exit in Watt (left problem just before the exit of Voltane).
Ampère 6c+		wall / crack	Pepito
just right of the exit of Voltane. Start at the crack with a good hold for the left hand and a small edge for the right and exit straight up.
Ampère assis 7a+ (7a)		wall / sitstart	Christian Merimeche
just right of the exit of Voltane, above le Chemin des Épines. Sitstart slightly right, take a small edge for the right hand and exit straight up as for Ampère.
Théorème de Thalès 5-		slab	-
left problem on the second boulder of Le Mur des Carriers.
Théorème des Milieux 5+		slab	-
central problem on the second boulder of Le Mur des Carriers.
Théorème de Pythagore 5+		slab	-
right problem on the second boulder of Le Mur des Carriers.
Le Cocasse 5- (5)		slightly overhanging	Pepito
on the backside of the second boulder of Le Mur des Carriers.
Crayon 5		arete	Pascal Etienne
double arete on the boulder just left of Voltane.
Mine 4		crack	Pascal Etienne
double crack on the boulder just left of Voltane.
Bataille 5		dihedral / crack	Pascal Etienne
on the North face of the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
Histoire de Taille 4+		crack	Pascal Etienne
on the North face of the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
Défection 5-		arete	Pascal Etienne
angle by the left on the West face of the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
Détail de l'Histoire 6c (6c+)		arete / high	Pascal Etienne
high arete on the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
Taille-Toi 4		slab / crack / expo	Pascal Etienne
on the West face of the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
Ligne Brisée 3+		crack	Pascal Etienne
fragile crack on the West face of the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
- 4-		arete	Pascal Etienne
angle by the left on the South face of the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
- 3		wall	Pascal Etienne
short wall on the South face of the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
La Vire 3-		wall / mantle	Pascal Etienne
diagonal on the South face of the boulder to the opposite of Voltane.
Les Châteaux de Grès 5+ (6a)		wall	Viktor Magnusson / Catherine Carré
on a triangular face 30m to the left of Le Mur des Carriers. 5c near the left arete (without that one) and 6a directly in the face.
Forte Tête 6b		dyno	-
right problem (with a green arrow) on the boulder to the right of http.bloc.
Mercedes 6b		dyno	Pepito
left problem on the boulder to the right of http.bloc.
Etcetera 6b		arete	-
arete left hand (marked with a green arrow) on the boulder to the South of Profil de Carrière.
- 5-		mantle	-
left problem on the boulder to the North of http.bloc.
Coupe de Bois 4+		wall / mantle	Pepito
on the North face of the boulder to the West of http.bloc.
Place Assise 6a+		wall / sitstart	Pepito
sitstart on the West face of the boulder to the West of http.bloc. Standing start is 5b.
Hausse d'Impôts 4		wall	Pepito
right problem on the South face of the boulder to the North-West of Chemin de Pierre.
L'Élysée Moi 5		wall	Pepito
left problem on the North face of the boulder of Chemin de Pierre.
Trompe Œil 6a+		slab	Pepito
steep slab on the North face of the boulder of Chemin de Pierre.
Mensonges d'États 4-		arete	Pepito
North-West angle right hand on the boulder of Chemin de Pierre. 5b with the slab only.
La Pétanque 5		arete	Pepito
North-West angle left hand on the boulder of Chemin de Pierre.
Sonate d'Automne 6a+		crack	Pepito
crack on the West face of the boulder of Chemin de Pierre.
Chemin de Pierre 6c		arete	Yann Bruneau
angle on the South face of a boulder 60m above and to the right of Voltane.
Coûts Fumants 6a		slab	Pepito
central problem on the South face of the boulder to the North-West of Chemin de Pierre. EXit to the right at the highest point is 6b.
Déprime Économique 4		slab	Pepito
left problem on the South face of the boulder to the North-West of Chemin de Pierre.
Shopping 4+		arete	-
arete left hand on the second boulder to the South of Chemin de Pierre.
- 6a		slightly overhanging / expo	-
green arrow on the East face of the boulder to the South of Chemin de Pierre.
Cadeau sur Prise 6a		slightly overhanging / arete	Pepito
slightly overhanging round angle on the boulder to the South of Chemin de Pierre.
Fluocompacte 7b+ (7c)		arete / slopers / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
right problem on a big boulder 40-45m from Voltane. Sitstart on the right, traverse on slopers, pass the angle, continue on the ascending arete with other slopers and exit at the top of the boulder as for À Led.
À Led 6c		arete / slightly overhanging / high	François-Xavier Joubert / Gérald Coste
overhanging arete on a big boulder 40-45m from Voltane.
À Led assis 7b (7a+)		arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Rémi Perinet / François-Xavier Joubert
sitstart of the overhanging arete on a big boulder 40-45m from Voltane.
Fin de Carrière 7b+ (7c+)		arete / slopers / high	François-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
50m above Voltane, on the boulder to the left of http.bloc. Standing start to the left of Profil de Carrière in a face with a characteristic jug, climb the arete right hand and exit directly with slopers.
Cœur de Pierre 7a		pillar / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
on a big characteristic boulder 50m to the East of Profil de Carrière. Sitstart to the right of Petits Cœurs and climb the slightly overhanging pillar.
Sans Cœur 6c+		wall / crack	Manuel Marquès
on a big characteristic boulder 50m to the East of Profil de Carrière. Start in the right face as for Petits Cœurs but exit in the wall to the right of the pillar via oblique cracks.
Hauts les Cœurs 7a+ (7b)		pillar / high / expo	Manuel Marquès
on a big characteristic boulder 50m to the East of Profil de Carrière. Low start at the pillar with left hand in a small pocket and right hand on a vertcal sloper, take a small ledge and then the cracks on the right, traverse slightly to the left and exit at the highest point of the pillar.
Petits Cœurs 7a		wall / pillar / expo	Manuel Marquès
on a big characteristic boulder 50m to the East of Profil de Carrière. Start in the wall to the right of the pillar at the beginning of the ascending cracks and exit by the pillar of Hauts les Cœurs.
Rentrée Aérienne 7b		traverse fltr / expo / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
bleauquery@localhost
Règlement Extérieur 7a		pillar / slightly overhanging / arete	Manuel Marquès
on the boulder behind Hauts les Cœurs, 50m to the East of Profil de Carrière. Standing start and exit via the arete.
Pas de Rentrée 6c+ (7a)		wall / crimps	Manuel Marquès
on the West face of the boulder behind Hauts les Cœurs, 50m to the East of Profil de Carrière. Standing start in a pit and climb the crimpsy wall.
Sans Idée 7b (7b+)		pillar / expo	Manuel Marquès
to the right of Histoire de Fesses, on a boulder 100m to the South-East of Profil de Carrière up the slope. Standing start in a small pit and exit by the pillar.
Histoire de Fesses 7a		crack / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
to the left of Sans Idée, on a boulder 100m to the South-East of Profil de Carrière up the slope. Lying start on a small boulder with boths hands on a small horizontal crimp and exit by the crack.

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