Bleau.info : Roche aux Sabots : Topo

thanks to Jo Montchaussé & Alain Catté & Fabien Lecuyer

1	Partie de Jambes en l'Air 7b	traverse frtl / slopers	-
30m beyond the start of the red circuit, on a small boulder near the path to the parking lot. Start at the red dot with a big undercling right hand, traverse on slopers and exit at the big crack with an orange arrow.
2	Tiréta 5	mantle	-
to the opposite of Sale Mioche, on the backside of the boulder of Partie de Jambes en l'Air, 30m before the start of the red circuit when coming from the parking lot.
3	- 6a	wall / mantle	-
mantle on the backside of the boulder of Partie de Jambes en l'Air, to the opposite of the traverse of À Bras Raccourcis.
4	À Bras Raccourcis 7a+	traverse frtl / crack	-
on the boulder of Sale Mioche, 30m before Sale Gosse, to the left of the path. Start completely right, follow the horizontal crack and exit at the left angle, after Sale Mioche. NB : the traverse has been opened without using the vertical crack at the center of the boulder.
5	Sale Mioche 7a	wall / sitstart	Benjamin Grava / Bruno Lazzerini
30m before Sale Gosse, on the left when coming from the parking lot. Sitstart and take a bidoigt via a heek hool; morpho. Standing start static is 6c+.
6	Kemma 6a	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Kevin Kilroy
on a small boulder to the opposite of the exit of the traverse of À Bras Raccourcis, at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart with left hand in an obvious pocket around the left arete and a crimp right hand, traverse to the right with slopers and edges and exit by a mantle at the right angle.
7	- 5-	wall	-
on the boulder of yellow n°12.
8	La Colonnette 5+	wall / mantle	-
to the left of the exit of Beauf en Daube (red n°8).
9	45.5 5-	wall	-
direct problem in between blue n°46 and blue n°45.
10	Jus d'Orange 7a (7a+)	wall / monos	Emmanuel Ratouis
between 100% Pulpe and Le Mur Badaboum (red n°7).
11	100 % Pulpe 7b (7b+)	wall / crimps	Philippe Le Denmat
between red n°6 and Jus d'Orange, without the left arete.
12	Achille Talon 7a	wall / crimps	Jo Montchaussé
red 6 bis | to the left of red n°6, without the arete.
13	Smash 7b	dyno	-
to the left of Achille Talon, from low ramp directly to the top with a big launch.
13b	Smash Ademains 7b	dyno	-
double-dyno of Smash.
13c	Dribble et Smash 7c (7c+)	traverse frtl / dyno	Alexis Allayaud
start 2m to the right of red n°6 and exit in Smash.
14	Vieille Canaille 7b+	traverse fltr / roof / mantle	Thierry Guéguen
traverse to the right and exit on slopers in the roof on the low boulder to the right of Graviton.
15	Graviton 7a	wall / expo	Jo Montchaussé
red 5 bis | start in the pit to the right of Élucubration / Le Quark, and exit directly.
15b	Gravillon (Graviton gauche) 6b+	slightly overhanging / traverse frtl / mantle	-
start in Graviton and exit 1m50 to the left. NB : the name "Gravillon" is improperly used in certain topos to denote the 7a arete Elucubration / Le Quark on the left.
16	Élucubration / Le Quark 7a	arete	Gilles Cottray / François Louvel
to the right of red n°5, left of Graviton; low start is 7c (A. Denis). NB : this problem is called "Gravillon" in some topos, but this is a confusion with the left exit of Graviton.
16b	La Balade du Graviton 7b	arete / traverse fltr	Jo Montchaussé
start in Élucubration / Le Quark, exit in Graviton.
17	Sale Gosse 7c	overhang / monos	Marc Le Ménestrel
to the left of red n°5; start with a mono.
17b	Sale Gosse assis 8a (7c+)	sitstart / overhang	Ben Moon
sitstart of Sale Gosse (squatted start is 7c+).
18	P'tit Gosse 6b	wall	Thierry Guéguen
to the left of Sale Gosse, on the boulder of red n°5.
19	Cirage 5-	slab	-
slab on the right of red n°4.
20	- 4-	slab	-
dalle à gauche du n°4 rouge.
21	L'Âne et le Bouc 7a	traverse fltr	Pascal Etienne
40m east of the red n°1, on the pathside; start to the left of the arete with a pocket and exit at the end of the right face.
22	- 6a	prow / mantle	-
mantle on a bowl to the left of the tree on the starting boulder of the red circuit.
23	Le Ventru 6a	belly	-
belly to the left of n°3 rouge (and to the right of the tree).
24	Bouclette vers la Droite 7a+	roof	-
variant on the boulder of
25	Dos Crawlé 6c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart of red n°2.
25b	Arobase 7b (7b+)	overhang / loop / sitstart	Max
sitstart in red n°1, traverse to the left in the middle of the face, downclimb under red n°3 and exit in red n°2.
25c	Clé de Sol 8a	overhang / loop / sitstart	Greg Sobczak
sitstart in red n°1, traverse to the left in the middle of the face, downclimb under red n°3 as for Arobase, but exit directly on slopers near red n°2 without using the left ledge.
26	La Traversée de Saute-Montagne 7a+ (7b)	overhang / traverse fltr / sitstart	-
sitstart in red n°3, traverse in the middle of the face, downclimb to the start of red n°1 and exit in that one.
27	Traction Avant 6c+	overhang / slopers	Marc Le Ménestrel
start in L'Auriculaire (red n°34), take the slopers to the right of the crack with the two hands and exit just above by a mantle.
28	Le Tourniquet 7a+	traverse frtl	-
red 3 bis | around the final boulder of the red circuit; start to the right of red n°34.
29	Le Pilier du Tourniquet 5-	prow	-
on the backside of the boulder of the start of the red circuit.
30	- 5+	wall	-
to the right of Le Pilier du Tourniquet, on the backside of the start of the red circuit.
31	Le Toit des Frelons / La Traversée du T.G.V. 7a (6c+)	traverse frtl / overhang / slopers	Jo Montchaussé
red 34 bis | start at the angle to the right of blue n°36 and exit via the overhanging arete to the left. NB : the video only shows the end.
31b	L'Aller-retour du Toit des Frelons 7b	traverse / overhang / slopers	-
there and back of Toit des Frelons / La Traversée du TGV. Start to the right of the prow, traverse the face, come back and exit by the classical Toit des Frelons.
32	Rumsteak en Folie 7a	traverse fltr	-
red 32 bis | low traverse around the boulder, start in red n°31. NB : the reverse sense is also possible (same grade) and a 7b there and back has been realized.
34	Le Cinquième Côté 7c+	traverse fltr / crimps	Christian Roumégoux
start from the horizontal ledge to the left of red n°29, low traverse and exit in Le Parallélogramme de Gérardin / Zarma.
34b	Sans Filet 6a	mantle / dyno / expo	Pascal Etienne
to the left of Mur Michaud (red n°29). Make a mantle on a small ledge and dyno to the top.
35	Le Parallélogramme de Gérardin / Zarma 7b+ (7b)	wall	Olivier Penel
to the right of red n°29.
36	Jet Set 7a (7a+)	dyno	Gilles Cottray
left of the crack between red n°27 and red n°28.
37	M'sieur Gôdof / Jack's Finger 7b	wall	-
to the right of red n°27, without the large pocket to the left.
38	Le Faux Bidoigt / Les Yeux 7a+ (7a)	bidoigt / wall	Jacky Godoffe
to the left of red n°30.
38b	Le Faux Bidoigt / Les Yeux assis 7b	sitstart / bidoigt / wall	Stéphane Brette
sitstart of Le Faux Bidoigt.
38c	La Traversée du Faux Bidoigt 7c	traverse frtl	-
start in Le Faux Bidoigt, exit in red n°28.
39	L'Inaperçue / La Tondeuse à Grattons 6c	slab / wall / crimps	Pascal Etienne
to the left of L'Angle à Jean-Luc (red n°25).
40	Super-Croix 7a	slab / crimps	Pepito
in between L'angle à Jean-Luc and À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu.
41	À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu 7a+	slab / crimps	Jean-Claude Droyer
red 24 bis | to the left of red n°24. Normal exit via the right is 7a+, direct to the highest point is 7b.
41b	L'Épluche-Patates 7b	slab	-
direct exit of À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu.
42	La Traversée Belliqueuse 7a (6c+)	traverse frtl / overhang / crimps	-
sitstart from the step to the right of Le Tiroir (red n°22), traverse in the overhang, pass the angle with low holds, continue in the left face and exit in red n°24.
42b	La Traversée de l'Impossible 7c	traverse frtl / overhang / arete	-
sitstart from the step to the right of Le Tiroir (red n°22), traverse in the overhang, pass the angle with low holds, continue in the face of red n°24 and exit in À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu.
42c	La Traversée de l'Angle à Jean-Luc 7c	traverse frtl / overhang / slab	-
sitstart from the step to the right of Le Tiroir (red n°22), traverse in the overhang, pass the angle with low holds, continue in the face of À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu and exit in L'Angle à Jean-Luc (red n°25).
43	Ongle Jo 7b	crimps	Jo Montchaussé
to the right of red n°24, on the boulder of À l'Impossible, Nul n'est Tenu.
44	L'Angle Ghersen 6b+ (6c)	arete / sitstart	-
sitdown start in Le Tiroir / Rien de Bon (red nº22), exit in the arete to the left
45	L'Oblique 7a	roof / bidoigt / dyno	Gilles Cottray
sitstart to the right of Le Tiroir (red n°22) and dyno to the round arete on the right.
45b	Jeté Toit Plus 6c+ (7a)	dyno	-
dyno to the right of Le Tiroir (red n°22), without using the holds to the top of the wall.
45c	Sphincters Toniques 7a+	roof / dyno	Jo Montchaussé / Marc Montchaussé
lying start in the roof underneath Le Tiroir (red n°22) and exit in L'Oblique.
45d	La Boucle de l'Oblique 7b	arete / overhang / dyno	-
sitstart at the step, climb L'Angle Ghersen, downclimb red n°22 up to the step and exit in L'Oblique.
45e	Pets O2 Max 7c	overhang / traverse	-
combination on the boulder of Le Tiroir (red n°22). Lying start as for Sphincters Toniques, climb Le Tiroir, downclimb it, go up in L'Angle Ghersen, traverse to the right with top holds, downclimb the right arete up to the step and exit in L'Oblique.
46	Le Dénicheur 5-	wall / slopers	-
direct problem at the exit of L'Oblique, on the boulder of Le Tiroir (red n°22).
47	- 6b	overhang / sitstart	-
sitstart of the small overhang on the backside of the boulder of Bazooka Jo and red n°24.
48	Le Coupe Fin 6b	wall / crimps	Pascal Etienne
to the left of Mine de Rien (red n°21), in the corridor.
49	Legalize This 6c+ (7a+)	dyno / underclings	Kees Mak
from the undercling of red n°20 directly to the top (eliminate).
50	Bazooka-Jo 6c	crack	-
red 20 bis |
51	Amanite Dalloïde 6c+ (7a)	slab	Jo Montchaussé
red 20 ter | to the right of red n°20, without the big crimps on the right.
52	Lard et la Manière 7a (7a+)	traverse frtl	Jo Montchaussé
on the boulder to the opposite of red n°20. Start in crack at the right, exit in the arete of Fairer Times.
53	Fairer Times 7b+ (7c)	arete / sitstart / dyno	Paul Houghoughi
on the angle next to red n°19, facing Amanite Dalloïde, to the right of blue n°26, where the corridor makes a right corner.
54	Coup de Sabre 4+	crack	-
blue 26 bis |
55	Noël Joyeux 5-	wall	-
wall to the left of red n°19.
56	Autochtone 7a	arete	Jo Montchaussé
to the left of red n°18. Jumpstart is 6c and static start 7a.
57	Beau Travail 7b (7b+)	arete	-
to the right of red n°18. Jump start (7a+ morpho) or static start (7b+).
58	L'Inversée Satanique 6b (6b+)	wall / underclings / crimps	-
red 18 ter | non conventional version of the red/white arrow to the right of blue n°24.
58b	L'Inversée Satanique directe 7a (6c)	wall / underclings	Laurent Darlot
eliminate of L'Inversée Satanique (red/white arrow to the right of blue n°24) using only the undercling.
59	Big Box 6c	sitstart	Bruno Lazzerini
sitstart (without crash-pad) on a small angle to the opposite of red n°18, on the boulder of Chapeau Chinois.
60	Chapeau Chinois 6b	traverse frtl / prow / overhang	-
red 18 bis | on the backside of the boulder facing red n°18. Start in blue n°22, traverse to the left and exit by the overhanging prow.
60b	Chapeau Chinois (version haute) 7a	traverse frtl / prow / overhang	-
conventional version of Chapeau Chinois, on the backside of the boulder facing red n°18. Start in blue n°22 as in the cassical version, traverse to the left with the top holds only and exit directly in the prow without the holds of the left face.
61	22.5 4+	wall / pockets	-
direct problem in between blue n°23 and blue n°22.
62	Skylla 7a	mantle / slopers	Theodoros Konstantakopoulos
on a small boulder in between the 25 Bosses path and Le Chapeau Chinois, just left of the round arete of
63	Charybdis 6c	mantle / arete / slopers	Theodoros Konstantakopoulos
right problem on a small boulder in between the 25 Bosses path and Le Chapeau Chinois. Sitstart left hand on a crimp and exit via the round arete.
64	L'Arête de Rien Faire 6a	arete	Bruno Lazzerini
arete right hand to the right of blue n°17.
65	Traction Lunaire 6c+	sitstart	Bruno Lazzerini
sitstart (without crash-pad) at the angle to the right of blue n°21.
66	- 4-	slab	-
to the right of blue n°21.
67	À la Bonne Frankette 7a+ (7b)	traverse fltr / slopers	-
on the boulder to the left of Jeu du Toit. Start at the left angle, traverse with top holds and exit either after the right arete (7a+), or in blue n°21 (7b).
68	Ah Quel Talon 6b	traverse fltr / slopers	Ludo Guérin / Jo Montchaussé
on th eleft face of the boulder of yellow n°17, between red n°9 and red n°10.
69	- 6c	crack / arete / sitstart	-
sitstart of the crack on the left face of the boulder of yellow n°17, between red n°9 and red n°10.
70	L'Anglomaniaque 6c+	sitstart / traverse frtl / overhang	Jo Montchaussé
sitstart to the right of blue n°20, traverse under the overhang and exit to the left with a mantle. NB : initially called "L'Anglomanique" and also known under the name "Jeu du Toit gauche".
70b	La Raie du Q 6b+	overhang / crack / mantle	-
on the left face of the boulder with of blue n°20. Sitstart in the overhang and exit to the left of the angle as for L'Anglomaniaque.
70c	L'Anglomaniaque en aller-retour 7a+ (7a)	traverse / overhang / mantle	-
start the two hands with the holds of the exit of L'Anglomaniaque, downclimb the overhang, traverse to the start, and come back by doing the classical problem.
71	Le Jeu du Toit 7a	overhang / sitstart	-
on the boulder with blue n°20. Sitstart to the right, exit up right.
71b	Jouet de Toi 7b	sitstart / traverse fltr / overhang	Alain Denis / Julien Delobelle
eliminating on the boulder of blue n°20. Sistart to the left underneath the mantle of L'Anglomaniaque, take the vertical crimp left hand, dyno to the crack to the right of the arete, take a pinch left hand, make a hook left foot, and exit in Le Jeu du Toit. NB : the right holds for the feet are forbidden, as well as the left crack for the hook.
72	Le Flippeur 7a	prow / overhang	Jo Montchaussé
red 17 ter | angle to the right of red n°17.
72b	Le Niveau Baisse 7b+	overhang / arete / sitstart	Marc Le Ménestrel
sitstart and exit in Le Flippeur (overhanging angle to the right of blue n°12).
73	Le Bond de l'Hippopotame 7a	dyno	Christophe Cambier
red 17 bis | start in blue n°12 and exit to the left.
74	Déviation 8a	wall	Marc Le Ménestrel
to the opposite of Lucifer (start with stone is 7c+).
75	La Voie des Fous 4-	wall / expo	-
to the left of the angle of red n°17.
76	La Traversée du Trou d'Air 5-	traverse frtl / pockets	-
start completely right in the face of blue n°15, traverse to the left and exit in Trou d'Air (blue n°13).
77	- 4-	wall	-
on the small boulder to the right of red n°16, on the backside of La Boucle d'Oreille.
78	La Boucle d'Oreille 3+	wall / underclings / pockets	-
low start with an undercling on the right boulder in the corridor between blue n°11 and blue n°12.
79	La Narine 5+ (6a)	prow / sitstart	-
small prow just left of the slab of Lucifer, on the boulder to the right of blue n°11, to the left of the one with La Boucle d'Oreille. Sitstart with a pocket left hand and a good hold right hand, climb the right arete and exit on the other face (5c) or by a mantle at the top (6a).
79	La Narine droite 6b	arete / sitstart	-
small prow just left of the slab of Lucifer, on the boulder to the right of blue n°11, to the left of the one with La Boucle d'Oreille. Sitstart to the right with a pocket and climb directly the left arete.
80	Lucifer 7b (7a+)	slab / crimps	Jo Montchaussé
red 15 bis | direct slab to the right of blue n°11, without the good foot hold on the right. 7a with the sloper high left, 7b otherwise. NB : the start has become easier since sand has been added.
81	Silence on Tourne 6b	traverse fltr	-
to the opposite of red n°15.
82	La Fausse Rouge 4+	wall	-
direct wall at the start of red n°15.
83	Fer Forgé / Le Bas-Bas Cool 7b (7b+)	traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
low left to right traverse on the boulder of red n°15.
84	Prima 7a	traverse fltr / arete	Jo Montchaussé
start completely left in the corridor, traverse to the right and exit in red n°14. NB : the beginning of the traverse needs to be rebrushed (October 2009).
85	- 6c	slightly overhanging / expo	-
right arrow in the corridor to the left of L'Angle de la Pierre Ôtée (red n°14).
86	Le Bidoigt 6b	wall / bidoigt	-
to the right of L'Angle de la Pierre Ôtée (red n°14).
86b	La Traversée du Bidoigt 6c+	traverse frtl / wall / bidoigt	-
start in blue n°7, traverse to the left and exit in Le Bidoigt, just before L'Angle de la Pierre Ôtée (red n°14).
87	La Lime à Ongles 7a	wall	Jo Montchaussé
red 14 bis | between blue n°6 and blue n°7, without the holds on the right of the arete.
88	Mauvais Coin 6c	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	-
on the small boulder to the opposite of the satrt of red n°15. Sitstart, climb the ledge on slopers and exit after the angle.
89	Le Petit Nez 6c	traverse frtl / slopers / mantle	-
on the backside of a small boulder to the opposite of blue n°7. Sitstart at a tree, traverse on slopers, pass the angle without the pocket by conventionand exit at the yellow arrow.
89b	Le Petit Nez en aller-retour 7a	traverse / slopers / sitstart	-
on the backside of a small boulder to the opposite of blue n°7. Sitstart at a tree, traverse on slopers, pass the angle without the pocket by convention, come back at the yellow arrow and exit via a mantle just before the tree.
90	C'est Assis mais C'est Tassé / Cavernicole 7a+ (7b)	roof / arete	Jo Montchaussé
sitstart of red n°13. Start completely right, with the left foot on the red dot and a vertical hold right hand, catch the arete and exit in red n°13.
91	La Classique 6a	traverse fltr	-
start at the crack in the face to the left of red n°13, traverse to the right and exit in that one.
92	Poil de la Bête 7c	traverse frtl	-
start at the crack in the face to the left of red n°13, traverse to the left, pass the angle and exit in blue n°5.
93	- 5+	overhang / sitstart	Bruno Lazzerini
sitstart of the small overhang to the right of blue n°3.
94	Mèche Rebelle 5-	traverse fltr	-
start to the left of blue n°2, traverse to the right and exit in blue n°2.
95	Faux Départ 3+	wall	-
direct problem to the right of blue n°1.
96	Violet 7b	traverse frtl / crimps	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
underneath blue n°29, in direction of Le Chemin de la Plaine des Vignes. Traverse to the left with crimps, pass the angle with a pocket and exit in the second face.
96b	Je Trouvais Sabots 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Jean-Hervé Baudot / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of Violet, underneath blue n°29, in direction of Le Chemin de la Plaine des Vignes. Sitstart to the left with a flat hold, traverse on slopers, downclimb at a column, continue with bidoigts, pass the angle and exit inn the crimpsy wall.
96c	Je trouvais Sabots (sortie gauche) 6c (6c+)	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Jean-Hervé Baudot / Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of Violet, underneath blue n°29, in direction of Le Chemin de la Plaine des Vignes. Sitstart to the left with a flat hold, traverse on slopers, downclimb at a column, continue with bidoigts and exit before the angle.
97	Sens Dessous Dessus 6b+	traverse frtl / pockets / mantle	-
on the small boulder to the North-West of L'Angle à Gilles (red n°12). Start on the right, low traverse on jugs and exit by a mantle (or by the dyno of One Move). 6a with top holds.
97b	One Move 6b	dyno / sitstart	Bruno Lazzerini
direct dyno on the small boulder to the North-West of sL'Angle à Gilles (red n°12).
98	Danger Majeur assis 7a	sitstart / wall / monos	-
sitstart of Danger Majeur (red n°10).
99	Les Petits Plats 5+	traverse frtl / slopers / sitstart	Ludo Guérin / Jo Montchaussé
traverse on slopers on a small boulder with a tree on it, between Little Crack (red n°9) and Danger Majeur (red n°10).
100	- 6c	wall / dyno / sitstart	-
start 2m to to the left of Little Crack (red n°9), dyno to a good hold and exit just above.
102	La Proue 6b	prow / overhang	Cyril Le Ménestrel / Jo Montchaussé
overhanging prow on an isolated boulder in between Little Crack (red n°9) and Le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes.
102b	La Proue assis 6c	prow / overhang / sitstart	Cyril Le Ménestrel / Jo Montchaussé
sitstart of the overhanging prow on an isolated boulder in between Little Crack (red n°9) and Le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes.
103	Miss World 7c	traverse fltr / crimps	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
traverse on three faces behind white children n°7, between the main sector, and Le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes.

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