Bleau.info : Mont Simonet : Topo

This small sector, located to the North of the classical sector of L'Éléphant, is composed of generally non exposed boulders around the hill of Mont Simonet. The simplest access consists in parking the car 200m after the parking lot of L'Éléphant, to follow La Route du Bois d'Hyver, and to turn right at La Route de la Chapelle à Larchant. The big boulder of La Citadelle can be found on the right and 200m further the one of Bidule. From that one, follow the blue path up the slope to the right to arrive to the main sector.

1	Arc-Boutant 3	pillar	yann kispredilov
left problem on the West face of the big boulder of La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver.
2	Citadelle 6a (6b)	wall / pockets / high	-
on the West face of a big boulder located just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Easiest version of Citadelle direct, starting with the jug to the right of the crack.
2	Citadelle direct 6b+ (6c)	wall / bidoigt / slopers	yann kispredilov
central problem on the West face of a big boulder located just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Start with crimps (without the jug on the left), take a monodoigt left hand and exit with big holds as for Citadelle. 6a/b by starting more left with the big jug.
3	Tir à l'Arc 6c	wall	yann kispredilov
left problem on the West face of the big boulder of La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Start with crimps, take a vertical hold just left of the tree and exit above on jugs.
3b	Tir à l'Arbalète 7a	traverse fltr / wall / crimps	yann kispredilov
on the West face of the big boulder of La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Start left in the pillar of Arc-Boutant, traverse on crimps, take a vertical hold just left of the tree and exit in Tir à l'Arc.
4	Contrefort 4	slab / crack	yann kispredilov / Camille Margelin
on the South face of the big boulder of La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Start by a pillar/slab to the right of the tree and exit via the slab.
5	La Douve de gauche 5+	slab	yann kispredilov
left slab on the East face of the big boulder of La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver.
6	La Douve du milieu 5+ (5)	slab	yann kispredilov
central slab on the East face of the big boulder of La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver.
7	La Douve de droite 5+ (6a)	slab	yann kispredilov
right slab on the East face of the big boulder of La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver.
8	Les Oubliettes 5	pillar / arete	yann kispredilov
on the North face of the big boulder of La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Start with a crack to the right of the tree and exit by the pillar.
9	- 6b	arete	-
left arete on the boulder after La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Lichened (July 2012).
10	- 6a	wall	-
central problem on the boulder after La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Lichened (July 2012).
11	- 5+	wall	-
right problem on the boulder after La Citadelle, just right of Le Chemin de La Chapelle-la-Reine à Larchant, 100m after the crossing with La Route des Bois d'Hyver. Lichened (July 2012).
16	Le Requin Blanc 7a	arete / high	Thierry Vasseur / Eric Jarkoff
on the big boulder at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path. Climb the right arete on the small prow-like face just above the path.
16	Le Requin Blanc assis 7b	arete / dyno / sitstart	C. Pas 7a
on the big boulder at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path, along the small prow-like face just above the path. Sitstart as for La Roussette assis, traverse with the horizontal crack and exit via the right arete.NB : a sitstart is also possible from the right arete with a crimp left hand and a pocket right hand (7b+/7b).
16	Le Requin Blanc direct assis 7b+	arete / dyno / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on the big boulder at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path, along the small prow-like face just above the path. Sitstart on the right with a bidoigt left hand and the arete right hand, climb the arete, make a big dyno and exit as for Le Requin Blanc.
17	La Roussette 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / dyno	Thierry Vasseur / Eric Jarkoff
on the big boulder at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path. Climb the left arete on the small prow-like face just above the path; morpho.
18	Eludib 4	wall / pockets	-
direct problem on the backside of the boulder of Bidule, at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path.
18b	Sortie Mickey 5-	wall	-
on the backside of the boulder of Bidule, at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path. Start as for Eludib, but exit at the top of the boulder by an ascending traverse to the right.
19	Bidule 6b+ (6c)	wall	Thierry Vasseur / Eric Jarkoff
at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path, in the corridor to the right of Le Requin Blanc. Start at the ledge and exit to the right on slopers via the arete.
19b	Bidule gauche 6c+	wall	Thierry Vasseur / Eric Jarkoff
at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path, in the corridor to the right of Le Requin Blanc. Start at the ledge as for Bidule but exit left by the crack.
20	Trucmuche 7a	wall / crimps	-
at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path, in the corridor to the right of Le Requin Blanc. Start to the left of Bidule with vertical holds, take a crimp left hand in the face and then the small pinches to the right and exit by the crack as for Bidule gauche.
21	Le Réta Plat 4+	mantle / slopers	-
on the small boulder after the one with Bidule, along the blue path, just after the crossing with Le Chemin de la Chapelle.
22	La Dalle gauche du Comprimé 4+ (5-)	slab	Pascal Etienne
left slab on the West face of the triangular boulder of Prise de Comprimé, to the opposite of Bidule, at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path.
23	La Dalle droite du Comprimé 5	slab	Pascal Etienne
right slab on the West face of the triangular boulder of Prise de Comprimé, to the opposite of Bidule, at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path.
24	Prise de Comprimé 7a (6c+)	wall / arete / sitstart	-
sitstart of the triangular prow to the opposite of Bidule, in the corridor. Sitstart without crash-pad with a vertical hold right hand, climb the prow with the two aretes and exit at the top.
24	Prise de Comprimé debout 6c	wall / arete / mantle	-
triangular prow to the opposite of Bidule, in the corridor. Standing start, climb the prow with the two aretes and exit at the top.
25	La Rampe du Comprimé 4+	slab	-
on the triangular boulder of Prise de Comprimé, at the crossing of Le Chemin de la Chapelle and the blue path. Start in the corridor, climb the ascending slab to the left and exit at the top.
26	Olloquiegui 7b+	overhang / sitstart / bidoigt	Bart van Raaij
along the blue path, above Coïncident, on the Western ridge of the plateau. Right problem, without the arete.
29	Vendredi 13 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / mantle / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the left face of the boulder of Le Triathlète. Low sitstart in a pit with the two hands on a big hold, climb the overhang and exit above.
30	Je m'suis Fait Tout Petit 7a (6c+)	slightly overhanging / bidoigt / sitstart	François Louvel / Tony Fouchereau
on the big boulder of Le Triathlète. Low sitstart without crash-pad in the slope just left of La Fissure Diago, take a bidoigt left hand and exit by a mantle above.
31	La Fissure Diago 5+ (6a)	arete	-
evident crack to the left of Triathlète, on the big boulder at the top of the hill, along the bend of the blue path. Sitstart is 6c.
31b	Fuite à gauche 6b	slab / crack	Philippe Berger / Pepito
on the big boulder at the top of the hill, along the bend of the blue path. Climb the slab to the left of Le Triathlète and exit with the crack of La Fissure Diago left hand.
32	Le Triathlète 7a+	prow / slab / slopers	-
just left of the crack of Dülferissime, on the big boulder at the top of the hill, along the bend of the blue path. Start left (without crash-pad), climb the slab with the arete right hand and exit on the prow with slopers.
32b	Mono Athlète 7a (7a+)	arete / monos / slightly overhanging	Aurélien Sassier / David Evrard
on the big boulder next to Olloquiegui, on the Western ridge of the plateau. Standing start in a pit with the crack as for Dülferissime, take a monodoigt above on the left and exit by the pillar as for Le Triathlète.
33	Dülferissime 6b	crack / expo	Pascal Etienne
on the big boulder next to Olloquiegui, on the Western ridge of the plateau. Start in a pit, climb the evident crack and exit either via the pillar (expo) of the gully on its right.
34	Hard Rock 7a	dyno	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
just right of Le Triathlète. Make a big dyno from the slab to the holds on the right and exit in the overhang without hooks by convention.
37	- 5	wall / crack	Thierry Vasseur / Eric Jarkoff
in the corridor, on the boulder to the left of Coïncident.
38	- 4	slab	-
small slab in a corridor, on the backside of Coincident,in between the big boulder on the top of the hill and the "floating boulder".
39	Incident Mineur 4-	wall / crack	-
cracked wall to the left of Coïncident, 20m to the right of the big floating boulder of Poignée d'Amour.
40	Coïncident 7b	overhang / dyno / underclings	Jos Leenen / Thierry Vasseur
low start in the 45° overhanging wall, 20m to the right of the big floating boulder of Poignée d'Amour.
42	Modulation 7b (7b+)	overhang / sitstart	François Louvel / David Evrard
on the backside of the boulder of Poignée d'Amour (big floating boulder near the top of the hill). Sitstart with crimps, traverse to the right for 2m and exit with a crack. 7b+ with a sitstart under the roof with the two hands on a big hold, take the ledge.
42b	Altération 7b	overhang / arete / sitstart	David Evrard / Laurent Darlot
on the backside of the boulder of Poignée d'Amour (big floating boulder near the top of the hill). Sitstart under the roof with the two hands on a big hold, take the ledge and exit via the arete.
44	Fais Gaffe où tu Mets tes Pieds 6c+ (6c)	overhang / sitstart / bidoigt	Jos Leenen / Thierry Vasseur
to the right of Duke Nukem, on the big floating boulder of Poignée d'Amour. Sitstart just left of the arete and exit directly.
45	Duke Nukem 7a+	overhang / crimps / sitstart	Jos Leenen
to the right of the crack of Poignée d'Amour, n the big floating boulder near the top of the hill.
45b	Duke & Kitty 7b	overhang / sitstart / crimps	Jos Leenen
to the right of the crack of Poignée d'Amour, on the big floating boulder near the top of the hill. Start as for Duke Nukem, but exit to the right in Fais Gaffe où tu Mets les Pieds.
46	Poignée d'Amour 7b	overhang / sitstart / crack	Jos Leenen
crack in the middle of the big floating boulder near the top of the hill.
47	Mushroom Campus 7b	overhang / sitstart / slopers	Jos Leenen
campus moves on slopers, to the left of the crack of Poignée d'Amour, on the big floating boulder near the top of the hill.
48	Paddo Jump 7a+	overhang / sitstart / dyno	Jos Leenen
left problem on the (5m high) floating boulder near the top of the hill.
48b	Hallucinate 7a+	overhang / sitstart / expo	Jos Leenen / Eric Jarkoff
start as for Paddo Jump, but exit diagonally to the right.
49	La Tortue Lutte 7a (6c+)	belly / slightly overhanging / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
on the tortue shell-like boulder to the opposite of Paddo Jump, near the top of the hill. Start in front of Paddo Jump,
49	La Tortue Lutte assis 7c (7c+)	belly / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the tortue shell-like boulder to the opposite of Paddo Jump, near the top of the hill. Sitstart in front of Paddo Jump, climb the belly and exit above.
50	La Tortue Lutte droite 7b	belly / crimps / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
on the tortue shell-like boulder to the opposite of Paddo Jump, near the top of the hill. Sitstart as for La Tortue Lutte assis with the two hands on a good hold, climb the overhang without touching the big boulder on the left (the good hold on the top is thus excluded) and exit at the top.
52	Fil d'Enfer 6c	arete	-
arete right hand exposed to the North, behind the bivouac, by going down in a small corridor from Appogiature.
53	Bivouac Surprise 6a	roof	-
4m roof in the old bivouac after Le Triathlète.
54	Appogiature 7a (7a+)	arete / sitstart	Stéphan Denys
in a pit behind the bivouac, 20m to the East of the floating boulder of Poignée d'Amour. Sitstart, climb the overhanging arete and exit with an evident undercling. Update (July 2012) : the big undercling has partially broken off.
54	Appogiature debout 7a	arete / expo	Thierry Vasseur
in a pit behind the bivouac, 20m to the East of the floating boulder of Poignée d'Amour. Standing start, climb the overhanging arete and exit with an evident undercling. Update (July 2012) : the big undercling has partially broken off.
55	Diatonique droite 7a (7b)	dyno / wall	François Louvel
in a pit behind the bivouac, to the opposite of a 6c+/7a arete. Jumping start to the ledge and exit to the right.
56	Diatonique 7a	dyno / arete	David Evrard / François Louvel
in a pit behind the bivouac, to the opposite of a 6c+/7a arete. Jumping start to the ledge, traverse to the left and exit via the arete.
59	Aplati 7a	wall / underclings / mantle	Thierry Vasseur
1m to the left of Réta Piscine, on a small boulder 15m to the opposite of the 7m high prow of Motivé. Start with underclings and exit by a mantle on slopers.
60	Réta Piscine 7a	wall / arete / mantle	Thierry Vasseur / Jos Leenen
1m to the right of Aplati, on a small boulder 15m to the opposite of the 7m high prow of Motivé. Start with an undercling and the right arete right hand and exit by a mantle on slopers.
61	La Flèche Rouge 5-	slightly overhanging	-
left problem (with an old red arrow) in the overhang on the West face of the boulder to the left of Motivé.
62	Aussitôt Dit 6c	slightly overhanging	Pascal Etienne
central problem in the overhang on the West face of the boulder to the left of Motivé. Standing start and exit directly, without using the jugs of La Flèche Rouge on the left.
63	Aussitôt Fait 5+	slightly overhanging	-
right problem in the overhang on the West face of the boulder to the left of Motivé. Standing start, climb the slightly overhanging wall diagonally to the right above a boulder on the ground and exit at the end of the face.
64	Motivé 7a+	prow / high / sitstart	Thierry Vasseur
on the 7m high boulder with old red arrow, at the bottom of the slope, at the end of the sector. Sitstart underneath the overhang, go diagonally left to the arete and exit just right of it.
64b	Hissez le Foc 6b	arete / sitstart	Romain Monnier / Rémi Dangla
underneath the blue path, 20m to the opposite of the boulder of Les Gros Trous. Sitstart without crash-apd, climb the arete and exit on the right of that one.
64b	Plat d'Été 7b	high / slopers / sitstart	Jérôme Chaput
on the 7m high boulder with old red arrow, at the bottom of the slope, at the end of the sector. Sitstart underneath the overhang as for Motivé but dyno right hand to a sloper on the right face and exit by a mantle.
66	Colorado Provençal 7a+	roof / crack / sitstart	François Louvel
small roof on the backside of the boulder of Motivé, at the bottom of the slope, at the end of the sector. Low sitstart under the roof, climb a vertical crack and exit by a mantle above.
68	From Dust 7b (7a)	arete / sitstart	François Louvel / David Evrard
on a boulder in the slope, in the North face, 20m underneath Pitt Boule. Sitstart completely left, climb the round arete with heel hooks and horizontal holds and exit at the top of the boulder.
69	Dernière Carte 6b+	wall / underclings / mantle	Pepito
on a boulder in the slope, in the North face, 20m underneath Pitt Boule. Standing start to the right of From Dust, climb the wall with an undercling left hand and exit at the top.
70	Atout Maître 5+ (6a)	wall	Philippe Berger / Pepito
central problem on a boulder in the slope, in the North face, 20m underneath Pitt Boule. Standing start to the right of Dernière Carte and climb the wall directly.
71	Atout Pique 4 (4-)	slab	-
right problem on a boulder in the slope, in the North face, 20m underneath Pitt Boule. Standing start to the right of Atout Maître and climb the slabb diagonally to the right. NB : lichhenous (July 2012).
72	L'Homo ça Pince 7a (7a+)	wall / pinches / sitstart	Thierry Vasseur
on a boulder with an old yellow arrow 5m to the right of Pitt Boule, along the blue path. Sitstart, take a pinch right hand and exit above.
72b	L'Homo sans Pince 6a+ (6b)	wall / pinches / sitstart	Thierry Vasseur
on a boulder with an old yellow arrow 5m to the right of Pitt Boule, along the blue path. Sitstart as for L'Homo ça Pince gauche but take the second vertical hold right hand and exit by a dyno on the right above a stone on the ground.
73	Pitt Boule droite 7b+ (7c)	prow / wall / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart in Pitt Boule, climb the prow but exit rapidly to the right in the wall above a small boulder.
74	Pitt Boule 7a	roof / prow / sitstart	Jos Leenen
alongside the blue path, on the top of the hill. Low sitstart in the roof and exit via the prow.
74b	La Traversée de Pitt Boule 7b+	traverse frtl / slopers / crack	Tony Fouchereau
partir assis dans Pitt Boule, rejoindre la fissure de gauche comme dans Pitt Boule gauche mais continuer à traverser à gauche au ras du sol, rejoindre le bas de La Colonne et sortir dans celle-ci.
75	Pitt Boule gauche 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers / crack	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart in Pitt Boule, get the crack to the left and exit above.
76	La Colonne 6c (6c+)	slopers / sitstart	-
low sitstart to the left of Pitt Boule and exit by the "colonnette" above.
78	Le Mur du Sentier Bleu 4	wall	-
left problem on the characteristic 5m high boulder of Les Gros Trous, on the plateau.
79	Le Mur du Sot 4+	wall / underclings	-
just left of Saut du Varan, on the characteristic 5m high boulder of Les Gros Trous, on the plateau.
80	Le Saut du Varan 4-	crack	-
left crack on the South face of the characteristic 5m high boulder of Les Gros Trous, on the plateau.
81	La Faille 4	crack	-
right crack on the South face of the characteristic 5m high boulder of Les Gros Trous, on the plateau.
82	L'Étoile 5+	pillar	-
pillar with a lichenous exit on the boulder of Pente Mal Effilée (boulder with a star, near the bottom of the slope).
82	La Ripolin 5	pillar	-
pillar with a red arrow on the characteristic 5m high boulder of Les Gros Trous on the plateau. Sitstart is 5c.
83	Les Gros Trous 4+	wall / pockets / expo	-
on the Eastern face of a characteristic 5m high boulder on the plateau.
83	Vestige 5+ (6a)	wall	-
wall with an old piton, on the boulder with a star, near the bottom of the slope, between L'Étoile and Pente Mal Effilée. Low start is 6a.
84	Bonne Prise 4+	wall	-
right problem on the right face of the characteristic 5m high boulder of Les Gros Trous, on the plateau. Sitstart is 5b.
84	Pente Mal Effilée 7c	overhang	Marc Montchaussé
near the bottom of the hill on a big boulder next to the the stairs, along the blue path.
85	Chaude Ambiance 5	wall / pockets / traverse frtl	Philippe Berger / Pepito
traverse to the left in the wall on the backside of the boulder of Les Gros Trous.
86	La Blanchisseuse 5	wall / underclings / sitstart	-
on the Western face of the boulder above La Balisée, on the plateau. Sitstart and climb the wall, using underclings and a bidoigt.
87	Jette-Toi 6a	slab / arete	Pascal Etienne
left problem (with the arete left hand) on the South face of the boulder above La Balisée, on the plateau.
88	La Claudel 4-	wall / crack	-
right problem on the South face of the boulder above La Balisée, on the plateau.
89	La Rodin 4	wall	-
left problem on the Eastern face of the boulder above La Balisée, on the plateau.
90	Dolorosa 5 (5+)	wall / monos	-
right problem on the Eastern face of the boulder above La Balisée, on the plateau.
91	La Traversée de la Balisée 4+ (5-)	traverse fltr	-
traverse on the backside of the boulder of La Balisée, above the one with Boutons, in the South face. Start with the left arete, traverse with the ledge and then in the face and exit at the end.
92	La Balisée 4	slab	-
friction slab above Les Boutons, in the South face. 5b without the crack at the top.
92b	L'Arête de la Balisée 4	slab / arete / slopers	-
to the right of La Balisée, above the boulder with Boutons, in the South face. Start in the slab and exit with the right arete.
93	Le Boutons 3	slab	-
in the South face, at the bottom of the slope. Right problem with a tree at the start.
94	- 2+	slab	-
in the South face, at the bottom of the slope, just left of Les Boutons.
99	La Dalle Blanche de gauche 4	slab	-
left problem on the boulder next to the one with Pente Mal Effilée (boulder with a star, near the bottom of the slope).
100	La Dalle Blanche de droite 3	slab	-
right problem on the boulder next to the one with Pente Mal Effilée (boulder with a star, near the bottom of the slope).

© 1994-2013 bleau.info