Bleau.info : Rocher des Souris : Topo

From the parking lot of La Croix Saint-Jérôme, follow Le Chemin de la Vallée Close for 300m. The small sector of Rocher des Souris is just before the Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes (the big boulders of "Yogi" and "Extraction Terrestre" can easily be seen on the right).

1Oxygène 7btraverse fltr-
***** on an isolated boulder at the bottom of the slope. Start at the highest point, traverse a descending face with big pockets, pass the angle and exit at the end of the second face by a mantle on slopers. Access : before Yogi, follow a small path at the bottom of the hill for 100m (in direction of the South-West); the boulder can be found 30m above (rebrushed in May 2006).
2Oxygène retour 7a+traverse frtl-
*****  [ 19 photos ] back traverse of Oxygène. Start completely right on slopers, traverse in a first face, pass the angle, continue on a second face with big pockets and exit at the second angle. from Yogi, Access : before Yogi, follow a small path at the bottom of the hill for 100m (in direction of the South-West); the boulder can be found 30m above. Rebrushed in May 2006.
2bOxygène Actif 7ctraverseBernard Théret
***** Oxygène there and back (exit by the slopers on the right).
4Yoga 7a (6c)roof / sitstartPepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the right of Yogi, along the 25 Bosses path, on the right at the crossroad beyond the parking lot.
4bYoga en traversée 7b+ (7c)overhang / traverse frtl / sitstartTony Fouchereau
***** sitstart in Yoga, continue to traverse to the left on the ledge of the roof (without the top holds by convention), pass Yogi and Yoguignol, take the good holds of Le Surplomb Rouge and exit 2m50 further just left of a black n°30 painted on the rock.
5Yogi 7broofChristophe Laumone
*****  [ 2 videos ]  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 25 photos ] to the left of Yoga, along the 25 Bosses path, on the right at the crossroad beyond the parking. (GPS: N48.386670 E2.523280)
5bYoguignol 7broofFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Laurent Raviot
***** start as for Yogi but go to the left at the ledge of the roof, take a round hold on the left of the angle and exit with the arete right hand. (GPS: N48.386670 E2.523280)
6Le Surplomb Rouge 6a (6a+)overhang-
***** central problem, marked with a red arrow, with a low start in the overhang to the left of Yogi.
7- 5+overhang-
*****  [ 1 video ] to the left of Suplomb Rouge, on the boulder of Yogi.
8- 5+wall / arete-
***** on the left face of the boulder of Yogi.
10Extraction Terrestre 7a+roof / prow / sitstartBernard Théret
*****  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 17 photos ] direct prow just right of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes, behind Yogi; morpho. NB : the original problem was a traverse to the left and a direct exit by the prow (7b).
10bVis-à-Vis 7asitstart / pockets / overhangPepito
*****  [ 1 video ] just right of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes, behind Yogi. Sitstart from the jug and reach the exit of Extraction Terrestre by a hook left before finishing right.
10cExtraction Lunaire 6broof / pockets / sitstart-
***** to the left of Le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes, 20m after Yogi. Sitstart on the right as for Extraction Terrestre, but continue to traverse under the roof and exit on the left of the overhang.
11Extraction Martienne 6broofLoïc de Saint Etienne / Guillaume Mainbourg
on the left face of the boulder of Extraction Terrestre. Start under the roof and exit at the top of that one.
12Prouesse 7b (7b+)prowPatrick Sercki / Jo Montchaussé
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 5 photos ] along the 25 Bosses path, 30m above Yogi. (GPS: N48.386380 E2.522950)
14Téléphone Maison 7a+traverse frtl / pockets / slopersBernard Théret
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder to the right of Prouesse, 30m above Yogi. Sitstart to the right of the arete, traverse to the left on jugs followed by slopers and exit by a mantle at a small tree.
16Musculus 6c (7a)traverse fltr / mantle / sitstartTony Fouchereau / Pierre Délas
on a boulder with a small tunnel, along the 25 Bosses path, 30m above Prouesse. Sitstart on the left face, traverse on slopers, pass through the taunnel (without touching the back boulder) and exit by a mantle just after.
17Ratatouille 7b (7c)roof / sitstartTony Fouchereau
evident roof with marbled holds, along the 25 Bosses path, 30m above the tunnel of Musculus. Sitstart on the right with an ear-shaped hold right hand and a vertical hold left hand, dyno to the left of the roof and exit above with a good pocket.
18Le Petit Velociraptor 6cwall-
***** right problem on the boulder of Kric-Crak, in the evident overhang to the left of the 25 Bosses path, 20m from Ratatouille in the North face. 6c+ by starting to the left from the jug of Clic-Clac.
19Clic-Clac 5- (5)slightly overhanging / sitstart-
sitstart in the overhang to the right of Kric-Crak, and exit directly.
20Kric-Crak 7bprowPhilippe Dumez
***** evident overhang to the left of the 25 Bosses path, 20m from Ratatouille in the North face. Standing start to the right (a sitstart is also possible with the same grade), climb the overhanging prow, take the arete left hand and exit in the right face with a crimp right hand.
21Velociraptor 7cslightly overhanging / prow / dynoFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Frédéric Bouyge
***** evident overhang to the left of the 25 Bosses path, 20m from Ratatouille in the North face. Start to the left of the overhang with a good vertical crimp left hand, climb the roof to the right for 2m with a big dyno and exit in Kric-Crak with the arete left hand.
21bVelociraptor en traversée 7b+ (7c)slightly overhanging / traverse fltrTony Fouchereau
evident overhang to the left of the 25 Bosses path, 20m from Ratatouille in the North face. Start to the left of the overhang as for Velociraptor but after the big dyno, downclimb up to the sitstart of Kric-Crak, pass the angle and exit above in Le Petit Velociraptor (without using the small boulders on the ground).
22L'Homme Volant 7carete / slopers / sitstartPierre Délas / Cédric Chambellan
***** small slightly overhanging arete underneath Vélociprator, in the upper part of the sector. Sitstart with the two hands in a moon-shaped hold, climb the arete diagonally to the left and exit at its top.
23La Souris Volante 5arete-
left arete on the boulder of L'Homme Volant, in the upper part of the sector.
24Un Trou de Souris 6b (6a)roof / sitstart / slopersTony Fouchereau
several meters underneath L'Homme Volant, in the upper part of the sector.
26La Petite Souris 3slab-
right problem on the highest boulder up the slope, above Kric-Crak.
27La Dalle centrale des Souris 5+slab-
central slab on the highest boulder up the slope, above Kric-Crak.
28La Grande Dalle des Souris 6cslab / topropePhilippe Dumez
high slab, starting at a big jug, on the highest boulder up the slope, above Kric-Crak.
29L'Angle des Souris 6barete / slab / expo-
angle with a tree on the highest boulder up the slope, above Kric-Crak.
30- 6awall-
right problem on the West face of the highest boulder up the slope, above Kric-Crak.
31- 5wall-
central problem on the West face of the highest boulder up the slope, above Kric-Crak.
32- 3wall-
left problem on the West face of the highest boulder up the slope, above Kric-Crak.
34La Souris Transgénique 7b (7b+)traverse frtl / wall / expoTony Fouchereau
on the boulder to the opposite of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte. Sitstart on the right of the boulder, low traverse above the corridor and exit completely left in T'Inquiète.
35- 4wall-
right problem on the boulder to the opposite of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte.
36- 4+wall-
second problem from the right on the boulder to the opposite of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte.
37- 5wallPhilippe Dumez
direct wall on the boulder to the opposite of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte.
38T'Inquiète 6c (6c+)wall / arete / expoPhilippe Dumez
left angle on the boulder to the opposite of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte. Start at the tree and exit directly without touching that one.
40La Souris Mécanique (sortie directe) 7a (6c+)traverse fltr / pockets / wallTony Fouchereau
on a long boulder with characteristic wide holes, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte. Sitstart at the left arete, traverse on big pockets and slopers and exit before the right angle in La Directe.
40bLa Souris Mécanique 6c (6b+)traverse fltr / pocketsTony Fouchereau
on a long boulder with characteristic wide holes, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte. Sitstart at the left arete, traverse on big pockets and slopers and exit after the right angle in L'Envers de la Mécanique.
41- 5arete-
left angle on the long boulder with characteristic wide holes of La Souris Mécanique, underneath L'Homme Volant.
42La Fissure Mécanique 4+crackPhilippe Dumez
left problem on the principal face of the long boulder with characteristic wide holes of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte.
43Tourne à Gauche 6bwallPhilippe Dumez
central problem on the principal face of the long boulder with characteristic wide holes of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte.
44La Directe 6c (6a+)wallFabrice Frébourg
right problem on the principal face of the long boulder with characteristic wide holes of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte.
45L'Envers de la Mécanique 4arete-
right angle on the long boulder with characteristic wide holes of La Souris Mécanique, between L'Homme Volant and La Souris Verte.
46Mouse Moussue 2+slab-
warming-up problem on the East face of the boulder to the opposite of La Souris Verte.
47La Flèche Orange 3slab-
slab to the opposite of La Souris Verte.
48La Souris Verte 7aprow / sitstart / expoPhilippe Dumez
***** on a big boulder up the slope, to the left of the sector. Sitstart to the right, traverse to the left and exit directly by the prow, using flat pockets and crimps.
49Face de Rat 6cwall / topropePhilippe Dumez
just left of La Souris Verte.
50Mistoufly 7awall / dynoPhilippe Dumez
to the left of La Souris Verte. Dyno to the big jug and exit on the left.
50bMistoufly droite 7a+wall / dyno / topropePhilippe Dumez
to the left of La Souris Verte. Dyno to the big jug and exit in Face de Rat.
51- 3+wall-
left problem on the boulder of La Souris Verte. Start at big jug and exit directly.
52L'Arête Sud 6carete / topropePhilippe Dumez
left arete on the boulder of La Souris Verte.
53La Souris Jaune 3slab-
on the West face of the boulder of La Souris Verte.
54Le Trou de Derrière 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / arete / dynoJulien Gasc / Pierre Délas
on the back face of the boulder to the left of La Souris Verte. Standing start in a pit in the middle of the overhang with the two hands on a moon-shaped hold, take the arete and exit without touching the boulders on the left.
55Le Souriceau 4slab-
tiny slab to the opposite of L'Arête Sud, to the left of L'Arête Sud.
56Le Poing Levé de Tommie Smith 7b (7b+)slightly overhanging / expoFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
evident overhang to the right and underneath Trou de Derrière. Le Trou de Derrière. Standing start with a good pocket left hand and a crimp right hand, traverse slightly to the right and exit above with another good pocket.
57Le Poing Levé de Tommie Smith assis 7b+ (7c)slightly overhanging / expo / sitstartFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
evident overhang to the right and underneath Trou de Derrière. Le Trou de Derrière. Sitstart (without crash-pad) to the left of the boulder, and exit as for Le Poing Levé de Tommie Smith.
58Bernard 6c (6b+)slightly overhangingFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Tony Fouchereau
left problem on a boulder 20m underneath Le Poing Levé de Tommie Smith, above Le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes. Standing start to the left and exit to the left of the arete without touching the back boulder.
59Bianca 7b (7a+)slightly overhanging / mantle / slabTony Fouchereau
right problem on a boulder 20m underneath Le Poing Levé de Tommie Smith, above Le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes. Standing start in the belly to the right of Bernard and exit in the slab above.
60Le Bracelet Magique 6b (6c)traverse frtl / mantle / sitstart-
on the backside of a boulder 10m above le Chemin de la Plaine de Jean des Vignes. Sitstart at the right angle with a crimp right hand, traverse on the ledge using a characteristic pierced pocket and exit by a mantle on the left angle.

 

Outside the topo

Prouesse assis 7c+prow / sitstartLaurent Vigouroux
***** along the 25 Bosses path, 30m above Yogi. Sitstart on a small crah-pad with the arete left hand and an undercling right hand, climb the prow and exit in Prouesse. (GPS: N48.386380 E2.522950)
Squeeze Me 6cprow / pinches / slopersIvan Moreels
***** evident prow on the backside of a digged overhang, 50m to the West of the picknick tables on the right of the parking lot of La Croix Saint-Jérôme.
Squeeze Me assis 6c+prow / pinches / sitstartIvan Moreels
*****  [ 1 video ] sitstart of the prow on the backside of a digged overhang, 50m to the West of the picknick tables on the right of the parking lot of La Croix Saint-Jérôme.
Fokechnikov 6cdynoJulien Gasc / Marc Lehner
***** 1m50 to the left of Squeeze Me, on the backside of a digged overhang, 50m to the West of the picknick tables on the right of the parking lot of La Croix Saint-Jérôme. Dyno from a crimp left hand to the good sloper of Squeeze Me and exit in that one.
Mucho Bueno 6b (6c)aretePhilippe Dumez / Alain Suidi
exit crack of La Malle des Indes, 100m after Squeeze Me, up the slope.
Mucho Bueno assis 7acrack / sitstartPhilippe Dumez
***** 100m after Squeeze Me, up the slope. Sitstart (without crash-pad) with the second undercling of the low part of La Malle des Indes, dyno to the crack and exit with that one at the top of the boulder. NB : sitstart at the bottom of the crack is only 6c.
La Malle des Indes 7a+ (7b)crack / underclings / traverse frtlBernard Théret
***** 100m after Squeeze Me, up the slope. Start in the small right face, passe the angle, low traverse with underclings, dyno to the crack and exit with that one at the top of the boulder.
Hueco Trip 6c (6c+)prow / overhang / sitstartFrançois-Xavier Joubert / Thierry Vasseur
on an isolated boulder in the West face, 20m underneath the top of the hill, on the left and under Hueco Camp. Access : follow the 25 Bosses path up to the top of the hill; the boulder is 20m underneath a characteristic roof protected by a fence.
Hueco Camp 7aoverhang / sitstart / expoElric Besnier / Gérald Coste
***** on an isolated boulder in the West face, 20m underneath the top of the hill, to the right and above Hueco Trip. Sitstart in the corridor, traverse to the right, pass the angle and exit on the prow slightly right. Access : follow the 25 Bosses path up to the top of the hill; the boulder is 20m underneath a characteristic roof protected by a fence.

© 1994-2013 bleau.info