Bleau.info : Buthiers Tennis : Topo

thanks to David Evrard & Nicolas Decoster

1	Grizzli 6b	wall / high / sitstart	Pepito
left problem on the boulder underneath Sables Émouvants. Sitstart with good holds, traverse slightly to the right and exit with the boss.
2	- 6a+	dyno	-
dyno on the boulder to the opposite of Grizzli.
3	Sables Émouvants 7b	traverse frtl	Christophe Laumone
short traverse 30m behind La Mygale.
4	- 7a+	traverse fltr	-
to the left of the boulder of La Mygale.
5	La Mygale 7b+ (7b)	traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
50m to the left of La Coccinelle; start to the left almost behind the boulder and exit in a slab with crimps. Update (feb 2005) : the slab needs to be brushed since many climbers do not use that exit.
5'	Les Nouveaux Pauvres 8a	traverse / overhang	-
start in La Mygale and exit in Le Mépris.
5''	Moment de Vérité 8a (8a+)	traverse fltr / arete	Ludo Guérin
start completely left in the big face as for La Mygale and exit in the overhanging arete of La Fourmi Verte. NB : the grade has to be confirmed.
6	Le Mépris 7b+	wall	-
on the boulder with La Mygale, 50m to the left of La Coccinelle
7	La Fourmi Verte 7b	arete	Tony Lamiche
immediately to the right of Le Mépris, on the boulder of La Mygale.
8	Dernier Bal 7b+	traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
in between La Coccinelle and La Mygale.
9	- 6b	sitstart	-
on the boulder of Dernier Bal, to the right of Flagrand Désir.
9'	- 6c	traverse fltr	-
on the boulder of Dernier Bal, to the right of Flagrand Désir.
9''	La Mulas 6c	sitstart / arete	David Evrard / Christian Merimeche
on the boulder of Dernier Bal, 20m to the left of La Coccinelle. Sitstart to the right and exit via the left arete
10	- 3+ (4-)	slab / high	-
initiation problem equipped with spits on the South face of the boulder of La Mulas.
11	- 4 (4+)	slab / high	-
initiation problem equipped with spits on the backside of the boulder of La Mulas.
12	- 4+	wall	-
initiation problem equipped with spits on the boulder above La Mulas.
13	Les Monos 7a	slightly overhanging / monos / pockets	Gilles Cottray
behind La Coccinelle; two possible exits. Sitstart is 7b.
13'	Les Monos assis 7b	sitstart / slightly overhanging / monos	-
behind La Coccinelle; sitstart of Les Monos
14	Apte 2 6c+	wall / slab	-
right problem on the right of the exit of La Coccinelle; slightly morpho.
14'	Apte 1 6b+	wall / slab	-
left problem on the right of the exit of La Coccinelle
15	La Coccinelle 7c+ (8a)	traverse fltr	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
near the picknicktables NB : the grading depends on which exit you take.
15'	La Coccinelle en aller-retour 8a+	traverse	Christophe Laumone
there and back of La Coccinelle, near the picnic tables.
15''	Le Pouf 6c	wall / sitstart	-
sitstart of the exit variant of La Coccinelle, 1m to the left of the classical exit.
16	Flagrand Désir 7c (7b+)	wall / dyno / high	Alain Ghersen
to the left of the arete of La Ligne Blanche, on a white boulder just left of the tennis courts. Take a vertical hold left hand, dyno to a pocket and exit above. NB : start from rock is 7b+.
17	La Ligne Blanche 7b	arete	Philippe Le Denmat
to the right of Flagrand Désir, on a white boulder to the left of the tennis courts.
22	Le Frelon Vert 7a+	traverse fltr / overhang / high	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
just to the left of the tenniscourts, on a huge boulder above and to the right of Les Monos. After an evident start, traverse to the right with a horizontal crack, pass the arete with high holds, go down, traverse the slab and exit via the arete (30 moves).
23	Dark Room 7a+ (7b)	sitstart / overhang	Vincent Pochon
to the left and behind Le Frelon Vert, near the tennis courts.
24	- 5+	wall / pockets	-
to the opposite of Marmelade.
25	Marmelade 7b	overhang	Teddy Deschamps
50m to the left of La Mygale; slightly morpho.
25'	Ant Hill Mob 6b+	wall / mantle	-
on the backside of the boulder of Marmelade, 50m to the left of La Mygale. Start at the center of the wall on good holds and exit to the left. NB : old problem rediscovered by Neil Hart and Anthony Allsopp.
26	Nemesis 7a	pillar	Teddy Deschamps
80m to the left of La Mygale, on the boulder to the right of a nameless 7b/c wall
27	L'Éminence Grise 6a	crack	-
direct crack to the left of Nemesis.
27'	L'Amortissement 6c	dyno	-
dyno to the left of Nemesis.
28	118-218 7a (6c)	wall / crack	-
80m to the left of La Mygale, on the boulder of a nameless 7b/c wall; wall with vertical craks exposed to the East; direct exit is 7a (morpho) and right exit is 6b/c
28'	L'Épaule 6a	wall	-
on the right face of the boulder of 118-218, 60m to the left of La Mygale.
28''	Coup de Brosse 5+	wall	-
to the right of 118-218, on a boulder 60m to the left of La Mygale.
29	- 7c (7b)	wall / crimps	Jean-Pierre Bouvier
crimpsy wall exposed South-West, 80m to the left of La Mygale. NB : it seems that this problem has been opened by Jean-Pierre Bouvier with a morpho 7b start.
29'	- 6a	wall / crack	-
to the left of a nameless 7b/c wall, on the boulder of 118-218.
30	Halloween 7c+	wall / crimps	Catherine Miquel
three moves wall, 200m to the left of La Mygale. Update (October 2009) : it is likely that sand has been added on the ground, making the problem obsolete.
		Outside the topo
Los Manos 6c		wall / monos	-
just left of Les Monos, behind the boulder of La Coccinelle.
Flagrand Désir direct 6c+ (7a)		wall / expo	-
direct version of Flagrand Désir, to the left pf La Ligne Blanche, on a white boulder just left of the tennis courts. Start as for the classical version, take the vertical hold right hand and then a crimp in the face above the small boulder on the ground (morpho) and exit as for Flagrand Désir.
Z10 7b		wall	Vincent Pochon
on the East face of the boulder with the graffiti "Z10", completely to the West of the sector, to the left of the thalweg when going up the slope. Start in a pit, take a vertical hold right hand, put left foot on a step, take a crimp left hand and exit on slopers.
La Traversée du Mulas 7a+		traverse frtl / arete	Christian Merimeche
20m to the left of La Coccinelle. Start right, make the back traverse of Le Dernier Bal and exit in La Mulas.
- 6a		pillar / sitstart	-
1m50 to the right of Le Grizzli, underneath Sables Émouvants, near the road. Sitstart, climb the pillar and exit at the top of the boulder.
Viande Blanche 6a		wall / arete	-
arete left hand on a boulder 20m above La Coccinelle.
Viande Rouge 6b		arete	Pepito
arete right hand with an undercling left hand, on a boulder 20m above La Coccinelle.
Le Syndrome du Titanic 6a		wall / high	Pepito
5m above the boulder of Viande Rouge.
Teddy Bear 7a		wall / bidoigt	Pascal Etienne
on the boulder under Sables Émouvants, near the road. Standing start just right of Grizzli with a hold of that one left hand, take a painful bidoigt right hand and exit on characteristic lumpy holds.
Résilience 7a+		overhang / slopers / underclings	François Louvel
just above the road at a house, 20m to the left of the nameless 7b/c wall and Nemesis.
Le Jardinet 6c+		wall / crack / sitstart	Pepito / François Louvel
on the boulder to the left of Halloween, 15m above the road. Sitstart on the left of the boulder, climb the crack, make a mantle and exit by a traverse to the right along a second crack.
Avant-Première 7a		traverse frtl / underclings / slopers	Pepito / François Louvel
on the boulder to the left of Halloween, 15m above the road. Start on the right, traverse in the oblique ledge, climb the vertical crack as for Jardinet, make a mantle and exit by a traverse to the right along a second crack.
Tso 3		traverse frtl	François Louvel
on the plateau, above Nemesis.
- 5		wall	François Louvel
right problem on the boulder to the left of Halloween,at the start of the traverse of Je Veux un Jardinet.
- 6b		roof / mantle / sitstart	François Louvel
central problem on the boulder to the left of Halloween, with a lying start in the small roof in the middle of the traverse of Je Veux un Jardinet.
Pierre Frivole 6c		wall	-
wall exposed to the West, completely to the left of the sector, above Halloween.
- 4+		slightly overhanging / dihedral	-
start in the overhang just right of Marmelade and exit by the dihedral.
Le Dragon 6a+		arete	Pepito / Yann Bruneau
arete right hand just left of Dark Room.
- 4+		slab / high	-
direct slab on the West face of the boulder of La Coccinelle.
Passage à Niveau 5+		slab	-
left problem on the North face of a boulder above La Ligne Blanche and the tennis courts.
L'Angle Net 5+		arete	-
arete right hand on the North face of a boulder above La Ligne Blanche and the tennis courts.
- 4+		slab / traverse fltr / high	-
ascending traverse equipped with spits just under the plateau, above the boulder of La Coccinelle.
- 6a (6b)		pillar	-
underneath the plateau, to the left of the path that goes up the slope from La Coccinelle.
- 6a (6b)		arete / expo	-
on a small bolder above 118-218.
L'Épreuve 7b (7b+)		dyno / pockets	-
just right of Les Monos. Jump start from a pocket right hand without touching the stone to the right and finish to the right with good holds. NB : this old problem has been rediscovered recently.
Zou 5+ (6a)		wall / pockets	David Evrard
just right of the angle at the start of the traverse of La Mygale, with the pocket on the right.
Zou direct 6b (6c)		wall	David Evrard
direct wall just right of the angle at the start of the traverse of La Mygale.
- 6b (6c)		slightly overhanging / crack	-
on a boulder completely to the East of the sector, above the tennis courts. Left problem by exiting with the crack.
- 6b (6c)		slightly overhanging / overhang	-
on a boulder completely to the East of the sector, above the tennis courts. Right problem by exiting in the overhang.
- 6b		pillar	-
pillar just under the plateau, up the slope above the boulder of La Coccinelle.
- 6c+		roof / belly / sitstart	François Louvel
on the North face of a boulder just under the plateau, up the slope above Le Dernier Bal. Lying start in the roof and exit by a belly.
- 3		crack / dihedral	-
to the left of the overhang of Charme et Frêne, up the slope above the boulder of La Mygale.
Charme et Frêne 6c		overhang	Pascal Terray / François Louvel
just under the plateau, to the right of a 3b crack-dihedral, up the slope above the boulder of La Mygale.
- 5		wall	-
left problem on a wall just under the plateau, above a nameless 6c+ roof, up the slope from the boulder of Le Dernier Bal.
- 5		wall	-
right problem on a wall just under the plateau, above a nameless 6c+ roof, up the slope from the boulder of Le Dernier Bal.
- 6b		overhang / wall / high	-
on the North face of a boulder just under the plateau, to the East of a nameless 6c+ roof, up the slope from the boulder of Le Dernier Bal. Start in the overhang and exit in a high wall. Easier by starting on the left.
Mausolée pour Roland Bokos 7c		slightly overhanging / crimps / expo	Loïc Le Denmat
8m high problem on the backside of the boulder of Dark Room, above Flagrand Désir. Jump start from the pit to the lip of the overhang, climb the face on crimps and exit at the top of the boulder.
Chien Perdu 6a+		slab	-
direct slab just right of a dihedral, on the right face of the boulder of Marmelade.
Samba 4+		slab	Philippe Le Denmat
to the right of Samba, on the North-West face of the small boulder behind the one with La Ligne Blanche, to the left and slightly above the tennis courts.
Que Dalle 5+ (6a)		slab	Philippe Le Denmat
direct slab (without the left crack) to the left of Samba, on the North-West face of the small boulder behind the one with La Ligne Blanche, to the left and slightly above the tennis courts.
Dans les Méandres du Sable 7a		slab / crimps	Philippe Le Denmat
slab on the exit face of the boulder of La Mygale. Start on marbled crimps, take a good pocket right hand and exit above. NB : a 7a+ direct version (by Loïc Le Denmat) avoiding the big pocket is also possible.

© 1994-2012 bleau.info