Mont Ussy : red TD+ (n°4)

Area description
Take the Route de la Fontaine or the Route de Bon Secours in the North of Fontainebleau and park at the forest house of Huit Routes. The circuits can be attained by following the blue path n°1 for 500m. For the sectors around La Roche d'Hercule, it is possible to park at Le Carrefour du Mont Ussy. Notice that all sectors are easily accessible on foot from the railway station of Fontainebleau-Avon (20 minutes walk).

GPS parking lot

• N 48.418319, E 2.694425

GPS start of the circuit

• N 48.420634, E 2.692895

1	Ded'Ussy 5	wall / slopers	Gilles Cottray
2	Cher Cul Tari 5+	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
3	La Bas Lance 6b	overhang	Gilles Cottray
3 bis	L'Être Hâve 7c	overhang	Gilles Cottray
	red n°3 bis; start low. See also:  L'Être Hâve assis 7c+
3 ter	Help! (où ça?) / Banzai 7a+	overhang / dyno	Gilles Cottray / Stéphan Denys
	jumpstart.
4	Le Bas Rage 6b	wall	Frédéric Buc
5	Détour Réussi 6a	overhang	Gilles Cottray
	See also:   La Gym Mène au Dépit 7a
5 bis	La Gym Mène au Dépit 7a	overhang	Gilles Cottray
	direct version of red n°5. See also: Détour Réussi 6a
6	Bifur'action 6a	overhang / pockets / expo	Gilles Cottray
7	Sous Vent 6a	bidoigt / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
8	Par Foi 6b	wall / pockets / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
9	Rare Ment 5+	arete / traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
	high traverse.
9 bis	Le Bis est-ce le Mou? 7a	traverse frtl / pockets / bidoigt	Gilles Cottray
	start right as for red n°9, low traverse to the left with pockets above a small boulder and exit in red n°7. NB : still realizable despite a broken hold.
10	Ussy Peur 6c+	overhang / high	Gilles Cottray
11	Ussy tôt Fait 6b+ (6b)	crack / overhang	Gilles Cottray
	See also:  Ussy Cat 7a+
11 bis	Ussy Cat 7a+	overhang / dyno / expo	Gilles Cottray
	climb the crack of red n°11 but exit to the right, by a dynamic move. See also:  Ussy tôt Fait 6b+ (6b)
12	L'Ussy Faire 6a	wall	Gilles Cottray
12 bis	Les Grands Pas m'Émurent 7a+	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
	start at the slab of orange n°12, traverse to the right with vertical holds and exit after a small angle. See also: Même Mur 7a+, Le Ter Mine à Tort 7b+
13	Le Pro s'talque 6a (6a+)	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
13 bis	L'Âpre s'Tate 7a	traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
	start right at the arrow and traverse to the left, using low holds at the angle.
14	La Vidange Heureuse 5+	wall	Gilles Cottray
15	Dose de Sables 5+	slightly overhanging / slopers	Gilles Cottray
16	Grosse Bosse 6b	wall / crimps / mantle	Gilles Cottray
16 bis	Big Brosse 7a	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
	slightly lichenous (April 2006).
17	Le Rat Joue 5	traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
18	L'Abbé Résigné 5+	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
	See also: - 5-
18 bis	L'Arbre est Résineux 7a	traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
	start at the same point as red n°18, low traverse and exit above a small overhang.
19	Redescente Climatisée 5+	traverse fltr / wall	Gilles Cottray
20	Le Cas Lisse 6a	traverse fltr / slopers	Gilles Cottray
21	P'tit Stress 5	expo	Gilles Cottray
22	Bille Hard 5+	wall / underclings	Gilles Cottray
22 bis	Le Salaire du Labeur 6b	arete / expo	Gilles Cottray
22 ter	Le Ter Miné 5	wall / expo	Gilles Cottray
23	Promenade Déjantée 5+	-	Gilles Cottray
23 bis	Hypopothèse 6c+	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
	on the boulder of orange n°27. Start on the ground and traverse without the holds on the top.
24	Triste S 6c	-	Gilles Cottray
25	L'Écaille Farcie 6b+	-	Gilles Cottray
26	Génération Taupe 6b	traverse	Gilles Cottray
	the return traverse is also 6b.
27	Conne Cave 6a	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
28	La Bouche Rit 6b	traverse frtl / wall	Gilles Cottray
28 bis	Carpe et Hyène 7b	traverse fltr / overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
	sitstart, traverse to the right with high holds and exit in the prow (low traverse of red n°28 ter is 7b+).
28 ter	Sous la Proue 7b+	sitstart / traverse fltr / prow	Gilles Cottray
	sitstart as for Carpe et Hyène (red n°28 bis), traverse to the right under the prow and exit in Le Piano Aqueux (red n°29).
29	Le Piano Aqueux 6c	wall / traverse frtl / prow	Gilles Cottray
29 bis	L'Hésitation Transcendentale 7a+	overhang / traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
30	L'Aumône Nourrit 5+	traverse fltr / wall	Gilles Cottray
30 bis	Gras, Vit-on? 7a+	overhang / traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
31	Bombé l'Entorse 5+	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
32	La Diagonale du Filou 6b	wall / traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
32 bis	L'Effort Mis au Rouge 7a	traverse frtl / arete	Gilles Cottray
33	Le Penchant Final 6b+	wall	Gilles Cottray
33 bis	Le Mûr par Fermentation 7a+	traverse fltr / arete	Gilles Cottray

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