Bleau.info : Mont Ussy : Topo

thanks to Gilles Cottray & François Louvel

Take the Route de la Fontaine or the Route de Bon Secours in the North of Fontainebleau and park at the forest house of Huit Routes. The circuits can be attained by following the blue path n°1 for 500m. For the sectors around La Roche d'Hercule, it is possible to park at Le Carrefour du Mont Ussy. Notice that all sectors are easily accessible on foot from the railway station of Fontainebleau-Avon (20 minutes walk).

		Circuit PD- yellow (nº 2)
1	La Dalle au Trou 1	slab	-
1 bis	La Ramoneuse 3-	-	-
2	La Montée des Pieds 2	-	-
2 bis	Le Dièdre des Montussiennes 2+	dihedral	-
3	La Cuvette 2	-	-
3 bis	La Pessimiste 3+	-	-
4	La Traversée Bleue 2	traverse	-
5	La Grande Patte 2	-	-
6	La Directe 2+	-	-
7	La Bonnarde 2	-	-
8	Le Tire-Bras 2	-	-
8 bis	Le Petit Surplomb 3	overhang	-
8 ter	La Pousse-Pied 2+	-	-
9	Le Petit Réta 2	mantle	-
10	Le Dièdre Jaune 2	dihedral	-
11	Le Toboggan 2	-	-
12	Le Mur aux Fougères 2	wall	-
12 bis	Le Pilier Gigi 2	pillar	-
13	La Balade 2	-	-
14	Le Sandwich 2	-	-
14 bis	L'Expo 3-	expo	-
15	Le Casse-tête 2	-	-
16	La Niche 2+	-	-
17	Les Mains en l'Air 2	-	-
18	La Simplissime 2	-	-
19	Les Pieds en l'Air 2	-	-
20	Les Deux Doigts 2+	-	-
21	Le Grand Muret 2+	-	-
22	La Sans Nom 2	-	-
22 bis	Le Surplomb des Gros Bras 3+	overhang	-
23	Le Mamelonné 2	-	-
24	Le Denecourt 2	-	-
25	La Dalle aux Grattons 2	slab / crimps	-
26	Le Dernier des Mohicans 2+	-	-
27	La Mal Placée 2	-	-
28	L'Arrivée Bof 2	-	-
		Circuit AD+ orange (nº 3)
1	- 3	wall	-
2	- 3	-	-
3	- 3	-	-
4	- 3+	-	-
5	- 3+	-	-
6	- 4-	-	-
7	- 3+	-	-
8	- 3+	-	-
9	- 4-	-	-
10	- 3	-	-
11	- 3+	-	-
12	- 4-	slab	-
13	- 3+	-	-
14	- 3	-	-
15	- 4-	-	-
16	- 3	-	-
17	- 4-	-	-
18	- 4-	-	-
19	- 3+	-	-
20	- 4-	-	-
21	- 3-	-	-
22	- 3+	-	-
23	- 4-	-	-
24	- 3+	-	-
25	- 4-	-	-
26	- 3	-	-
27	- 2+	-	-
28	- 3+	-	-
29	- 4-	slightly overhanging	-
30	- 3-	-	-
31	- 4-	-	-
		Circuit D+ virtual (nº 6)
1	- 4-	wall	-
direct version of orange n°1.
2	- 5-	wall	-
in between red n°1 and the exit of red n°2.
3	- 5-	pillar	-
to the left of red n°1.
4	- 4	pillar / slightly overhanging	-
belly to the left of the pillar, on the boulder of red n°1.
5	- 4+	pillar / slightly overhanging	-
bis arrow.
6	- 5-	wall	-
to the left of orange n°5.
7	- 4- (4)	traverse frtl	-
to the left of orange n°8. Start at the pillar and traverse 1m to the left.
8	- 5	belly	-
belly in between red n°7 and red n°8. Start from the boulder.
9	- 4	mantle	-
ground start of orange n°7 and exit via a mantle in the jug.
10	- 4	pillar	-
pillar to the right of red n°12.
11	- 4	slab	-
to the left of orange n°14.
12	- 5-	wall	-
to the right of n°15 orange.
13	- 4+	slightly overhanging	-
orange bis on the boulder of orange n°16.
14	- 4+	pillar	-
pillar to the right of orange n°17.
15	- 5-	pillar	-
pillar to the left of orange n°19.
16	- 4	pillar / slightly overhanging	-
direct problem at the beginning of red n°16 bis.
17	- 5	wall	-
direct problem at the exit of red n°16 bis, just under the big pocket.
18	- 5	arete / slopers	-
round arete 10m above red n°16 bis.
19	- 4	slab	-
bis arrow to the left of orange n°21.
20	- 5-	slopers	-
direct problem at the start of red n°17.
21	- 4	-	-
direct problem in the middle of red n°17.
22	- 5	traverse frtl	-
to the left of the pillar on the boulder of red n°17.
23	- 5-	traverse frtl	-
back traverse of red n°18.
24	- 4	pillar / slopers	-
orange bis to the opposite of red n°18.
25	- 4-	pillar / slopers	-
bis orange à droite du n°19 rouge.
26	- 4	slab	-
eliminate to the right of orange n°25.
27	- 4-	pillar	-
pillar to the left of red n°21.
28	- 4+	slab / expo	-
orange n°26 bis.
29	- 5	overhang / sitstart	-
sitstart in the overhang of red n°23.
30	- 4	slightly overhanging	-
former yellow problem to the left of orange n°29.
31	- 4+	overhang	-
former yellow problem to the right of orange n°29.
32	- 4	slightly overhanging	-
belly on the boulder behind the arrival of the orange circuit.
33	- 5-	traverse / dihedral	-
right exit of red n°24. Start at the pillar and exit via the dihedral on the right.
34	- 4+	wall	-
orange n°31 bis.
35	- 4	prow / mantle	-
mantle on the prow between red n°28 and red n°29.
36	- 4	wall	-
diagonal to the right at the start of red n°33 bis.
37	- 4+	slightly overhanging / slab	-
diagonal to the right on the start of the pillar of red n°33 bis; exit via the gully.
38	- 5 (5+)	wall	-
wall to the right of red n°33.
		Circuit TD+ red (nº 4)
1	Ded'Ussy 5	wall / slopers	Gilles Cottray
2	Cher Cul Tari 5+	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
3	La Bas Lance 6b	overhang	Gilles Cottray
3 bis	L'Être Hâve 7c	overhang	Gilles Cottray
red n°3 bis; start low.
3 ter	Help! (où ça?) / Banzai 7a+	overhang / dyno	Gilles Cottray / Stéphan Denys
jumpstart.
4	Le Bas Rage 6b	wall	Frédéric Buc
5	Détour Réussi 6a	overhang	Gilles Cottray
5 bis	La Gym Mène au Dépit 7a	overhang	Gilles Cottray
direct version of red n°5.
6	Bifur'action 6a	overhang / pockets / expo	Gilles Cottray
7	Sous Vent 6a	bidoigt / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
8	Par Foi 6b	wall / pockets / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
9	Rare Ment 5+	arete / traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
high traverse.
9 bis	Le Bis est-ce le Mou? 7a	traverse frtl / pockets / bidoigt	Gilles Cottray
start right as for red n°9, low traverse to the left with pockets above a small boulder and exit in red n°7. NB : still realizable despite a broken hold.
10	Ussy Peur 6c+	overhang / high	Gilles Cottray
11	Ussy tôt Fait 6b+ (6b)	crack / overhang	Gilles Cottray
11 bis	Ussy Cat 7a+	overhang / dyno / expo	Gilles Cottray
climb the crack of red n°11 but exit to the right, by a dynamic move.
12	L'Ussy Faire 6a	wall	Gilles Cottray
12 bis	Les Grands Pas m'Émurent 7a+	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
start at the slab of orange n°12, traverse to the right with vertical holds and exit after a small angle.
13	Le Pro s'talque 6a (6a+)	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
13 bis	L'Âpre s'Tate 7a	traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
start right at the arrow and traverse to the left, using low holds at the angle.
14	La Vidange Heureuse 5+	wall	Gilles Cottray
15	Dose de Sables 5+	slightly overhanging / slopers	Gilles Cottray
16	Grosse Bosse 6b	wall / crimps / mantle	Gilles Cottray
16 bis	Big Brosse 7a	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
slightly lichenous (April 2006).
17	Le Rat Joue 5	traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
18	L'Abbé Résigné 5+	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
18 bis	L'Arbre est Résineux 7a	traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
start at the same point as red n°18, low traverse and exit above a small overhang.
19	Redescente Climatisée 5+	traverse fltr / wall	Gilles Cottray
20	Le Cas Lisse 6a	traverse fltr / slopers	Gilles Cottray
21	P'tit Stress 5	expo	Gilles Cottray
22	Bille Hard 5+	wall / underclings	Gilles Cottray
22 bis	Le Salaire du Labeur 6b	arete / expo	Gilles Cottray
22 ter	Le Ter Miné 5	wall / expo	Gilles Cottray
23	Promenade Déjantée 5+	-	Gilles Cottray
23 bis	Hypopothèse 6c+	traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of orange n°27. Start on the ground and traverse without the holds on the top.
24	Triste S 6c	-	Gilles Cottray
25	L'Écaille Farcie 6b+	-	Gilles Cottray
26	Génération Taupe 6b	traverse	Gilles Cottray
the return traverse is also 6b.
27	Conne Cave 6a	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
28	La Bouche Rit 6b	traverse frtl / wall	Gilles Cottray
28 bis	Carpe et Hyène 7b	traverse fltr / overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart, traverse to the right with high holds and exit in the prow (low traverse of red n°28 ter is 7b+).
28 ter	Sous la Proue 7b+	sitstart / traverse fltr / prow	Gilles Cottray
sitstart as for Carpe et Hyène (red n°28 bis), traverse to the right under the prow and exit in Le Piano Aqueux (red n°29).
29	Le Piano Aqueux 6c	wall / traverse frtl / prow	Gilles Cottray
29 bis	L'Hésitation Transcendentale 7a+	overhang / traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
30	L'Aumône Nourrit 5+	traverse fltr / wall	Gilles Cottray
30 bis	Gras, Vit-on? 7a+	overhang / traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
31	Bombé l'Entorse 5+	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
32	La Diagonale du Filou 6b	wall / traverse frtl	Gilles Cottray
32 bis	L'Effort Mis au Rouge 7a	traverse frtl / arete	Gilles Cottray
33	Le Penchant Final 6b+	wall	Gilles Cottray
33 bis	Le Mûr par Fermentation 7a+	traverse fltr / arete	Gilles Cottray

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