Villeneuve sur Auvers : red TD+ (n^o 3)

Area description
On the N20, take the exit "Etréchy" and go to the East towards Villeneuve-sur-Auvers by following La Route de Saint Fiacre, and then the D148. At the traffic lights at the entrance of the village, turn left at the hairpin bend and follow the road for 500m. Park the car at a small parking lot on the left of the road (ONF barreer with a sign "zone de silence"). Follow the path for 200m to a plateau where the first boulders can be found.

GPS parking lot

• N 48.478185, E 2.243611

1	L'Angle du Désespoir 6a	wall / crimps
	mur à grattons en traversée ascendante vers la droite.
1 bis	Le Triangle Plat 7a	wall / crimps / slopers
	take slopers above the dark marks and exit via the arete on the left.
2	La Traversée Natacha 5+ (6a)	traverse frtl / overhang
	traverse to the right and exit in the overhang.
3	Le Pied dans le Trou 5+ (6a)	wall / crimps
	exit on crimps.
4	La Dalle du Nomade droite 5+	slab
5	Le Dièdre t'entend! 6a	wall / crimps
	without the dihedron.
6	Le Triangle Obtus 5	wall / arete
	mouvement d'équilibre.
7	Le Talon s'pointe 5	traverse frtl
8	Cercopithèque 5+ (6a)	traverse frtl
9	Grattons la Joie 5+	wall / slightly overhanging
9 bis	Doigt dans l'Mur ! 6b	wall / bidoigt
	7a+/7b without the sloper to the right?
10	Le Mur du Vieux 5	wall
11	Gare aux Fesses 5	slightly overhanging
12	Tourneaucoin 5+	traverse frtl
13	Aile de Pigeon 5	wall / crimps
14	Mort aux Nains 5	wall / crimps
	morpho or dyno.
14 bis	Des Prises pour Léane 7b	wall / crimps
	fingery wall in the North face of the Petit Plateau. NB : a foot hold has recently been broken, but the problem is still possible (June 2006).
15	Le Beau Pied Haut 5-	wall / crack
	mur-fissure en épaule.
16	Albane l'a fait 6a+	overhang
	exit via the arete.
16 bis	Gratton Labeur 7a	overhang / crimps / mantle
	start under the roof, traverse to the left and exit via a mantle on the ledge with a small crimp.
17	L'Inversée c'est Tonic 6a	wall / underclings
17 bis	Le Sang qui Bout 7a+	traverse fltr / wall
	start before the angle with a good hole, traverse to the right and exit in red n°17.
18	Le Surplomb Infranchissable 5+	overhang / crimps
	bombé avec une sortie sur réglettes.
19	Calme avant Tempête 5-	wall
	traversée ascendante à droite, puis sortie sur bonnes prises.
20	Le Roc Majeur 6b+	slightly overhanging
	beau dévers technique (parade conseillée).
20 bis	Longue et Dure 6c+ (7a)	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging / expo
	start in the crack of blue n°21 and exit to the right.
21	La Voie des Bosses 5-	slab
	grande dalle engagée.

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