Bleau.info : Drei Zinnen : Topo

thanks to Régis Allayaud & Alexis Allayaud & Eric Allayaud & Georges Allayaud & Jean-Claude Valluet

From Arbonne, follow the D64 in direction of Achères-la-Forêt and park the car 2km after the roundabout, on the left of the road, just after a bend near the motorway. The circuit and the other problems can be found along the small path that begins at the parking lot.


 

Circuit D blue (nº 1)

1 Démarrage à Froid 3+pockets-
***** topo 44a |
2 Le Coup de Starter 4---
***** topo 46a |
3 La Bonne Carburation 4---
***** topo 47a |
4 La 5 sans 4 3+wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 48b |
5 La 5 sans 4 3+--
***** topo 49a |
5 bis- 3+--
***** topo 49b |
6 La Manivelle 4-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 43a |
7 Le Retour de Manivelle 3+slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 43b |
8 La R8 3+slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 42a |
9 Le Diverticule 4+wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 41a |
9 bis- 3+wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 41b |
10 Les Boules Quiès 3+--
***** topo 40a |
11 La Bugatti 4+wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 38a |
11 bis- 4-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 38b |
12 La Niva 3+traverse frtl-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 37a |
13 L'Arrache-Moyeu 3+--
***** topo 35a |
13 bisLe Coup de Kick 3--
***** topo 34b |
13 terLe Grattonoir 3--
topo 34b' |
14 La Route Nationale 3+--
topo 36a |
15 Embraye Sec! 4-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 39a |
16 Montlhéry 4-wall-
 [ 1 photo ] topo 32f |
16 bis- 4wall-
topo 32e |
17 Le Doux Crissement 4slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 32h |
18 Pollution Sonore 4wall / traverse fltr-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 30b |
19 L'Escaloroute 3+wall / expo-
***** topo 29d | top anchor available.
19 bisVol Interdit 4+wall / expo-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 29e | top anchor available
20 La Verdâtre 3+wall-
topo 31b |
20 bis- 3wall / crack-
 [ 1 photo ] topo 31g |
21 La Titine 4-slab / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 52b |
21 bis- 4-slab / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 52c |
22 Le Vin Rouge 3+wall / bidoigt-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 51b |
23 Le Virage à Gauche 3--
***** topo 50a |
23 bisLa Visière 3+--
topo 50b |
24 La Zone de Silence 4---
***** topo 72a |
24 bisLe Dépotoir Interdit 5-wall / mantle-
***** topo 72b |
25 Empattement Large 3+--
***** topo 69d |
25 bis- 3--
***** topo 69c |
26 Le Dépendeur d'Andouilles 4-wall / slab-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 68a |
26 bisUn Souvenir d'O.S. 4wall / traverse fltr / downclimbing-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 68b |
27 L'Enchaînement 4-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 68c |
28 La G.T.S. 4prow / slightly overhanging-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 67a |
29 La Routière 4slab-
***** topo 66a |
29 bisL'Aile Gauche 3+slab / arete-
***** topo 66b |
30 L'Équilibrage 4---
***** topo 65a |
31 La Petite Bosse 3+--
***** topo 64a |
31 bis- 3--
***** topo 64b |
32 Le Retour des Décibels 3+traverse frtl / wall-
topo 63a |
33 Le Bonus 4-wall / arete-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 62a |
34 Le Piston Râleur 4wall-
***** topo 61c |
34 bisLa Bielle Coulée 4+traverse fltr / wall-
topo 61b |
35 Le Vide-Poche 4-expo-
topo 59f |
36 La Marche Arrière 3+slab-
 [ 1 photo ] topo 57f |
37 Le Périphérique 4wall / pockets-
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo 56g |
38 Sympathique Cliquetis 4traverse fltr / wall-
***** topo 56d |
39 La Grande Dalle 3+slab / high-
***** topo 58e | caution: you must go down by the same way! (or abseil or jump to the north boulder...)

 

Outside the circuits

1a- 4wall-
small wall to the right of the sector.
2aDaiquiri 6a (6b)slightly overhanging-
 [ 1 photo ] on a South face, on the right of the sector.
2b- 5-arete / crack-
angle by the left, with the crack.
2c- 5arete-
angle by the left, without the crack.
3aLe Petit Pas d'Pounet 4wall-
on the left of the wall, without the arete.
3bL'Inconnu 5+ (6a)wall-
***** in the center of the wall.
3cPiercing 5-arete-
angle with the "colonnette" right hand. Sitstart is 5a.
3d- 4 (5-)crack-
gully in the center of the wall. Sitstart is 5a.
3e- 4 (5-)crack-
at the right crack. Sitstart is 5a.
3fChapala 6a+traverse frtl-
start at the right angle and exit 1m50 after Piercing.
4a- 4--
left problem.
4b- 2--
right problem.
5aVas-y Tranquille 7atraverse frtlRégis Allayaud
 [ 1 photo ] start completely right and exit via the arete on the left.
5bFloréal 7acrimps / sitstartEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart in a belly with a big crimp and exit directly.
5b'Floréal avec la traversée 7a (7a+)traverse frtlEric Allayaud
start completely right as for Vas-y Tranquille but exit in the belly of Floréal.
5c- 6c (6c+)sitstart-
***** sitstart to the right of Floréal, between the tree and the small boulder (6c+ with the traverse).
5dTequini 4 (5-)wall-
***** right problem on the boulder of Floréal.
5ePunch 6bsitstart-
sitstart in a pit on the East face of the boulder of Floréal.
6aChi Chi 4 (5-)wall-
central problem (exit to the left is easier).
7a- 5-pillar-
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart is possible.
7bLe Secoueur d'Os 6c+ (6c)sitstart / wallRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 3 photos ] sitstart with a jug and exit directly.
8a- 3slab-
completely to the right of the sector.
9a- 3slab-
to the right of the sector.
9bCoco Loco 4wall-
wall with good holds on the right of the sector.
9cMatador 5+arete-
angle by the left, on the right of the sector.
9dSummertime 6a--
***** to the right of the angle of Matador, on the right of the sector.
10a- 3wall-
 [ 1 photo ] small wall on the right and to the top of the sector.
11a- 3slab-
exposed to the East.
11bRooster Booster 6btraverse fltr-
 [ 1 photo ] start at the left angle and exit after the right one.
11cTequila 6awall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] left problem.
11dMargarita / Mauvaise Graine 5-wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] easiest problem to the right of Tequila. Sitstart is 5c.
11eChocolat Chaud 6a+areteYann Bruneau / Pepito
*****  [ 2 photos ] angle to the right of Mauvaise Graine.
11e'Booster / Chocolat Chaud assis 6carete / sitstartPepito
***** to the right of Mauvaise Graine. Sitstart to the right, pass the angle low and exit in the ear hole.
12a- 3pillar-
to be rebrushed.
12b- 5-arete-
sitstart is 6a.
12cGrand Nigaud 6b+--
right problem (start from the ground).
13a- 5wall-
***** to the left of Tourments d'Amour.
13a'- 6cwall-
*****  [ 1 video ] crouching start of n°13a of the topo, to the left of Tourments d'Amour.
13bTourments d'Amour 7awallRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 6 photos ] start just to the left of a small boulder with a pincher for the right hand.
13c- 4arete-
angle to the left of L'Ombre Furtive.
13dL'Ombre Furtive 7a+slopers / bellyRégis Allayaud
 [ 1 photo ] belly on the South face of the boulder of Tourments d'Amour. Start in a pit with an undercling.
14a- 6awall-
on the East face of the boulder to the right of L'Ombre Furtive.
14b- 2slab-
14c- 4wall-
on the North face of the boulder to the right of L'Ombre Furtive.
14d- 5+ (6a)traverse frtl-
on the North face of the boulder to the right of L'Ombre Furtive. Traverse to the left and exit after the angle.
15aAb Irato 7a+overhang / sitstartRégis Allayaud
***** sitstart on the rock.
16a- 3 (4)wall-
on the South face of a boulder to the right of the sector.
17aLe Pas des Ballerines 7atraverse frtlRégis Allayaud
 [ 1 photo ] on the South face of a boulder to the right of the sector.
18aLe Pouvoir des Fleurs 7aprow / overhang / sitstartRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 2 photos ] sitstart in the back as for Malheur à l'Homme Seul and exit to the left via the prow.
18bMalheur à l'Homme Seul 7aoverhang / sitstart / expoRégis Allayaud
 [ 2 photos ] sitstart in the back as for Le Pouvoir des Fleurs and exit to the right.
18c- 5---
 [ 1 photo ] left problem on the face of Mort Intime.
18dMort Intime 7awall / expo / sitstartRégis Allayaud
***** in a corridor, on the east face of the boulder of Le Pouvoir des Fleurs. Sitstart, traverse slightly right to the jug and exit directly.
18e- 5 (5+)arete-
*****  [ 1 photo ] angle to the right of Mort Intime.
19a- 4wall-
in the middle of the left face of the boulder.
19b- 4arete-
sitstart is 6a.
19c- 4wall-
right problem on the South face of the boulder.
20a- 5-wall-
to the right of the tree.
20b- 6atraverse frtl-
on a South face in the slope.
21a- 3--
left problem.
21bNe pas Déranger 5-wall-
vertical problem on a face exposed to the South.
21cLe P'tit Oiseau 5---
former orange problem in the center of a face exposed to the South.
21dXantippe 5arete-
angle by the left.
22a- 3slab-
to the right of the path, on the crest.
22b- 4wall-
on the South face of a boulder to the right of the path, on the crest.
23aLa Solitude du Nettoyeur de Grattons 6atraverse fltrJean-Claude Valluet
*****  [ 12 photos ] to the left of the path, just under the ridge. Traverse to the right and exit before the angle via the big pockets (6b at the angle, 7a+ beyond).
23bLa Solitude du Nettoyeur de Grattons prolongé 7a+traverse fltrRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of the path, just under the ridge. Traverse to the right and exit past the angle, otherwise 6a (JC. Valluet). Update : the exit needs to be brushed (July 2005).
24a- 3 (4)wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart is 4b.
24b- 3 (4)crack-
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart is 4b.
25a- 3arete / slopers-
arête ronde par la gauche avec un bouleau cassé au pied.
25bCocktails 6aslab / crimps-
*****  [ 1 photo ] in the center of the slab, with the crimp left hand; to the left of 50 Déci'Belles
25c50 Déci'Belles 6bslab / slopers-
***** to the left of Cocktails; take a pinch right hand.
25d- 4-prow-
slightly overhanging angle to the left of 50 Déci'Belles.
26a- 6bslopers-
 [ 1 photo ] exit via the slopers on the left; morpho.
26b- 6b+slopers-
 [ 1 photo ] direct exit with slopers (morpho).
26c- 5arete-
 [ 1 photo ] angle by the left, on the boulder above and to the right of Cocoon.
26d- 4arete / slab-
 [ 1 photo ] on the boulder above and to the right of Cocoon.
27a- 3--
on the boulder underneath and to the right of Cocoon.
28aBifurcation 7b (7b+)overhang / sitstartLaurent Avare / Jacky Godoffe
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 7 photos ] 15m to the right of blue n°19. Sitstart to the left of Diversion.
28a'Bifurcation-Diversion combi 7coverhangJacky Godoffe / Laurent Avare
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 photos ] on the boulder n°28 of the topo, 10m to the right of the big boulder with blue n°16; start in Bifurcation, traverse to the right immediately and exit in Diversion
28bDiversion 7bsitstart / overhangJacky Godoffe / Laurent Avare
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 8 photos ] 10m to the right of the big boulder with blue n°16. Sitstart to the right of Bifurcation.
28cInconnu à Cette Adresse 7c+overhang / crack / sitstartManuel Marquès
***** sitstart just to the right of the cave on the left of Cocoon, traverse slightly leftwards and exit up in a crack.
28dLa Fosse aux Oreilles 7b+ (7b)overhang / sitstart / underclingsPierre Gonzales
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart in a cave to the left of Cocoon and exit via the undercling on the right.
28d'La Directe de la Fosse aux Oreilles 7c (7b+)overhang / sitstart / crimpsAlain Denis
*****  [ 4 photos ] sitstart in the pit as for La Fosse aux Oreilles; exit directly on small crimps.
28e- 6bslightly overhanging-
***** sitstart from the stone to the right of Fosse aux Oreilles, on the boulder of Cocoon. Sitstart from the pit is 7a.
28fCocoon 7b+ (7c)areteLaurent Avare / Pierre Gonzales
*****  [ 2 photos ] arete on the backside of the boulder of Diversion and Bifurcation; morpho.
28fCocoon assis 7c+ (7c)arete / sitstartKevin Lopata
***** sitstart of Cocoon, on a arete on the backside of the boulder of Diversion and Bifurcation.
28gCocoon des Sages 6a+arete / expo-
***** right version of Cocoon, with the big hold.
28h- 4wall-
on the Eastern face of the boulder of Cocoon.
29aPoint de Mire 2 (4)slab-
on the North face of the boulder with blue n°18.
29bÉpicurie 6a+ (6b)slightly overhanging / crack / expoGrégoire Clouzeau
 [ 2 photos ] on the North-West angle of the boulder of blue n°19. Start at the angle with a fragile flake, climb the belly with a crack and exit to the left with another one.
29b'Épicurie droite 6c+slightly overhanging / topropeGrégoire Clouzeau
on the North-West angle of the boulder of n°19 bleu. Start at the angle with a fragile flake as for Épicurie but exit to the right above a stone on the ground.
29c- 4--
on the South-East face of the boulder with blue n°19, starting from the stone.
30a- 6a (6a+)wall-
*****  [ 6 photos ] to the left of blue n°18.
31aToit l'Idiot 5 (5+)overhang / sitstart-
***** sitstart to the left of blue n°20.
31c- 5-wall-
former red problem just right of the angle of blue n°20. Sitstart under the roof is 6c/6c+.
31dCul de Sac 6a+ (6b)wall-
***** just left of the pit of Abstine ou Substine, on the South face of the boulder with blue n°20 and blue n°20 bis.
31d"Sustine ou Abstine 7a+roof / sitstartRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 6 photos ] sitstart of Abstine ou Substine, on the South face of the boulder with blue n°20 and blue n°20 bis. Sitstart in the pit with two diagonal crimps, climb the roof diagonally to the left and exit with an undercling (or more left in Cul de Sac). Update : slightly more difficult since a hold broke down (December 2004).
31d'Abstine ou Sustine 6c+slightly overhanging-
*****  [ 1 photo ] direct problem, starting from the ground, on the South face of the boulder of blue n°20.
31eSale Coup debout 6b (6b+)wallPepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] on the boulder of blue n°20. Start at an oblique crack, but turn left in the wall and exit just above the starting point.
31e'Sale Coup 6c+wall / arete / sitstartPepito
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 photos ] on the boulder of blue n°20. Sitstart under the roof, traverse to the right on an oblique crack but turn left in the wall and exit just above the starting point.
31fLe Faux-Cul de Jatte 6b+ (6c)traverse fltr / crack / slopers-
 [ 2 photos ] to the left of blue n°20 bis. Start under the roof, traverse to the right and exit on the other side of the boulder in Désirs Inconscients.
31hCul de Jatte 6b+traverse fltr / crack / slopers-
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the boulder of blue n°20. Start under the roof, traverse to the right on an oblique crack and exit in blue n°20.
31i- 6b (6c)slightly overhanging / traverse frtl / sitstart-
*****  [ 12 photos ] on the boulder of blue n°20. Sitstart in the old red n°21, traverse to the left and exit at the beginning of the ledge (6b) or completely left, near the tree (6c).
31jL'Étoile Rouge 6aslightly overhanging-
*****  [ 1 photo ] former red problem on the boulder of blue n°20.
31j'- 6a (6a+)slightly overhanging-
 [ 2 photos ] on the boulder of blue n°20. Direct problem to the right of old red n°21. Sitstart is 6a+.
31kDésirs Inconscients 7a+slightly overhanging / sitstartRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 3 photos ] in between the crack and n°31j' of the topo. Sitstart to the left of a small rock with a bidoigt for the right hand.
32aLa Mère des Larmes 7a+wall / crimpsGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 11 photos ] behind blue n°16, on the left of Chat Perché.
32a'L'Œil de Moscou (GD) 7ctraverse fltrJean-Pierre Bouvier
***** sitstart at the angle of La Mère des Larmes, low traverse in the face of Chat Perché and exit after the right angle in blue n°16.
32a''L'Œil de Moscou (DG) 8atraverseJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 2 photos ] start in blue n°16, traverse to the left in the face of Chat Perché, pass the angle low and and exit in La Mère des Larmes, using the ascending on its left. NB : it is also possible to pass the angle at the big hod of L'Exterminateur d'Écailles and to exit directly in La Mère des Larmes.
32bL'Exterminateur d'Écailles 6bwall-
*****  [ 13 photos ] to the right of the angle, between La Mer des Larmes and Chat Perché.
32b'La Goulotte de Goulue 5+crack-
direct crack to the right of the angle between La Mer des Larmes and Chat Perché.
32cChat Perché 7b+slightly overhanging / underclings / expoStéphan Denys
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 8 photos ] to the left of blue n°16; start from the ground, to the left of a low rock (just right of a hollow shape in the rock), and exit directly (without the good underclings of the boulder to its right); morpho
32c'Chat Perché droite 6c (7a)slightly overhanging / underclings / expoStéphan Denys
*****  [ 1 photo ] variant of Chat Perché, with the good hold on the right.
32dLes Lauriers de César 7a (6c+)slightly overhanging / underclings / expo-
*****  [ 1 realvideo ] to the right of Chat Perché, on the face of blue n°16. Start to the left of the tree, take two underclings and exit via a mantle slightly right or on the left in the end of Chat Perché.
32d'110 Déci'belles 6c+ (7a)wall / underclings / sitstartRégis Allayaud
***** to the right of Chat Perché. Sitstart to the right of the tree, go diagonally to the left and exit in Les Lauriers de César with an undercling.
32g- 4arete-
angle by the right, to the left of blue n°17.
33aClose Contact 7c (7c+)roof / sitstartLaurent Avare
*****  [ 1 photo ] small roof to the opposite of blue n°16. Sitstart and exit to the left, without the right arete (morpho).
33a'Close Contact droite 7broof / arete / sitstartLaurent Avare
***** small roof to the opposite of blue n°16. Sitstart and exit to the right, with the round arete.
48aLa Peugeot 5+traverse frtl / sitstartJean-Claude Valluet
on the boulder of blue n°4. Sitstart to the right, traverse to the left and exit after the angle.
48c- 6atraverse fltr-
on the South face of the boulder of blue n°4. Traverse to the right and exit after the angle.
51a- 4--
to the left of blue n°22.
52a- 3arete-
angle by the right on the boulder of blue n°21.
52dLe K 7c+traverse frtlJean-Pierre Bouvier
 [ 1 photo ] start on the backside of the boulder and exit in blue n°21, traverse to the left, pass the angle with low holds and exit in the slab of blue n°21.
52d'Le K haut 7a+traverse frtl-
start on the backside of the boulder and exit in blue n°21, traverse to the left, pass the angle with top holds and exit in the slab of blue n°21.
53a- 4wall / traverse frtl / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] on a boulder near the aqueduct, just above Mauvais Esprits. Sitstart in a small overhang, make a short traverse to the left and exit in the wall.
54aMauvais Esprits 7broof / sitstartRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 5 photos ] sitstart on a boulder to the left of blue n°21, above the aqueduct.
55aSi j'Avais Su 6c+slightly overhanging / expoManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] 5m to the left of Forza Italia. Start from the ground with a tridoigts left hand.
55bCross Country 7c+traverse fltr / slopers / expoManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] start in Si j'Avais Su, follow the overhanging arete for 5m and exit in Forza Italia.
55cLes Cocos Veillent 7a+ (7b)slightly overhanging / expoManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] start from the ground as for Forza Italia but exit to the left towards the gully (little tree).
55dForza Italia 7b (7b+)overhang / bidoigt / expoStéphane Brette / Bertrand Lemaire
*****  [ 3 photos ] big overhang 30m right and underneath Désert des Tartares, on the North-West of the sector. Jumpstart on a bidoigt left hand above a pit and exit directly.
55ePlaisir d'Offrir 7aslightly overhanging / expoManuel Marquès
*****  [ 1 photo ] 3m to the right of Forza Italia. Standing start and exit directly above a small boulder (a 6c/6c+ exit via the left arete is also possible).
55fSpirou 6cslightly overhanging / sitstartManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] on the small boulder over the one with Forza Italia. Sitstart under the overhang and exit directly.
55gFantasio 6bslightly overhanging / slopers / sitstartManuel Marquès
 [ 1 photo ] on the small boulder over the one with Forza Italia. Sitstart under the overhang and exit to the left on slopers.
56a- 4-arete-
 [ 1 photo ] left angle, at the start of Autoportrait, on the left of the face of blue n°38.
56bAutoportrait 7a (7a+)traverse fltrSébastien Frigault / Pepito
*****  [ 16 photos ] three faces traverse on the boulder of blue n°37 and blue n°38. Start to the left of a big flake, traverse via blue marks, pass the angle of Beauté Divine over a corridor and exit at the end of the third face with low pockets. Update (May 2006) : the holds have been brushed recently and it is posible to end at the beginning point (this does not modify the difficulty).
56cWanker Ouest 6cdynoJan De Smit / Jonas Bracke
*****  [ 1 photo ] 3m to the left of blue n°38, at the beginning of the traverse of Autoportrait. Dyno to the top from the big underclings.
56e- 4+arete / slopers-
 [ 1 photo ] round angle to the right of blue n°38.
56fBeauté Divine 5+pillar / highPepito
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of blue n°37, in a corridor.
57aBrûlures 6b (6b+)traverse fltr / slopers / mantle-
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the small boulder just left of Multipass. Sitstart on the left, traverse on the ledge with slopers and exit by a mantle at the angle.
57cMultipass 7bslightly overhanging / areteEric Létot
*****  [ 3 realvideos ]  [ 2 photos ] direct start of Matière Grise holding the angle with the left hand.
57dMatière Grise 7cwall / areteJacky Godoffe
*****  [ 8 photos ] on the big boulder to the left of blue n°39, above the aquaduct. Jumpstart from the stone at the center of the wall and exit with the left arete as for Multipass.
57eJour de Chance 7a (6c)arete / slab / expoPhilippe Le Denmat
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 4 photos ] right arete on the boulder of Matière Grise. Start in the pit and climb the right side of the arete on crimps.
58aLe Désert des Tartares 8a (7c+)pillar / expoJean-Pierre Bouvier
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 2 photos ] on the backside of the boulder with blue n°39, near Matière Grise.
58bBataille Aérienne / Le Mur du Son 7a+wall / crimps / expo-
between Papyrus and Le Désert des Tartares, on the backside of blue n°39 (last problem of the blue circuit, above the aquaduct).
58cPapyrus 7a+wall / crimpsPepito
***** to the left of Le Désert des Tartares, on the backside of blue n°39 (last problem of the blue circuit, above the aquaduct). Without left arete (6c otherwise).
58dSortilège 6carete / high-
***** angle with a low start in the pit, just left of Papyrus, on the backside of the boulder of blue n°39.
59aDon't Take the Baquet 7a+sitstart / wall / crimpsPascal Auroy / Eric Le Guelte
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the right of blue n°39. Sitstart 1m left of the arete of Le Rouge et le Noir and exit in the wall without the jug on the right.
59a'Libre Service 6b+ (6c)wall / mantle / sitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] to the right of blue n°39. Sitstart 1m left of the arete of Le Rouge et le Noir as for Don't Take the Baquet, but exit by a mantle using the jug on the right (or more right, at the exit of Le Rouge et le Noir).
59bLe Rouge et le Noir debout 5prow-
former red problem to the left of Folie Douce.
59b'Le Rouge et le Noir 6c (7a)sitstart / areteGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 6 photos ] sitstart of the arete to the left of Take it Easy / Briseur de Rêve (old red arrow to the right of Don't Take the Baquet). Update (march 2006) : the exit by the top of the boulder being very lichenous, it is better to downclimb the wall on the right.
59cFolie Douce 7awall / expoThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of Take it Easy.
59dTake it Easy / Briseur de Rêve 7c (7c+)wallRégis Allayaud / Olivier Lebreton
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 3 photos ] on the backside of blue n°35. Start from a rock for "Take it Easy" and from the ground for "Briseur the Rêve" and exit slightly to the right.
59eNostalgie 6bslopers-
*****  [ 2 photos ] to the left of blue n°35.
59e'Nostalgie assis 7asitstart / crimps / slopersPascal Etienne
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] to the left of blue n°35. Sitstart of Nostalgie. NB : the direct variant without the vertical sloper on the right is 7a+/7b.
60aPierre Réfractaire / Le P'tit Joueur 6carete / sitstartGrégoire Clouzeau
*****  [ 1 photo ] angle by the right on the South face of the boulder to the right of Take it Easy / Briseur de Rêve.
60bJour de Fête 6b+wall-
*****  [ 1 photo ] right problem on the South face of the boulder to the right of Take it Easy / Briseur de Rêve.
61aLes Ailes d'Icare 6c+wall / crimps-
*****  [ 2 photos ] on the backside of blue n°34.
69a- 3wall-
right problem on the South face of the boulder of blue n°25.
69b- 3arete-
left problem on the South face of the boulder of blue n°25.
70a- 3wall-
on the boulder to the South-East of blue n°25.
70b20 Déci'Belles 6b+wall-
***** on the boulder to the South-East of blue n°25.
71a- 3slab-
on the backside of the boulder facing blue n°25.
73aLa Fissure 5crack-
*****  [ 2 photos ] crack with an orange mark along the path, to the opposite and above the boulder of Pantoum.
74aPantoum 7broofRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 13 photos ] left problem in a roof to the left of the path, under the crest, in the direction of the top of the hill until the kilometer marker 162, 20m left and under that one.
74bKilomètre 162 6a+slightly overhanging-
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the right of Pantoum.
74b'Kilomètre 162 assis 6croof / mantle / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 5 photos ] to the right of Pantoum. Sitstart, take a horizontal hold under the roof, then a crimp left hand and a sloper right hand, and exit via a mantle.
74c600 KN 91 6c+slightly overhanging / slopers-
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the right of Kilomètre 162, on the boulder of Pantoum. Direct exit on slopers.
74d- 4wall-
 [ 2 photos ] on the right face of the boulder of Pantoum.
75a- 6csitstart-
 [ 1 photo ] left problem, with a sitstart on the ground, on the South face of the roof of Ordalie. Standing start is 5c.
75b- 4--
 [ 1 photo ] on the South face of the roof of Ordalie, between the crack and the ledge.
75c- 4wall-
 [ 1 photo ] on the South face of the roof of Ordalie, to the right of the ledge.
75d- 4wall-
 [ 1 photo ] on the South face of the roof of Ordalie, in the marbled part of the wall.
75e- 3--
 [ 1 photo ] on the backside of the roof of Ordalie; exit between two small trees.
75g- 5-arete-
 [ 1 photo ] angle on the backside of the roof of Ordalie. Sitstart is 5b.
75h- 2slab-
 [ 1 photo ] slab to the left of the roof of Ordalie.
75i- 5wall / slab-
 [ 1 photo ] wall-slab just left of the roof of Ordalie.
75j- 6b+arete-
*****  [ 1 photo ] angle by the right on the left side of the roof of Ordalie.
75kDiverticule 7a (7a+)overhang / arete / sitstart-
*****  [ 1 photo ] to the left of Ordalie. Sitstart on the right of the arete with the undercling, take a jug right hand and exit by staying right of the arete.
75lOrdalie 7aroof / sitstartEric Allayaud
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 4 photos ] characteristic roof on the North side of the sector, under the boulder of Pantoum. Sitstart under the crack, traverse slightly to the left and exit directly in the roof.
75m- 5roof / crack-
*****  [ 1 photo ] roof with a flared crack just right of Ordalie.
75n- 5roof-
 [ 1 photo ] to the right of the crack, in the roof of Ordalie.
75oSans Abri 7aroof / sitstart / traverse fltrRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 1 photo ] sitstart under the crack, traverse slightly to the left, go up in the roof as for Ordalie, but traverse on the ledge and exit completely to the right, near a small tree.
75pRêveries Solitaires 7a+traverse frtl / sitstartRégis Allayaud
*****  [ 2 photos ] underneath the big roof. Sitstart under the crack as for Ordalie, traverse to the left and exit past the arete in n°75i of the topo.
76a- 6aroof / sitstart-
in the North side of the sector. Sitstart in the roof on the boulder to the South of Tribal Traquenard.
76b- 5+--
 [ 1 photo ] in the North side of the sector, in the center of the face of the boulder to the South of Tribal Traquenard.
76c- 4 (5-)arete-
 [ 1 photo ] in the North side of the sector. Angle by the right on the boulder to the South of Tribal Traquenard.
76dLe P'tit Réta 3arete / mantle-
 [ 1 photo ] in the North side of the sector. Angle by the left on the boulder to the South of Tribal Traquenard.
76e- 4--
in the North side of the sector, on the boulder to the South of Tribal Traquenard. 5a by a diagonal to the left.
77aÉchappement Libre 3slab-
on the North side of the sector, on the boulder of Tribal Traquenard. Right problem, diagonally to the right.
77bComici-Dimai 3slab-
on the North side of the sector, just right of Tribal Traquenard. Start as for Échappement Libre but exit directly.
77cTribal Traquenard 4 (3)slab-
 [ 3 photos ] direct slab on the North side of the sector.
77dSolleder-Lettenbauer 3slab-
on the North side of the sector, just left of Tribal Traquenard, with a a direct exit.
77e- 4slab-
on the North side of the sector, to the left of Tribal Traquenard. Start as for Solleder-Lettenbauer, but exit diagonally to the left.
77f- 5-slab-
on the North side of the sector. Left problem on the face of Tribal Traquenard.
77g- 6bprow-
 [ 1 photo ] on the North side of the sector. Evident prow on the boulder Tribal Traquenard. Sitsaron the North side of the sector, t is 6c.
77h- 5-arete-
 [ 1 photo ] on the North side of the sector. Angle by the left, on the backside of the boulder of Tribal Traquenard.
77i- 5-slightly overhanging-
on the North side of the sector, on the backside of the boulder of Tribal Traquenard.
77j- 4pockets-
on the North side of the sector, on the backside of the boulder of Tribal Traquenard. Standing start or sitstart with the jug.
77k- 6adyno-
on the North side of the sector. Double dyno on the backside of the boulder of Tribal Traquenard.
77l- 6btraverse frtl-
on the North side of the sector, on the backside of the boulder of Tribal Traquenard. Start with the right angle, low traverse up to n°77j of the topo and exit to the left with top holds.
78aLa Bretelle de gauche 3-overhang / slabJean-Claude Valluet
 [ 3 photos ] left problem on a big boulder slightly underneath the one with Tribal Traquenard.
78bLa Voie Centrale 3overhang / slabJean-Claude Valluet
 [ 3 photos ] central problem on a big boulder slightly underneath the one with Tribal Traquenard.
78cLa Bretelle de droite 4overhang / slabJean-Claude Valluet
 [ 3 photos ] right problem on a big boulder slightly underneath the one with Tribal Traquenard.
79aDaffy Duck 5-roof / sitstartJean-Claude Valluet
 [ 1 photo ] sitstart of a roof to the left of Tribal Traquenard, uphill towards Pur Jus.
80aSang Pour Cent 7a+wall / crimps / dynoChristian Roumégoux
*****  [ 2 photos ] uphill, 30m to the left of the boulder of Tribal Traquenard. Start to the left of Pur Jus with a crimp left hand and dyno to a hollow hold.
80bPur Jus 7a+wallThierry Guéguen
 [ 2 photos ] uphill, 30m to the left of the boulder of Tribal Traquenard. Problem to the right of Sang Pour Cent.

 

Outside the topo

Le Youki 7cslightly overhanging / expo / sitstartJean-Baptiste Jourjon
*****  [ 6 photos ] to the right of Épicuri, on the big boulder of blue n°19. Sitstart with two good underclings and exit above a small boulder.

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