Coquibus Longs Vaux    

  • Author: Jan Gorrebeeck
  • Author: Jan Gorrebeeck
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet
  • Author: Jean-Claude Valluet

The Long Vaux area consists of several small sectors, most of them above the Chemin des Longs Vaux, the most important one after 300 to 600 meters (with the boulder of Fata Morgana). Another sector can be attained by turning right after a flat stone on the flat, 100m from the parking lot.
Access: from Paris, take the bypass of Milly-la-Forêt and turn left at "La Croix St-Antoine" before the traffic lights. Follow the non-asphalted road for 1km to the parking lot of La Gorge à Véron.

A

À Préhension 7c+ 7c Christian Roumégoux roof, sitstart
À Vaux l'Eau 7a 6c+ Eric Allayaud slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart
Adréna Line 6c Thierry Guéguen arete, expo
Adréna Line (direct) 8a Tony Fouchereau arete, dyno, expo
Almost Almost There 5+ Jason Kester arete, slopers
Almost There 6c Jason Kester arete, slopers
Angama (Fata i Helvete en traversée) 8c Daï Koyamada traverse fltr, overhang, dyno

B

Bande de Chiffes Molles 7a+ 7a Tony Fouchereau, François-Xavier Joubert, Cédric Chatagnon slightly overhanging, crimps, sitstart
Bande de Chiffes Molles (direct) 7b 7a+ Laurent Vigouroux, Cédric Chatagnon slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart
Belle de Jour 7c 7b+ Tony Fouchereau roof
Belle de Nuit 8a Pascal Thomas roof
Boumfer 7a+ Andrej Bolán overhang, crimps, sitstart

C

Compression 7b+ 7b Julien Nadiras overhang, slopers, sitstart
Compression (gauche) 7a+ Pierre Délas overhang, slopers, arete

D

Décompression 7a traverse frtl, sitstart
Déimos 7a Alain Denis overhang, sitstart
Descends ta Mère 7a Frédéric Buc traverse frtl, crack
Doris 7a+ Gérald Coste, Neil Hart, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, roof, prow

E

e-Ball 7b Gérald Coste, François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau dihedral, slightly overhanging, expo
Épaule et Jeté 7a Frédéric Buc dyno, overhang, arete

F

Fata i Helvete 8b Daï Koyamada overhang
Fata Morgana 8a Christophe Laumone overhang, dyno
Fata Morgana (assis) 8b Sébastien Frigault sitstart, overhang
Fata Morgana (départ bas) 8a+ Daï Koyamada overhang, dyno
Fourmiz 7a+ 7b Thierry Guéguen roof, underclings

H

Holé 7a+ Christian Roumégoux overhang, dyno, mantle

I

i-Ball 7a Gérald Coste, François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau slightly overhanging, slab, expo

J

Je le Vaux Bien 7a Eric Allayaud arete
Jour d'Hiver 7b+ 7c arete
Jour de Mouillard 7b Yano Salaün overhang, sitstart

L

L'Arête de Phobos Moon 6c 6c+ Sébastien Frigault wall, crack, arete
L'Arête du Container 6c prow, sitstart
L'Arête du Container (gauche) 6b prow, sitstart
La Balade de Nemo 7a 7a+ Tony Fouchereau traverse fltr
La Cordilière des Andes 7b+ François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau arete, slightly overhanging, sitstart
La Grande Crémaillère 6b Philippe Le Denmat arete, high
La Nuit 7c 7b+ Alain Denis roof
La Petite Crémaillère 5 Philippe Le Denmat wall
Le Bout du Gland 6c 7a Cédric Chatagnon, François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau overhang, sitstart
Le Croc 7b 7b+ Arnaud Ceintre slightly overhanging
Le Dièdre Fou 6b Philippe Le Denmat dihedral
Le Diktat du Hamac 7a+ Frédéric Buc sitstart, roof, slopers
Le Jour 7c+ 7c Alain Denis roof
Le Jour et la Nuit 7c+ Arnaud Ceintre roof
Le Mur de la Cordilière des Andes 6b+ 6c+ François-Xavier Joubert, Tony Fouchereau, Laurent Vigouroux wall, crimps
Le Poisson Chirurgien 6b 6b+ Neil Hart, Tony Fouchereau prow, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Le Poisson Clown 6b+ Gérald Coste, Neil Hart, Tony Fouchereau arete, slightly overhanging
Le Réta du Hamac 6b Frédéric Buc mantle, sitstart
Les Assis 7a Alain Denis overhang, mantle, sitstart
Long Jour de Mouillard 7b+ Yano Salaün traverse frtl, overhang
Los Banditos 7c+ 7c Sébastien Frigault, Julien Nadiras, Olivier Lebreton arete, slopers

M

Moule à Gaufres 6c+ Eric Allayaud overhang

P

P'tit Dévers 6b Alain Denis slightly overhanging
Pente Douce 7a+ Alain Denis arete, slightly overhanging, sitstart
Phobos Moon 7c 7c+ Kees Mak wall, dyno
Psychotrope 7a 7a+ Jérôme Chaput wall, slightly overhanging, expo

Q

Quand Vous Voulez pour le Test 7a Tony Fouchereau, François-Xavier Joubert, Laurent Vigouroux slab, slopers, crimps

S

Satan i Helvete 8b+ David Graham overhang
Satan i Helvete (assis) P Sébastien Frigault sitstart, overhang

T

Tension Inversée 7a Frédéric Buc sitstart
Tonnerre de Brest 7b Thierry Guéguen crack, high
Travers de Porc 6c+ Frédéric Buc traverse fltr

Z

Zone Crépusculaire 7a+ Tony Fouchereau, Laurent Vigouroux, Cédric Chatagnon slightly overhanging, traverse frtl, wall

-

- 7c Alain Denis overhang, sitstart
- 7b Alain Denis arete, sitstart, slopers
- 6c Eric Allayaud wall
- 6a Frédéric Buc sitstart