Montrouget Est (Sensitive biological reserve)    

  • Author: Thierry Guéguen

Coquibus is a particular and very sensitive part of the forest which must be treated with the greatest respect by visitors. Its status as a biological reserve allows you to climb there but this could one day be called into question due to too many visitors or irresponsible behavior. We ask climbers to limit their presence or otherwise their impact in the different areas of Coquibus as much as possible. In particular, do not go in groups, do not climb after sunset and do not use electrical devices (drones, fans, radios, etc.). Reduce chalk to the strict minimum, erase all traces of your passage and finally do not brush new boulders. Avoid leaving the paths and keep your dog on a leash from April to July.

Please read our ethics page.
On the road from Courances to Arbonne, leave your car at the first parking to the right when entering the Bois du Coquibus. Take Le Chemin de la Ferme du Montrouget, turn left till the Chemin des Arcades, and continue on a small path to the South between Montrouget and point "97" on the IGN map, with Figure de Style. The main sector is 150m away (with an evident "big nose"), before reaching Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne.
Other access: from the next parking, take the Chemin des Côtes de de Courances (parcelle 37), cross the Chemin des Arcades (white markings), turn right on the GR 11 (Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne). The sector is 150m to the right.

A

Au Pied Levé 6c+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray sitstart, traverse fltr, belly

B

Bonne Mine 6a+ Frédéric Buc arete

C

Calaveras 6a 6b wall
Cham'Adore 6a ⋅∴⋅ crack
Cham'Adore (assis) 7a+ ⋅∴⋅ crack, arete, sitstart
Chihuahua 6b 6c David Evrard, Stéphan Denys, Olivier Lebreton traverse frtl, sitstart
Crack Liner 7a Joris Robyn crack, slightly overhanging, sitstart

D

Dichotomie 6c Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall, crimps

F

Face et Scie 6b Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray wall
Faut Pas Poucer 6b Frédéric Buc wall
Fécondité 6c 6b Alexis Etienne, Pascal Etienne wall
Figure de Style 7b Jérôme Ceccaldi sitstart, roof
Final Fantasy 6c+ Frédéric Buc arete, sitstart
Final Fantasy (direct) 7b+ 7b GJou arete, dyno, sitstart
Fraîcheur d'Été 7b GJou roof, sitstart

G

Gibbon de Paris 7b Frédéric Buc roof, traverse fltr, crack
Granitique 8a 8a+ GJou prow
Grottesque 7a+ Frédéric Buc roof, crack

H

High Liner 7b+ 7c Gilles Cottray overhang, sitstart

J

Jet de Lame 6a+ Frédéric Buc, Gilles Cottray sitstart, wall

L

L'Angle Grottesque 6a Frédéric Buc arete
L'Angluée 7a Frédéric Buc prow, slightly overhanging
L'Angluée (assis) 7b+ GJou prow, sitstart
L'Angluée (direct) 7a+ 7b arete, dyno
L'Arête des Pavés 6a Pascal Etienne, Pepito arete
L'Arête du Bouleau 6a+ Frédéric Buc arete, underclings, mantle
L'Arête du Bouleau (assis) 6c Frédéric Buc arete, sitstart
La Dalle Gluante 5 Frédéric Buc slab
La Fissure du Bouleau 5 5+ wall, crack
La Raie Formée 7a Frédéric Buc crack
La Raie Formée (assis) 7c Olivier Lebreton arete, sitstart
Le Nez Faste 6b+ 6c Frédéric Buc wall
Le Sale Bouleau 6c+ 7a Pascal Etienne wall, crimps, slopers
Le Sale Bouleau (assis) 7a 7a+ wall, crimps, sitstart
Le Smile 7a+ Thierry Guéguen slightly overhanging, mantle, sitstart
Lèvre de Feu 6b+ Frédéric Buc sitstart, crack, wall

P

Pas de Baggy Baggy 6c Frédéric Buc sitstart, arete
Pas Vu Pas Pris 7b+ ⋅∴⋅ roof, traverse fltr
Pinder 7c 7b+ GJou roof, prow, sitstart
Plastique Fantastik 7b+ Thierry Guéguen traverse fltr, slopers
Plastique Fantastik (retour-aller) 7c+ 8a Jean-Christophe Guibout traverse, slopers
Plat Plat Plat 7c 7b+ GJou prow, sitstart

R

Récidive 7b+ GJou prow
Récidive (assis) 8a GJou prow, sitstart
Remontée Gastrique 6b+ Frédéric Buc sitstart, slightly overhanging

S

Silicon Carne 7b Andrej Bolán traverse fltr, crimps

T

Tenochtitlan 6c+ 7a David Evrard slightly overhanging, expo
Toipéro 6c Jimmy Zwiebel prow, roof, sitstart
Toit Toit Toit 7b 7a+ GJou roof, sitstart
Tzompantli 6c David Evrard, Stéphan Denys wall, expo

V

Veracruz 5+ 6a David Evrard, Stéphan Denys, Olivier Lebreton wall, sitstart

Y

Yucatan 6b David Evrard, Stéphan Denys, Olivier Lebreton wall, sitstart

Z

Zavata 7c+ GJou roof, prow
Zone Interdite 7c+ Jérôme Ceccaldi sitstart, roof, crack

-

- 6a Frédéric Buc slopers, mantle
- 5- slab
- 5- Frédéric Buc wall
- 4+ Frédéric Buc wall, slab
- 4+ wall
- 4- wall, slab
- 3+ crack