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Coquibus Arcades : straight-ups 7a and harder

1 to 18 of 18 boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 25 straight-ups + traverses7 traverses
Topos: Coquibus Arcades Ouest (Frédéric Buc), Blocs perdus du Coquibus

Ligne de Fuite 6c+ (7a)overhang / sitstartThierry Guéguen
***** right problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and exit by the ledge on the right.
Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau.
Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.

See also: Ligne de Faîte 7a+, Point à la Ligne 7b+

Le Jardin des Nains 7aoverhang / mantle / sitstartFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº18; on the North face of a boulder on the crest. Low sitstart in the overhang, climb the bowl with a crack right and hand and exit in the slab above.

Sinus-X 7aprow / slightly overhangingFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 4 photos ] topo nº40; standing start of the evident prow on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  Hypo-Tonus 7b, Sinus-X assis 7b (7a+)

Arête à Héros 7a (7a+)arete / expoFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nº20; evident arete on the North face of a boulder underneath the crest. Jumpstart (without several crash-pads!) and climb the round arete directly.

Ligne de Faîte 7a+overhang / slopers / sitstartThierry Guéguen
***** central problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and exit directly.
Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau.
Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.

See also: Ligne de Fuite 6c+ (7a), Point à la Ligne 7b+

Tête d'Enclume 7a+prow / mantle / expoThierry Guéguen
***** just right of Ligne de Faîte.
Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau.
Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.

See also: Spéciale Dédicace 7a+ (7b), Tête d'Enclume assis 7b (7a+)

Yahtzee droite 7a+prow / slopersChristian Merimeche / David Evrard
***** in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Standing start, climb the wall to the right of the prow of Yahtzee, come back to that one at the jug and exit just above.
See also: Yahtzee droite assis 7c (7b+), Yahtzee 7c+ (7c), Yahtzee assis 8a

Bernard le Mythe 7a+ (7b)slightly overhanging / sitstartIrénée Bernard
*****  [ 1 video ]  [ 1 photo ] topo nº33; on the North face of a boulder in the South-East of the sector. Sitstart with a pocker without the back boulder and exit just above.

Sinus-X assis 7b (7a+)prow / slightly overhanging / sitstartFrédéric Buc
***** topo nº40; on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart under the prow and exit in Sinus-X.
See also:  [ 4 photos ]  Sinus-X 7a,  [ 1 photo ]  Hypo-Tonus 7b

Tête d'Enclume assis 7b (7a+)prow / expo / sitstartGérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of Tête d'Enclume, on the 5m high prow to the right of Ligne de Faîte.
See also: Tête d'Enclume 7a+, Spéciale Dédicace 7a+ (7b)

Hypo-Tonus 7bprow / slightly overhanging / sitstartFrédéric Buc
*****  [ 1 photo ] topo nº40b; on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart to the right as for Court-Rage, traverse to the left and exit by the prow of Sinus-X.
See also:  [ 4 photos ]  Sinus-X 7a, Sinus-X assis 7b (7a+)

Point à la Ligne 7b+overhang / slopers / sitstartThierry Guéguen
***** left problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and then to the left on slopers and exit near a jug.
Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau.
Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.

See also: Ligne de Fuite 6c+ (7a), Ligne de Faîte 7a+

Yahtzee droite assis 7c (7b+)prow / slopers / sitstartSébastien Frigault / Pascal Thomas
in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart on the left stone, climb the wall to the right of the prow of Yahtzee, come back to that one at the jug and exit just above.
See also: Yahtzee droite 7a+, Yahtzee 7c+ (7c), Yahtzee assis 8a

La Cage aux Fauves 7carete / expoChristian Roumégoux
***** 100m to the West of the main area, 10m to the left of Le Carrefour aux Fauves. Sitstart is 7c+.
Access : traverse under the "Arcades" and turn right at Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne till Le Carrefour aux Fauves. (GPS: N48.423620 E2.498940)


Huecoco 7cprow / slightly overhanging / sitstartThierry Guéguen
***** in a slug-like prow 80m to the North-West of Sinus-X. Sitstart to the left as for LŒil de la Limace but continue to traverse under the prow and exit completely right.
See also: LŒil de la Limace 6c (7a)

Yahtzee 7c+ (7c)prow / slopers / dynoYano Salaün
***** direct prow (without the holds on the right) between the aqueduct and the classical sector; morpho.
Access : from the crossing of the aqueduct, follow Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne for 100m and go up in the small valley on the left. The boulder is in the middle of the slope, to the right of this valley.

See also: Yahtzee droite 7a+, Yahtzee droite assis 7c (7b+), Yahtzee assis 8a

Yahtzee assis 8aprow / slopers / sitstartSébastien Frigault
***** in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart on the left stone and exit by the direct prow Yahtzee (without the holds on the right).
See also: Yahtzee droite 7a+, Yahtzee droite assis 7c (7b+), Yahtzee 7c+ (7c)

La Galinette Cendrée 8bsitstart / overhang / mantleChristian Roumégoux
***** 65m to the West of La Cage aux Fauves. Sitstart to the left in a 50° overhang and exit to the right via a mantle.
Access : take Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne till Le Carrefour aux Fauves and go up the slope to the right. (GPS: N48.423760 E2.498080)


1 to 18 of 18 boulders

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