This sector, mainly exposed to the North but quick-drying in its upper part, gathers 50 problems, most opened by Frédéric Buc. Access : on the road from Courances to Arbonne, park the car at the aqueduct. Follow the underground part of that one by a path, up to the stairs of Montrouget. Go around the hill by the right (white marks) and arrive at Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne near Le Carrefour des Fauves. The boulders are on the East of that crossing, all in the plot 7, except Sinus-X which is located in the plot 6.
| 1 | Colossus 6b | belly / mantle / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    sur un gros bloc situé au dessus du Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Partir assis et remonter le mur au départ de la traversée de Spatule-Action. |
| 1b | Spatule-Action 7a | traverse fltr / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart in Colossus, traverse to the right and exit by the slab of Griffondor. |
| 2 | Manucure 5 | wall / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
| on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart and climb the wall at the beginning of the traverse of Spatule-Action. |
| 3 | Manufacture 5 | wall / slopers / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
| on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart and exit on slopers, in the middle of the traverse of Spatule-Action, to the left of a jug. |
| 4 | Prise aux Niais 5- | pockets / mantle / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
| on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne, in the middle of the traverse of Spatule-Action. Sitstart, take a jug and exit by a mantle. |
| 5 | Le G Ko 6c+ | underclings / slopers / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart in the right face of the traverse of Spatule-Action and exit on slopers without the left jug. |
| 6 | Ouech-Ouech 6b+ | mantle / slopers / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart in the right face of the traverse of Spatule-Action and exit on slopers without the right jug. |
| 7 | Griffondor 6a+ | wall / crimps / mantle | Frédéric Buc |
exit of the traverse of Spatule-Action, on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart, climb a slab and exit by a direct mantle, without the left jug. |
| 7b | Vire Rage à Plat 7a | traverse frtl / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart in Griffondor, make the back traverse of Spatule-Action and exit in the wall of Durillon. NB : 6b/c starting from Le G-Ko. |
| 8 | Durillon 6b | wall / crimps / sitstart | Gilles Cottray |
    on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart on the left face of the traverse of Spatule-Action; morpho. |
| 9 | Quatre Air Pillar 4 (4+) | arete / slopers | Frédéric Buc |
left problem on the East face of the boulder after Spatule-Action. |
| 10 | Beauty Free 6b | wall | Frédéric Buc |
    direct problem on the East face of the boulder after Spatule-Action. |
| 11 | Old Beauty 6c+ | wall / arete | Frédéric Buc |
right problem on the East face of the boulder after Spatule-Action. Climb the right arete and exit with the pocket of Beauty Free. |
| 12 | L'Évitation 6b | wall / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on the West face of the boulder after Spatule-Action. Sitstart to the right and exit diagonally. |
| 13 | CSP 6c (6c+) | prow / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
on the West face of the boulder after Spatule-Action. Sitstart and climb the prow directly. |
| 14 | Oblication 6a | overhang / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    right problem on the boulder above CSP, on the crest. Sitstart with a jg right hand (a 6b variant is possible without). |
| 15 | Pas-Sable 5 | arete / slopers / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
left problem on the boulder above CSP, on the crest. |
| 16 | La Tordue 6c (6c+) | slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
| on the right arete of the boulder of Jardin des Nains, on the crest. Sitstart with a vertical hold right hand and a sloper left hand. |
| 17 | Serpentar 6a+ | arete / slopers / expo | Frédéric Buc |
arete with an exit on slopers to the opposite of Le Jardin des Nains. |
| 18 | Le Jardin des Nains 7a | overhang / mantle / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on the North face of a boulder on the crest. Low sitstart in the overhang, climb the bowl with a crack right and hand and exit in the slab above. |
| 19 | Too Little 7a | traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    sitstart in the overhang, traverse to the right up to a good hold and exit by the arete to the left of the one of Arête à Héros. |
| 19b | Little Hero 7c (7c+) | traverse fltr / mantle / slopers | Tony Fouchereau |
| sitstart in the overhang, traverse to the right on slopers as for Too Little but continue and exit by the arete of Arête à Héros (morpho). |
| 20 | Arête à Héros 7a (7a+) | arete / expo | Frédéric Buc |
    evident arete on the North face of a boulder underneath the crest. Jumpstart (without several crash-pads!) and climb the round arete directly. |
| 21 | Chauffe Pieds 3+ | arete | Frédéric Buc |
arete on the South face of the slab of Crouic-Crouic. |
| 22 | Pompieds 5+ | wall | Frédéric Buc |
wall without the arete on the South face of the slab of Crouic-Crouic. |
| 23 | Atti-Rance 5+ (6a) | arete / expo / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
South-West arete on the slab of Crouic-Crouic. Sitstart to the left and exit in the left face. |
| 24 | Beauté Fatale 6b | arete / expo / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
arete on the West face of the slab of Crouic-Crouic. Sitstart and climb the arete right hand. |
| 25 | Gnagnagna 6a | slightly overhanging / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
on the North face of the boulder underneath the traverse of Mules-Action. Sitstart and climb the arete. |
| 26 | La Décote d'Irène 6c (6c+) | arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
on the North face of the boulder underneath the traverse of Mules-Action. Sitstart with the feet on the small boulder (without the right one) and exit above. |
| 27 | Rhomboïde 5 | wall / crack | Frédéric Buc |
direct problem without the crack, to the right of Crouic-Crouic, to the opposite of the exit of Les Mules-Action. 4b with the crack. |
| 28 | Poussée Initiale 4+ | slab | Frédéric Buc |
| direct problem without the arete to the opposite of the start of the traverse of Les Mules-Action. |
| 29 | Bœuf-Carotte 6a (6a+) | slightly overhanging / mantle | Frédéric Buc |
end of the traverse of Les Mules-Action, in a corridor. |
| 30 | Les Mules-Action 7b | traverse frtl / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on the West face of a long boulder. Sitstart to the right in the corridor, traverse on a ledge and exit by a mantle in Bœuf-Carotte, just after a crack. |
| 31 | Crouic Crouic 6c+ | slab | Frédéric Buc |
to the opposite of the traverse of Les Mules-Action. Sitstart in the corridor with the feet on a small boulder and the arete right hand, and exit just above. |
| 32 | Sarkophage 3+ | slab / arete | Frédéric Buc |
| arete left hand to the opposite of the start of the traverse of Les Mules-Action. |
| 33 | Bernard le Mythe 7a+ (7b) | slightly overhanging / sitstart | Irénée Bernard |
    on the North face of a boulder in the South-East of the sector. Sitstart with a pocker without the back boulder and exit just above. |
| 34 | Le Rat-Battu 6b+ | arete / slopers / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
to the left of Bernard le Mythe. Sitstart and climb the round arete on slopers. |
| 35 | La Frustrée 5 (5+) | arete / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
on th eboulder above the traverse of Truc-Muche, in the East of the sector. Sitstart and climb the left arete. |
| 36 | Machin 5- (5) | wall / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    sitstart without the right boulder at the beginning of the traverse of Truc-Muche, in the East of the sector. |
| 37 | Truc 6a (6a+) | wall / crack / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
in the East of the sector. Sitstart and climb the exit crack of the traverse of Truc-Muche. |
| 37b | Truc-Muche 6c+ | traverse frtl / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
in the East of the sector. Sitstart, traverse to the left and exit by the crack of Truc. |
| 38 | Mi-Tard 5 | slightly overhanging / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
sitstart in the middle of the traverse of Truc-Muche, in the East of the sector. |
| 39 | Cunédiforme 6a | arete / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart to the left of the prow of Sinus-X and exit with the right arete at the top of that one. |
| 40 | Sinus-X 7a | prow / slightly overhanging | Frédéric Buc |
    standing start of the evident prow on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. |
| 40 | Sinus-X assis 7b (7a+) | prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart under the prow and exit in Sinus-X. |
| 40b | Hypo-Tonus 7b | prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart to the right as for Court-Rage, traverse to the left and exit by the prow of Sinus-X. |
| 41 | Court-Rage 6c | slightly overhanging / sitstart | Frédéric Buc |
    on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart to the right of the prow of Sinus-X and exit directly just above. |
|
| | Outside the topo |
| La Cage aux Fauves 7c | arete / expo | Christian Roumégoux |
    100m to the West of the main area, 10m to the left of Le Carrefour aux Fauves. Sitstart is 7c+. Access : traverse under the "Arcades" and turn right at Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne till Le Carrefour aux Fauves. (GPS: N48.423620 E2.498940) |
| La Galinette Cendrée 8b | sitstart / overhang / mantle | Christian Roumégoux |
    65m to the West of La Cage aux Fauves. Sitstart to the left in a 50° overhang and exit to the right via a mantle. Access : take Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne till Le Carrefour aux Fauves and go up the slope to the right. (GPS: N48.423760 E2.498080) |
| Yahtzee droite 7a+ | prow / slopers | Christian Merimeche / David Evrard |
    in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Standing start, climb the wall to the right of the prow of Yahtzee, come back to that one at the jug and exit just above. |
| Yahtzee droite assis 7c (7b+) | prow / slopers / sitstart | Sébastien Frigault / Pascal Thomas |
| in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart on the left stone, climb the wall to the right of the prow of Yahtzee, come back to that one at the jug and exit just above. |
| Yahtzee 7c+ (7c) | prow / slopers / dyno | Yano Salaün |
    direct prow (without the holds on the right) between the aqueduct and the classical sector; morpho. Access : from the crossing of the aqueduct, follow Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne for 100m and go up in the small valley on the left. The boulder is in the middle of the slope, to the right of this valley. |
| Yahtzee assis 8a | prow / slopers / sitstart | Sébastien Frigault |
    in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart on the left stone and exit by the direct prow Yahtzee (without the holds on the right). |
| Tête d'Enclume 7a+ | prow / mantle / expo | Thierry Guéguen |
    just right of Ligne de Faîte. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg. |
| Spéciale Dédicace 7a+ (7b) | prow / expo / traverse | Thierry Guéguen |
| start at the end of the stone at the bottom of Tête d'Enclume, traverse and exit in this latter problem. |
| Tête d'Enclume assis 7b (7a+) | prow / expo / sitstart | Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau |
| sitstart of Tête d'Enclume, on the 5m high prow to the right of Ligne de Faîte. |
| Le Toit Perché 6b+ | roof / sitstart | Thierry Guéguen |
| small roof 40m to the East of Ligne de Faîte. Sitstart to the right, traverse under the roof and exit to the left of the overhang. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg. |
| Ligne de Fuite 6c+ (7a) | overhang / sitstart | Thierry Guéguen |
    right problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and exit by the ledge on the right. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg. |
| Ligne de Faîte 7a+ | overhang / slopers / sitstart | Thierry Guéguen |
    central problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and exit directly. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg. |
| Point à la Ligne 7b+ | overhang / slopers / sitstart | Thierry Guéguen |
    left problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and then to the left on slopers and exit near a jug. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg. |
| L'Œil de la Limace 6c (7a) | slightly overhanging / traverse fltr | Thierry Guéguen |
    in a slug-like prow 80m to the North-West of Sinus-X. Sitstart to the left as for Huecoco, traverse slightly right and exit with the "eye" of the slug. |
| Huecoco 7c | prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart | Thierry Guéguen |
    in a slug-like prow 80m to the North-West of Sinus-X. Sitstart to the left as for LŒil de la Limace but continue to traverse under the prow and exit completely right. |