Bleau.info : Coquibus Arcades : Topo

thanks to Frédéric Buc

This sector, mainly exposed to the North but quick-drying in its upper part, gathers 50 problems, most opened by Frédéric Buc.
Access : on the road from Courances to Arbonne, park the car at the aqueduct. Follow the underground part of that one by a path, up to the stairs of Montrouget. Go around the hill by the right (white marks) and arrive at Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne near Le Carrefour des Fauves. The boulders are on the East of that crossing, all in the plot 7, except Sinus-X which is located in the plot 6.

1	Colossus 6b	belly / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sur un gros bloc situé au dessus du Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Partir assis et remonter le mur au départ de la traversée de Spatule-Action.
1b	Spatule-Action 7a	traverse fltr / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart in Colossus, traverse to the right and exit by the slab of Griffondor.
2	Manucure 5	wall / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart and climb the wall at the beginning of the traverse of Spatule-Action.
3	Manufacture 5	wall / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart and exit on slopers, in the middle of the traverse of Spatule-Action, to the left of a jug.
4	Prise aux Niais 5-	pockets / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne, in the middle of the traverse of Spatule-Action. Sitstart, take a jug and exit by a mantle.
5	Le G Ko 6c+	underclings / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart in the right face of the traverse of Spatule-Action and exit on slopers without the left jug.
6	Ouech-Ouech 6b+	mantle / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart in the right face of the traverse of Spatule-Action and exit on slopers without the right jug.
7	Griffondor 6a+	wall / crimps / mantle	Frédéric Buc
exit of the traverse of Spatule-Action, on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart, climb a slab and exit by a direct mantle, without the left jug.
7b	Vire Rage à Plat 7a	traverse frtl / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart in Griffondor, make the back traverse of Spatule-Action and exit in the wall of Durillon. NB : 6b/c starting from Le G-Ko.
8	Durillon 6b	wall / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on a big boulder above Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart on the left face of the traverse of Spatule-Action; morpho.
9	Quatre Air Pillar 4 (4+)	arete / slopers	Frédéric Buc
left problem on the East face of the boulder after Spatule-Action.
10	Beauty Free 6b	wall	Frédéric Buc
direct problem on the East face of the boulder after Spatule-Action.
11	Old Beauty 6c+	wall / arete	Frédéric Buc
right problem on the East face of the boulder after Spatule-Action. Climb the right arete and exit with the pocket of Beauty Free.
12	L'Évitation 6b	wall / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the West face of the boulder after Spatule-Action. Sitstart to the right and exit diagonally.
13	CSP 6c (6c+)	prow / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the West face of the boulder after Spatule-Action. Sitstart and climb the prow directly.
14	Oblication 6a	overhang / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
right problem on the boulder above CSP, on the crest. Sitstart with a jg right hand (a 6b variant is possible without).
15	Pas-Sable 5	arete / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
left problem on the boulder above CSP, on the crest.
16	La Tordue 6c (6c+)	slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the right arete of the boulder of Jardin des Nains, on the crest. Sitstart with a vertical hold right hand and a sloper left hand.
17	Serpentar 6a+	arete / slopers / expo	Frédéric Buc
arete with an exit on slopers to the opposite of Le Jardin des Nains.
18	Le Jardin des Nains 7a	overhang / mantle / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the North face of a boulder on the crest. Low sitstart in the overhang, climb the bowl with a crack right and hand and exit in the slab above.
19	Too Little 7a	traverse fltr / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart in the overhang, traverse to the right up to a good hold and exit by the arete to the left of the one of Arête à Héros.
19b	Little Hero 7c (7c+)	traverse fltr / mantle / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart in the overhang, traverse to the right on slopers as for Too Little but continue and exit by the arete of Arête à Héros (morpho).
20	Arête à Héros 7a (7a+)	arete / expo	Frédéric Buc
evident arete on the North face of a boulder underneath the crest. Jumpstart (without several crash-pads!) and climb the round arete directly.
21	Chauffe Pieds 3+	arete	Frédéric Buc
arete on the South face of the slab of Crouic-Crouic.
22	Pompieds 5+	wall	Frédéric Buc
wall without the arete on the South face of the slab of Crouic-Crouic.
23	Atti-Rance 5+ (6a)	arete / expo / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
South-West arete on the slab of Crouic-Crouic. Sitstart to the left and exit in the left face.
24	Beauté Fatale 6b	arete / expo / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
arete on the West face of the slab of Crouic-Crouic. Sitstart and climb the arete right hand.
25	Gnagnagna 6a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the North face of the boulder underneath the traverse of Mules-Action. Sitstart and climb the arete.
26	La Décote d'Irène 6c (6c+)	arete / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the North face of the boulder underneath the traverse of Mules-Action. Sitstart with the feet on the small boulder (without the right one) and exit above.
27	Rhomboïde 5	wall / crack	Frédéric Buc
direct problem without the crack, to the right of Crouic-Crouic, to the opposite of the exit of Les Mules-Action. 4b with the crack.
28	Poussée Initiale 4+	slab	Frédéric Buc
direct problem without the arete to the opposite of the start of the traverse of Les Mules-Action.
29	Bœuf-Carotte 6a (6a+)	slightly overhanging / mantle	Frédéric Buc
end of the traverse of Les Mules-Action, in a corridor.
30	Les Mules-Action 7b	traverse frtl / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on the West face of a long boulder. Sitstart to the right in the corridor, traverse on a ledge and exit by a mantle in Bœuf-Carotte, just after a crack.
31	Crouic Crouic 6c+	slab	Frédéric Buc
to the opposite of the traverse of Les Mules-Action. Sitstart in the corridor with the feet on a small boulder and the arete right hand, and exit just above.
32	Sarkophage 3+	slab / arete	Frédéric Buc
arete left hand to the opposite of the start of the traverse of Les Mules-Action.
33	Bernard le Mythe 7a+ (7b)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Irénée Bernard
on the North face of a boulder in the South-East of the sector. Sitstart with a pocker without the back boulder and exit just above.
34	Le Rat-Battu 6b+	arete / slopers / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
to the left of Bernard le Mythe. Sitstart and climb the round arete on slopers.
35	La Frustrée 5 (5+)	arete / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on th eboulder above the traverse of Truc-Muche, in the East of the sector. Sitstart and climb the left arete.
36	Machin 5- (5)	wall / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart without the right boulder at the beginning of the traverse of Truc-Muche, in the East of the sector.
37	Truc 6a (6a+)	wall / crack / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
in the East of the sector. Sitstart and climb the exit crack of the traverse of Truc-Muche.
37b	Truc-Muche 6c+	traverse frtl / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
in the East of the sector. Sitstart, traverse to the left and exit by the crack of Truc.
38	Mi-Tard 5	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart in the middle of the traverse of Truc-Muche, in the East of the sector.
39	Cunédiforme 6a	arete / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart to the left of the prow of Sinus-X and exit with the right arete at the top of that one.
40	Sinus-X 7a	prow / slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc
standing start of the evident prow on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne.
40	Sinus-X assis 7b (7a+)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart under the prow and exit in Sinus-X.
40b	Hypo-Tonus 7b	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart to the right as for Court-Rage, traverse to the left and exit by the prow of Sinus-X.
41	Court-Rage 6c	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
on a boulder to the right of Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne. Sitstart to the right of the prow of Sinus-X and exit directly just above.
		Outside the topo
La Cage aux Fauves 7c		arete / expo	Christian Roumégoux
100m to the West of the main area, 10m to the left of Le Carrefour aux Fauves. Sitstart is 7c+. Access : traverse under the "Arcades" and turn right at Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne till Le Carrefour aux Fauves. (GPS: N48.423620 E2.498940)
La Galinette Cendrée 8b		sitstart / overhang / mantle	Christian Roumégoux
65m to the West of La Cage aux Fauves. Sitstart to the left in a 50° overhang and exit to the right via a mantle. Access : take Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne till Le Carrefour aux Fauves and go up the slope to the right. (GPS: N48.423760 E2.498080)
Yahtzee droite 7a+		prow / slopers	Christian Merimeche / David Evrard
in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Standing start, climb the wall to the right of the prow of Yahtzee, come back to that one at the jug and exit just above.
Yahtzee droite assis 7c (7b+)		prow / slopers / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault / Pascal Thomas
in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart on the left stone, climb the wall to the right of the prow of Yahtzee, come back to that one at the jug and exit just above.
Yahtzee 7c+ (7c)		prow / slopers / dyno	Yano Salaün
direct prow (without the holds on the right) between the aqueduct and the classical sector; morpho. Access : from the crossing of the aqueduct, follow Le Chemin de la Roche qui Tourne for 100m and go up in the small valley on the left. The boulder is in the middle of the slope, to the right of this valley.
Yahtzee assis 8a		prow / slopers / sitstart	Sébastien Frigault
in the middle of the slope, in the Eastern part of the sector. Sitstart on the left stone and exit by the direct prow Yahtzee (without the holds on the right).
Tête d'Enclume 7a+		prow / mantle / expo	Thierry Guéguen
just right of Ligne de Faîte. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.
Spéciale Dédicace 7a+ (7b)		prow / expo / traverse	Thierry Guéguen
start at the end of the stone at the bottom of Tête d'Enclume, traverse and exit in this latter problem.
Tête d'Enclume assis 7b (7a+)		prow / expo / sitstart	Gérald Coste / Tony Fouchereau
sitstart of Tête d'Enclume, on the 5m high prow to the right of Ligne de Faîte.
Le Toit Perché 6b+		roof / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
small roof 40m to the East of Ligne de Faîte. Sitstart to the right, traverse under the roof and exit to the left of the overhang. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.
Ligne de Fuite 6c+ (7a)		overhang / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
right problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and exit by the ledge on the right. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.
Ligne de Faîte 7a+		overhang / slopers / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
central problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and exit directly. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.
Point à la Ligne 7b+		overhang / slopers / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
left problem in the overhang to the left of the prow of Tête d'Enclume. Sitstart to the left, traverse under the roof and then to the left on slopers and exit near a jug. Access : from Le Carrefour de la Gorge des Fauves, take a path towards the South leading to hives, and then up the slope to the right up to a characteristic thalweg; the boulder is on its Eastern side, 30m underneath the plateau. Il est également possible, du parking de la Roche qui Tourne, de remonter le Chemin de Coquibus à Courances jusqu'à l'intersection avec le GR 11 et de suivre le sentier qui continue en redescendant sur environ 40m jusqu'au thalweg.
L'Œil de la Limace 6c (7a)		slightly overhanging / traverse fltr	Thierry Guéguen
in a slug-like prow 80m to the North-West of Sinus-X. Sitstart to the left as for Huecoco, traverse slightly right and exit with the "eye" of the slug.
Huecoco 7c		prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
in a slug-like prow 80m to the North-West of Sinus-X. Sitstart to the left as for LŒil de la Limace but continue to traverse under the prow and exit completely right.

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