Bleau.info : Coquibus Auvergne : Topo

thanks to Max & Jean-Claude Valluet & Frédéric Buc & Gilles Cottray

This sector is located on the South-East of the Coquibus area. It is constituted of several groups of boulders around the Chemin de la Mare de l'Auvergne and are accessible from the parking lot of la Feuillardière.

1	Libre Penchée 6c+	pillar	Gilles Cottray
2	Liber bis 6a	wall / slab	Gilles Cottray
to the left of the pillar of Libre Penchée.
3	Aurélien 6a+	prow / slightly overhanging	-
in the western side of the sector.
3a	Aurélien assis 6a+ (6c)	prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
sitstart of the prow of Aurélien.
3b	La Traversée d'Aurélien 6c	traverse fltr	Max
sitstart to the left as for La Dalle d'Aurélien, traverse in the overhang and exit in Aurélien.
3c	Zénophobie 6c	prow / slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc
direct version of Aurélien with a crimp in the right face.
3d	Zénophobie assis 6c+	pillar / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
n°3d of the Aurélien. Sitstart and exit in Zénophobie (direct version of Aurélien with a crimp in the right face).
3e	La Traversée de Zénophobie 7a	traverse fltr / pillar / slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc
variant of La Traversée d'Aurélien by exiting in Zénophobie.
4	La Dalle d'Aurélien 6a	sitstart / slab	-
sitstart to the left of Aurélien and exit in the slab.
4b	Traversée de la Dalle d'Aurélien 6b	traverse frtl / sitstart / slab	-
sitstart in Aurélien, traverse to the left and exit in La Dalle d'Aurélien.
5	Échauffement 1 5	wall / sitstart	-
in the sector Libertaire; two possible exits.
6	Échauffement 2 6a	sitstart	-
in the sector Libertaire.
7	Échauffement 3 6b	sitstart	-
to the opposite of the boulder of Libertaire.
8	Monotoit 7a	roof / sitstart	-
left problem on the boulder of Libertaire. Sitstart in the roof, take a bidoigt and exit via slopers.
9	Tétutéton 6b	roof / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Libertaire. Sitstart and exit in the overhang (morpho).
10	Boîte à Lettres 6a+ (6b)	roof / sitstart	-
on the boulder of Libertaire.
11	Est-ce une Voie? 7a	traverse fltr / roof / sitstart	Max
left problem on the boulder of Libertaire. Sitstart under the exit of Boîte à Lettres and traverse to the right in the roof.
11b	Liaison d'Ange Heureuse 7c+	roof / slopers / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
on the right side of the boulder of Libertaire. Sitstart under the roof as for Liaison Dangereuse but exit to the right. NB : a mini-topo and a video can be seen on prisesurprise.
11b	Liaison Dangereuse 7c	roof / slopers / sitstart	Arnaud Ceintre
on the right side of the boulder of Libertaire. Sitstart under the roof as for Liaison d'Ange Heureuse but exit directly. NB : a mini-topo and a video can be seen on prisesurprise.
12	Libertaire 8a	traverse frtl	Max
start to the backside of the boulder, traverse under the roof, continue to the left and exit before the little boulder
12b	Libertaire par la Boîte à Lettres 7c+	traverse / sitstart	Max
start in Libertaire, go up in Boîte à Lettres, but then traverse horizontally and exit in Libertaire.
12t	Libertaire par Monotoit 7c+	traverse	-
start in Libertaire and exit in Monotoit.
13	Révolution 8a	traverse fltr	Max
start with the top hold of Boîte à Lettres, traverse to the right, up to the start of Libertaire, continue under the roof at and exit in the overhang.
13b	Révolution Libertaire 8b	traverse	Max
start in Révolution and exit in Libertaire.
13c	Totale Révolution Libertaire 8b+	traverse / loop	Christian Roumégoux
start completely left, traverse to the right by Révolution (without the top holds), continue in Libertaire and exit just above the starting point.
13t	Révolution par la Boîte à Lettres 7c+	traverse	Max
start in Révolution and exit in Boîte à Lettres.
14	La Tour d'Auvergne 5-	arete	-
dans le secteur Rebelle.
15	Dos Rebelle 5 (5+)	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
on the backside of the boulder of Rebelle.
15b	Dos Rebelle direct 6b	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart as for Dos Rebelle but stay on the left side.
16	L'Avide Dante 6a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of Dos Rebelle.
17	À Six c'est Assez 7a (6c+)	pillar / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
pillar on the boulder of Rebelle (standing start is 6b+).
18	La Pas Rebelle 6b+	slab	-
slab without the crack to the left.
19	Rebelle 7b	slab	Pablo Honrado
in the middle of the slab.
20	Une Poignée Rebelle 6a	wall	-
to the right of Rebelle.
21	L'Échauf'Fourré 5	slab	Gilles Cottray
in the sector Rebelle.
22	Craquelures 5-	wall	-
in the sector Rebelle.
23	Compression Ministérielle 7a+	pillar / belly / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
in the sector Rebelle.
24	L'Opposant 5	wall	-
in the sector Kronstadt.
25	Dalle Opposée 3-	slab	-
in the sector Rebelle.
26	La Pression 4-	wall	-
in the sector Kronstadt; exit to the left of the wall.
27	Dame Réglette 6a	slightly overhanging / crimps	-
in the sector Kronstadt; dynamic version is 6a+.
27b	Dame Réglette assis 6a+	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of Dame Réglette.
28	Déver'Soir 6a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
in the sector Kronstadt. Sitstart and exit to the left.
28b	Dévers'Grand Soir 7a+	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart with a mono right hand and exit to the left.
29	L'Échauffée 2	wall	-
in the sector Kronstadt.
30	Parcelle Érotique 6b+	belly / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
petit ventre en départ assis.
31	L'Âme Ailée 6c	wall	Gilles Cottray
31b	Par delà la Mêlée 7a	traverse frtl / wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart, traverse to the left and exit in L'Âme Ailée.
32	Les Grattons de Kronstadt 4-	wall / crimps	-
in the sector Kronstadt.
33	L'Automne-Homme 6b	wall / crimps	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
to the right of Les Grattons de Kronstadt. NB : avoid the sitstart of this boulder (fragile holds).
34	Le Crunch Stat' 7a+	arete / slightly overhanging	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
arête surplombante à droite des Grattons de Kronstadt. NB : attention à certaines prises, qui peuvent être fragiles.
34b	Autonomie 7b (7b+)	arete / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of Kronstadt. Start to the left of the arete as for L'Automne-Homme and exit in Le Crunch Stat'.
34c	Autonomie assis 7b+ (7c)	arete / expo / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of Kronstadt. Sitstart 1m50 to the left of Autonomie, and exit in this one.
34d	Femme, Femme, Femme 7a+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / expo	Thierry Guéguen
on the boulder of Kronstadt, to the right of Le Crunch Stat'.
35	La Plateforme d'Archinov 6a+	wall / crimps	-
in the sector Kronstadt.
36	Archinoff 4+	wall	-
in the sector Kronstadt.
37	L'Ante Raide 5+	wall / arete	Gilles Cottray
on the right side of the arete.
38	Le Succès Sœur de Pierre 7a (7a+)	overhang / sitstart	Frédéric Buc
sitstart and exit directly in the overhang.
38b	La Sans Sœur 6b+	overhang / sitstart	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
sitstart in the overhang and exit to the left.
39	Little Cobra 7a+	overhang / underclings / mantle	Thierry Guéguen
the boulder is on the top of a hill in the North-East of the sector, and exposed to the West (engraved table under the roof); start in the middle of the roof with underclings and exit to the left (slightly expo)
39b	King Cobra 7b+	overhang / underclings / mantle	Thierry Guéguen
the boulder is on the top of a hill in the North-East of the sector, and exposed to the West (engraved table under the roof). Start in the middle of the roof with underclings and exit to the right (slightly expo)
39c	Little Crotale 7a+	overhang / underclings / mantle	Franck Meurou / Julien Lefebvre
in the North-East of the sector, on the boulder of Le Cobra. Sitstart completely left of the overhang and exit in Little Cobra.
39d	Little King Combi 7a+	overhang / underclings / mantle	Franck Meurou / Julien Lefebvre
in the North-East of the sector, on the boulder of Le Cobra. Low start in the center of the overhang with the underclings of King Cobra, pass on the left by Little Cobra and exit in King Cobra.
39e	Crotale 7b (7a+)	overhang / underclings / mantle	Franck Meurou / Julien Lefebvre
in the North-East of the sector, on the boulder of Le Cobra. Sitstart completely left of the overhang, climb towards Little Cobra but exit in King Cobra.
39f	King Crotale 7c	overhang / underclings / mantle	Franck Meurou / Julien Lefebvre
in the North-East of the sector, on the boulder of Le Cobra. Sitstart completely left of the overhang, climb towards the beginning of King Cobra (without using the holds of Little Cobra) and exit in that one.
40	Cobra 6a	slightly overhanging / mantle	-
on the left of the roof; the boulder is on the top of a hill in the North-East of the sector, and exposed to the West (engraved table under the roof)
41	Le Situationniste 5-	wall / sitstart	-
on the boulder to the left of Cobra.
42	Bruits d'Auto-Gestion 6b	belly / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart of a small belly.
42b	L'Internationale 7 6c+	sitstart / traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
sitstart as for Bruits d'Auto-Gestion and traverse to the right.
43	L'Échauf'Art 5-	wall	Gilles Cottray
44	La Bande à Raide Urgence 5	wall	Gilles Cottray
45	L'Anarcho-Tic 7a	slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sitstart and climb the slightly overhanging boulder to the right.
46	Nom-Sens 5	wall	-
in the sector Kronstadt.
47	Gratouillis 3-	wall	-
in the sector Kronstadt.
48	Des Beignes et des Pavés 6a	wall	Gilles Cottray
direct version (without the holds on the left) is 6b.
49	Camarade Vitamine 6c	pillar	Gilles Cottray
50	Ça Descend dans la Rue 5	slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
51	Tranche de Bleu 5-	wall	Frédéric Buc / Gilles Cottray
6a+ by starting to the left.
52	Tu Voles Quand? 5	pillar	Gilles Cottray
pillar to the right of the wall of Tranche de Bleu.
53	Les Silences d'Alban 7b	traverse frtl / slopers	Max
in the sector Alban. Traverse on three faces and exit above a small boulder.
54	Premier Silence 5-	wall / sitstart	-
left problem on the boulder of Les Silences d'Alban.
55	Second Silence 6b	wall / sitstart	-
in the sector Alban.
56	Marche ou Crève... 7a	mantle / slab	Thierry Bienvenu
in the sector Alban. Start in a small pit, make a mantle and exit in the slab above.
57	Max et Laisse Faire Ailleurs 7a+ (7b)	roof	Max
in the sector Alban, to the opposite of Marche ou Crève. NB : low sitstart in the cave is a project.
58	Le Drapeau Noir 7b (7b+)	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on a bowl-shaped boulder. Low sitstart and exit to the left.
59	Tiens Bon la Hampe! 6c+ (7a)	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on a bowl-shaped boulder. Low sitstart as for Le Drapeau Noir and exit to the right; morpho. Standing start is 6b/6c.
60	La Libération 6c	belly	Frédéric Buc
belly in the right face of the boulder of Le Drapeau Noir.
		Outside the topo
Nocomodov 6c		overhang / mantle / sitstart	Marc Lehner
to the left of La Tour d'Auvergne, on the other side of the crest from the boulder of Rebelle. Start with two good underclings and exit by a mantle (the slab is allowed).

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