Bleau.info : Areas : Rocher de Bouligny : 7a and harder

Rocher de Bouligny : 7a and harder

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Other overviews 7a and harder: 54 straight-ups, 13 traverses
Topos: Rocher de Bouligny (Pascal Etienne), Schéma du bloc des Beaux Quartiers, Crête de Bouligny, Rocher de Bouligny (secteur Billard)

Tornade 6c (7a)	sitstart / traverse fltr / bidoigt	Pascal Etienne
topo nº35n; virtual nº17; on the East side of the boulder of La Citadelle. Sitstart at the arete as for Sapristi, make a short traverse to the right and exit in the slab with bidoigts under a small tree.
L'Apesanteur et la Grâce assis 6c (7a)	sitstart / wall / expo	Pascal Etienne
topo nº43b'; virtual nº20; behind Hissez Haut, at the end of the sector. Sitstart to the left and exit on the highest point, above a small boulder. See also: L'Apesanteur et la Grâce 6a
Talisman debout / L'Oublié de Bouligny debout 6c (7a)	prow / crimps	Manuel Marquès
topo nº7; on the North face of a big boulder, under the blue path, in the North slope, between Le Carrefour de la Vallière and the GR. Standing start to the right and exit by the pillar of Talisman. See also: Talisman / L'Oublié de Bouligny 7b, Incantation 7c
The Shield 6c (7a)	belly / expo	David Evrard
topo nº19; in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the character "S". Start slightly left at a crack and exit in the belly above stones on the ground. Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path on the other side of the crest; the boulder is 80m to the left.
Cool Raoul 6c (7a)	overhang / slopers / sitstart	David Evrard
topo nº29; 120m to the East of Left Side Story, in the Eastern part of the area. Sitstart and climb the overhang on slopers. Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 600m, take a small path up the slope; the boulder is on the other side of the crest.
Mur aux Vaches! 6c (7a)	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
topo nº2; small crimpsy wall on the boulder of "Les Stèles", at the bottom of the sector Billard.
Tumeur d'Amour assis 6c+ (7a)	overhang / sitstart	Pascal Etienne
topo nº40i; virtual nº18; on the South face of the boulder marked "G", on the right of the blue path. NB : a low 7a/7a+ sitstart without the pedestal is possible (using an undercling, a small hold and a heel hook left). See also: Tumeur d'Amour 6c
Maître Corbeau 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
topo nº13b; virtual nº7bis; right problem on the boulder of Le Presse Purée. Start with an undercling and exit to the left via slopers.
Fou de Toi 7a	roof / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
topo nº18a; small overhang 5m to the left of Vague à l'Âme and Le Plat Pays.
Coup Bas d'Enfer 7a	traverse frtl / underclings / overhang	Sébastien Frigault
topo nº29g; virtual nº12bis; on the boulder of Damoclès (boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9). Start to the right, traverse to the left with low underclings underneath the overhang and exit in Coup de Pompe (6c/6c+ with top holds). See also: Banana Spleen / Coup d'Enfer 6c
Damoclès 7a	traverse fltr / slopers / overhang	Pascal Etienne
topo nº29a; on the boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9. Start near the tree, traverse on slopers, go down in Coup de Spleen, take a horizontal crack above the overhang and exit in the right face. See also: Damoclès assis 7a+, Damoclès en aller-retour 7b+
La Danse du Ventre 7a	traverse fltr / slopers / mantle	Manuel Marquès
topo nº1; on a small boulder in the South side, just under the crest and the blue path n°9, after the main sector, 30m before La Route de la Plaine des Pins. Start at the left angle, traverse on slopers and exit completely right by a mantle.
Atchoum 7a	pillar	Manuel Marquès
topo nº2; on a boulder along the blue path n°9.9, at the second hairpin in the descent towards La Route d'Occident. Standing start on the left and climb the pillar directly.
L'Amulette 7a	wall / arete / expo	Fabien Marchand
topo nº9; under the blue path, in the North slope, between Le Carrefour de la Vallière and the GR. Start in the pit on the backside of the boulder of Talisman, climb the wall and exit by the round arete.
Entêté 7a	wall / slab / slopers	yann kispredilov
topo nº11c; on the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée. Start just right of Obstiné with an undercling left hand and the pinch of Les Recruteurs right hand, climb a gully and exit directly on slopers without using the boss on the right by convention. See also: Les Recruteurs 4+
Poussée de Fièvre 7a	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
topo nº15; on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Low sitart in the overhang, climb the ramp on the left as for Vice sans Fin, traverse to the right at the crimp and exit to the left of the pillar. Standing start is 6c. See also: Vice sans Fin 6c+
Passage sur le Billard 7a	slightly overhanging / bidoigt / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
topo nº5; on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart on the left with a mono left hand and a bidoigt right hand, climb the overhang to the left (withot using the right pockets) and exit above. Standing start is 6a.
Le Coup du Panda 7a	slightly overhanging / pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
topo nº10'; on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart in the corridor on the right with a crimp left hand and the arete right hand (morpho), climb the overhang as for Choc dans l'Étroit but stay on the pillar and exit via that one. See also: Choc dans l'Étroit 6c+
La Dent Dure 7a	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
topo nº21; crimpsy wall on the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard, 1m50 to the left of the crack.
T'as l'Ciment? 7a	slab / crimps / expo	Gilles Cottray
topo nº24; on the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard. Start in a narrow corridor with the holds on the right and climb the high cripsy slab by taking the round arete right hand. See also: La Coulée Douce 5+
Des Boules au Nez 7a	prow / slightly overhanging / traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Sitstart under the prow (with the right hand in the crack), traverse to the left up to the underclimng and exit birectly by the wall with a vertical sloper left hand. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière. See also: Boule-Versement 6c, Berthe aux Longs Papiers 7a+, Le Strike 7b
Des Astres 7a	belly / dyno / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
direct belly on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", in the South face, in the center of the sector. Sitstart to the right of the arete, make a dynamic move (morpho) and exit with slopers. Standing start is 6a+. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
6717A 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
topo nº30h; direct problem between the crack of Élastiques and the arete of Imitation Granit, on the wall of Hypotension (boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9). Sitstart in the pit to the left of the right arete and exit without using the holds of those two problems.
La Traversée d'Hypotension 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging	-
topo nº30d; on the boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9. Sitstart from the star and traverse as for Élastiques but exit in Hypotension. See also: Hypotension 6b, Hypotension assis 6c (6c+)
Supplément d'Enquête 7a (7a+)	pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
topo nº12; in the sector Billard, underneath Syracuse and the blue path n°9. Sitstart on the right, climb the pillar with the pocket left hand and exit above. Standing start is 6c. See also: En Quête de Supplément 7b (7b+)

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