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Rocher de Bouligny : 7a and harder

previous boulders > 26 to 50 of 66 boulders < next boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 53 straight-ups13 traverses
Topos: Rocher de Bouligny (Pascal Etienne), Schéma du bloc des Beaux Quartiers, Crête de Bouligny, Rocher de Bouligny (secteur Billard)

Le Presse Purée 7a+sitstart / prowThierry Guéguen
*****  [ 2 realvideos ]  [ 3 photos ] topo nº13a; virtual nº7; sitstart of an overhanging prow two boulders behind Les Beaux Quartiers.

Vague à l'Âme 7a+traverse fltr / slopers-
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº17f; virtual nº9bis; on the right part of the wave-shaped boulder above the Route Pompadour; exit to the right (6c otherwise).
See also:  [ 2 photos ]  Vague à l'Âme raccourci 6c

Échappée Belle 7a+arete / wall / sitstartTony Fouchereau
***** topo nº10k; on the boulder of Beaux Quartiers. Sistart to the left, take the arete as for Achille Talon, but traverse to the left afterwards.

Damoclès assis 7a+traverse fltr / slopers / overhangPascal Etienne
*****  [ 1 realvideo ]  [ 15 photos ] topo nº29b; on the boulder with a star, to the left of blue path n°9. Sitstart near the tree, traverse on slopers, go down in Coup de Spleen, take a horizontal crack above the overhang and exit in the right face.
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 14 photos ]  Damoclès 7a, Damoclès en aller-retour 7b+

Wayno 7a+slightly overhanging / slopers / sitstartManuel Marquès
topo nº3; on a boulder along the blue path n°9.9, at the second hairpin in the descent towards La Route d'Occident. Sitstart to the left, climb the loose ledge and exit directly above on slopers without using the right crack.
See also: Wayno en traversée 7c

Right Side Story 7a+arete / pinches / sitstartDamien Roguiez
*****  [ 1 video ] topo nº25b; right side of the characteristic arete located in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the crossing with La Route de la Fanfare.
Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path; the boulder is 100m to the right.

See also: Left Side Story 7a+ (7b), Left Side Story assis 7b+ (7c)

Syracuse 7a+overhang / pillar / sitstartGilles Cottray
topo nº16; left problem on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Low sitstart in the overhang, dyno to ledge on the right and exit directly, on the right of the pillar. Standing start is 5a.
See also: L'Aspi Râle 7b+

L'Arracheur Dedans 7a+roof / sitstartGilles Cottray
topo nº17; on the boulder of "La Dent Triste", in the sector Billard, underneath the blue path n°9. Sitstart completely left, traverse under the roof and exit above the step.
See also: L'Arracheur Dedans raccourci 6a, Mensonge d'une Nuit d'Été 7b

Berthe aux Longs Papiers 7a+loop / prow / slightly overhangingGilles Cottray
loop on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Start as for Des Boules au Nez but instead of finishing by the prow, traverse to the right on the ledge, downclimb by the crack and exit in Le Trou de Boule 1
Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière.

See also: Boule-Versement 6c, Des Boules au Nez 7a, Le Strike 7b

L'S Poire 7a+arete / slopers / sitstartGilles Cottray
***** left arete on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", on the South face, in the center of the sector. Sitstart to the right of the arete, pass on the left side and exit with the arete right hand.
Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.

See also: L'S Poire debout 6b+

Left Side Story 7a+ (7b)arete / slopersFabien Marchand
***** topo nº25; left side of the characteristic arete located in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the crossing with La Route de la Fanfare.
Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path; the boulder is 100m to the right.

See also: Right Side Story 7a+, Left Side Story assis 7b+ (7c)

La Pierre à Savon / Cayenne 7bwall / highEric Létot
topo nº19a; virtual nº10; high problem with a rock below above Vague à l'Âme and the character "F".
Update : lichened (may 2009).


C'est pas Sorcier 7boverhang / bidoigt / sitstartManuel Marquès
on the North face of the boulder with the character "G". Sitstart with bidoigts without using the small boulder on the ground, climb the overhang slightly to the right and exit with crimps above the starting point.
See also:  [ 1 photo ]  - 5

Talisman / L'Oublié de Bouligny 7bprow / crimps / sitstartManuel Marquès
***** topo nº7; on the North face of a big boulder, under the blue path, in the North slope, between Le Carrefour de la Vallière and the GR. Sitstart to the right, climb the overhang and exit by the pillar.
See also: Talisman debout / L'Oublié de Bouligny debout 6c (7a), Incantation 7c

Mensonge d'une Nuit d'Été 7broof / traverse fltr / sitstartGilles Cottray
topo nº18; on the boulder of "La Dent Triste", in the sector Billard, underneath the blue path n°9. Sitstart completely left, traverse under the roof as for L'Arracheur Dedans, continue after the step and exit above the jug.
NB : sitastart at the step is 6b and the exit only is 4c.

See also: L'Arracheur Dedans raccourci 6a, L'Arracheur Dedans 7a+

Le Procédé Douteux 7btraverse fltr / slightly overhanging / sitstartGilles Cottray
topo nº5-9; on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart to the left with a mono left hand and a bidoigt right hand as for Passage sur le Billard, traverse to the right and exit in Swimming Pool.
See also: Rétro Projection 6c

Le Strike 7bloop / slightly overhangingGilles Cottray
loop on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Start as for Berthe aux Longs Papiers but instead of the exit, downclimb at the underclimg, traverse to the left and exit in L'Abbé Quille.
Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière.

See also: Boule-Versement 6c, Des Boules au Nez 7a, Berthe aux Longs Papiers 7a+

Boulimie 7bpillar / slopers / sitstartGilles Cottray
round pillar on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", on the South face, in the center of the sector. Sitstart and exit on the left face. Standing start is 7a+.
Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.


Amok droite 7b (7b+)slightly overhanging / expo-
*****  [ 3 photos ] topo nº32a"; logical right exit of Amok, in a pit, near the underground part of the aquaduct, 50m to the South-West of the boulder of La Citadelle.
See also:  [ 3 photos ]  Amok 8a, Amok assis 8a+

En Quête de Supplément 7b (7b+)wall / pillar / sitstartGilles Cottray
topo nº11-12; in the sector Billard, underneath Syracuse and the blue path n°9. Start left as for L'Indice Cible, traverse to the right with the jug and exit on the pillar of Supplément d'Enquête.
See also: Supplément d'Enquête 7a (7a+)

Le Plat Pays 7b+ (7b)dyno / slopers / mantleDidier Gérardin
*****  [ 2 photos ] topo nº17d; virtual nº8; on the left of the wave-shaped boulder above La Route Pompadour and the character "F". Start under the overhang, at the beginning of the traverse of Vague à l'Âme, dyno to the ledge and exit by a mantle on slopers.

Damoclès en aller-retour 7b+traverse / overhangSébastien Frigault
***** topo nº29c; on the boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9. Sitstart near the tree, do Damoclès, return by Coup Bas d'Enfer with low underclings and exit in Coup de Spleen.
See also:  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 14 photos ]  Damoclès 7a,  [ 1 realvideo ]   [ 15 photos ]  Damoclès assis 7a+

Swiss Line 7b+wall / mantle / sitstartFabien Marchand
topo nº18; slightly overhanging blade in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the character "S". Sitstart, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle on slopers.
Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path on the other side of the crest; the boulder is 100m to the left.

See also: Swiss Line debout 6c+

Arkanoid 7b+wall / crimpsFabien Marchand / Julien Gras
***** topo nº24; in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the crossing with La Route de la Fanfare. Start in a pit, climb the wall on crimps and exit with an undercling.
Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path; the boulder is 30m to the right of a large bend.


L'Aspi Râle 7b+overhang / downclimbing / pillarGilles Cottray
topo nº16'; loop on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Standing start at the pillar, climb it up to the exit of Poussée de Fièvre, downclimb the ramp up to the bottom of the overhang and exit to the right of the pillar in Syracuse
See also: Syracuse 7a+

previous boulders > 26 to 50 of 66 boulders < next boulders

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