Bleau.info : Areas : Rocher de Bouligny : straight-ups 7a and harder

Rocher de Bouligny : straight-ups 7a and harder

previous boulders > 26 to 53 of 53 boulders

Other overviews 7a and harder: 66 straight-ups + traverses, 13 traverses
Topos: Rocher de Bouligny (Pascal Etienne), Schéma du bloc des Beaux Quartiers, Crête de Bouligny, Rocher de Bouligny (secteur Billard)

Berthe aux Longs Papiers 7a+	loop / prow / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
loop on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Start as for Des Boules au Nez but instead of finishing by the prow, traverse to the right on the ledge, downclimb by the crack and exit in Le Trou de Boule 1 Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière. See also: Boule-Versement 6c, Des Boules au Nez 7a, Le Strike 7b
L'S Poire 7a+	arete / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
left arete on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", on the South face, in the center of the sector. Sitstart to the right of the arete, pass on the left side and exit with the arete right hand. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path. See also: L'S Poire debout 6b+
Left Side Story 7a+ (7b)	arete / slopers	Fabien Marchand
topo nº25; left side of the characteristic arete located in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the crossing with La Route de la Fanfare. Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path; the boulder is 100m to the right. See also: Right Side Story 7a+, Left Side Story assis 7b+ (7c)
La Pierre à Savon / Cayenne 7b	wall / high	Eric Létot
topo nº19a; virtual nº10; high problem with a rock below above Vague à l'Âme and the character "F". Update : lichened (may 2009).
C'est pas Sorcier 7b	overhang / bidoigt / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
on the North face of the boulder with the character "G". Sitstart with bidoigts without using the small boulder on the ground, climb the overhang slightly to the right and exit with crimps above the starting point. See also: - 5
Talisman / L'Oublié de Bouligny 7b	prow / crimps / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
topo nº7; on the North face of a big boulder, under the blue path, in the North slope, between Le Carrefour de la Vallière and the GR. Sitstart to the right, climb the overhang and exit by the pillar. See also: Talisman debout / L'Oublié de Bouligny debout 6c (7a), Incantation 7c
Le Strike 7b	loop / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
loop on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Start as for Berthe aux Longs Papiers but instead of the exit, downclimb at the underclimg, traverse to the left and exit in L'Abbé Quille. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière. See also: Boule-Versement 6c, Des Boules au Nez 7a, Berthe aux Longs Papiers 7a+
Boulimie 7b	pillar / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
round pillar on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", on the South face, in the center of the sector. Sitstart and exit on the left face. Standing start is 7a+. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
Amok droite 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / expo	-
topo nº32a"; logical right exit of Amok, in a pit, near the underground part of the aquaduct, 50m to the South-West of the boulder of La Citadelle. See also: Amok 8a, Amok assis 8a+
En Quête de Supplément 7b (7b+)	wall / pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
topo nº11-12; in the sector Billard, underneath Syracuse and the blue path n°9. Start left as for L'Indice Cible, traverse to the right with the jug and exit on the pillar of Supplément d'Enquête. See also: Supplément d'Enquête 7a (7a+)
Le Plat Pays 7b+ (7b)	dyno / slopers / mantle	Didier Gérardin
topo nº17d; virtual nº8; on the left of the wave-shaped boulder above La Route Pompadour and the character "F". Start under the overhang, at the beginning of the traverse of Vague à l'Âme, dyno to the ledge and exit by a mantle on slopers.
Swiss Line 7b+	wall / mantle / sitstart	Fabien Marchand
topo nº18; slightly overhanging blade in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the character "S". Sitstart, climb the overhang and exit by a mantle on slopers. Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path on the other side of the crest; the boulder is 100m to the left. See also: Swiss Line debout 6c+
Arkanoid 7b+	wall / crimps	Fabien Marchand / Julien Gras
topo nº24; in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the crossing with La Route de la Fanfare. Start in a pit, climb the wall on crimps and exit with an undercling. Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path; the boulder is 30m to the right of a large bend.
L'Aspi Râle 7b+	overhang / downclimbing / pillar	Gilles Cottray
topo nº16'; loop on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Standing start at the pillar, climb it up to the exit of Poussée de Fièvre, downclimb the ramp up to the bottom of the overhang and exit to the right of the pillar in Syracuse See also: Syracuse 7a+
Left Side Story assis 7b+ (7c)	arete / slopers / sitstart	Fabien Marchand
topo nº25; sitstart of the left side of the characteristic arete located in the North face, in the Eastern part of the area, above the blue path, near the crossing with La Route de la Fanfare. Access : park the car at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes on the D58, follow La Route de Médicis for 800m, take La Route de la Fanfare in the slope, up to find the blue path; the boulder is 100m to the right. See also: Right Side Story 7a+, Left Side Story 7a+ (7b)
Incantation 7c	overhang	Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
topo nº8; on the North face of a big boulder, under the blue path, in the North slope, between Le Carrefour de la Vallière and the GR. Start to the left of Talisman with a big pocket left hand and a sloper right hand, catch the undercling of Talisman and exit in that one. See also: Talisman debout / L'Oublié de Bouligny debout 6c (7a), Talisman / L'Oublié de Bouligny 7b
Leprechaun 7c	slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	Jérémie Cogan
topo nº14; under the blue path, in the North slope, between Le Carrefour de la Vallière and the GR, 50m after Talisman. Sitstart, climb the overhang first directly and then diagonally to the left.
Les Chevaliers du Chaos 7c	roof / dyno / expo	Jérémie Cogan
topo nº15; due to a painted inscription, please do not climb on this boulder.
Irrésistible 7c (7c+)	arete / slopers	Teddy Deschamps / Tony Fouchereau
topo nº10g; to the left of Gecko, on the boulder of Les Beaux Quartiers. Start in La Faiblesse d'Achille and come back to the face only at the end of the arete (sitstart is 8a).
Irrésistible assis 7c (7c+)	sitstart / arete / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
topo nº10h; to the left of Gecko, on the boulder of Les Beaux Quartiers; sitstart, take the arete and exit in the face similar as Irrésistible.
Achille Talon 7c+ (8a)	sitstart / arete	Tony Fouchereau
topo nº10j; sitstart version of La Faiblesse d'Achille, to the left of Gecko. See also: La Faiblesse d'Achille 7c+ (7c)
Amok 8a	slightly overhanging / expo	Julien Nadiras
topo nº32a; in a pit, near the underground part of the aquaduct, 50m to the South-West of the boulder of La Citadelle. It is also possible to follow the Route du Chemin de Bouligny for 100m from the parking lot along the N7, just before the aquaduct in direction of Fontainebleau; the boulder is 20m to the right. See also: Amok droite 7b (7b+), Amok assis 8a+
Les Beaux Quartiers 8a (8a+)	sitstart / overhang	Didier Gérardin / Julien Nadiras
topo nº10b; virtual nº2; from the N7, follow the Route d'Occident for 150m; the boulder is somewhat higher on the right side. Sitstart, traverse to the right and exit with the arete (standing start is 6c). NB : first opened by Didier Gérardin with a 7c+ version, but a hold broke off and the grade is now 8a/8a+ (first repeated by Julien Nadiras in this form).
Le Clown 8a (8a+)	overhang	Sébastien Frigault
topo nº10c; virtual nº3; from the N7, follow the Route d'Occident for 150m; the boulder is somewhat higher on the right side. Start to the right of Les Beaux Quartiers, exit directly without the arete. See also: Le Clown assis 8a+
Le Clown assis 8a+	sitstart / overhang	Christian Roumégoux
topo nº10d; sitstart in Les Beaux Quartiers and exit in Le Clown. See also: Le Clown 8a (8a+)
Amok assis 8a+	slightly overhanging / expo / sitstart	Julien Nadiras
topo nº32a'; sitstart of Amok, in a pit, near the underground part of the aquaduct, 50m to the South-West of the boulder of La Citadelle. See also: Amok droite 7b (7b+), Amok 8a
Gecko 8a+ (8b)	slightly overhanging	Julien Nadiras
topo nº10e; direct problem to the left of Les Beaux Quartiers.
Gecko assis 8b+	sitstart / overhang / slopers	Olivier Lebreton
topo nº10f; sitstart of Gecko, to the left Les Beaux Quartiers.

previous boulders > 26 to 53 of 53 boulders