Bleau.info : Rocher de Bouligny : Topo

thanks to Pascal Etienne

from Fontainebleau, follow the D607 (ex N7) from Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque and turn back at the next crossing in order to park the car on the Eastern side of the road, 150m to the North of the aqueduct. The boulders of the two main sectors are located on both sides of La Route Pompadour (first path on the right of La Route d'Occident). Many other boulders have been opened recently near the crest, along the blue path. For some of them, it is convenient to park the car on the other side, at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes, on the D58.

1a	La Roche Percée 3-	-	-
PD+ virtual 1 | short problem on the boulder with the character "I".
1b	- 6a	arete / sitstart	-
TD virtual 1 | on the boulder with the character "I".
2a	La Déconfiture 4-	-	-
D virtual 1 | near the left arete of the boulder to the opposite of the character "I".
2b	Racine 4+	-	-
D virtual 2 | diagonal on the boulder to the opposite of the character "I".
2c	Harcèlement 6a	traverse fltr	-
TD virtual 2 | exit in n°2b of the topo.
2d	Délit de Fuite 5	slightly overhanging	-
D virtual 3 | on the left of the blue path, to the opposite of the character "I".
2e	- 4	arete	-
D virtual 4 | right arete on the boulder to the opposite of the character "I".
2f	Le Beau Grain 2+	-	-
PD+ virtual 2 | on the North face of the boulder to the opposite of the character "I".
3a	Abandon 5+	traverse fltr	-
TD virtual 3 | low traverse, exit at the arete (or more to the right).
3b	- 3	-	-
PD+ virtual 3 | left problem.
3c	- 3	-	-
PD+ virtual 3 bis | second problem from the left.
3d	- 4+	sitstart	-
D virtual 4 bis | sitstart just to the right of the left problem
3e	- 3-	arete	-
PD+ virtual 4 | arête large sur un bloc situé à gauche du sentier bleu, au tout début du secteur, au niveau de la lettrine "I".
3f	- 3-	arete	-
PD+ virtual 5 | arête par la face Nord, sur un bloc situé à gauche du sentier bleu, au tout début du secteur, au niveau de la lettrine "I".
3g	- 1	-	-
PD+ virtual 5 bis | in the North face.
4a	Le Prie-Dieu 6b (6c)	traverse fltr	-
ABO virtual 1 | traverse on two faces, starting at the tree.
4b	- 3+	-	-
PD+ virtual 6 bis | to the left of the tree.
4c	- 5+	sitstart	-
D virtual 5 bis | sitstart at the arete left of the tree.
4d	Le Poirier 3+	wall	-
PD+ virtual 6 | short wall to the right of the tree.
4e	Encore 3	wall	-
PD+ virtual 7 | short wall in the center of the boulder.
4f	Monsanto Carbide 3+	wall	-
PD+ virtual 8 | short wall at the right arete.
4g	- 4-	-	-
D virtual 5 | small North face.
5a	Gros Râleur 4+	slightly overhanging	-
D virtual 6 | left problem in the North face.
5b	- 4-	underclings	-
D virtual 6 bis | eliminant problem in between the two left problems.
5c	- 2	-	-
PD+ virtual 9 bis | right problem in the North face.
5d	- 3-	arete	-
PD+ virtual 9 | right arete.
5e	Trop de Bouleau 5+	slab	-
TD virtual 4 | slab in the West face, morpho.
6a	L'Arête de Zmutt 3-	arete / slopers	-
PD+ virtual 10 | two boulders to the West of Les Beaux Quartiers.
6b	- 2+	slab	-
PD+ virtual 10 bis | normal route for descent (slightly expo), to the right of L'Arête de Zmutt.
6c	Déséquilibré 6a	prow / high	-
TD virtual 5 | two boulders to the West of Les Beaux Quartiers.
6d	La Fausse Arête 4+	arete	-
D virtual 7 | eliminant problem just to the right of Déséquilibré.
6e	L'Honorable Li-Khen 2+	crack	-
PD+ virtual 11 | crack with a traversing start, two boulders to the West of Les Beaux Quartiers.
7a	Les Pommeaux gauche 5-	slab / wall	-
D virtual 8 | left problem on a boulder to the West of Les Beaux Quartiers.
7b	Les Pommeaux droite 6a	slab / wall	-
TD virtual 6 | to the right of Les Pommeaux gauche, on a boulder to the West of Les Beaux Quartiers.
7c	- 4-	arete	-
D virtual 8 bis | right arete on the boulder of Les Pommeaux.
8a	- 2	slab	-
PD+ virtual 12 | to the left of the tree.
8b	- 2+	slab	-
PD+ virtual 13 | to the right of the tree.
8c	- 3	slab	-
PD+ virtual 13 bis | sur un bloc situé au dessus du sentier bleu, dans la première partie du secteur. Mise à jour (février 2010) : le bloc est actuellement difficilement praticable à cause d'un arbre couché.
8d	Fiançailles 3-	slab	-
PD+ virtual 14 | voie de gauche sur la face Sud d'un bloc situé au dessus du sentier bleu, dans la première partie du secteur. Mise à jour (février 2010) : le bloc est actuellement difficilement praticable à cause d'un arbre couché.
8e	- 3-	slab	-
PD+ virtual 14 bis | the most right problem.
9a	Auvent Mauvais 5	arete / overhang	-
D virtual 9 | on the boulder to the right of Les Beaux Quartiers.
9b	La Fête des Cailles 5+	wall / crack	-
TD virtual 7 | flake in a vertical wall, just above Les Beaux Quartiers.
10a	Les Taudis 6c	slightly overhanging / slopers	Didier Gérardin
ABO virtual 4 | standing start of Les Beaux Quartiers. From the N7, follow the Route d'Occident for 150m; the boulder is somewhat higher on the right side.
10b	Les Beaux Quartiers 8a (8a+)	sitstart / overhang	Didier Gérardin / Julien Nadiras
ABO virtual 2 | from the N7, follow the Route d'Occident for 150m; the boulder is somewhat higher on the right side. Sitstart, traverse to the right and exit with the arete (standing start is 6c). NB : first opened by Didier Gérardin with a 7c+ version, but a hold broke off and the grade is now 8a/8a+ (first repeated by Julien Nadiras in this form).
10c	Le Clown 8a (8a+)	overhang	Sébastien Frigault
ABO virtual 3 | from the N7, follow the Route d'Occident for 150m; the boulder is somewhat higher on the right side. Start to the right of Les Beaux Quartiers, exit directly without the arete.
10d	Le Clown assis 8a+	sitstart / overhang	Christian Roumégoux
sitstart in Les Beaux Quartiers and exit in Le Clown.
10e	Gecko 8a+ (8b)	slightly overhanging	Julien Nadiras
direct problem to the left of Les Beaux Quartiers.
10f	Gecko assis 8b+	sitstart / overhang / slopers	Olivier Lebreton
sitstart of Gecko, to the left Les Beaux Quartiers.
10g	Irrésistible 7c (7c+)	arete / slopers	Teddy Deschamps / Tony Fouchereau
to the left of Gecko, on the boulder of Les Beaux Quartiers. Start in La Faiblesse d'Achille and come back to the face only at the end of the arete (sitstart is 8a).
10h	Irrésistible assis 7c (7c+)	sitstart / arete / slopers	Tony Fouchereau
to the left of Gecko, on the boulder of Les Beaux Quartiers; sitstart, take the arete and exit in the face similar as Irrésistible.
10i	La Faiblesse d'Achille 7c+ (7c)	arete / traverse fltr / slopers	Christian Roumégoux
start on the left arete, traverse to the right and exit with the sloper of Les Beaux Quartiers. The sitstart is called Achille Talon (8a).
10j	Achille Talon 7c+ (8a)	sitstart / arete	Tony Fouchereau
sitstart version of La Faiblesse d'Achille, to the left of Gecko.
10k	Échappée Belle 7a+	arete / wall / sitstart	Tony Fouchereau
on the boulder of Beaux Quartiers. Sistart to the left, take the arete as for Achille Talon, but traverse to the left afterwards.
11a	Détour 5-	wall	-
D virtual 10 | right problem (starting from the right) on the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée.
11b	Motivés 5+	wall	-
TD virtual 8 | direct variant of Détour (with a morpho start) on the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée.
11c	Entêté 7a	wall / slab / slopers	yann kispredilov
on the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée. Start just right of Obstiné with an undercling left hand and the pinch of Les Recruteurs right hand, climb a gully and exit directly on slopers without using the boss on the right by convention.
11c	Les Recruteurs 4+	wall / slopers	-
D virtual 11 | friction problem just right of Obstiné, on the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée.
11d	Obstiné 6c+ (6c)	wall / slopers	Pascal Etienne
ABO virtual 6 | in the centre of the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée.
11e	Obstiné assis 6c+	wall / slopers / sitstart	Pascal Etienne
ABO virtual 6 bis | sitstart of Obstiné, in the centre of the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée.
11f	Passion et Vertu 6c	wall	-
ABO virtual 5 | to the left of Obstiné, on the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée.
11g	- 5-	arete	-
D virtual 12 | left arete on the boulder in between Les Beaux Quartiers and Le Presse-Purée.
12a	- 3-	slab	-
PD+ virtual 15 | friction slab on the South face of the boulder behind the one with Obstiné.
13a	Le Presse Purée 7a+	sitstart / prow	Thierry Guéguen
ABO virtual 7 | sitstart of an overhanging prow two boulders behind Les Beaux Quartiers.
13b	Maître Corbeau 6c+ (7a)	slightly overhanging / slopers	-
ABO virtual 7 bis | right problem on the boulder of Le Presse Purée. Start with an undercling and exit to the left via slopers.
14a	Tout en Surplomb 5	overhang	-
D virtual 13 | left problem.
14b	Tout en Surplomb assis 6b	overhang / sitstart	-
TD virtual 8 ter | voie de gauche, en départ assis très "poutre" sur un bloc situé au bord du sentier bleu après le croisement avec la Route Pompadour.
14c	- 4	wall / mantle	-
D virtual 14 | to the right of the cave.
15a	La Colo' 4	arete	-
D virtual 15 | round angle above La Route Pompadour, before the crossing with the blue path.
15b	- 2	-	-
PD+ virtual 16 | just right of La Colo', above La Route Pompadour, before the crossing with the blue path.
16a	Le Limaçon Rose 6a+	dyno	-
TD virtual 8 bis | on the East face of a boulder above La Route Pompadour.
17a	- 3	crack	-
PD+ virtual 17 | diagonal crack on the South face of the boulder of Vague à l'Âme.
17b	Face Sud 5+	wall	-
TD virtual 9 | on the South face of the boulder of Vague à l'Âme. Exit diagonally to the left.
17c	Lait Chaud Fourré 5+	overhang	-
TD virtual 10 | at the exit of Vague à l'Âme, on the waved-shaped boulder above La Route Pompadour and the character "F".
17d	Le Plat Pays 7b+ (7b)	dyno / slopers / mantle	Didier Gérardin
ABO virtual 8 | on the left of the wave-shaped boulder above La Route Pompadour and the character "F". Start under the overhang, at the beginning of the traverse of Vague à l'Âme, dyno to the ledge and exit by a mantle on slopers.
17e	Vague à l'Âme raccourci 6c	traverse fltr / slopers	-
ABO virtual 9 | on the right part of the wave-shaped boulder above the Route Pompadour. Traverse to the right as for Vague à l'Âme but exit before the right angle.
17f	Vague à l'Âme 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers	-
ABO virtual 9 bis | on the right part of the wave-shaped boulder above the Route Pompadour; exit to the right (6c otherwise).
18a	Fou de Toi 7a	roof / sitstart	Thierry Guéguen
small overhang 5m to the left of Vague à l'Âme and Le Plat Pays.
19a	La Pierre à Savon / Cayenne 7b	wall / high	Eric Létot
ABO virtual 10 | high problem with a rock below above Vague à l'Âme and the character "F". Update : lichened (may 2009).
20a	- 2	slab	-
PD+ virtual 18 | left ledge on the boulder above the character "F".
20b	Mousse au Chocolat 3	slab	-
PD+ virtual 19 | on the right side of the ledge, on the boulder with the character "P". There is also a 5b eliminate.
21a	F Minuscule 3-	arete	-
PD+ virtual 23 | sur le bloc avec la lettrine "F". Un départ assis en 4+ et un jeu dans la conque à gauche en 4+ sont également possibles.
22a	- 4	wall	-
D virtual 18 | on the West face, above the character "E".
22b	La Jumelle gauche 5	arete	-
D virtual 17 | left arete by the left, on the South face of the boulder above the character "E".
22c	La Jumelle 6a	arete / expo	-
TD virtual 11 | left arete by the right, on the South face of the boulder above the character "E".
22d	La Tour Infernale 5-	arete	-
D virtual 16 | right arete by the left, in the South face of the boulder above the character "E".
22e	- 4-	arete	-
D virtual 19 | on the East face of the boulder above the character "E".
22f	- 3	slab	-
PD+ virtual 20 | on the East face of the boulder above the character "E".
22g	La Voie du Pin 2	crack	-
PD+ virtual 21 | on the East face of the boulder above the character "E".
22h	La Voie du Pin droite 2	slab	-
PD+ virtual 22 | slab to the right on the East face of the boulder above the character "E".
23a	- 6a	slopers / sitstart	-
TD virtual 12 | diagonal on slopers on a boulder in the slope above the character "E".
24a	- 4	pillar	-
D virtual 20 | small pillar.
25a	- 6b	traverse fltr / arete	-
TD virtual 13 | on the boulder with the character "E". Exit at the slightly overhanging arete.
25b	- 4	crack	-
D virtual 21 | cracky line facing the path, on the boulder with the character "E".
25c	Le Gros Cerveau 4-	wall / arete	-
D virtual 22 | left problem on the right arete of the boulder with the letter "E".
25d	Le Gros Cerveau droite 4+	wall / arete	-
D virtual 23 | right problem on the right arete of the boulder with the letter "E".
25e	- 2	slab	-
PD+ virtual 24 | slab at the East face of the accompanying boulder of the one with the character "E".
27a	- 2+	slab	-
PD+ virtual 25 | to the left of the path, after the boulder with the character "E".
28a	- 2	slab	-
PD+ virtual 26 | left problem at the boulder with the character "D".
28b	- 4+	slab / wall	-
D virtual 24 | to the left of the tree at the boulder with the character "D".. Eliminant to the right is 5+.
28c	Misticati 6c	wall	-
ABO virtual 11 | to the right of the tree at the boulder with the character "D".
28d	- 5-	wall / crack	-
D virtual 25 | right problem of the boulder with the character "D".
28e	- 6a	crack / sitstart	-
TD virtual 13 bis | sitdown start of right problem of the boulder with the character "D".
29a	Damoclès 7a	traverse fltr / slopers / overhang	Pascal Etienne
on the boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9. Start near the tree, traverse on slopers, go down in Coup de Spleen, take a horizontal crack above the overhang and exit in the right face.
29b	Damoclès assis 7a+	traverse fltr / slopers / overhang	Pascal Etienne
on the boulder with a star, to the left of blue path n°9. Sitstart near the tree, traverse on slopers, go down in Coup de Spleen, take a horizontal crack above the overhang and exit in the right face.
29c	Damoclès en aller-retour 7b+	traverse / overhang	Sébastien Frigault
on the boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9. Sitstart near the tree, do Damoclès, return by Coup Bas d'Enfer with low underclings and exit in Coup de Spleen.
29d	Coup de Spleen 5+	wall / dyno	-
TD virtual 14 | on the boulder of Damoclès (boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9). Dynamic start on the left face of the boulder (morpho).
29e	Coup de Pompe 6a	overhang / mantle	-
TD virtual 15 | on the boulder of Damoclès (boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9). Standing start at a small stone.
29f	Banana Spleen / Coup d'Enfer 6c	traverse frtl / overhang	Grégoire Clouzeau
ABO virtual 12 | on the boulder of Damoclès (boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9). Start in the right face, pass the angle, continue to traverse to the left with the holds over the overhang and exit in Coup de Pompe (7a by traversing underneath the overhang).
29g	Coup Bas d'Enfer 7a	traverse frtl / underclings / overhang	Sébastien Frigault
ABO virtual 12 bis | on the boulder of Damoclès (boulder with a star, at the fork of the blue paths n°9 and 9.9). Start to the right, traverse to the left with low underclings underneath the overhang and exit in Coup de Pompe (6c/6c+ with top holds).
30a	Le Réta des Obliques 5-	mantle	-
D virtual 26 | left problem on the boulder of Hypotension. 4- with the tree.
30b	Graine de Star 4	arete / crack	-
D virtual 27 | arete at the star, on the boulder of Hypotension.
30c	Scalpel 6c (6c+)	wall / dyno	Grégoire Clouzeau
ABO virtual 13 | on the wall of Hypotension (boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9). Start in the cave to the left of Hypotension; morpho.
30d	Hypotension 6b	wall / crimps	-
TD virtual 16 | standing start of Hypotension assis, in the middle of the wall with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9.
30d	La Traversée d'Hypotension 7a (7a+)	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging	-
on the boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9. Sitstart from the star and traverse as for Élastiques but exit in Hypotension.
30e	Hypotension assis 6c (6c+)	sitstart / wall	Didier Gérardin
ABO virtual 14 | in the middle of the boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9. Sitstart to the right of Scalpel and exit directly (standing start is 6b).
30f	Arme à Niaque 5+	slightly overhanging	-
TD virtual 17 | between Hypotension et Élastiques, on the wall with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9.
30g	Élastiques 6c+	traverse fltr / wall	Pascal Etienne
ABO virtual 15 | on the boulder with Hypotension (boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9). Sitstart and traverse from the star and exit in the right problem of the wall. Caution: the flake in the wall is very fragile and this problem may be dangerous!
30h	6717A 7a (7a+)	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Steven Demets / Ivan Moreels
direct problem between the crack of Élastiques and the arete of Imitation Granit, on the wall of Hypotension (boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9). Sitstart in the pit to the left of the right arete and exit without using the holds of those two problems.
30h'	Imitation Granit 5	arete	-
D virtual 28 | right angle on the boulder of Hypotension (bloc avec une étoile le long du sentier bleu).
31a	À l'Ombre d'Algie 6c	wall / slopers / mantle	Jean-Pierre Castell
ABO virtual 15 bis | 10m underneath blue path n°9, between the boulder of Hypotension and the one with La Citadelle.
32a	Amok 8a	slightly overhanging / expo	Julien Nadiras
in a pit, near the underground part of the aquaduct, 50m to the South-West of the boulder of La Citadelle. It is also possible to follow the Route du Chemin de Bouligny for 100m from the parking lot along the N7, just before the aquaduct in direction of Fontainebleau; the boulder is 20m to the right.
32a"	Amok droite 7b (7b+)	slightly overhanging / expo	-
logical right exit of Amok, in a pit, near the underground part of the aquaduct, 50m to the South-West of the boulder of La Citadelle.
32a'	Amok assis 8a+	slightly overhanging / expo / sitstart	Julien Nadiras
sitstart of Amok, in a pit, near the underground part of the aquaduct, 50m to the South-West of the boulder of La Citadelle.
33a	- 6b	overhang / sitstart	-
sitstart of the small overhang under the slab of La Grattonade du 17 octobre, to the left of the boulder of La Citadelle.
34a	- 4	traverse fltr / slab	-
D virtual 29 | traverse of the slab of the West face of the boulder to the left of La Citadelle.
34b	La Peau d'Éléphant 4	slab	-
D virtual 30 | left problem on the triangular slab to the left of the boulder of La Citadelle.
34c	La Grattonade du 17 Octobre 5-	slab / crimps	-
D virtual 31 | right problem on the triangular slab to the left of La Citadelle.
34d	- 2+	arete	-
PD+ virtual 27 | on the boulder just left of La Citadelle.
34e	Le Couloir 3+	slab	-
PD+ virtual 29 | eliminating problem at the slab on the South face of the boulder just left of La Citadelle.
34f	- 2	slab	-
PD+ virtual 28 | right problem on the South face of the boulder just left of La Citadelle.
35a	- 5	wall	-
D virtual 32 | just left of La Citadelle, on the North face of the boulder.
35b	La Citadelle 5	arete	-
D virtual 33 | left arete on a characteristic boulder to the right of the blue path n°9.
35c	La Goulotte 5-	wall	-
D virtual 34 | just to the right of La Citadelle.
35d	L'Inversée 6a	wall / underclings / sitstart	-
TD virtual 18 | diagonal to the right on the boulder of La Citadelle.
35e	Arythmie 4+	wall	-
D virtual 35 | to the left of the right arete of the boulder of La Citadelle.
35f	Le Pince-Nez 5	arete	-
D virtual 36 | right arete on the boulder of La Citadelle.
35g	Tendresse 6b	traverse frtl / sitstart	-
TD virtual 19 | on the West face of the boulder of La Citadelle. Sitstart at the right arete and traverse to the left.
35h	- 5	sitstart / expo	-
D virtual 37 | on the South face of the boulder of La Citadelle, to the right of the arete, with a sitstart at the bottom of this one.
35i	- 5	sitstart	-
D virtual 37 bis | problem to the right of the tree, on the boulder of La Citadelle, with a sitstart at the arete.
35j	- 2	crack	-
PD+ virtual 30 | crack in the South face of the boulder of La Citadelle.
35k	Starting-Bloc 3-	arete	-
PD+ virtual 31 | on the boulder of La Citadelle. Arete to the right, start from the stone.
35l	Starting-Bloc assis 6b (6c)	arete / sitstart	-
TD virtual 20 | arete to the right on the boulder of La Citadelle.
35m	Sapristi 5+ (6a)	arete / sitstart	-
TD virtual 21 | arete from the right, on the backside of the boulder of La Citadelle.
35n	Tornade 6c (7a)	sitstart / traverse fltr / bidoigt	Pascal Etienne
ABO virtual 17 | on the East side of the boulder of La Citadelle. Sitstart at the arete as for Sapristi, make a short traverse to the right and exit in the slab with bidoigts under a small tree.
36a	Mer Formée 3	slab	-
PD+ virtual 32 | left problem on the boulder underneath La Citadelle.
36b	La Balafre 4	wall / crack	-
D virtual 38 | central problem on the boulder underneath La Citadelle. Start in a pit to the right of à droite de Mer Formée and exit directly.
36c	Petits Meurtres entre Amis 6a+	wall	-
TD virtual 22 | in the center of the wall on the boulder underneath La Citadelle, to the right of La Balafre, above a pit; morpho.
36d	Derniers Efforts 3	arete	-
PD+ virtual 33 | right arete on the boulder of La Balafre, underneath La Citadelle.
37a	- 6b	wall / underclings / sitstart	-
along the blue path, in between the boulder of La Citadelle and the one marked "P". Sitstart and exit with underclings.
38a	- 2	slab	-
PD+ virtual 34 | left problem on the boulder with the character "P".
38b	- 2+	slab	-
PD+ virtual 35 | central problem on the boulder with the character "P".
38c	Fox-Trot 3-	slab	-
PD+ virtual 36 | right problem on the boulder with the character "P".
38d	Fox-Trot assis 5+	sitstart	-
TD virtual 23 | right problem on the boulder with the character "P".
39a	Le Bloc Branlant 4	traverse fltr	-
D virtual 39 | traverse from the left arete to the right arete.
39b	Araignée de Mer 5+	arete / sitstart	-
TD virtual 24 | at the right arete, on a boulder along the path, in between the boulder marked "P" and "G".
40a	Tohu-Bohu 6c	overhang	-
ABO virtual 16 | n the East face of the boulder with the letter "G".
40b	- 5	wall / slab	-
TD virtual 28 | on the North face of the boulder with the character "G".
40c	- 5+	mantle	-
TD virtual 26 | on the West face of the boulder with the character "G", diagonally to the left.
40d	- 6a	wall / mantle	-
TD virtual 25 | to the left of the character "G".
40e	Paire de Claques 5	wall / mantle	-
D virtual 40 | at the character "G", two possible exits.
40f	- 6b	traverse frtl	-
TD virtual 27 | traverse of the face with the character "G".
40g	- 6a	wall / dyno	-
TD virtual 30 | jump start on the South face of the boulder with the character "G", near the left arete.
40h	Tumeur d'Amour 6c	overhang	-
TD virtual 29 | on the South face of the boulder with the letter "G".
40i	Tumeur d'Amour assis 6c+ (7a)	overhang / sitstart	Pascal Etienne
ABO virtual 18 | on the South face of the boulder marked "G", on the right of the blue path. NB : a low 7a/7a+ sitstart without the pedestal is possible (using an undercling, a small hold and a heel hook left).
41a	Les Lilas 5	slab	-
D virtual 41 | to the left of the blue path, at the end of the sector, to the opposite of the boulder marked "G".
42a	Terre d'Av' 5	slab / arete	-
D virtual 42 | slab with the left arete, on a boulder underneath the blue path, at the end of the sector.
42b	Archipiade Adanétaie 6b	slab	-
ABO virtual 19 | central problem, just left of Hissez haut, on a boulder underneath the blue path, at the end of the sector.
42c	Hissez Haut 6a+	wall	-
TD virtual 31 | right problem on a boulder underneath the blue path, at the end of the sector.
43a	La Busherie 5+	wall	-
TD virtual 32 | left problem on the boulder behind Hissez Haut.
43a'	La Busherie assis 6a	wall / sitstart	-
TD virtual 32 bis | on the boulder behind Hissez Haut, on the same boulder as L'Apesanteur et la Grâce.
43b	L'Apesanteur et la Grâce 6a	wall / expo	-
TD virtual 33 | right problem on the boulder behind Hissez Haut.
43b'	L'Apesanteur et la Grâce assis 6c (7a)	sitstart / wall / expo	Pascal Etienne
ABO virtual 20 | behind Hissez Haut, at the end of the sector. Sitstart to the left and exit on the highest point, above a small boulder.
		Outside the topo
La Fête des Cailles assis 6a		wall / crack / sitstart	Holger May
sitstart of the vertical wall with a crack on the left side of the boulder just above Les Beaux Quartiers. NB : first known realization by Holger May.
C'est pas Sorcier 7b		overhang / bidoigt / sitstart	Manuel Marquès
on the North face of the boulder with the character "G". Sitstart with bidoigts without using the small boulder on the ground, climb the overhang slightly to the right and exit with crimps above the starting point.
- 5+ (6a)		wall / crack / sitstart	-
on the South face of the boulder of Gros Raleur, to the left of a prow with a dead tree. Sitstart, traverse diagonally to the left with the crack and exit directly above.
Sous-Tension 5+		overhang / sitstart	-
in the small overhang just under Hypotension (boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9). Sitstart and exit to the left.
Mocka Brutus 6c		overhang / sitstart	Igor De Poorter / Kobe Bellinkx
in the small overhang just under Hypotension (boulder with a star, just after the fork with blue path n°9.9). Sitstart and exit directly, without the left side of the boulder.
Little Amok 5+		arete / pockets / slopers	Robert-Jan Palstra / Quirijn Wijtten
on the right angle of the boulder to the right of Amok. Standing start and climb the left side of the arete on pockets and slopers.
L'Abbé Quille 6c+		slightly overhanging / wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Sitstart under the prow (with the right hand in the crack), traverse to the left up to the undercling, go up to the right and exit with good holds. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière.
Boule-Versement 6c		prow / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Sitstart completely left (white point), traverse to the right on the ledge up to the "nose" and exit slightly right on the prow. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière.
Des Boules au Nez 7a		prow / slightly overhanging / traverse fltr	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Sitstart under the prow (with the right hand in the crack), traverse to the left up to the underclimng and exit birectly by the wall with a vertical sloper left hand. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière.
Berthe aux Longs Papiers 7a+		loop / prow / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
loop on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Start as for Des Boules au Nez but instead of finishing by the prow, traverse to the right on the ledge, downclimb by the crack and exit in Le Trou de Boule 1 Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière.
Le Strike 7b		loop / slightly overhanging	Gilles Cottray
loop on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Start as for Berthe aux Longs Papiers but instead of the exit, downclimb at the underclimg, traverse to the left and exit in L'Abbé Quille. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière.
Le Trou de Boule 1 6b+		slightly overhanging / sitstart	-
on the boulder of "Le Bowling", 30m to the East of L'Apesanteur et la Grâce. Sitstart under the prow (with the right hand in the crack), go up (using a large crimp) and exit as for Spare à Bras. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path; the boulder is up the slope, 60m before the crossing with sur la gauche une soixantaine de mètres La Route de la Vallière.
Spare à Bras 6c		slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
Trip Tic 5		wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
on the right face of the boulder of "Le Triptyque", in the South face, in the center of the sector. Start with the sloper right hand and exit with crimps. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
Trip Tique 6b		wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
on the right face of the boulder of "Le Triptyque", in the South face, in the center of the sector. Dynamic start without the sloper right hand and exit with crimps. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
Boulimie 7b		pillar / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
round pillar on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", on the South face, in the center of the sector. Sitstart and exit on the left face. Standing start is 7a+. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
Des Astres 7a		belly / dyno / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
direct belly on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", in the South face, in the center of the sector. Sitstart to the right of the arete, make a dynamic move (morpho) and exit with slopers. Standing start is 6a+. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
L'S Poire debout 6b+		arete / slopers	Gilles Cottray
left arete on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", on the South side, in the center of the sector. Standing start on the left side and exit with the round arete right hand. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
L'S Poire 7a+		arete / slopers / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
left arete on the boulder of "Le Triptyque", on the South face, in the center of the sector. Sitstart to the right of the arete, pass on the left side and exit with the arete right hand. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
Lame Damnée 6c		wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
on the left face of the boulder of "Le Triptyque", on the South side, in the center of the sector. Climb the crimpsy wall without the right arete. Access : from La Route de Pompadour, follow the esplanade path up to La Route de la Vallière. The boulder is 180m after, 40m above the path.
Billards 5-		dyno	Scott Noy
below and to the right of Les Pommeaux de droite, at the beginning of the sector. Start with the left hand on pinch in the crack and the right one with an undercling, jump out right and exit above.
Billards assis 6a		dyno / sitstart	Scott Noy
below and to the right of Les Pommeaux de droite, at the beginning of the sector. Sitstart with left hand in a crack, climb up diagonally right and exit in Billards.

© 1994-2013 bleau.info