Bleau.info : Rocher de Bouligny : Topo

from Fontainebleau, follow the D607 (ex N7) from Le Carrefour de l'Obélisque and turn back at the next crossing in order to park the car on the Eastern side of the road, 150m to the North of the aqueduct. The boulders of the two main sectors are located on both sides of La Route Pompadour (first path on the right of La Route d'Occident). Many other boulders have been opened recently near the crest, along the blue path. For some of them, it is convenient to park the car on the other side, at Le Carrefour du Rocher aux Nymphes, on the D58.

1	Le Champ d'Honneur 5	arete / crimps	Gilles Cottray
on the left side of the boulder of "Les Stèles", at the bottom of the sector Billard. Start with the arete left hand and exit at the top of the boulder.
2	Mur aux Vaches! 6c (7a)	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
small crimpsy wall on the boulder of "Les Stèles", at the bottom of the sector Billard.
3	L'Homme, en Outre, Tombe 6a+	pillar	Gilles Cottray
pillar right hand on the boulder of "Les Stèles", at the bottom of the sector Billard.
4	Bille en Tête 6a	pillar	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Climb the pillar with vertical holds.
5	Passage sur le Billard 7a	slightly overhanging / bidoigt / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart on the left with a mono left hand and a bidoigt right hand, climb the overhang to the left (withot using the right pockets) and exit above. Standing start is 6a.
5-9	Le Procédé Douteux 7b	traverse fltr / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart to the left with a mono left hand and a bidoigt right hand as for Passage sur le Billard, traverse to the right and exit in Swimming Pool.
6	La Bande à Nonce 6a+	slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart to the right of Passage sur le Billard and exit above on crimps. Standing start is 5c.
7	La Coulée Douce 5+	slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart with a foot in the lowest pocket and exit above. Standing start is 5a.
8	Jus de Carambole 6b	slightly overhanging / pockets / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart in the pit on the right of the overhang, take the jug on the left and exit above. Standing start is 5a.
8-5	Rétro Projection 6c	traverse frtl / slightly overhanging / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
right problem on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart in the pit as for Jus de Carambole, traverse to the left and eit in Passage sur le Billard.
9	Swimming Pool 6c	slightly overhanging / crimps / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart in the pit on the right of the overhang, take the jug on the left as for Jus de Carambole, come back to the right and exit above.
9'	Swimming Poule 6b	slightly overhanging / pockets / crimps	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Standing start in the pit on the right, dyno from the jug to a crimp right hand and exit above.
10	Choc dans l'Étroit 6c+	slightly overhanging / arete / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart in the corridor on the right with a crimp left hand and the arete right hand (morpho), climb the overhang as for Le Coup du Panda and exit directly.
10'	Le Coup du Panda 7a	slightly overhanging / pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Le Billard", in the North slope, at the East of the sector. Sitstart in the corridor on the right with a crimp left hand and the arete right hand (morpho), climb the overhang as for Choc dans l'Étroit but stay on the pillar and exit via that one.
11	L'Indice Cible 6a+	wall	Gilles Cottray
in the sector Billard, underneath Syracuse and the blue path n°9. Direct wall on the boulder of "L'1-10".
11-12	En Quête de Supplément 7b (7b+)	wall / pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
in the sector Billard, underneath Syracuse and the blue path n°9. Start left as for L'Indice Cible, traverse to the right with the jug and exit on the pillar of Supplément d'Enquête.
12	Supplément d'Enquête 7a (7a+)	pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
in the sector Billard, underneath Syracuse and the blue path n°9. Sitstart on the right, climb the pillar with the pocket left hand and exit above. Standing start is 6c.
13	L'Archi m'Aide 4	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Start behind the tree and climb the crimpsy wall.
14	Vice sans Fin 6c+	overhang / wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Low sitart in the overhang, climb the ramp on the left as for Poussée de Fièvre and exit in the wall above with a crimp right hand. Standing start is 6b.
15	Poussée de Fièvre 7a	overhang / sitstart	Gilles Cottray / Frédéric Buc
on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Low sitart in the overhang, climb the ramp on the left as for Vice sans Fin, traverse to the right at the crimp and exit to the left of the pillar. Standing start is 6c.
16	Syracuse 7a+	overhang / pillar / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Low sitstart in the overhang, dyno to ledge on the right and exit directly, on the right of the pillar. Standing start is 5a.
16'	L'Aspi Râle 7b+	overhang / downclimbing / pillar	Gilles Cottray
loop on the boulder of "L'Archimède", in the North face, 10m underneath the blue path n°9, 50m to the West of Swiss Line. Standing start at the pillar, climb it up to the exit of Poussée de Fièvre, downclimb the ramp up to the bottom of the overhang and exit to the right of the pillar in Syracuse
17	L'Arracheur Dedans 7a+	roof / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "La Dent Triste", in the sector Billard, underneath the blue path n°9. Sitstart completely left, traverse under the roof and exit above the step.
17	L'Arracheur Dedans raccourci 6a	wall / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
sur le bloc de "La Dent Triste", dans le haut du secteur Billard, en dessous du sentier bleu n°9. Partir assis au niveau de la marche et sortir droit au dessus. 4b en départ debout.
18	Mensonge d'une Nuit d'Été 7b	roof / traverse fltr / sitstart	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "La Dent Triste", in the sector Billard, underneath the blue path n°9. Sitstart completely left, traverse under the roof as for L'Arracheur Dedans, continue after the step and exit above the jug. NB : sitastart at the step is 6b and the exit only is 4c.
19	La Dent Creuse 6a	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
behind the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard. Start in a small pit at the corridor and exit in a crimpsy wall.
20	Masse Molaire 6a (6b)	pillar	Gilles Cottray
left problem on the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard. Climb the small pillar left hand.
21	La Dent Dure 7a	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
crimpsy wall on the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard, 1m50 to the left of the crack.
22	Plombage de Pierre 4+	arete	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard. Evident arete right hand at the crack separating the two boulders.
23	Dent 6 Mètres 6c	slab / crimps / high	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard. Climb the high slab by taking the arete left hand at the crack separating the two boulders.
24	T'as l'Ciment? 7a	slab / crimps / expo	Gilles Cottray
on the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard. Start in a narrow corridor with the holds on the right and climb the high cripsy slab by taking the round arete right hand.
25	Le Chic Haut 6a (6a+)	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
arete left hand on the right face of the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard.
26	L'Émail à Partir 6b	wall / crimps	Gilles Cottray
on the right face of the boulder of "Les Deux Dents", in the sector Billard. Start in the pit and finish with the arete left hand.

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